February 2007
Finally got around to buying a set of anti-roll bar bushes for the Fiesta, a job which is now long overdue (hollow knocking from the floorpan at the front over bumps where either suspension moves any distance independently of the other)
Haynes suggest the front subframe has to be dropped to get to the mounting bolts, with all the extra work this entails, but I wondered if anyone has succeeded in doing this job without it? The bushes are genuine Ford items and have a split so they can be popped over the anti-roll bar without disconnecting either end. It's just a question of whether the clamps and bolts are accessible with the subframe in situ. I would have thought that as long as I can get one bolt out of each clamp and the other slackened a few turns, this should be enough to get the clamp open enough to be able to slide the bush out of the clamp, along the anti-roll bar and pull it off.
Any suggestions / advice / experience welcome.
Cheers
DP
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I have a mazda 6 TS turbo Diesel , great car its an 04 plate and done 118,000 miles clutch is now slipping
pretty normal too ...........
£738.00 to supply and fit a clutch i have done all the ringing round and thats the best i can come up with
can anyone help with any ideas how i can try to reduce this price i live in southend in essex its a three part clutch
plate bearing and cover parts cost £223.74 plus vat so about 460 labour .
any ideas or is this normal in 2007 am i an old dinosaur who thought a clutch fitted was 300 quid????????????? Read more
Hi all,
i have been reading up on mazda6 diesel clutches, cause our 2006 with 115000 miles on the clock, has caused myself and now worringly my wife...to mention the clutch wearing....
Quick forum search turned up nothing specific on this, so here goes:
My S60 D5, new in October 2002, covered 30,000 miles in its first two years. A change of job then meant fewer business miles, so it's just crept past 50,000 after another two-and-a-bit years. It's had an annual full service (next one due in May) since my mileage dropped below 12,000 pa, but I'm wondering at what point I should brace myself for a cambelt change - and what I should budget at Midlands labour rates. FWIW, the car has never used oil between services.
Thx,
WdB Read more
Perfectly sensible advice that I have used myself in the past, too, but at least the Volvo five cylinder engines really do have well engineered, generously specced, cam drives so 100k is not pie in the sky. As I wrote, with this engine I have never known one let go at all, let alone early, and I now know of several that are well over 100k miles and still running on the original belt.
What are the PSA 1.6 HDi engines like. Comments on real world application appreciated. Power, refinement, torque etc.
ta
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF > Read more
FWIW Which rate the Touran above the C4 Picasso.
In the octavia options, you can get a "Multifunction Steering wheel (inc small leather pack and Maxi-Dot)"
What functions does the wheel provide, and what is a "Maxi-Dot"
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF > Read more
Does your browsing of the inner recesses of the Skoda brochure, RF, mean that the ´Ran is about to be swapped for something Czech (and hopefully more reliable)?
Buying my A3 from the main dealer tommorow, its an 04 plate with 45k on the clock. How can you accurately tell if it's had even a minor respray?? I have been stung before and a proffesional told me later. Am I 100% safe in buying it from the main dealer?(bodywork-wise)
Many thanks Read more
So how was/is it? Did you hand over the spondulix?
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Just solved half the problem - when I sync the PDA and click on calendar in the Sync window, it gives options as to what timescale of dates get synched, I have changed it from 2 weeks to 6 months so that has now updated all my past appointments again.
Just don't know why it disappeared in the first place?
Thought I'd knowledge share on this to give the benefit of my struggles...
Had to change a door mirror, VW wanted £280 for parts & labour which seemed a bit steep as it represents 4% of the value of the car! So I bought a cheap non OEM part on Ebay for £30 and got the local dent van man to spray it for me for £30.
To get at it you have to remove the inner door card but really quite easy to do: prise off the plastic trim behind the grab handle on the door (where the electric window controlls are), remove electric window controlls and behind this are 3 screws -drove me mad trying to find these! THere are also 3 screws right at the bottom of the door and on inside the door-jam at the top. Once removed, lift the door skin off gently. There is one more plastic piece to remove (very obvious) before you can remove the massive bolt holding the wing mirror on and it's a simple swap from there. Remember to plug in the electric contacts for the heated elements directly into the mirror. Also note that when you replace the door you have to get the pop-up lock bit through the hole in the door - do not try to test it works with the door open as after 20 mins of frustration I remembered that the door doesn't lock unless it's closed! Ridiculous.
I'm just writting this in the hope that someone else reads it and decides to say 'no' to the ridiculous premiums that dealerships try to charge the public for basic work. It's a bit of a fiddle but really not that hard, takes about 40 mins and saved me £200. Read more
Excellent instuctions. Saved me £200 as well. For anyone with a small tool kit like myself - you will need a 150mm x T40 Start Screw Driver to get the main wing mirror bolt off.
Hi folks,
Since I seem to spend my life replacing section after section of the exhaust on my own or my GFs car, is there anything that I can put on it to prevent it rusting through?
I thought about some kind of grease, then I thought about some hammerite paint or something.... any suggestions, or do people not bother with this kind of thing....?
G Read more
SS middle baffle started to rattle after 5 years.
Rear baffle started to rattle after 4 years and blew where tail pipe canilevered out.
Lifetime Guarantee, but paid for installations and return postages of failed units.
Signed off inspections every 12 months ..........Am I winning?????
BrianH
Have things really improved that much, to the extent that you can still get 200,000 miles out of an engine and it still be clean inside, on 20,000 oil change intervals?
Its really evidence (IMHO) thats needed and time some consumer research was done.
It would be easy for a selection of cars to have their cam covers taken off, cam lobe wear and sludging contrasted with conventional service interval cars and the results published. The service books would provide the evidence and IMHO a trend would start to show if a number of cars were examined.
Surprised really that the consumer publications have not done this.
Opinions? Read more
"The last thing they would say, as they were dragged protesting from the car as it went into the recycling plant, would be "Save me, I'm still young!"
Quite right, They would be glad to go into it if they had been on 20,000 oil changes :)
Browse
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Yes cheers,
although I'll be sweating a bit when I bend the clamp back...if it snaps then argghhh
Hopefully only a small bend reqd.
If this is a yearly thing is it a job for polyurethane bushes (if available?) - they're supposed to last much longer than normal rubber?
S.