August 2004
A work colleague has told me that the brake fluid level on his clio is below the minimum mark.
Am I correct in thinking this is *really* bad for the brake system or does that only apply when replacing fluid?
He's going to top it up at lunch but does the system need bleeding or something similar?
Thanks in advance
Paul Read more
Can you please make your suggestions for topics for future Back Room Polls either here in this thread, or email them to me at mailto:dave_moderator@honestjohn.co.uk?subject=Poll_Suggestions.
I'll choose the best ones for use.
Cheers, DD. Read more
When you refill your fuel tank, do you generally-
Brim it?
Stop at the first click?
Only put a certain ammount in?
Stop at the nearest pound or 50p after the first click?
An Other?
I've had a long standing problem with my M reg Rav 4 - leave it standing for a week and the battery goes flat. This sometimes causes great confusion to the alarm/immobiliser which then requires resetting, generally by the AA.
Having gone through the whole rigmarole once again, I still haven't identified the cause of the battery drain but I have needed to fit a new battery.
I'm now left with a new problem. Four times out of five, when I turn the ignition on the amber warning light doesn't come on (as it should) and the engine will crank but not fire. It seems much worse when the engine is cold.
Anybody experienced similar problems or got any bright ideas?
Thanks. Read more
Just noticed this morning that the radio channel display disappears and reverts to the date on my Vectra Multi-function Information Display. The radio is still functioning and I can change channels and volume using the remote controls but I cannot select the CD with either the remote control or button on the radio.
Turning the radio off and then on again allows the CD and display to operate. The display then reverts back to date. I did, however, notice a couple of other things: the display went off with the ignition switch although it should stay on until the key is removed; and the other was that the radio seemed OK when the ignition was turned to ACC and back to off.
Any ideas? I wondered about the ignition feed Read more
Back in 1998, I fitted an Alpine power amplifier to the radio cassette (no CD so not CCR600) in my Vectra V6 SRi Estate. To do this, I had to take the head unit out to tap in to the wires behind.
Despite a lot of care and a neat and tidy wiring job, after everything was put back in place the multi function display would sometimes play up in a manner similar to your description.
How did I solve it?
I took the head unit back out, and reaching up behind the multi function display, touched the connector gently (a few grammes force, no more) whilst the circuit was live. The display went haywire. I therefore removed the connector completely, and then placed it back (tricky, by feel only). From that point onwards, for the next three years that I had the car, there were no more problems with it.
Hopefully, what you have done is what I have just described, and it will do the job for you, too.
The car has done 220,000 miles on a G-plate and run great (except for the recent heater matrix leak, but this sounds quite common from reading the thread on here!). Thing is, the lad I bought it off told me to use Castrol Magnatech, which I did until just recently.
When the time came to change the oil, bearing in mind it seemed to be sporting a tad of tappet noise, my attention was grasped by this new "re-marketed- high milage" oil, also made by our friends at castrol. In an attempt to minimise any engine wear that i thought could have been caused by the Magnatech, I bought and filled my car with some of that stuff.
Now I have been to the website: www.chris-longhurst.com/carbibles/index.html?menu....l it tells me that you should never go to mineral oil when your car has been used to semi synth and vice versa.
So the dilema is; what do i do when the next oil change is due? Stick to the high milage or go back to the Magnatech?
Help.... Read more
Yes, I didn't express that very well. I was alluding to the apparent appeal of extended service (oil-change) intervals, in that manufacturers tend to feature them as a plus point when promoting new models. It could be that this is mainly targeted on fleet buyers, but I suspect that most motorists will assume that it is a good thing -- it must be a good thing because the manufacturers are boasting about it. Regulars on this board know different.
hi - had a bit of a smack today.
big eye-opener, in my 2001 acent, hit a lampost below 10mph. it has destroyed the bumper, grille and bonnet - all beyond repair.
Car still drives and mechanics are all working fine.
I can see why the car fails to get 2 star NCAP safety rating - death trap, however its a reliable death trap.
Anyhow, need a bumper, grille and bonnet for a y-plate model. colour aint to important as i can get it painted.
where is best to look?
are they easy enough to remove?
are they easy enough to install?
anything to watch out for?
as i said, the radiator hasnt been touched, neither has anything else. let me know, as i reckon if i can get the parts the job looks straight forward. Read more
Or perhaps not. Says it\'s for a 1994 to 1997 model Accent.
