December 2003
I am replacing the drivers window (manual) on my sons 106, probably next week (after some lowlifes broke it on Christmas evening for him). I haven't seen the Hanes manual yet, but presume it is quite straightforward. Therefore my question is , does anybody know of any pitfalls, or have any good tips. If my recall is acurate, last time that I took the door panel off, i couldn't work out how the window winder handle came off. Does anybody know?
In anticipation.
Reggie Read more
Re. recently acquired 1990 (H) 1.1 Fiesta fitted with carburettor.
My garage is attached to the house and when the car is parked overnight there's a fairly strong smell of petrol in the garage, which would permeate to the house if the interconnecting door was left ajar.
It's been serviced by a qualified and trusted mechanic who wasn't able to find any particular problem and could only suggest changing the unit for another.
It's not a visible leak from the carb or associated pipework. It's not the petrol filler cap. It seems that if you remove the air cleaner and sniff the top of the carb it smell's quite strong, but maybe you would expect that. I'm told there are no washers etc. to change within the carb.
Run out of ideas.......anyone come across this before?
Be grateful for any suggestions (other than leaving the window open or parking in the street).
KB. Read more
That would be down to angle of the pipe to fuel tank. obviously a vacuum.Yes a sealed fuel system the container could be carbon canister.if blocked would cause probs.I did mention before the breather is built into filler cap ie split into separate part`s.I could be wrong from what you say it`s more likely to be the pipe from carb it may look Ok that don`t mean a thing you need to take it off.and check it fully as some split`s occur from inside as well as out?
I have recently bought a 15 month old BMW 330D. (36,000 motorway miles)
I have noted that according to the service book the car has had oil changes every 14,000 miles...
Being of the old school with regards to changing engine oil I immediately contacted several BMW main dealers..They all assured me it was ok to leave the servicing so long as they use \"special longlife Castrol SLX oil\".. It is a SAE 0-40 which appears to have the viscosity of dishwater (Very expensive dishwater as I need almost 7 litres of it).
My previous car was a Golf Mk IV Tdi (110bhp) which I used to put Millers fully synthetic in every 5,000 miles (twice as often as VW recommended).
I e mailed Millers themselves to ask about using there Fully synthetic diesel specific oil every 6,000 miles in the BMW and was told to use the Fully synthetic Petrol engine oil in my particular car..
Basically I want to know what is so special about the BMW 3 litre Diesel that Millers synthetic diesel specific oil cannot be used..
Also would you please advise me which oil you would use and at what intervals.
I have to confess I am more than a little worried after reading past comments about Turbo damage etc on this particular engine.
In anticipation I thank you for any help you can offer me.
Regards,
Simon Speed Read more
Could be down to lack of knowledge what has been done before is normal.There is the problem that manufacturer`s say one thing and it won`t work.I am not saying that it applie`s to all.but it doe`s seem strange that a lot will stick to what they know rather than change.I cannot see that changing for a while
I have a 1996 Passat estate.Recently i have heard whilst driving at low speed a sound similar to a worn wheel bearing from the rear.At motorway speed the sound can not be heard but there is a vibration through the floor pan,steering wheel and pedals.
After half an hour on the motorway the vibration makes my foot numb!.
I changed the rear wheel bearings and had the tyre\'s balanced and the alignment re-done.This made no difference to the noise or vibration.
My local VW garage have suggested that the rear tyre\'s are \"out of round\".I have never heard of this and £110 for two new tyres is not what i want for christmas.
Has any body heard of this before? Read more
Everyone THINKS front o/s for me, but it's hard to tell
Does anybody in the B.R. have a ball park figure to put against the value of continuing with the main dealer servicing after the 3 year warranty period has expired on a quality marque on its eventual retail value, as opposed to switching to a quality independent servicing outlet.
Is a full main dealer history really worth it or not ????? Read more
local Citroen specialist ... has lost my service book !
Forest,
Surely your dealer is in a position to create a duplicate service history record. Speaking from BMW experience, details of what was done at what mileage is held on computer record and a duplicate book can be authorised and duly stamped.
Oz (as was)
A changeof role at work means I will start doing 40,000 miles a year mainly in Kent and Sussex. I have an A4 1.8T (wish I'd chosen the 6 speed 1.9TDI now) and whilst I don't drive like a loon I do need rapid progress where it is safe.
My first week tells me that speed cameras and plod with a hairdryer are everywhere! So, time to invest in a detector.
Whilst I can read about them elsewhere, can anyone offer some advice based on their own experience ? What to buy, what to pay, what it will/won't detect and if it needs updating.
Also, how much does a speeding fine cost e.g. 48 in a 40 limit ?
