December 2004
I had my bike Mot'd this morning and it passed, with even a comment from the tester that it was in really good condition for five years old. When I got home I checked the certificate which was in order and pinned to it was a slip telling me my brakes had been tested on a Tecalemet Motorcycle Brake Tester.
This gave a readout of 110kg brake force on the front, and 105kg on the rear. However, the brake efficiency was measured at 37% and 35% respectively, which seems rather low. I am not worried, as the brakes are as good as ever with pads and disc's which have plenty of life left in them and they did pass without comment. How should one interpret these figures, does it mean that the brakes fitted are not reckoned to be particularly good, or would a figure of 100% mean they would have the effect of hitting a wall when you touched the lever and would therefore be dangerous?
Just curious as to what figures would be the norm and how low they could go before they were unsafe. Read more
I have a M plate 620 ti, mileage about 65k. Daily driver doesnt really get caned.
The head gasket is due for its 3rd Replacement (Under Warrenty), but what really concerns me is that ive heard reports that Rover are stating that the head has gone "SOFT" (their description, not mine) and although they will replace the gasket under warrenty, i will be required to buy and have fitted a new head (£600.00 for the head)
What i want to know is... Is this Rover trying to find a way around their obligation to replace the head gasket warrenty issue or is this a genuine technical issue (my local garage has never heard of it)
If it is genuine, what recourse do i have against rover for fitting sub standard parts ?? The reason for asking is if rover knows about this problem, and the information i have would indicate that they do, why has a product recall not been issued?
Many thanks
3Speed Read more
I guess it is down to a parts warranty claim, not a vehicle warranty claim.
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groups.msn.com/honestjohn - Pictures say a thousand words.....
Toyota Landcruiser Colorado (Mk1, 96-99)
When I bought the car the electric aerial mast was missing, though you could hear the motor whirring away when you switched the radio on/off.
I took it to a Toyota dealer yesterday for a service and to have a replacement mast fitted; They fitted the mast (£30) but it doesn't properly retract or extend - fully retracted its still 12 inches out and fully extended its only about 16 inches out. The dealership says that it needs a new electric motor which costs almost £200! - their argument was that at least the radio would work now even though the aerial isn't functioning properly (OK, fair enough).
My main questions are....
a). Has anyone come across this before?
b). Do you think it really needs a new motor?
c). If so, will an aftermarket (i.e. cheaper) aerial motor fit?
d). How do you access the aerial motor - do you have to remove/drop the wheel arch lining?
TIA,
Chad. Read more
Thanks. I'll take it apart and and have a look.
However, if the motor is gone, will a "universal" motor do?
Cheers,
Chad.
There is a growing trend to decorate houses with lights, inflatable santas, all sorts of things.
Now to keep this motoring related;
1/ Best lights you see
2/ worst / tackiest lights you see.
3/ Motoring link
I will start the ball rolling..
1/ Not seen them yet
2/ Scotland Bridge Road, New Haw - very tacky
3/ Right before a set of traffic lights controlling a narrow canal bridge, been one minor shunt already caused by the distraction no doubt. Read more
4 X $ pickup
:-D
I have just been reading the DVLA document New Car Tax Rules.
It says that SORN lasts 12 months, but apparently it cannot be transferred to a new owner, unlike car tax. So if I buy a SORNed car I must immediately SORN it myself.
There is the problem. Supposing I buy such a car part-way through a month. Its old SORN now lapses, and I must re-declare SORN myself. But ?SORN applications cannot be backdated?, and apparently can run from the first of a month only.
So what happens about the 2-3 week gap before my new SORN starts?
Read more
I suspect that this another example of sloppy drafting of legislation and the intended wording is "SORN cannot be backdated to a month previous to that in which it is declared".
Bit of a strange of for you. The heating started going hot and cold a couple of weeks ago. Investigations proved it was a airlock created by a water leak. Filled it up and bled it out OK.
The other night I got back to my car and there was about half a cup full of coolent on the floor - near the drivers side front wheel. When I put the car up on ramps it is impossible to see where the leak is comind from, just apears to be from the L.H.S of the engine (as you look at it from the top).
