April 2005
i have taken it back to renault, they say they have fixed it.
but i dont think that they have.
my megane , when its dark, the xenons come on, and kinda move up and down to adjust themselves to be the right height.
but in the clio, they come on, and just point at the floor.
pretty dangerous on the motorway, as i couldnt see much in front, whilst driving at 70mph.
whilst my megane sport tourer, when u go uphill, they move, you can actually hear them going, (like a mechanical whiring as they move up and down)
you pull up behind a car and pull up sharpish, and the lights move up as the front end dips down, then when the car front moves up, the headlights move down.
i assumed this is how the clio would be. but they dont.
any idea's?
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Hi, just wondering if anbody could offer some advice.
I have a job interview at a main car dealer on Tuesday morning.
The main part of the job is to valet cars.
I have not worked doing car veleting before and they know this.
For part of the interview I will be meeting up with the service manager and he would like me to clean a car.
When we spoke on the phone about interview he said this would be to get an idea of my eye for detail and what I may be like.
So what I would like is any advice and tips from people who may do this kind of work on what they may be looking for and what kind of time I should be spending on the car.
Thanks Ian.
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Crazy, dare I ask - how did it go?
Since the earlier thread has been locked as it travelled way OT...
The last time I needed a new windscreen I decided that having experienced a decidedly variable service from specialist firms, I would take it to the main (BMW) dealer to replace.
I was astonished that there was no quibble from the insurance company, only them telling me that I would need to pay upfront and send them the invoice for reimbursement (which only took a fortnight).
I haven't the faintest idea whether they subcontracted the job out to one of the specialist firms or did it themselves, but the result was the first replacement that went without a problem and that you couldn't tell from the original. They went went to the extent of replacing the airbag warning stickers on the windscreen (and included them on the invoice).
Mind you £450 for a replacement screen, meant that the insurance company didn't make any money out of me last year. Read more
I had the same experience i.e. the independent windscreen company screwed up what should have been a routine repair job (turned a 10 mm crack into an 18mm crack), after which I got the local BMW dealership to replace the screen. BMW Insurance agreed to this, no quibble. A couple of years later - no problems.
The same dealership also replaced the rear screen for me under warranty for a minor fault (the rear screen demister was causing AM radio interference). Again, no problems.
Oz (as was)
Hi, the part which I thiunk is called the regulator? seems to keep failing. It has a ball on part which pushes into to a round whole on the other part.
Trouble is the damn thing keeps popping out?
Any ideas on how to repair this or where to get a cheap replacement from please?
Cheers Read more
No there is like a metal ball which pushes into a hole which keeps popping out, it clicks when window goes up and down and after a while pops out, last repair lasted a week!
It all starts with a puncture - and guess what ! - cant get wheel off - so call in pro boys and they use a slug of 4" x $2 and a sledgehammer- having put 4 new tyres on and getting ripped off - £530 for 4 dunlop p900s I now find the rear handles like carp - its ok on smooth tarmac but when trhere is a bump it jumps sideways on any corner - feels like there is no suspension ! when pushed down each rear corner it bounces back up ok but is that just the spring - any ideas ?? Read more
Any reccomendations for rear shocks ? SAAB originals or is there
a better alternative ? cost is secondary to performance / longevity
You really need to browse through the forum link I posted earlier to get a better idea. The short answer is yes, there are "alternatives" but depends what you mean by better. If you want to sharpen up the handling, there are a number of options e.g. Eibach, Bilstein (both around £550 for the whole car, not just the rear), or the Saab performance upgrade (c. £300-400). If you just want new dampers, possibly Koni adjustables at £180 per pair? Try Elkparts at www.elkparts.co.uk/index.php/cPath/75 for a whole range of options.
I have the Eibach upgrade on my car, seems to be the most popular. Personally, I think it's a little hard, but it sure is an improvement over the standard and most of the other forum members seem happy with it - after all, I am a 50-year old softie!
HTH
I have a V reg 1.1 Saxo and seems to have a problem where it has temporary loss of power when accelerating or just cruising along in general. The car then starts to jolt and gets surges of power. The only way to stop it doing this is usually to change gear
Occasionally when slowing down the car has a tendency to stall, even though the car is still moving at a reasonable speed of around 30 mph and appears to have low revs, this is noticable when waiting at traffic lights etc as when no gas is applied the lights seem less bright, only to illuminate better once gas is applied.
Any ideas what could be wrong with it? The car has recently been serviced (this problem was happening prior to the service) Read more
Hi, has anyone suffered a metallic knocking noise coming from the rear of their agila.Happens mostly over bumps especially if there are passengers in the back.Any advice would be much appreciated. Read more
I have checked the obvious. I had a mate drive the car with me in the boot and it sounds suspension related - when the car is thrown from far left to far right and back it clunks at the top and bottom of the suspension limits. It is going into a garage tomorrow - i'll post the outcome!
Friends 2000 1.8LX Focus had an emissions test this weekend.
At idle: HC=OK, CO=OK
BUT Lambda = 1.15
The Lambda figure stayed the same at all revs up to 4000. HC and CO still within limits at all speeds.
Car runs and drives okay.
What is the backroom opinion - new lambda sensor required maybe? Read more
I would also go with the small air leak into the exhaust. However, you could check the lambda sensor yourself, either with a cheap multimeter (£5 from Maplin type) or one of those testers that ECP sell for about £16. Look for it switching at 0.5-1Hz at idle and then faster as you rev the engine to 2000rpm.
Anyone able to recommend a place to get air-conditioning serviced in the Gatwick area?
A 1999 Ford Galaxy has a problem with vibration. Possibly the air-con clutch.
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Thank you to whoever shortened that vast URL I posted into something manageable! Please may we technophobes be told how it is done, so that we can do it ourselves and thus save bandwidth or whatever? Thanks
Hi,
this is gonna be a daft one but anyone got any ideas on undoing a sump plug on a 106? ive been out there for about an hour now and cant get the blasted thing to budge, tried wd40 before someone says Read more
My old Peugeot drain plug used to need a square peg - a decent accessory shop should have one.
As all the above comments:
if it's not been shifted for a while it will need a huge effort to shift it - usually accompanied by a loud click, closely followed by whatever noise you make when you skin your knuckles.
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lol
cheers RF.