Help really appreciated. Thanks. Read more
Perhaps he couldn't get back to the nick?
I have a Peug 307 Dturbo 2.0 HDi with 10k on the clock. The main reason for purchase is that I drive a lot of miles in France.
Peugeot claim 40 mpg urban, 67 - extra urban, 54 combined.
I am very disappointed with my car\'s performance and have been monitoring very carefully. On Motorways at an indicated 80 mph I achieve less than 40 mpg. If I drive generally at 60-65 and never go above 70mph I just about achieve 48-49mpg. I have not been using cruise control.
I don\'t think it\'s my driving - my previous car was a 306 DT and that achieved 50 mpg and their extra urban claim was 54 mpg.
Are these figures typical? What are you achieving? I\'m not getting much change out of local Peug distributor and I would like some evidence!
thanks
PeteP Read more
Petep, and other pug 307 owners,
I've just recently read a readers letter in this months CSMA Motoring and Leisure magazine.
Apparantly the trip meter and the milometer on a Pug 307 record different values, ie, reset the trip to zero, drive 100 miles and the mileometer will actually record approx 120 miles.
The reader said that Peugeot UK are aware of the problem on certain 307's and that their technicians were working on the problem but as yet have not come up with a solution.
Could this be the reason you think you're getting poor mpg, purely because you've done your calculations using the trip meter readout and not the milometer?
I have a '98 A6 with the 2.5 V6 TDI engine, with about 150,000 miles on the clock.
For some time, the engine has been difficult to start from cold, requiring several seconds of turning-over before it starts to catch. I have to continue to crank the engine for a further 1/2 second before enough cylinders are firing for the engine to run properly. There is often a brief cloud of whitish smoke after the engine fires. Once running, the car performs fine and it starts from warm perfectly.
All but 1 of the glow plugs are the original factory fitted items so I am considering getting all 6 renewed to try and improve starting.
However, my local (non-franchise) VW/Audi specialist is not particularly keen to replace the glow plugs on this engine as they have had several instances where they have snapped while trying to remove them, which then becomes a major job to drill out the plug.
Can anyone tell me
a) is it definitely worth changing all 6 glow plugs at this mileage as preventative maintenance? (i.e. is it likely to improve my starting problem)
b) does anyone know any 'tricks' as to how to get them out in one piece?
Dave Read more
I do know of glow plug 'snappages' on some engines but not had one go myself.....yet!
I'd give them a good soak with releasing fluid on a hot engine to aid removal. I reckon you'll be fine.
Given the V6 engine configuration, this could well be a tricky job...just set aside some time and don't rush the job, OK?
Let us know how you get on.
--
groups.msn.com/honestjohn/problems.msnw?Page=1 - Pictures say a thousand words.....
A4 owner (1.8 1997) got in touch with me regarding a problem with his climate control. The stepper motors had stopped moving (not good at this time of year). Audi dealer charged him £75 to look at fault codes and told him ECU was U/S. £700 P+L repair estimate.
He got a secondhand ECU for £80, connected it up and it too didn't work.
I had a look at the secondhand unit's PCB and found three dry joints where the ribbon cable goes to the control keys. Reflowed the joints and, hey-presto, it works.
Looked at the other (original) faulty ECU and it had the exact same problem. It too was repaired. He's keeping it as a spare!
Obviously a common problem and worth A4 owners remembering it. Read more
Thanks a lot for that. My aircon is still working, if a bit dodgily, but when I have a bit of time and the weather is better I'll have that box out and take it along to one of the local people who have a small workshop and do that kind of thing.
I have a 99 1.7TD Astra - the pistons have gone oval and need replacing - I'm being quoted between £2000 - £2800 for the work. Would it be cheaper to put in a reconditioned engine instead - how much should this cost and wheres a good place to get it done?
I cant afford to get rid of the car.
Read more
I personaly have never accepted a full service history.Various reasons I have no doubt most will know why.But I will not question those that do.And for most it is up to them.I don`t intend explaining myself.I know most buy a car due to this.But have never found it conclusive evidence the car is well looked after/serviced correctly? I think that beggs the question is fsh worth the paper.?
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Hiya
My Peugot 106 drivers window has lost it's runner/retaining clip that goes in the hole in the glass, I think it disintegrated when I tried to wind it down in the frost, it's not inside the door or anywhere.
I was wondering where you might have got a replacement for yours (your sons) or what you used instead. I'm currently using a piece of hard tubing but it tends to start to pull out at the top.
I guess the original is oblong/rectangular to distribute the 'pull' on it.
Sorry to take up your time
and thanks if you can help.
dg