December 2003
I have been advised by the dealer that the additional (basic, not remote) key I am considering buying will have to be programmed by them before use to make work the imobiliser. Is this a dealer-only activity or is it possible to do this myself? Read more
Hiya...
Some kind soul told me both my rear lights were blown last night. As far as I can tell, the reverse, brake and fog lights still work but even after replacing both rear light bulbs, they don\'t work.
Any ideas before it gets dark again please? I can\'t avoid driving tonight.
Thank you! Read more
It would be helpful to know what age of Polo as this is a very old thread, I think the OP's was a MK4
I saw some "Night Before" deicer on sale in Halfords.
But couldn't you get the same effect by spraying some normal deicer on the windscreen the night before a sharp frost?
Or is there a "special ingredient" in NightBefore deicers?
Mike Read more
A black bin-liner on the windscreen works for me on the rare occasions when the car is not put in the garage.
It is re-usable and eco-friendly, and can even be used for storage!
My 1994 L reg Passat has just been in for an MOT and failed due to there being "no pattern" on one of the headlamps (NSF). Apparently the light just difuses everywhere.
The mechanic suggested that this can happen if the bulb is inserted upside down, but having had a look it is impossible to put the bulb in the wrong way.
I called the mechanic and told him this and he said that the only way to rectify the problem was to fit a complete new headlamp at a cost of £50 or so for the part. His reasoning was that the pattern on the glass had worn away.
Is this possible - it sounds a little unlikely to me but if anyone out there knows a bit more about it than me I would be grateful for some advice.
It may be worth mentioning that the bulbs in both headlamps do not sit securely in their mountings under the spring clips - could this be causing the problem? Presumably either the wrong bulbs are fitted or the spring clips are past their prime.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Simo. Read more
Reminds of a time I had to make one of these clips from piano wire, after the old one burned! I ws changing the bulb on a Mazda at night, and had the headlights on so I could see, boucing the light of myself.
I know you aren't meant to but I was careful, somehow, the clip shorted out, and a white flash and red hot sparks shot from the back of the lamp, and the alternator nearly stopped the engine. There was nothing left of the clip, Mazda wanted £270 for a new headlamp - idiots
Hi.
I think I have found a 306 xsi which I want to buy. Does anyone know whether a slightly stiff clutch is a problem? I know the clutch cable goes next to the exhaust so could it be a problem? Also the gearbox feels a bit notchy, but not that bad.
It is a 98S - 56k miles. FSH etc.
Any thoughts?
Thanks very much Read more
My daughter had a 306TD and her clutch got stiffer and stiffer till the cable was replaced because it dried out being next to the exhaust. This was at approx. 40k miles.
Autumnboy
Does anybody know how to open up the key in order to replace the battery on a skoda key/remote control ?
I'm proceeding with care, as the last time I replaced a Vag key it cost me £35 !
Bora - what Bora ? Read more
Bear, ir's best to assume that a thread whose latest post is 12 years old is well and truly dead. None of the posters seems to be around any more, though I dimly remember some of the names.
Why not ask your question in a new thread?
I have a 5 door turbo diesel on a P plate and am about to embark on the job of replacing the radiator.
I have the rad and 2 packs of O rings from B & Q and would like to hear from anyone who has done 1 before.
In the Backroom Archive there is a mention of the radiator bottom connection hose, fingers like ET and strength needed.
Any advice for a smooth, stress free change over would help me. Read more
Further info. re the 405 diesel radiator with bayonet hose clips. Hint for easier job. Tie back top retaining spring levers as already listed previously by drilling two small holes in the plastic cross member above the grille and using tie wraps to pull back and secure the spring clips as far back as possible. Jack up and remove front off side wheel. Remove the tie wraps and screws holding the off side lower inner wing valance which covers the timing belts and lower rad. hose. The hose from rad to block now hangs clear and is very accessible. Cut through hose at center and rad can be removed. Fit to new rad off car and feed back through steel loop adjacent to lower timing pulleys on return as you lower the radiator. Join the cut ends with 30mm tubing ( about 75mm length is ample and fasten with 30-40mm jubilee clips. The saves the almost impossible tasks of removing and refitting the bayonet and spring clamp fittings in situ. Finally replace the lower plastic valance and replace the tie wraps to keep the hose away from the timing pulleys. This makes the job of rad replacement comparatively simple (but still very painful!). Phil Waltham.
{Please stop quoting the message you're replying to in full. Snip and summarise the text, and preferably put it before you start writing your reply}
What causes brakes to squeak? My Focus (7k miles) has slightly squeaky brakes and I\'d be keen to get rid of it before it gets worse. The front discs seem to have a little bit of rust on them but certainly no worse than my old Polo did and they never squeaked! What are the major causes?