Any ideas on diagnosis ? Its not lost a drip in the past few days but I think its just a matter of time..
Cheers
PS - Its not the heater matrix - been replaced
Its not the head gasket - Oil looks OK and normal ruinning temp is fine Read more
Stockport, just in case ;-)
Hi, i would be grateful if any body could provide some comments on the new Skoda Octavia, costs of ownership, relaibility and overall satisfaction levels. Is the car durable, ie if one was to buy a PDI 130bhp version will it go on for 10 years...
Thanks Read more
I tried one of Skoda's 24 hour test drives in the new Octavia with the 1.9tdi 105bhp engine. Interior was on a par with VW Audi products, everything felt well put together and solid. The boot was cavernous and plenty of cubby holes, cup holders etc dotted the cabin.
The only downside was that the engine sound left you in doubt it was a diesel, it did sound clattery both outside and inside when driving.
I decided to spend more money and buy the outgoing Audi A4 Avant and got a very good deal on a stock, but unregistered model. It has the "old" 1.9Tdi 130bhp lump and sounds much smoother. Under normal driving conditions you can barely hear the engine let alone recognise it as an oil burner except for the infrequent stops to fill it up. Averaged 45 mpg and the car is barely run in at 700 miles.
If money were more tight, I would have certainly tried the Octavia Estate when it comes out in the new year.
I have a late 98 Mondeo 88k miles with what I assume is the Ford CD4E autobox.
As far as I am aware it is the original box.
FFSH but I obviously do not know how it has been treated.
I intend to keep the car for some years.
Most comments from respected experts here are not very kind about this autobox.
So my questions about any autobox are:
Apart from checking the colour and level of the fluid, what else can I do to preserve it?
I am a gentle driver with most miles done in the urban areas.
No towing things.
What style of driving should I use?
What should I not do? I have a sport / normal button.
What are the signs of impending doom?
If the worst happens should I have it rebuilt or get an exchange box?
Read more
Try having the transmission fluid flushed, rather than just drained and replaced. If just draining and refilling, most of the fluid in the box stays where it is, and only about a third of it drains out. Flushing renews all the fluid, with no old fluid left to contaminate the nice new stuff. Transmission specialists offer this, and it is the proper way of changing the fluid.
Hi all,
My Ford Fiesta XR2i 1991 (H Reg) has recently, within the last week, been illuminating the oil warning light on the dash when the engine is running. I am confused as to what the problem may be.
The oil level is spot on where it should be, it is not burning oil as I reconditioned the cyclinder head in Aug with new stem seals and there is no smoke being burnt from the rear. However when I'm driving and accelerate/rev the engine hard the oil light is no longer illuminated until I let off the accelerator and return the engine to a lower rev and/or idle.
Any advise greatly appriciated.
Thanks
Steveo Read more
Perhaps try changing oil/filter, putting in a less viscous oil, such as a 5w or 10w40 and see if this makes a difference.
I was looking at some old Fords on e-bay and trying to remember some of the colours that were current around the time of the Cortina 1600E in the late sixties. Silver Fox, Blue Mink , Saluki Bronze come to mind. Then there was that metallic pink, was it Oyster ? Anyone help out? Read more
I had a MKIII Cortina in saluki bronze, or poo brown as everyone else called it.
Most reliable car I ever owned, seemed to have been constructed from bridge supports by superman.
Drove 100 miles down the motorway once with a strange banging noise coming from somewhere. Parked on my parents drive and the bonnet could be seem to be moving up and down. Turned out it was the heat from the engine, the radiator had holed outside my student digs and I had driven it all that way with no water in the radiator.
Happy days.
Browse
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They have the bike MOT manual on line now
www.motuk.co.uk/mcmanual_330.htm
The efficiency of each system operated by a single brake control is the ratio of the total retarding force generated by that system divided by the weight of the machine and rider
Reason to fail
a. an efficiency of less than 30% when one of the brake controls is operated. This will normally be calculated from the retarding force at either the front or the rear wheel, [see information column)
b. an efficiency of less than 25% when the other brake control is operated. This will normally be calculated from the retarding force at the other wheel (see information column).