November 2006
Damn damn damn. Electrical problems are often strange of course but this one seems very weird to me.
Came home last night, parked car and turned lights off. Went down to see someone off and noticed that front sidelights or dipped main beam had come on by themselves (no rear lights). Got in the car and tried to turn them off, but they wouldn't go off. There was still enough battery to start the thing so I started it and ran it for a while to recharge while pulling fuses one by one until the lights went off. Two fuses, one 10amp and one 15. Now any attempt to turn the lights on elicits the warning squeal the car gives when you try to get out with the lights on, even with all the doors closed and engine running.
The car, a 1.6 16v Escort, has previously refused to start owing to the fuel pump relay unplugging itself over bumps and potholes. I suspect a relay in this case too, perhaps one that has welded itself closed or something. But why did the lights go on by themselves? I am sure I would have noticed if they failed to go off when I turned them off.
Are there any electrical gurus or Ford experts in the BR who can cast light on this? Read more
Hi,
Why is it that when you wheel spin away in a FWD car (at least mine do this) that you often get a thumping noise and feel through the car-i.e. you get clean wheel spin for a short while then you get this thumping/jumping, feels like the car is going to self destruct, seems to happen more wheel spinning away if there is steering lock dialled in.
I always assumed it was to do with the differential-is it normal behaviour or should the wheels always spin cleanly for as long as you like, with everything as smooth as when you're driving along (obviously you'll be wearing your tyres out all the while etc)? Read more
It's wheel tramp. The cause is tired shock absorbers. Rear-engined cars can do it too, my VW 411 used to bounce its back wheels up and down until it got new dampers. 'Axle tramp' is a version of the same thing with a beam driven rear axle, started or exacerbated by torque effect under strong acceleration.
Unless the original design of the car is rubbish, if the example doing this tramping is over say 30,000 miles old, then new struts are the answer, I'd bet on it. Might cost though. Might be better to drive a bit more greenly instead so it doesn't happen :-o). MoT standards for dampers are simply lamentable. Just shows they don't expect people to go fast round bumpy corners!
Has anyone who has driven a Ford Focus II experienced additional dazzle/glare from others vehicles head lights/fog lights and street lighting as a result of the heating element inside the Quickclear windscreen ?
Does this happen with other Ford models that are fitted with the Quickclear windscreen ?
I have experienced no such problem whilst driving Focus's without the Quickclear windscreen.
Oh and yes I have had my eyes tested and they are fine for day and night driving. Read more
Could it be that people who have or have not experienced a problem with the Quickclear at night may have slight defective eye vision which may account for why they do or do not notice a difference when driving a car that does not have a Quickclear windscreen fitted ?
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I would think the opposite would apply. There are thousands of vehicles with Quickclear windscreens and those with "normal vision" do not have a problem, or a problem that concerns them sufficiently to take action.
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How many folks have had their eyes checked by a qualified optician recently ?
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I for one have had my normal (for my age) eyesight tested every year for the last n years and this includes a peripheral test. I have always had very expensive Zeiss lenses fitted.
I drive a Mondeo and a Focus with Quickclear and a Yaris without it.
I had no problem when the first Quickclear vehicle arrived and have had no problems since.
Is the solution to replace the Quickclear windscreen with an ordinary windscreen for those who have encountered a visibility issue ?
Certainly an option. If it is bothering you that much then it is the way to go.
You will only continue to worry about it and you can eliminate your worry.
I'm not sure what the real merits of the Quickclear windscreen really are in day to day driving !
Speedy demisting before the A/C ( if you have one) kicks in is one obvious one.
What possibly needs some publicity is "try out a car with Quickclear at night" before you buy it ,in case, like yourself, it proves to be a problem.
I too would like an expert to explain why some people have this problem with Quickclear.
I am currently running 2 cars with "plastic" headlamps. They both take H4 bulbs and I noticed that when I removed a blown bulb it was marked "E1". I have a couple of almost new Philips H4 bulbs from a previous car I scrapped marked E11. Can I use these or should I bin them and get a set of new E1 marked bulbs?
Read more
The "E" numbers are codes for the country of origin as given above. Remember if you have "plastic" (polycarbonate) headlamp lenses, the bulbs should be low UV output, denoted on the box by UV struck out. In practice, most bulbs by high volume European manufacturers meet this requirement, but there have been problems with yellowing of polycarbonate lenses if the UV emission of the bulbs is too high.
Much depends on the value of your car. One of my vehicles is worth nothing and has polycarbonate lenses. It gets Chinese bulbs which work without any problems. I might not risk it with a more expensive vehicle.
659.
