November 2006
Firstly a cautionary tale and also any useful extra info will be gratefully received.
We were burgled a few days ago with a Mini Cooper S being stolen from the drive. They also took keys for a nearly new Audi A6 but not the car (? why). Mini has been recovered with minimal damage but effectively we have one missing and one spare set of keys for each car.
the Audi was taken away by the insurance company as it was at risk of being stolen by the culprit returning for second dibs. The process of "just getting secure" now involved changing all the locks and some ? ECU reporogramming. Expensive and not covered by the insurance in most policies >£100 or so... Enquiries with the insurance approved garage meet with "bit of a problem, could be up to a month", enquiries with Audi main dealers "not sure how to do this might cost £3000". This seems to be a real trap. How hard to try to hide keys in the house, secure the house etc?. There seems to be a risk here that is impossible to insure against -
we havent even heard whats to happen with the Mini but dread to think if its the same again. How can it be that even Audi dont know whats involved in resolving this situation with all the coathanger / letterbox car thefts around.
Any bright ideas? Read more
Hello everyone,
I'm in a need for a scan/photo of the very first page (foreword) of any Toyota's Owner Manual.
Need a proof for a friend of mine who simply cannot believe that a Lexus is made by Toyota.
Showed him a GS300 book, but to convince him 100% I think I'd need the above mentioned scan/photo.
Rumour is they were so lazy they've only exchanged the word "Toyota" with "Lexus" (the rest of the foreword being all the same).
Here's a GS300 foreword:
img490.imageshack.us/img490/5836/instr4us2.jpg
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Free enterprise is the basis of western economy. Read more
Details, details...
www.fotosik.pl/showFullSize.php?id=c1543b922a5df6a6
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Free enterprise is the basis of western economy.
For anyone who hasn't seen it, and who can get Film 4 or Film 4 +1 on their goggler, and who can stay up a little bit late, Two Lane Blacktop is showing on those channels at 12.55 tonight and I suppose 1.55 too.
Quite a decent car movie, not perfect of course - no car movie ever has been that I've seen - but not bad at all. Made by someone who understood what it was all about, American style of course.
Highly recommended. Make your excuses now. Read more
Oh I did like what I saw..... I did like the matt grey Chevy! It was, if I am honest, the lure of Reese Witherspoon (playing June Carter Cash, and very well, let me say!) that made me switch!
My mum bought a StreetKa recently, and I got a go in it for the first time today.
What struck me most about it was the way the power is delivered. Comparing it to our own 1.4 Zetec-SE engined Fiesta which actually has a slightly better power to weight ratio (6 bhp down, but 150 kg lighter), the midrange punch of the eight valve engine makes it feel much more responsive in most situations. If you wring both engines to their redlines, the multivalve unit definitely feels happier, but in normal driving, I think the 8 valve acquits itself slightly better.
Don't get me wrong, I am a big fan of the Fiesta's Zetec-SE engine, but it is a "typical" multivalve engine. If you use all the revs it goes amazingly well for what it is, but it does feel quite flat under 3,000 RPM. The StreetKa's 8 valve Duratec unit pulls eagerly from pretty much the floor, and feels much more responsive, even though on paper the car is slightly slower.
This got me thinking. I recall a similar experience driving both 8 valve and 16 valve version of the Peugeot 306 XSi on the same day a few years ago. While the 16 valve was definitely the more powerful, and on paper had a modest performance advantage, it was the 8 valve that felt much more responsive and arguably felt quicker at "normal to mildly enthusiastic" engine speeds, and seemed to do more useful work over much more of the rev range than the 16 valve unit.
I realise that marketing spiel introduced the four valve per cylinder engine as a "must have" and sold it as a mark of advanced technology, but I think, based on admittedly limited experience of two types of car from two manufacturers, that the two valve design, however "obsolete" has a lot going for it. Four valves give us more power, but seem to stick it up the top of the rev range at the expense of torque lower down. Is this just chasing headline BHP figures at the expense of driveability?
What do you think?
Cheers
DP
PS - The StreetKa as a whole I thought was a pleasant surprise. A lot of fun to drive despite modest performance, and handles and steers beautifully. Too "girly" for me, but I really quite liked it. Read more
Having spent some time in the past with several (diesel) engine designers, the advantages of a 4 valve as opposed to a 2 valve layout have been outlined to me as follows:
4 (or 5) valves will give a better "fit factor" in the combustion chamber roof, enabling higher gas flows to be achieved at a defined valve lift. 5 valve layouts can compromise injector (and presumably spark plug) positioning and are generally not considered to be worth the mechanical complexity on a large diesel. My colleagues were geneally less impressed with the gas flow argument than other factors (see below) pointing out that increasing boost pressure is an inexpensive way of achieving a higher gas flow.
The advantage of a 4 valve head which featured most strongly has been touched upon above - valve seat length. A crucial factor in achieving efficient cylinder charging and scavenging is the rate of change of oriface size - which is in direct proportion to total valve seat length. Variable valve timing systems generally yield better results with a high rate of change of oriface size - achievable on a 2 valve layout only with "brick wall" cams, which would require "PD" oils to lubricate them. Large diesels are built to last a very long time, so highly stressed valve gear is not on the agenda - a 4 valve head and turbocharger is an iestablished ndustry standard (eg Rolls Royce Eagle) for most automotive applications.
