December 2004
Hi,
Is it a good idea to buy a car now that will be having a face lift in the next few months.
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I have a Golf MK3 1.6CL. First start when cold, it starts with the turn of the key, then starts chugging and dies out. You have to repeat this starting and it dies out each time for about 4 goes before it will stay running and then it chugs for while and after that it runs ok.
All plugs appear to be burning nicely.
Anyone know what the cause as it appears to be getting worse
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The VAG additive is obtainable only from VAG main dealers and they rarely have it in stock but are always willing to order it. If your Halfords additive (an injector cleaner, presumably) hasn't yet worked, then you'll need to find another solution to the problem, I fear; the VAG stuff worked within 24 hours for me. (Two main dealers could have saved themselves and me a lot of grief had they simply been aware of the product, as they worked on the Audi's cool-running problems at every annual service over about five years without success. It was not the first time that I doubted the competence of main-dealer service shops.)
Used my 1994 laguna this morning and everything was fine. Used it later on, managed about one mile and the STOP on the instrument display lit up and the temperature warning light came on.Then the engine died completely. Luckily I wasn't on the outside lane of a motorway. Just managed to make the roadside. When I checked under the bonnet I found some gunk in the oil cap[head gasket gone]and the cooling system expansion tank looked empty. I topped up the tank with some water, about 1 pint, but it made no difference.Plenty of life in the battery,plenty of fuel,not sure what to do now. Any ideas would be much appreciated. I know a bit about cars but I am no expert. I have a Haynes manual but on this occasion it has been no use.
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The lack of water, over temp, and gunk on oil filler certainly points to the head gasket. My guess is the head has warped and you have lost compression, which is why it won't start. Could be the cam belt, but I doubt it. First need to get the cam covers off and see if the belt is intact. Then possibly a compression test (which I am sure will show negligible compression!), followed by 'off with its head'!
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RichardW
Is it illogical? It must be Citroen....
Following a large LHM leak from the BX, I cleaned it up using a new can of a proprietary degreasant (which I have used on the tarmac before with no adverse effects).
The tarmac has now lost all of its binding properties in the localality of the spill, I have a hole about 60cm diam about 1-2 cms deep!
Is this the LHM or has the makeup of the degreasant been recently modified to make it more aggressive?
I am in trouble with SWMBO!!!!!!
pmh (was peter) Read more
In that case the driveway wil be getting damaged by the LHM with the help of the Degreaser!
'The Times' dated 4 December 2004 has a snipet about a Vintage Car discovered in the cellar of an Italian Marquess? house. It is estimated by ?specialists? to have been made about 1901, and has ?features? which suggest that it was intended for polar or mountain use.
Does anybody have any details?
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Can anyone suggest a reason for the following??
I have a 1997 Ford Fiesta 1.25LX with a zetec-s engine. Its done about 55000 miles.
Occaisionally the engine seems to bog down and suffer poor acceleration for up to about 30 seconds and then suddenly surge and pick up speed even when keeping the same throttle position.
It happens at all engine speeds in all gears and it doesn't seem to matter whether the engine is hot or cold.
Apart from that it runs fine and.
I'd appreciate any suggestions for the cause of this.
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I would check the ignition system, sounds like it could be a coil or ignition lead fault creating a mis-fire when the engine is under load. I had a similar problem once and the main dealer diagnosed a faulty high tension lead.
Best to get this checked out soon as the poor running could damage the catalyst.
Hi,
Does anyone know of an easy way to change the glow plugs in the fiesta? I dont want to start taking parts off the engine to change them.
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This engine has the easiest to change glowplugs of all cars!
Two spanners required, sockets if you have them!
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groups.msn.com/honestjohn - Pictures say a thousand words.....
I have a 1999 Rover 200 (214) and the car alarm is driving me batty. It keeps going off after I lock with the fob, it is that bad that I'm thinking of taking the alarm out.
Have had it into Rover garage, who have allegedly fixed it citing some wiring as being the cause which they claimed to have fixed and charge me £75, but its still going off.
Anyone any similar experiences?
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200 & 400 were made right up to 1999, so I think it is a 214!!
You've already paid £75? I'd go back and kick up a stink.
They can read the 5AS Alarm trigger store momory and see what's setting the alarm off....easy.
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groups.msn.com/honestjohn - Pictures say a thousand words.....
Jobs where you just drive. Any suggestions for these?. I know that salesmen log serious mileage, but that wouldn't suit as I don't want to sell anything. LGV driver would appear to be ideal as I used to drive one when I was living in the US, but over here all the restrictions and the high cost of entry (coupled with pathetically low pay)makes me want to look elsewhere.
A few years ago I read an article on manufacturer test drivers. Not necessarily the high speed, track type, but more to do with endurance. Basically driving vehicles for many miles/hours to test new cars or systems before they enter production. Where would one go to find out more information about such jobs?. There is nothing that I have found on manufacturer websites and I don't know of any particular qualification needed. One would assume you didn't need to be an Engineer of any sort just to drive them. Read more
See my {P}, I love my job, not the best earner but who cares.. i certainly don't.
My key fobs will not operate the central locking. I think it is the infra-red version ( correct me if im wrong - 1997 P reg xldt ).
I have replaced the batteries in the key fob thinking this may be the problem. However this has not fixed the problem. I have a spare fob which I have also tried the new batteries but still nothing.
Are there any tests I can do on the in car sensor? Read more
I have managed to get the spare plipper working... What I needed to do was "programme" the in car sensor to accept my spare plipper.
I was told to switch on the ignition and within 10 seconds point the new plipper at the infra red sonsor near the rear view mirror and press the button which activates the central locking... and hey presto the spare plipper now works.
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If you want to look even more attractive, skip the facelift (there are dangers and subjects often look terrible afterwards) and buy a bicycle.