Thanks Read more
If rears are making a noise. It\'s normally because the brake dust is getting trapped in between the brake shoe and brake drum. what happens is the dust from shoe gets trapped and while wheel is turning vibrates causing the same or similar from disc same difference really. something you may hear from buses as they pass you. what it needs is a clean out getting rid of all dust in the drums, correct me if wrong, but that is normally the case. let me know
Hello....me again :-)
Last week I was driving down the M58 on the way home at around 3pm. I don't know if any of you are familiar with this particular motorway but it's the quietest one I've ever been on - made redundant I suspect because of the East Lancashire Road. Anyhow, as I was driving, I saw the matrix signs which displayed 50. Not wanting to get points on my licence, I slowed to 50 which on a motorway is unbelievably slow. After a few miles and not seeing anything (crash or traffic jam) another sign said 30. Needless to say, doing 50 had angered many other people as they passed me at high speeds although probably only 70mph. I stayed at 30 for about two minutes when after 4 trucks overtook me, I gave up and accelerated to a yobbish 40mph on a clear, otherwise safe motorway on which traffic was still overtaking me. By the time I left the motorway, I was 30 minutes late and locking the doors as I got anfry looks from drivers. However, upon accidently stumbling on a previous thread, it has been mentioned that these speed limits shown on the matrix boards are advisory unless they are encompassed in a red cirlce in which case they are compulsory. Is this true? I am ashamed for not knowing myself but these speed limits were obviously out of date as from the moment I passed the first 50mph limit sign till the very end of the motorway, there was nothing. No roadworks, jams or crashes. Are these signs legal speed limits? It's just that in that particular case, it would have appeared to have been detrimental to myself if I were to do 30mph on a motorway (judging by the other driver's faces)
Many thanks and sorry for the long posting
Adam. Read more
One morning this spring I was driving up the M25 anti-clockwise to catch a flight from Luton airport. Having passed the Dartford tunnel there were suddenly a series of matrix signs saying "M25 closed at J24" (or something like that). Oh well, good I was leaving a lot of time, will just have to go the North Circular instead - so off I went down the A12, via the NCR and out the A1/M1... and needless to say it all took longer...
and longer...
and longer...
but I did catch the flight! with about 5 mins to spare. And it was only a short trip so the shortstay P fees weren't too bad.
Now the moral of the story is of course that the M25 was not closed at all, but it took until I had nearly regained the M1 (was at this point stuck in the NCR permanent jam down to Henly's corner) before the radio managed to say anything about the false message on the matrix signs.
If I had missed the flight, I could potentially have lost a major business opportunity. Although of course, nothing is guaranteed in terms of travel time (and therefore, I had left myself three hours to drive about 100 miles, almost all of it on motorway, plus the hour to check in), surely somebody must be liable for putting up completely fraudulent information on these signs?
(I'm not so worried about the frequently occurring "SLOW DOWN CONGESTION AFTER NEXT JUNCTION" signs after J8, at 5 in the morning. I have learnt to filter those out, now.)
Hi,
Have 1998 Scenic 1.9dti with IR remote immobiliser. Sometimes the immobiliser won't respond to remote and takes a few tries (remote presses) before immobiliser light goes out and it can be started. The doors and interior lights lock/unlock/work as normal with each remote click, so the remote seems to be working and the car is recognising the signal. Just not resetting the immobiliser. The strange thing is, when the car does start it has reset the clock and trip odometer and the radio key-code has to be re-entered.
Every now and then when returning to car it is 'dead' to remote unlocking - no door unlocking/locking or sign that the remote is doing anything. If you open the door with key it will eventually allow the remote to disable the immobiliser after turning the ignition key a few times and/or clicking the remote a bunch of times.
These effects happen at 'random' in different locations so I don't think it's IR interference(?)
I don't have a spare keyfob to try (£150 each!) but will get one if needed. I'll get a new battery for existing one, but I don't think the remote is the problem.
Anyone had a similar experience with megane/scenic? I just know a dealer will fail to find this intermittent fault, but it's going to strand me or my wife at some point miles from anywhere...
Any advice much appreciated.
Ta! Read more
Just stumbled on this thread, My laguna imobilser light came on once when driving..............the car still drove, and drove me back home again....only did it once worked fine ever since (touch wood) my mate had a ford Ka though and the Iommbilzer kicked in @ 70mph down a busy motorway, he pulled over restarted and drove away..... i dread the day that is going to happen to me
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1983 (A) Vauxhall Astra 1.3L
1993 (K) Vauxhall Cavalier 2.0i GLS
1999 (T) Renault Laguna 1.6
Even if you have no keys with a working beeper bit you can still have a transponder key programed by a good auto locksmith. A focus like my aunts w reg has exactly the same key locking system as a s plate mondeo i had. I know a locksmith in dartford that can supply a new key, beeper bit, and program it to the car for about £80 all in.