659.
Like this perhaps?
news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/europe/6181788.stm Read more
Has already been mentioned.
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=46874
Please continue with discussion there please. DD.
Good evening,
I fitted a new battery and alternator to my son's Land Rover 90 a couple of weeks ago. All seemed fine, 12.6v with no ignition on, 14.4v with the engine running. Fine since then until this morning when it wouldn't start due to a low battery. Once we jump started it I tested the voltage: Battery 12.3v with the engine running at tickover, and if the revs were increased then the battery voltage dropped to below 12v. There were no lights or any electrical equipment switched on (save presumably the fuel pump).
Any ideas on what I should be testing?
MTIA Read more
Replaced alternator under warranty, all fine now....many thanks!!
Hi. I have a 2002 Passat TDI 130 sport, which is a great car. Recently though on occasions when I start it, the revs race to c 3000 RPM very briefly before dropping to the normal level. Has anyone else had a similar problem, or know what it might be. I'd like to have an idea before I take it to a garage. Could it be something to do with the turbo, or airflow meter? Any help appreciated. Cheers Read more
Agree - coolant temperature sensor was shot on mine - exactly the same symptoms. The bit is about £20 and 5-10 mins to fit..........
Hello wise men of England, (Are there more than 3 ?)
I have been offered a 306 with a 1997cc HDI engine with 70k miles. Unfortunately the car has been in some fresh water which has caused the engine to show its resentment.
I havent examined it yet but Im told its running on 3 cylinders (and so it should be cheap. )I wondered if anybody had experience of water damage - I suppose if somehow water got down the air intake because the bow wave was like that of a cross chanel ferry it could be a big problem. (bent con rod ?) On the other hand is it possible that one of the common rail injectors has packed in?
Would welcome any ideas on the engine checks I should make or other likely problem areas before I actually take a look.
I know we are all supposed to become more green(except Jeremy Clarkson) but could this 306 be described as a modern example of "pond-life"?
Thanks and a Happy 4 star Christmas.
Mike
Read more
Hi grease monkeys,
I seem to have found more than three wise men !
I dont know if I have the energy before Christmas to take on this project - it sounds as though the old adage "If it sounds too good to be true - then it probably is" applies here. I dont think I'll bother - if I should change my mind I'll let you know.
Thanks for your honesty. Hope I can return the favour sometime
Happy Christmas to all.
Mike
I am thinking about a buying a current shape Avensis - Haven't driven one yet, but like the look and quality feel of the car, and have heard good reports.
I'm hovering between 2.0 D-4D diesel (manual only), or a petrol automatic, as I've mostly had automatic cars over the years, but am also noticing hte increasing petrol prices, hence thinking of diesel as an alternative.
I do also have an old Celica Cabrio which is 180Bhp and automatic (this is a high-days and holidays fairweather car). On the celica the automatic box works well - the engine has plenty of grunt at low revs - doesn't need to be revved or thrashed to "go", and is incredibly smooth, even at quite a high mileage.
I've test-driven a few modern petrol Variable Valve engines (my mum has a newish Civic) and found them very thrashy - all power at the top-end, as soon as you get to a hill have to kickdown or use the auto selector to downchange (Don't have to in my Celica)
My quesion is what are poeples experiences with the Tiptronic box on the Avensis auto - Does it work well with these VVTi engines, or is it similar drive to the Civic - all top-end ? - There is a 1.8 and a 2.0i I gather - is it best to go for the bigger engine and is it better in terms of "grunt".
Does anyone know what the reliability of these boxes is like also ? I am assuming it is a more modern 'box than my 1995 Celica, or is it just an upgraded version of what I already have with a tiptronic selector bolted on. Read more
Thanks for the report Runboy
What is the Avensis auto like on long motorway inclines ?
Recently I test-drove a Mazda6 auto, (the earlier 4 speed) and it needed to kickdown to maintain 70mph on a motorway incline - not a relaxed drive, and certainly no "oomph" at even high revs - The MAzda6 auto just didn't seem to have the right gear ratios matched to theengine, or the engine just didn't suit an auto-box, I am not sure what the problem was, but it didn't "work " for me !
Just out of interest have you measured the fuel consumption (the computer is usually hopelessly inaccurate BTW) I would be interested to know what mpg you get under various types of driving.
Hi, friend of mine has just purchased a P plate Galaxy, TDi, the dash-board instruments work when they want to, or when he hits the dash (already advised him against that action due to sensitivity of airbag sensors!!!). The seller told him a wire came apart and that he soldered the connection........obviously didnt work! is this a common failure on these models, anything sinister, or just a loose connection? Thx Read more
From what you describe it sounds like a loose connection somewhere behind the instrument cluster. Sorry I can't be more specific with this model.
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Rotor arms are still around on some cars, but the top of the distributor is now usually screwed down, not retained by clips, so removing the arm is not a 2 minute job any more.