March 2006
I wonder if the problem is related to the Distributor again. I had this replaced 3 yrs ago (covered 20K miles since). The problem is that the car turns over by the starter motor, and the RPM needle reads approx 300 - 500 rpm. But the eggine does not seems to fire up. I remember I had the same symptom 3 yrs ago and I called out the RAC to disgnose. The mechanic was spot on, he asked me to replace the distributor, which I did and fixed the problem.
I know it's not the battery, it's only replaced last few months (I also tried using a battery jump start to rule out that it'snot a battery problem).
I have alos serviced the car last month, with the spark plugs replaced. The car runs beautifully yesterday, but it failed to start this morning suddenly? Can this happen?
Can it be the distributor again? What can I check for? Or shall I just call the RAC again?
Thanks for any advice. Read more
1997 Rover 416 si ( rover engine)
Had for a few yaers, always been a good starter until now.
Just spent £500 on MOT, repairs & service , which is actually what Parkers says is the most the car is worth ( good private)
About 1 in 5 times that I start the car ( cold or warm .. rarely if hot engine ) it fires then revs die... and engine cuts out & won't start again , until left for 2-3 minutes , I know when it will start as after this problem if on second turn of key ( ignation on , but not styarter) I get a short whirling noise , then it generally starts .
Mentioned it when I had service... but never happened with mechanic !
Not keen on spending a lot more , as might be throwing good money ......
Any ideas. thanks
Read more
Cheers guys ... great help
I'm not that technically minded, but assumed it was something that controls fuel input ... found the box - behind the ECU, just unplugged leads , then plugged in again ...... tested a few times , and no probs yet, although its bound to go next time its important
My 2000X 1.6 Focus Duratec high speed fan runs even in the depths of winter after even a short traffic free journey. It does not have a heated screen and the aircon is not on at the time (I've checked that the electric clutch is disengaged). The problem dates from last summer when I changed the coolant. There seemed to be an airlock as the temp gauge went high and erratic, also the coolant level dropped. Topped up and it hasn't dropped since. But soon after that the a/c would not switch off. New switch fixed that but temp gauge was still erratic. New temp sensor in the head failed to give immediate fix but since then gauge seems to have stabilised by itself. New thermostat and cooling system flush to no avail, despite careful refill and bleed to avoid airlocks as before. Have disconnected battery for a few hours in attempt to let ECU self-reset but no change. If I arrive home with fan frantically whizzing away and switch off for a few seconds, then restart, fan is off. Very baffling. Read more
Thanks for that suggestion, it might be some sort of partial or intermittent blockage.
The radiator does work if you start the car and leave it to idle. As the engine heats, after about 10 minutes, the thermostat opens and the radiator gets hot and presumably there is a flow through it. If you are driving the car it gets hot and then at some point the radiator fan kicks in, cools the radiator and it goes cold and stays cold, as if somehow the flow to the coolant valve that feeds the heater is bypassing the radiator or there is a restriction to the flow through the radiator. Perhaps a blockage that clears and reforms?
I think I will ask them to drain the radiator and try to back flush it to confirm whether it is blocked or not. The coolant is very clean.
I'm also thinking it could be an airlock.
They are also going to try the by pass modification from the heater pipes to the radiator top hose at their cost, although apparently it only applies to the Focus. I've ordered the Ford TIS disk to get hold of the TSB. I also have a Focus 1.8 Zetec from 1999 and that has a completely different coolant hose system so comparison with that isn't much use.
The brake warning light and stop symbol keep coming on accompanied by a horrid beep usually when going downhill but not pressing the brake pedal. The brake functionality seems to be completely unaffected. My internet research has indicated abs module issues, but I was wondering if it could be a faulty pad wear sensor.
Before I put it on a Renault diagonstics system or remove the wheels I thought I would ask here.
Cheers Read more
Just keep an eye on it.
A friend had to fill his Almera up a few months ago because the light kept coming on. No sign of leaks. It's been fine since.
--------------
Mike Farrow
Hi,
Could anybody help me out, l purchased a BMW 320d SE Tourer last year, on a 54 plate, l bought it 7 months old with 6000 miles on the clock, and since then l have noted it seems to use about 3/4 of a litre of oil per 2000 miles. Is this the correct oil consumption, for this type of car, as it seems excessive to me.
Could you also let me know the best procedure for checking the oil level on that particular car.
Many thanks
Read more
This is quite heavy oil consumption, however the car hasn't done much mileage, and being a diesel is probably not fully run-in yet. It is often the case that new diesel engines can take at least 10,000 miles before the oil consumption stabilises, and if the car has been run-in very 'gently' this could be a lot longer, due to glazing of the bores etc.
In my view for a diesel to run well, after the first 1000 miles it should be driven hard and got hot as often as possible for the next few thousand miles, for the car to run realy well for the rest of its life.
My daughter has just called me for help,as the washer on her rear window of her 2003 Ibiza has stopped working. She has found though that water is dripping from the boot catch which means that there is a disconnected feed pipe.
She has removed the rear light cover panels and the trim from around the boot catch and removed four screws but the raer hatch trim panel remains securely intact.As I am not near I cannot suggest any other attachment points although there must be one or more.She says that there looks to be a removable panel which I think is the hatch closing recess grip but do not know whether it is removable.
