March 2006
Hi,
Could anybody help me out, l purchased a BMW 320d SE Tourer last year, on a 54 plate, l bought it 7 months old with 6000 miles on the clock, and since then l have noted it seems to use about 3/4 of a litre of oil per 2000 miles. Is this the correct oil consumption, for this type of car, as it seems excessive to me.
Could you also let me know the best procedure for checking the oil level on that particular car.
Many thanks
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My daughter has just called me for help,as the washer on her rear window of her 2003 Ibiza has stopped working. She has found though that water is dripping from the boot catch which means that there is a disconnected feed pipe.
She has removed the rear light cover panels and the trim from around the boot catch and removed four screws but the raer hatch trim panel remains securely intact.As I am not near I cannot suggest any other attachment points although there must be one or more.She says that there looks to be a removable panel which I think is the hatch closing recess grip but do not know whether it is removable.
Could anyone throw any light on how to remove this panel to refix the water feed.
Kind Regards.
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Hi daiking,
Sorry not to have replied earlier but went away on holiday am.8/3 and left my daughter to look at your links.
Shw has printed the photos and we have refitted the washer pipe following the instructions. Very easy ! Only one clip broken but no other damage so we will see if it rattles and but another clip if need be. By the way Seat have told my daughter that a modified clip is available (no part number ) for about 99p as it is a common problem. Couldn't even use a cable tie as extra security to stop it doing the same thing again.
Thanks again for the invaluable information.
Regards
Colabora.
I have read elsewhere on this forum of bulkhead cracks which lead to expensive repairs. See:
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?v=e&t=23...#
When I come to inspect a 93 would I be able to identify this problem? If so where do I look? My automotive knowledge is sorely lacking - I have no idea where the bulkhead is to begin with!
My budget limits me to models dated 98 or 99 but just below the 100k mileage.
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Ignore anyone (sorry chaps) who says the 900 was essentially the same; I had
a 900 before the 9-3 and for once the hype about '1 100 improvements' was
spot on.
Shame they didn't see fit to fix the cracking bulkhead problem which was present on both the C(h)avalier and the 900 then.
I averaged something like 31mpg over 55 000
miles with a best of 37.4 on the last long trip I did in it;
I averaged 26.9mpg regardless of where, when or how I drove it.
it prefers 98 RON but not enough to justify the UK price premium.
Mine preferred 10/40 after 74k miles. That's what you get for buying a GM engined SAAB.
Much as I respect the qualities of the Volvo that replaced the Saab and which
I still have I really liked that car especially the dashboard which is superb; the
wonderfully clear high-mounted audio/computer unit; and the boot which will take four full-size suitcases standing
upright and lock itself as the car moves off.
Have to agree with you. I loved that car for covering long distances. The Panel light switch was a stroke of genius. All lights off except the Speedo, then switch on the fuel or temp lights if you were getting low on fuel or there was an engine problem otherwise do not distract the driver. That computer told you pretty much everything you needed to know about the car.
I considered a new 9-3 when we were looking at the end of last year. The interior quality (or lack of - and that was moving from a Pug206) put me off, we bought an S60.
Hi
I need a little car, and have a tight budget. Little car owners... what do you drive? And what are their good points and drawbacks.
I know. The reviews here are great, and helpful, but there is nothing like the voice of experience.
Thanks in advance.
Ali
PS I have been looking at Pandas and..... Pandas so far. I like the little Panda, but am open to ideas. Read more
Thanks DD. It is appreciated.
Meanwhile, back to the motoring...
Road test. Yes, it has been on the road. I have now done over a hundred miles! I am disappointed to report that my car is very dirty. Twigs and leaves are now sticking to the wax, and the car has a big skirt like a hula girl.
I think I could get away with its being so dirty if I had the stripes. I mean, whoever saw a clean rally car? But I don't have the stripes and I am given away as the sloven that I am. I am not worthy of my pretty, white car.
It has been a tiring day, but thanks to the chivalry of the many against the whateveritwas of the few, I'll be back.
Swiftly.
Love to all.
Alijazz
Hello All,
I hope fellow Renault owners (TVM and co?) can help with this one.
Girlfriend drives a 2001 Renault Scenic RT fitted with front and back electric sunroofs. Over the weekend the rear sunroof jammed itself in the open position. When the switch is pressed to close the roof, I can hear a relay clicking adjacent to the roof, but the motor doesn't operate.
Is it possible to close the roof manually? Or, if its the anti-pinch mechanism at fault, can I override this long enough to get the roof shut?
