March 2004
Hi,
I had my Land Rover 90 written off last November, and am looking for a car which can pull an one-ton boat up a very steep pier from standstill. I've tried it in a '88 BMW 730 manual, and almost burnt the clutch out.
So I want a used car a transfer box - preferably not a heavy 4*4 again. The choice seems to be a Subaru or Audi Allroad (too expensive).
BUT - these cars don't have the low gearing I need. The following are the reduction ratios for two 'heavy' 4*4's and the Subaru, multiplied together to the 'TOTAL' number. This is the number of engine revolutions required to make the rear axle turn once, in low 1st.
1st gear Transfer box Differential TOTAL
LR90 3.71 3.32 3.54 44
Mitsubishi Shogun4.00 2.00 4.60 37
Subaru Forester 3.50 1.20 4.10 17
As you can see, the Land Rover has really deep gearing (44:1). The Subaru is the same as my former BMW (17:1), and that didn't have a transfer box!
So - do I need another heavy 4*4 or am I missing something?
I had the LR 9 years (in Europe, Africa, Asia) but am now in London and think its silly to have one here.
Regards,
Tim
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www.designnews.com/contents/pdf/DN040315sensorsupp...0
Not for me thanks Regards Peter Read more
MEMS are useful for many applications, and if a form of bluetooth or similar single chip radio ever becomes cost effective and easy to design in then there are definate possibilities for many more applications using MEMS sensors.
A MEMS sensor is just a simple switch. Unfortunately the contacts are rarely more than a micron apart so any ingress will cause failure. The other problem is that unless the switch is operated regularly it will seize. This tends to make them unsuitable for critical applications. I was very surprised to see them used for an airbag deployment system.
The problem that everyone but a very few experts forget to mention about MEMS is that unless they are in a hermetic package to keep out all possible ingress then problems will occur with reliability. Hermetic packaging is expensive and due to its nature, I can't see prices falling that much in teh future.
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I read often, only post occasionally
About 6 months ago there was a thread about fabric/carpet protection for new cars. One of the products mentioned was a Teflon product available from Halfords for about £12.00 I've just seen a Simoniz Teflon upholstery and carpet care kit for £3.95 at Boyes (stores in NE England) if anybody is buying a new car and wants to treat it. I managed to get something from B&Q at the time for about £7.00, but grabbed a pack of the above for re-treatment if required
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That's a good price. RRP is £10.99.
www.holtsauto.com/news/index.html
I have a 1995 306 Diesel Turbo. Yesterday the blower and heated rear window stopped working. When I eventually found the supply feed to both these relays (BB2) it reads only 3.5v. Obviously not enough to energise the relays. I checked the other side of the ignition switch and this is at the same voltage so I guess it's not that.
I traced the wire back to the control unit (near the battery) and found 12v at that end so I guess there must be a bad connection or fault in the wire between this and the ignition switch.
My next plan is to check the bulkhead connector (behind the wiper motor) to see whether this is the problem or at least narrow down the fault.
Has anyone else experienced this and if so what was the problem?
Thanks,
Slow Coach Read more
Yep, another common Pug / Cit failing! The blower and HRW pull their current across the ignition switch which is not man enough for the job and burns out. The solution is to put a relay in, switched by the igition switch, to carry the current. Even a partially burnt switch should provide enough voltage to throw a relay. Not sure of the exact details for the 306, but on the Xantia there is a separate plug under the steering column you can unplug and wire in the relay - possibly the same on the 306.
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RichardW
Is it illogical? It must be Citroen....
Hi all.
Just thought I'd recount an incident from the commute home last night around J10 of the M42 and invite some comments.
I was doing the normal 70 mph and came into a 50mph zone as a result of roadworks, so upon seeing the warning signs around 800 yards, gradually reduced my speed so that by the time I was in roadworks I'd be doing 50. Went through said road works fine, and then when the national speed limit resumed, I started to gradually accelerate back up to 70 mph. All of this driving was in the left hand lane (2 lane Mway). As I am doing so, a van in the right lane is giving me all kind of gestures from behind.
He was going through the 50 zone at 70 so he interpreted my acceleration as a sign that I did not wish to be overtaken.
So should I have waited for said van to have overtaken me before accelerating or was I OK to have done what I did, given that I was only going slower at that point due to the speed restriction? Both weather conditions and visibilty were fine.
Life is too short and precious to worry over being overtaken on a road, so I can honestly say that my intention was not to make a point to the van driver.
Cheers all.
TT Read more
Andrew T - I'm talking about a flat,level stretch of about 4 miles before we get to the hilly bit. This was just someone who had no respect for the law. He'd passed me well before the hill, exceeded the limit to build his speed but then it dropped as he climbed.
Is there anyone out there who knows whether i can get an electronic ignition/contactless ignition of my Rascal van? I am of the understanding that this would mean i can get rid of the current Points set up. They need adjusting so often and someone has mentioned about this. Read more
Agree with biffo.what happens is the screws that hold the points to the distributer base plate stretch to the point that they only hold for a short space of time.replacing with the electronic version replaces the points with with a unit that is infra red controlled (I think) an adapter is used beneath the rotor arm that crosses the points of infra red transmision and caused the coil to fire.it works I have used the system on 4 toyota vans.all still going
A mate of mine has got a 325i '86, fully loaded and owned from new.
The computer has packed up once and been replaced with a s/h one. Now gone the same way as the first unit ant the car wont run. Anyone know of a company or person who could sort it at prehaps component level rather than junking the whole box of tricks. Anyone here with knowledge of these engine management systems- replies appreciated.
Thanks.Tel. Read more
could try
www.bba-reman.com/index.htm
My starter - the Ford Escort 1.3 "Bonus" circa 1990
This car didn't even have a five speed box but it did have black paint, white hubcaps and a rear wash wipe.
Any improvements on this in terms of either : more inappropriately named or miserable equipment levels? Read more
Plus about £200... ;)
I have recently bought a Mk2 jaguar. Went to insure it and pleasently supprised to find it only cost me £90.This makes running an old classic all the more enjoyable.I suppose i will be paying for it with the fuel though.
Roll on the summer.
Dave. Read more
Love Capris.
>>Watch the tail in the wet
Which is fairly easy since its normally in front of you 8-)
Just seen one of them cars it states you can get 70 mpg of them & only need a motor bike licence, with the increase of traffic congestion of larger cars would it not be a good idea if we all hire out the cars for work and use the larger ones when needed ie holiday trips or shopping tips Read more
We have loads of fifty cc micros in Spain. They may be driven without a licence or test as they are classed as motor scooters under 50cc
They are absolutely diabolical machines as they are driven either by kids of 14 or incompetent pensioners and have a maximum speed of about 30 mph. Dangerous doesn\'t begin to describe them!
Roger.
Browse
An executive-sized RWD automatic will be fine, the auto only uses clutches to change between different gear-sets, they don't takeup the drive, this is done with hydraulic fluid, so as long as you change the ATF every so often it should be fine.