February 2007
Hi everyone
Having problems with the air con on my 2001 Ford Galaxy, 115ps TDI. I have never been a fan of the system used on this vehicle. It is complicated and fiddly to use when you're driving. To those who are familiar with the VW/Audi set up, it is similar to that, ie. an LCD display, one showing a symbol for the rear of the car, the other for the front. Air ccon is activated by pressing 'Auto' and normal ventilation is activated by pressing the 'econ' button.
The a/c has not worked for about 18 months now, so I had the gas topped up around that time to see if it would help but with no success. This evening I'd thought I would tackle the problem by checking the obvious things first. Having dismantled half the engine bay to access the compressor, I have managed to establish that there is no power to it. When you switch to a/c there is no'clunk' and a slight dip in power as you would usually get. A friend has the same car and he has got the same problem. A garage he went to removed the clutch from the end of the compressor and told him this was the problem so this was the first thing I decided to check.
As there was no power to the comp. I rigged uo a lead from a battery and low and behold, the clutch on the comp. moves in and out as it should so I am going to discount this?.
I have checked all the fuses which are ok and am now at a bit of a loss as to where to look now.
Just one other thing, which may be a red herring, 4 years ago the booster heater decided to pack up so I have disconnected it as this is only designed to cut in below 4'c - this wouldn't affect the a/c would it??
Greatful for any useful comments.
Thanks
Basil Read more
My SEAT Ibiza diesel was serviced and MOTed on Friday. On the way home form the garage I turned on the radio and it seems that the battery had been disconnected since the screen displays the prompt for the radio code. However, on consulting the manual to get the code and the correct way to enter it I can't make it work. I get the display to read the correct sequence of digits but then nothing happens upon pressing the button to confimr the code.
The garage that did the service can't look at it 'til Thursday and the MOT station have been less than helpful. Does anyone have any ideas please ?
Thanks
--
Soupytwist ! Read more
Would you Adam and believe it, same thing happened to me today - car MOT'd battery disconnected and needed to re-input the radio code. This time I remembered that the manual instructions were incorrect but couldn't remember the correct way to do it. So a quick google bought this thread up and here I am again, having been outside and done it. Is this the only thread on here with three posts, all from the same person?
Hi all,
I have a problem with my '98 1.8 zetec focus, I went to start it the other day and instead of cranking, it just clicks rapidly for however long I hold the ignition on the crank position.
I assumed this was a battery issue (I hadn't used the car for over a week, in which time we had very cold weather) so purchased a portable jump starter and tried starting with this attached but the same thing still happens.
I'm currently very much stationary!
can anyone help? Read more
Just a thought; how long did you run it for the last time you used it?
I got home from work today to see Mrs From Next Door pulling up in my wife's car! The reason was she couldn't start her Mazda 6 but needed to collect Nipper Next Door from nursery, so borrowed it.
The background?
Over the weekend, her husband changed a headlight bulb and to gain access had to remove a panel from the wheel arch. To do this he ran the engine for all of 5 seconds from a cold start whilst he twirled over to full steering lock. I know this, as we were nattering at the time, so explained to Mrs Next Door that my money was on the ECU's catalyst protection regime, for want of a better description, preventing fuelling. "Try a long crank with foot on the floor. You won't flood the engine as the computer is stopping fuelling but you will help vent it out". She didn't, and called the AA, who gave a gert great crank with foot on the floor! The engine of course started fine once the overfuelling from the weekend had been cleared.
I have just noticed that a tyre (Dunlop SP30) bought from a local tyre fitter?s last week has ?INSIDE? and ?OUTSIDE? markings and sod?s law, as you might guess, has ensured that it?s been fitted ?inside out?. If that makes sense.
There don?t seem to any rotation direction markings. The tread appears symmetrical and the only visible difference is that the ?Inside? marked sidewall is smooth whereas the ?Outside? sidewall is ribbed.
I would rather not go to the trouble of having it removed and refitted as I don?t think this does the bead seal much good. Also I noticed these markings when refitting the wheel trim which loses a couple of plastic tangs every time I remove it, however carefully. I have only just araldited the last two back on. Another reason is that I prefer to fit wheels myself as that way the nuts get the correct torque loading and the car gets jacked correctly.
Is there likely to be any other difference in the sidewalls other than that described?
I go to some lengths to avoid driving on or off kerbs. I bought this tyre because all the other tyres on the car are SP10s which are still legal although well over K40 miles. SP10s seem to have been superseded by the SP30s.
Read more
>>>I prefer to fit wheels myself as that way the nuts get the correct torque loading and the car gets jacked correctly<<<
And heres me thinking I was the only one that took the wheels off the car to have tyres fitted , especialy because of the huge jack they place under your car that can remove the underseal. In extreme cases they can crush your chassis if the jacks are not released corectly and all the weight goes on one jack!!......yes it happened to me on a big heavy diesel Galant. And ever since I have removed the wheels for tyre replacement unless they have a 4 poster.
They can also damage the finish on your alloys while removing the nuts.
Hi guys.
I am having trouble with erratic idling on a W reg Ford KA. The idling will go up and down in a consistant rythum for about 9 beats then settle down.
After having a mobile diagnostics it was deemed that the idle control valve was the most likely culprit, even though error readings were not found.
I replaced the valve and a slight difference was achieved. On start up the idling was non erratic but steady and slowly depreciating in revs as the car warmed up. after a few miles the car resumed its erratic idling at all junctions. sometimes the revs will go higher, around 3,000 aprox, and will go back to normal after a slight knock on the accelerator.
