I pup a similar query on the board a couple of weeks ago. I traced my leak to the boot seal. When the car is parked nose down on a slope a pool of water collects at the front corners of the boot channel. if the seal has been knocked then water can get under the seal and run down behind the trim and find its way to the front. I removed the boot seal and used Wicks central heating system leak preventer as I did not have any other silicone sealer. It worked a treat. Refit the real and crimp it slightly around the corners and it should work.

As for someone suggesting the C5 and picasso, neither have got

good reviews from what I see.

This is the usual reaction to any recommendation for Citroens. However, I think you will find that HJ was quite taken with the auto Picasso. The Picasso has been well received since its introduction and is generally rated as one of the best MPVs.

People who own Citroens for any length of time, often find out that they are on to a good thing. There is a current thread initiated by someone who wants to get back to a C5, after having replaced it with a Focus, which he has decided doesn't match up to his experience of the C5. It is a much underrated car.

>>Yanmar should be so insistent that their marine diesels must be idled for 5 minutes, on pain of severe damage

Aren't Yanmar Japaneese...I suspect the handbook for this engine was written using Japaneese English and they mean idle for a few seconds.

I don't think you can deduce anything until you are certain that the clutch is adjusted correctly. This is a matter of reading the book and setting cable length, lever stops, pedal movement, or whatever method it says.
You can then test to see whether the clutch is really freeing off or not. You should be able to feel the point at which the clutch pedal first starts to operate the clutch itself, rather than just taking up slack in the linkage. There should till be plenty of floor space under the pedal for actually disengaging the clutch. Try it at idling speed and see whether there is any tendency for the gear to crunch. If it crunches even after pausing a second or two it suggests a dragging clutch.
If that is OK, you can try it on the move at increasing speeds. A crunching when moving suggests the synchro cone is wearing. If that is the only fault you can live without it. Or you could practice helping the synchro action with a throttle blip in neutral.
When I was learning with a car with no synchro on first gear I was taught to double-declutch from 4th into 1st as a way of appreciating the inter-relation of engine and road speeds in different gears.

When the driver in front has signalled that he intends to turn right and you can overtake him on the left without getting in the way of others and without entering a bus lane during its period of operation.

When you want to turn left at a junction.

In one-way streets ( but not dual carriageways ) where vehicles may pass on either side.

Where there are 'Double white' lines along the road between you and the lane to the right, the line nearer to you is solid and both traffic streams are moving in the same direction.

When using marked traffic lanes and wishing to pass a tram -- but not a stationary tram at a tram stop where there is no tram stop island.

When traffic is moving slowly in queues, and vehicles in a lane on the right are moving more slowly than you are.

When traffic is moving slowly in queues, you may move to a lane on your left only in order to turn left or to park.
Do not change lanes to the left in order to overtake.

Courtesy of: www.arcotect.com/roadguide/eng/48.html

Here's some comprehensive (sometimes funny) roundups about rules of the road:

www.bbc.co.uk/dna/h2g2/A412930

www.safespeed.org.uk/

By the way, a new BMW recall has just been announced. All 3, 5 and 7 Series owners have been advised to have their indicators (both sides) completely replaced as virtually all of them are not working.