Might be worth ringing them though.
Can anyone help us please? We are looking for a car that will take three full child car seats (ie booster seats) across the back seat. We are thinking about a VW Touran, Ford CMax etc. (not a large MPV). Has anyone got any advice or experience of trying to find a car of this size that will take three such child seats?
Thanks! Ros Read more
Rented a Renault Scenic in France a few eeks ago. Apart from having a weird hand brake it is definitely set up for this sort of thing.
Not sure if I like the handbrake. I prefer a lever to pull on, but quite like it disengaging itself when you drive off.
The one I had was a dci but I think a 1.5 rather than 1.9
It's been so long that I posted on the forum that I forgot which e-mail address I used, as well as the password. Must be getting old.
I may be interested in a post 95 Rover 416 Auto.
Does anybody know:
1. When did Rover stop fitting the Honda engine & ATF?
2. Is the Tailgate hinge panel rust problem restricted to certain years? Can it be prevented?
3. Did Honda ever sort their problems with Igniter modules?
4. Is there anything else I should really really worry about?
Before you all leap on me and tell me about the problems with K series engines, I have absolutely no intention of ever buying anything with a K engine in it.
Thanks in advance
Mumbler (previously Mutterer) Read more
p.s. I would not turn my nose up at a 98/99 Astra, as long as it is the 1.6 or 1.8 16v petrol.
We have a large number of 1.6i 8V Autos for sale in the area (ex Motobility cars?) which I am told would not pull the skin of the proverbial rice pudding.
As one or two may have spotted I'm in the market for a new used car.
Being sensible I wanted to work out the insurance costs. It also made sense to start with my current insurer, Direct Line, as they were £150 cheaper than anyone else for my current cover. (I also like the business use they throw in).
Few details: 31 year old male, will have had licence 3 years as of 27/7/04. No points or convictions. Will have 1 years no claims at the end of September.
Using a start date of 30/8/2004 I requested some quotes on a Skoda Fabia 1.6 16v (Y reg, dealer price £5700).
licence period 2 years, no NCB £541.80
licence period 3(or more) years, no NCB £521.80
seems reasonable (more experience, lower quote).
licence period 2 years, 1 year NCB £580.65
licence period 3(or more) years, 1 year NCB £559.65
Whoa! I thought the idea of a no claims bonus was that it lowers the cost of insurance not put it up. I've done this with various cars and it's always the same - price goes up with NCB.
I didn't change any other options and there is no option to protect my NCB as you need 4 years NCB to have that option.
Any ideas as why the insurance price goes up by adding a no claims bonus.
Read more
There's something not quite right - as you say the higher the NCB the lower the premium should be nett.
Another important factor, which many people overlook, is your average annual mileage; not surprisingly, the more miles you cover the higher the premium for any particular quote.
Have you been using the Net or phone to obtain these quotes? If only the Net, try telephoning a company to see if they come up with similar quotes, first without and then with NCB taken into account.
Despite the comment above, insurance companies don't seek to rip people off in what is a highly competitive market - more often it's the other way round, which is why premiums are higher than they really should be.
Think of all those uninsured drivers, for instance, on our roads or those who try to squeeze more from an insurance claim then entitled.
Help needed please. Lately the passenger footwell keeps becoming wet. Radiator level remains constant and A/C cooling works o.k.. When heating fan is put on water can be heard sloshing about. Can't see anything obviously wrong. I take it that water is getting into the ventilation ducting somehow but I can't see where. Thank you in anticipation, Paul. Read more
Thank you to you for your help. The water is coming in through the passenger footwell heater vent especially when the air conditioning is on. It is as if the drain from the evaporator may be a little blocked. Some drips appear on the drive under the car but the rest comes through the vent as above. I have tried to "rod" the drain line but with no success. Does anyone know if the black plastic box that has the drain line attached to it comes off easily or is it a major job. Thank you.
Browse
If it's just low as in the reservoir is not up to MAX, then that's OK, just top p, but if the reservoir is empty, air could have been drawn into the system, and so it should be bled.