Could anyone throw any light on how to remove this panel to refix the water feed.
Kind Regards.
Read more
Hi daiking,
Sorry not to have replied earlier but went away on holiday am.8/3 and left my daughter to look at your links.
Shw has printed the photos and we have refitted the washer pipe following the instructions. Very easy ! Only one clip broken but no other damage so we will see if it rattles and but another clip if need be. By the way Seat have told my daughter that a modified clip is available (no part number ) for about 99p as it is a common problem. Couldn't even use a cable tie as extra security to stop it doing the same thing again.
Thanks again for the invaluable information.
Regards
Colabora.
I have read elsewhere on this forum of bulkhead cracks which lead to expensive repairs. See:
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?v=e&t=23...#
When I come to inspect a 93 would I be able to identify this problem? If so where do I look? My automotive knowledge is sorely lacking - I have no idea where the bulkhead is to begin with!
My budget limits me to models dated 98 or 99 but just below the 100k mileage.
Read more
Ignore anyone (sorry chaps) who says the 900 was essentially the same; I had
a 900 before the 9-3 and for once the hype about '1 100 improvements' was
spot on.
Shame they didn't see fit to fix the cracking bulkhead problem which was present on both the C(h)avalier and the 900 then.
I averaged something like 31mpg over 55 000
miles with a best of 37.4 on the last long trip I did in it;
I averaged 26.9mpg regardless of where, when or how I drove it.
it prefers 98 RON but not enough to justify the UK price premium.
Mine preferred 10/40 after 74k miles. That's what you get for buying a GM engined SAAB.
Much as I respect the qualities of the Volvo that replaced the Saab and which
I still have I really liked that car especially the dashboard which is superb; the
wonderfully clear high-mounted audio/computer unit; and the boot which will take four full-size suitcases standing
upright and lock itself as the car moves off.
Have to agree with you. I loved that car for covering long distances. The Panel light switch was a stroke of genius. All lights off except the Speedo, then switch on the fuel or temp lights if you were getting low on fuel or there was an engine problem otherwise do not distract the driver. That computer told you pretty much everything you needed to know about the car.
I considered a new 9-3 when we were looking at the end of last year. The interior quality (or lack of - and that was moving from a Pug206) put me off, we bought an S60.
Hi
I need a little car, and have a tight budget. Little car owners... what do you drive? And what are their good points and drawbacks.
I know. The reviews here are great, and helpful, but there is nothing like the voice of experience.
Thanks in advance.
Ali
PS I have been looking at Pandas and..... Pandas so far. I like the little Panda, but am open to ideas. Read more
Thanks DD. It is appreciated.
Meanwhile, back to the motoring...
Road test. Yes, it has been on the road. I have now done over a hundred miles! I am disappointed to report that my car is very dirty. Twigs and leaves are now sticking to the wax, and the car has a big skirt like a hula girl.
I think I could get away with its being so dirty if I had the stripes. I mean, whoever saw a clean rally car? But I don't have the stripes and I am given away as the sloven that I am. I am not worthy of my pretty, white car.
It has been a tiring day, but thanks to the chivalry of the many against the whateveritwas of the few, I'll be back.
Swiftly.
Love to all.
Alijazz
Hello All,
I hope fellow Renault owners (TVM and co?) can help with this one.
Girlfriend drives a 2001 Renault Scenic RT fitted with front and back electric sunroofs. Over the weekend the rear sunroof jammed itself in the open position. When the switch is pressed to close the roof, I can hear a relay clicking adjacent to the roof, but the motor doesn't operate.
Is it possible to close the roof manually? Or, if its the anti-pinch mechanism at fault, can I override this long enough to get the roof shut?
TVM (or RF as he was then) posted instructions for the Scenic II - www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=23435&...e - but the sunroof on this model is controlled by a knob, and it seems that its possible to gain access to the roof motor to close it using an allen key. Does this also apply to the Sceinc Mk 1?
Any advice greatly appreciated, not least because tonight's weather forecast is for rain!
Regards,
- Gromit Read more
A quick update on the final outcome, in case it helps somebody else in due course:
Having had no success in finding how to remove the trim around the motor housing or switches, the local garage took a look last night. TVM was right - the offending motor and switchgear is behind the panel between the windscreen sunblinds, but this proved very difficult to remove without doing damage.
In the end, it turned out there was a loose connection to the control switch for the rear sunroof. Tightening this was enough to get the roof closed again.
Many thanks for your help on this, one and all. Much appreciated!
- Gromit
{Moved from Technical Matters - DD}
My cystern has started playing up recently.I find the only way to flush is to operate the flush lever in a rapid pump action untill a pressure is built up, at which point the cystern will flush. I would be grateful for any help. Thanks Read more
Cheers for the replies so far. Espada, they are definitely buying the house and it is one street away from her mother's so certainly would be no problem with family looking in every week, if not more regularly!
Any brokers that you would recommend or even a starting point? House is in Scotland if that makes any difference, though I am sure it won't?
Browse
.jpg)
I will try and take leads back to see what they say. After all the part was not fit for purpose, i.e shorter length and the original VW. If that fails then I will eBay it.