August 2005
hi(AGAIN!) going down the motorway yesterday i noticed the the engine is not getting up to its normal operating temp as it used to(100 degrees before fan kicked in) i thought it might be air in the system but im not sure. also i have found out that the passsenger and drivers footwells are realy hot that also never happened before and neither did the fact that the ignition key get hot after a long run the heater fan isnt on so i cant imagine what could be wrong. any info on this is ,as always, much apprecated Read more
Has any else had problems with there tyres wearing on there C8 i have 15" standard wheelson mine. Read more
There is a known problem with the rear tyre weay and some owners have had replacement allows and tyre, different size and profile to cure the problem speak with your main dealer and cit UK. Regards Peter
can i jump start a positive earth car with a negitive earth car is there a special way of doing it Read more
If you want to frighten yourself, read all the previous threads about the dangers to the electronics of both cars arising from jump starting. But otherwise, just do it!
The positive earth one at least will be about 40 years old, so indestructible anyway.
hi can any one tell me if there is a fuse to the fag lighter. its just gone dead so looked in the book( nothing ) so removed the lighter itself ,thought the fuse would be behind it but its not. so please help or is it me just being thick.......
cheers
dave Read more
thanks dave your a star. the book or the panel didnt state it.but sorted now.
Mondeo 97 1.8 Turbo Diesel estate.
My sons Taxi mondeo, has been recently over reving. took it to ford main dealer, who said it was due to the fuel pump. need new one....cost 1300 pounds!
He found a second hand one off a friend, garage said it was ok, and compatible, but on fitting, will not start, and has been told they couldnt configre it with electrics, and will still need a new one. Do you think this is right? and the cost?
Johnny. Read more
£200 pounds for installing a pump on a Mondeo ,begads I am in the wrong job.
Living up to my name, I managed to smash the passenger side rear light unit on my rover 414....bulb etc intact...does anyone know if I can replace just the plastic cover ( whatever it is called?) & if so how, plus if not, would I as a reasonably practical person, be able to replace the whole unit myself? Read more
that I recall these are one unit.Held on by I think 4x 8mm nuts,when replacing unit use silicon sealant on both sides of gasket used or not.as they do and will leak if you dont,you should be able to do yourself they are not hard to do
--
Steve
can any boffins come up with a simple electronic circuit that when the ignition is switched off a flashing led is activated.got one at the moment wired via a switch though keep forgetting to put it on when leaving the car! Read more
Have you got the specs for the LED? Subtract the voltage drop from 12V*, and divide by the forward current to give an estimate of the *lowest* value of series resistor to use.
Sometimes these flashing LEDs come with an appropriate series resistor already in place, and the lead wires can be connected straight across the 12V supply. Check the spec.
When wiring in a plain LED, I would first try it in series with a 1K resistor, and measure the current to check against the LED spec, to make sure I had some margin - for some you can use 470R, but I would begin at 1K.
I suspect that as your LED hasn't blown already, it will probably be fine. But I would suggest that you check it out.
I hope that is helpful.
Number_Cruncher
* It's OK to say 12V, because while the engine is running and battery voltage is ~14V, there is no voltage drop across the diode. Also, the resistance calculated is the lowest value, a higher value should be used to give some margin.
Just a 'heads up'. The tv prog where Mike Brewer buys a car for Ed China to sell is back tonight, 9pm on Discovery Realtime.
Projects include a Porsche 928 and a Lancia Delta. Read more
One thing that struck me is that no dealer worth his salt would buy a car out of auto trader,he paid £800 to much at what this motor would have brought at auction.It would be much more interesting if he was to do a program for real.
Hi,
I have a 1.8 w plate Focus ghia which for the last few days has suffered from a rough idle at both cold and warm, though at cold it is a bit worse. It also feels a bit rough if you drive along in gear and take your foot of the accelerator letting it roll along.
The first morning when it started i had to pull over as the revs started climbing out of control. But when i re-started it it seemed ok.
THANKS IN ADVANCE :D Read more
OO i'd just like to add that as long as your foot is on the accelerator then it seems ok.
Mods - Sorry if this is a duplicate, the link crashed after fist posting.
Having come up from the S of France The old BX 1.7 TD had mechanically behaved itself for 700+ miles (at better than 52mpg overall. I decided to fill up at the Total filling station just outside Rouen (on the Calais Autoroute) and when I got to the pump found that the ordinary diesel (gasoil) filler was out of order and the only diesel on offer was a 'premium' diesel at a 4c per litre higher price (on a high price already!).
Within 500m of leaving the filling station the car started to run roughly and would run out of go at about 75 mph. Unusual because it was always willing to pull well when running at 80 mph earlier in the day.
Questions are:
Does the premium fuel have anything that could cause this? (unlikely).
Is it likely that normally nobody else will pay such an extortionate price in France for diesel and this fuel has been sitting in storage for months? and become contaminated?
Did anybody else stop at this service station and fill up from the same pump (First on rhs) on Monday at about 12.30? Long shot!
The problem may resolve itself when I next fill up, but it wont be for another 300 miles to ensure the tank is almost empty.
Any other ideas please, I am getting nearer to the point of scrapping it but mechanically it seems only just run in at 125K.
--
pmh (was peter)
Read more
P.S. The Forte product is even better than Millers IMHO, (and that of my local diesel specialist..)
rg
Browse
Not sure about an air lock, wouldn't this cause the engine to run hot rather than cool? Running cool usually means the thermostat is stuck open. Do you mean the footwell carpets are hot to the touch? I don't think any of the cooling pipes run anywhere but to the back of the heater matrix which sits just above transmission tunnel i.e. straight through the bulkhead to the matrix.