Following a top end rebuild on my Astra 1.8 sxi as a result of the water pump failing causing valve damage etc, it now has difficulty in starting. Once started it runs fine. The mechanic states there is a loss of compression on starting which should rectify itself once the valves have run in and built up a layer of carbon etc. Is he correct or am I on a loser. Read more
You have already said that a compression test has revealed that 2 cylinders are down on compression. Did he tell you what the compression was? I'd imagine he is just hoping that the bodge of a repair he has done on your cylinder head will eventually sort it self out once the engine has been used for a while. Take it back and demand that he rechecks his work.
use to change spark plugs years ago but notice they look different now a days any special technique to change plugs on modern cars 4 yr old 3 cyl corsa Read more
Very easy on these .Slide off the plastic "ecotec" cover and remove the 2 torx screws .Carefully lift up the ignition coil cassette to reveal the spark plugs. Best to use the original GM/Bosch type.
Anyone else encountered this problem with their VW Passat? At approximately 1500-2000 revs, there's what can only be described as a buzzing coming from somewhere buried in the dashboard on the passenger side. It's a diesel-engined car so there's obviously some inherent vibration overall, but this is in addtion and is starting to get on my nerves! It's akin to bees buzzing (if that makes sense!) and, I'm assuming, is some bit of trim or other that's not quite tight and vibrates at these lower revs.
Before I head off to the dealer and get told to a) just turn the radio up b) there's no noise c) we've not had this before or d) it's there alright, but we'll have to take the dash out to rectify it, thought I'd pick folks' brains on here and see if anyone else had experienced the same sort of symptoms. Read more
Funny you should mention that as I was thinking it might be coming from inside the engine on the other side of the bulkhead. Will have a look and see if that's the case.
We own a Kangoo which is just out of warranty as a "doggy waggon" and intend to keep it as long as possible. I was thinking of changing the gearbox oil at 40k intervals but am unsure about what to use. Renault only specify a particular Elf brew or would a good synthetic brew with to GL5 standard of the same be a better bet? I have used Ovoline synthetic in my Land-Rover box with very good results.
Read more
We will shortly be having a second child and would like to buy a bigger second hand car and have decided on an estate.
We have shortlisted either the Audi A4 Avant or a BMW 5 Series Touring but are at bit of a quandry over which to choose. High mileage, slightly older BMW or lower mileage, slightly younger Audi? Or better still would an older and higher mileage Audi represent the best opportunity - saving money but still offering a great car and best valiue for money?
We've spoken to both BMW and Audi dealers and as you'd expect they all recommend their marque over the competition.
I'm sure both cars would be excellent but my head says Audi but my heart says BMW.
Our requirements are fairly straightforward
- good/big boot space
- good fuel economy
- annual mileage circa. 8,000-12,000 miles
- manual or automatic ( what's best?)
Budget is anything up to £17,000 but it might be that you advise us to spend £10-£15k on an older Audi with higher mileage to get the best all round deal which is what we're all after.
Which car and which model?
Also what is the best time in the month to buy a used car to leverage opportunity for negotiation? Is it still the end of the month when sales people are trying to hit their bonus?
Could you please advise. Read more
I agree that the A4 is too small - check out the dimensions of the boot and rear legroom with child seats in place and you will see what I mean. I had a similar requirement as you a few years ago and ended up with a Merc C-class estate, since up-sized to an E-calss estate as the family expanded.
But of the choice between an A4 or a 5, it would have to be the 5 - with a good warranty.
Hi,
my 97 Corsa is crunching going into reverse and stiff going into other gears. Have read that this is common and is usually easily fixed by adjusting the clutch cable nut, but I can't find it (not sure what I'm looking for to be honest). Can anyone please point out where it is (but please not too technical as my car knowledge is very limited!).
Also, how do I do it please? Is it a straight forward loosen the nut, pull the cable tight, then tighten the nut?
Many thanks! Read more
had someone
push the clutch down whilst I looked for movement under the
bonnet,
Welcome to the backroom, CB - with that sort of approach, we will need you more that you will need us !
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Go on, get out of the car...
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Left the car sitting for a week and attacked it yesterday.
One of the rearlight/brakelight bulbs had gone, whitening the glass and knocking a piece out of it. After replacing that, juggling the fuses around and putting them back, everything now seems to work normally. Lot of panic about nothing...
But how on earth can the dipped headlights have come on by themselves and refused to switch off, as the result of a rear bulb blowing?
I have always maintained that cars were complex enough to have something resembling individual personality, but minor electrical fits - small epilepsy or petit mal - seem a bit too good or bad to be true...
Thank you all for your suggestions. Mystery remains.