December 2004
Hi, a friend has a Laguna '98 3.0 V6 24V.
The clutch needs replacing. Any ideas on how much this would cost (labour - has been quoted for £130 clutch).
Also anyone know of a good (value ) upgraded clutch and where to buy from (don't mind ordering from net - even from Europe).
I think the clutches are weak spots on these. He had one replaced at about 50k miles ago (car has now done 146000). Read more
Hello
I need to commute 180-degrees around the M25 - from the A41 in the north to the M20 in Kent.
Conundrum - which way around to go ? (via Heathrow, or Dartford tunnel)
Please can anyone advise - where are the hotspots and jams in both the morning and evening rush-hours ?
going through London is NOT an option.
(I searched the other threads - but nothing which gives the whole-M25 perspective))
Thanks Read more
Where is the coolant temp sender located on a K11 Nissan Micra?
The Haynes manual seems to indicate that I should follow the radiator top hose back to the thermostat and the sender is located behind that on the engine block.
Can't see any relevant wires, though. Is it located under the engine? I seem to recall that the temp sender on my old Fiesta was underneath and screwed out using a spanner.
Thanks
Mike Read more
Where is the coolant temp sender located on a K11 Nissan
Micra?
Groundhog day?
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=25484
Has anyone got any suggestions how I can get my brake discs off. I have tried whacking them with a hammer but they are not moving. It has been suggested to use a three legged gear puller. Do you think this will work ???
The vehicle in question is a MGF. (which I've added to the subject header!} Read more
They always seem to be difficult to get off on the 'F' My chosen method is; once you have removed the caliper and carrier replace the wheelnuts two or three turns (to stop the disc flying off and injuring you) don a pair of goggles and with a 2lb lump hammer firmly hit the disc between the studs a few times all round then try and knock the disc off the hub. Squirting a bit of diesel around the hub and studs can help. Failing that, the 'Jim' method NEVER fails!
Andrew
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Simplicate and add lightness!!
Just what I needed. I'm going away on holiday for 4 weeks this evening - but some kind soul has keyed the side of my car. There are several scratches up & down and side to side to drivers door and rear panel. It looks a right mess. Some of them are quite deep & have gone through all layers of paint
Problem - I am not going to have time to get it sorted before I go away this evening - is there some sort of 'homemade remedy' I can use to stop corrosion starting while i'm away? I was thinking about a good thick coating of petroleum jelly, but I am unsure if it'll work/damage the surrounding paint work & if it will stay on during icy nights. The car will be outdoors while I'm away.
Thank you BR'ers. Read more
Aprilia - I sit corrected, and bow to your experience !
I just got back from spending 5 days in Finnish Lapland, where the temperature was between -15 and -25, and there was snow everywhere. Even though the roads had not been cleared, the coach still managed to travel everywhere at 90Kmph and was not phased by hills, both up and down. There were no cars dumped at the side of the road, and no vehicles had snow chains.
Ok, so these are conditions that they have for about 5 months of the year, and they are used to them, but it proved to me that it is possible to drive in snow with no problems.
I'm not looking forwards to the chaos that will ensue here when the first snow drops fall this year.
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Every Fin that can reach the steering wheel and pedals is a rally driver.
Morning all i have a Xantia 1800cc 8v SXI N reg 1995, i have noticed in the past couple of weeks the front suspension gardually getting harder and harder, and is getting to the point now where im being driven round the bend. I am thinking its the front spheres but i am not sure ive owne the car 3 years now and never had the problem. I would like to try changing these my self but i am not quite sure how, 1 guy told me i have to have the car set to the lowest level to release the pressure undo the spheres and the screw the new ones on and that the suspension system bleeds itself is this true and can anyone confirm for me how it is done.
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I don't know if it is applicable in this case, but we have a ten year old Xantia which has it original spheres, owing to the fact that several years ago, valves where fitted to all of the spheres to enable them to be repressurised. This was done when the car was quite young (about 3 to 4 years), as I had noticed the ride becoming much firmer, and I had no idea at the time that the spheres do leak gas over a period of time, until the mechanic who services the car mentioned it.
As long as no damage has been caused to seals, etc, by the losss of pressure, this is a labour saving and cheap alternative to fitting new spheres. I have them repressurised about once a year at a cost of about £25.
One question that comes to mind, is why it should be only the front spheres that are affected? Nine years is a long time for a set of spheres and I would expect that all the spheres would be low on pressure by now. In the case of our car, the pressure loss was greater in the rear spheres.
My 1998 Mercedes SLK 230 Kompressor suddenly started to drop out of cruise control over a 15 mph band between 79mph and 94mph (on autobahns and closed roads of course). It works fine at all speeds up to 78mph and above 95mph. It will engage for moments only between these speeds and then drop out.
It has spent a whole day in the main dealers workshop and a
diagnosis of a faulty engine management unit was made, cost to
replace £1,300.
It went in for this, had a new EMU fitted, but came out unchanged with the old unit as the new unit made no difference.
The workshop appears to have no idea of the cause and suggests booking it in for further extremely expensive diagnostic tests but not really knowing what they are looking for. It has only done 23.000 miles with full servicing and two original tyres still on. They also said Mercedes would make no contribution to the unit wearing out at 23,000 miles as the car was so old.
What is the diagnosis? How is it cured?
John Knox
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PS - should add that I always recomment anyone with one of these cars to rotate the wheels every 3000 miles - do a corner-corner rotation (but check tyres for directionality first).
I bought an automatic Corolla recently, and am unsure what is the best driving practice for automatics on snow/ice? As this is my first auto I am unsure of what to do. We are forcast a very cold winter this year!!
Mike Read more
On some cars it's labelled W for winter
Others have a '*' for snowflakes....
Aprilia is right - the '2' program usually limits the box to 1st or 2nd - for going down steep inclines. You need a W/*/whatever mode or a manual mode to lock into 2nd.
The wife has a N reg citroen synergie 2.0 petrol recently its started to idle fast when cold i have been told by citroen it could be the idle stepper motor needs a clean or replacing does anyone know where i will find this in the engine or even any other sugestion to what the prob could be. Thanks for any help. Read more
Assuming its the magneti marrelli system that was on my 2.0 405, it could be the idle stepper motor or (in the case of my 405) the throttle position sensor. Try turning the ignition on (key position II) and waiting for a minute before starting. The engine mangagement re-learns the idle point of the throttle sensor. If the idle is then Ok, it is more likely the throtttle position sensor.
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R>> The J12-J15 roadworks have over a year to run, although they
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Read all about it but dated Jan 04
www.runnymede.gov.uk/environt/m25widening/m25widen...p
includes a link to a 30Mb M25 Infomercial.
and
www.synomia.com/sitesearch/consult5/index.php