TVM (or RF as he was then) posted instructions for the Scenic II - www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=23435&...e - but the sunroof on this model is controlled by a knob, and it seems that its possible to gain access to the roof motor to close it using an allen key. Does this also apply to the Sceinc Mk 1?
Any advice greatly appreciated, not least because tonight's weather forecast is for rain!
Regards,
- Gromit Read more
A quick update on the final outcome, in case it helps somebody else in due course:
Having had no success in finding how to remove the trim around the motor housing or switches, the local garage took a look last night. TVM was right - the offending motor and switchgear is behind the panel between the windscreen sunblinds, but this proved very difficult to remove without doing damage.
In the end, it turned out there was a loose connection to the control switch for the rear sunroof. Tightening this was enough to get the roof closed again.
Many thanks for your help on this, one and all. Much appreciated!
- Gromit
The car is a '98 Punto 75 Manual
The problem is the car is difficult getting into gear, especially when cold. Engaging reverse in the morning results in much crunching. Problem started about a year ago when the answer was to slip it into 1st or 2nd, lifting the clutch a little, depress clutch and then it would slip into reverse with no problem. However, now it is reluctant to go into any forward gear when cold. The answer now is to start engine in gear with the clutch depressed.
Car had new clutch and slave cylinder 18 months/6,000 miles ago. It has now done 60,000 miles. I bled the clutch today, with little improvement. No apparent leaks from the master cylinder. I haven?t yet checked the gearbox oil level, but thought I might change it anyway ? it?s meant to be done at 80,000. No oil leaks from the gearbox either.
So the questions are, any ideas as to the cause and, if I change the oil, should I replace it with SAE80W as specified, or go for something thinner?
Any advice, much appreciated.
Chris M
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Changed at the same time.
Chris M
to front ITV-F1
www.itv-f1.com/News_Article.aspx?PO_ID=35127
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I've heard both the German TV agreement and the falling out story, so I can't really shed any more light on it. It would have been good though had he managed to get an interview with him via Bernie's daughter a few weeks ago...
Does anyone have any experience of their employer introducing the fitting of tracking systems to the company fleet?
My understanding is that this may necessitate amendments to employment contracts (according to a provider's website) and employee consultation is recommended prior to the installation.
If neither of things things have happened, where would someone stand if they refused to have the kit fitted/use the vehicle until proper procedure had been followed?
No, it's not me, in case you're wondering and although I usually belong to the school of 'nothing to hide, nothing to fear' in these 'Big Brother' issues, that's no excuse for taking your employees for granted. The Information Commissioner publishes a guide covering Monitoring at Work in relation to Data Protection & Human Rights, and the employer in question doesn't appear to have read it... Read more
The WorkSmart site (run by the TUC) gives some pretty clear advice on what employers can do in terms of monitoring of vehicles:
www.worksmart.org.uk/rights/viewquestion.php?eny=6...3
As the data obtained by use of the vehicle tracker is subject to the Data Protection legislation, there is also information on the Information Commissioners website:
www.ico.gov.uk
...Are there any good ones on the internet?
I have a copy of the 2002 edition on my laptop and, whilst I am getting used to the basic workings of it I need:
1) a better working knowledge of it
2) more understanding of accountancy/book keeping in general.
I suspect a course or such like will help with 2 but, something that will help with both hand in hand would be great.
Can anyone help please?
Thanks
H>>
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Stuart, v many thanks. I've ordered a copy. £2.99 is still a result !
:-)))))))))))
Greetings. The Golf has spring an oil leak & the concrete driveway is sporting some lovely stains.
Now assuming that I fix this leak, what do the HJ collective suggest for removing the stains?
Last time I had to do this was when my 205 diesel dropped a bit, & I had it with washing up liquid, unfriendly bio persil, petrol. IIRC none of it really shifted it. More like 6 months later & a number of pressure washes. Odd really-petrol does such a brill job of degreasing anything else.
--
www.bayingbasset.com
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Don't they use cement dust on racing circuit tarmac, to mop up the oil instantly ?
I should imagine that not everybody wants a grey/white patch on their drive though !
Browse
This is quite heavy oil consumption, however the car hasn't done much mileage, and being a diesel is probably not fully run-in yet. It is often the case that new diesel engines can take at least 10,000 miles before the oil consumption stabilises, and if the car has been run-in very 'gently' this could be a lot longer, due to glazing of the bores etc.
In my view for a diesel to run well, after the first 1000 miles it should be driven hard and got hot as often as possible for the next few thousand miles, for the car to run realy well for the rest of its life.