The question is, has any body had this experience or any idea what could be causing it. I am leaving a trip to fords as a last resort. grateful for any help. thanks. Read more
Thanks Guys, I am overwhelmed by your support!
I will add that it has just had an Ivor Searl replacement engine put in, but the problem was occuring before this. I would have thought the Valves would be adjusted to a correct tolerance. What is throttle body wear and what would a resolution/ cost entail?
What's the best way from southern England to southern Sweden, by road, preferably avoiding long ferry trips? Read more
Thanks guys.
I'm trying to avoid a long ferry (or indeed any ferry), as I've got a trailer, dogs, and guns to take with me.
I had a look at the eurotunnel site, and interestingly they charge extra for dogs, but not for passengers. Maybe I could dress them up and claim they're kids. I see there's a bridge in Denmark, and you have to go quite a way north to use it, although I imagine there are short ferries further south.
Hi all, new to the Back Room.
I know this subject has been going on for a bit, but I would like to know what fuel economy you are getting if you own a Kia Rio 1.5 CRDI or Hyundai Getz 1.5CRTD (16v 4 cylinder Hyundai engine not the 12v 3 cylinder VM Motori unit).
Not only that but if you could tell me how many miles you've had it for so we can get an idea of how bedded in your car is.
The reason for the request is that I have just acquired one of these as a driving school car and I have been getting 40-45MPG in the 3500 miles since it was made. Now I would expect to get 10% above the 'combined' figure for my own driving and around 10-15% less than the 'combined' for teaching (I had a 1.6 Petrol Citroen C2 as my last teaching car and was getting 38MPG during tuition). This is based on the last 5 or 6 cars I have owned.
So by rights I should be getting 55ish MPG from the Kia as are some of my kin in their Kia's, Clio's etc.
Any thoughts. Can the fuel economy be reduced by 25% just because it isn't bedded in? How long has your Kia taken to "bed in".
Anyone actually gone back to a Kia dealer and they found a problem with the fuel system or ECU or sensors etc.
Cheers
Stevie G Read more
My wife runns a 07 Rio CRDI that she has owned from new . One of the main reasons for bying it was that it is supposed to do 60ish mpg .Miles per gallon on the Rio is pretty poor . After 28000 from new it still only returns 47 MPG . Driven like a saint on a run it will only manage 49mpg . Literature Said 60 mpg ,I know we take that witha pinch of salt but I would expect 55mpg. I run a volvo D5 and get 47 mpg , 30mpg towning a caravan . If I nurse the volvo I get about 50 on a run . So what is it about the rio ? dealer said its all in spec and it will get better when its got some miles on it . Suprise suprise its now out of warranty and still not returning the miles . So someone at Kia are telling porkies . I think we may be contacting Kia direct for an answer .
hello,
i have the above van, it has 108k on the clock and service history.
i have just had it serviced and was told that the mayo/ ceamy paste in the oil cap and the small deposits on the dip stick is a sure sign of head gasket problems.
is this so and what other ways is there of telling the head gasket is on its way.
the van runs and starts fine with no other problems(i hope/think)
any advice would be appreciated...
cheers Read more
hi, i spent a few hour yesterday on the van trying to get to the bottom of this water /oil / mayo problem and.......................
i think its the oil cooler leaking,
i have bypassed the cooler and run the van for 30-40 miles and the dropplets of water have disappeared, the water level is steady and there is no signs of mayo.
so next question -
will i do any hard runing with out the cooler?
is there a good online shop that stock them and much are oil coolers?
steve
Hi, I've just gone to take my dad's 12 month old Avensis for a spin, before he comes back from holiday, and there wasn't enough power to open the door. I used the key and a pathetic noise comes from the front, an alarm running at one volt by the sounds of it. I've followed the instructions in the handbook and it won't turn off, only when the key was in the ignitions, when I take it out the alarm tries to sound again. So I disconnected the battery, dug out my Airflow battery conditioner and hooked it up, but only the orange 'On' light shows, I seem to remember the conditioning light should also be on. I went to the Airflow website but it seems to be sales only, has anyone used one lately? If so, does this sound right? How long do you think it will it take to charge from flatter than a flat thing? If it helps, he's been away for 30 days, and it's been in the garage for all of that time, I parked it up after dropping my parents off.. Read more
Assuming your meter is accurate, 12.3 volts is still too low. As a rule-of-thumb, 12.2 v is 50% charged, 12.5 v is 75% charged. However any battery below 12.4v should be charged to prevent damage.
Hi
It seems that a knocking from my 206 may actually be coming from a shorting coil pack - Its a black plug model but can anyone confirm for me how many wired are used in this plug as i dont have a wiring diagram. The plug has 4 wires, 3 coloured and 1 black, however the black wire exits the plug for about 3 inches and thats it, it is not connected to the wiring loom at all. I have hunted around near the other cables in the bundle to see if it had snapped but there are only 2 coloured wires going into the loom.
Can anyone confirm if this black wire is indeed not needed?
thanks Read more
Difficult to be certain; probably nothing much. Only some had them.
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The next time the a/c goes down and needs pro help will be the last. I'm one of the people who buys a car form new and runs it til it dies. The motor's 6 years old now so I will not be throwing money at it. The a/c has never been a good system - if it keeps going down the it is something I can live without! As long as I can get another 4 years use out of the car with just road worthy maintenance that that'll do for me. Any big bills on the horizon then it's bye bye Galaxy.