I have a 5 door turbo diesel on a P plate and am about to embark on the job of replacing the radiator.
I have the rad and 2 packs of O rings from B & Q and would like to hear from anyone who has done 1 before.
In the Backroom Archive there is a mention of the radiator bottom connection hose, fingers like ET and strength needed.
Any advice for a smooth, stress free change over would help me.
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Dont forget to bleed the system of all air locks, needs an extended header tank made out of a suitable sized container.Middle man has posted a complete guide some time ago in technical matters i think
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Replace original hose connections with jubilee clips, they are a lot easier to get back on.To prime ststem you will need to make a header tank of about 1 litre capacity that is a push fit into the header tank, and run the engine till the fans kick in.Its all in the Haynes manual, which on this job I could\'t fault. If I remember right there are 3 bleed valves on the system for the removal of air.
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There should be tons on the net about this its a really common problem
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I\'d entrust this work to a dealer; the bayonet hose connections are an absolute pink fluffy dice to remove & refit. Typically French!
Conversion to conventional hose stubs is impossible IMO....
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groups.msn.com/honestjohn - Pictures say a thousand words.....
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My 405 2 litre petrol has these radiator connections. I could not get enough grip on the offside bayonet connection to loosen it so I disconnected the other end of the hose (on the water pump)and lifted out the radiator whith the hose attached. The bayonet connections are easy to disconnect / reconnect once out of the car because you can grip them properly and see what you are doing at the same time.
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My 405 2 litre petrol has these connections. When replacing the radiator, I could not disconnect the offside hose so I disconnected the other end (by the water pump). Once out of the car, the connections are easy to release / reconnect!
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Sorry for the duplicate post - I thought the first had failed!
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Hose clips, pain dans la derriere,had to use mole grips.
Released the one from the pipe on the top of rad from the engine, the smaller one below was a right chore, released electrical block on top r/h side which was secured by a clip which has fallen somewhere. Cut a cable tie to move fan paping to one side, bottom hose bayonet type managed to release after trying to go anti clocwise, when you are under it looking at the back its needs to be turned toward you. Haynes diagrams good as they are you can't get your hands around the pipe.
Rad is off the clips, coolant switch has yet to be unscrewed from rad, and another hose clip to tackle and possible cable tie. There is just too much going on at the bottom of the L/H corner to work in, if the bumper could come off without too much effort then a better chance tackling it from both sides. IMO I am thinking even though its expensive its best to take it a Peugeot dealer, I might have to tow it there and ask them to fit my rad I'll try to release whats left, gone to far to turn back.
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Heh, I did tell you, didn't I!
Be thankful you don't have air-con! That complicates the matter 75%.....need I say any more?
The person(s) who designed that bayonet hose-fixing needs shooting!
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groups.msn.com/honestjohn - Pictures say a thousand words.....
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I remember the trouble I had when I last did my rad.
The lower bayonet connector snapped on removal, and it was a Sunday and I needed my car for the following day. I improvised my own securing mechanism using tie clips!
I had one tie clip going around the neck of the hose (before bayonet connector, and a similar around the neck of the rad outlet. The bayonet pipe and rad were then brought together and the two cylindrical tie clips secured using further lateral tie clips (which were used to pull the two ends together. This was intended to be a stop gap measure! 4 years on and its never leaked, and it was a doddle to secure.
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I too snapped the bayonet clip, bought the new hose had to take the wheel of to fit complete hose, another hard to get at and off spring clip.
Struggling with the bayonet hose to rad connection only 5mm and its there home, thought it was the wrong positioning of the O ring or misalinement of the notches,just can't get the forks over, when I did it was because I'd moved the O ring further onto the hose.
All connected, started to fill up, guess where it started to leak from, yes the bayonet connection.
Relegated to travelling by bus till I can connected properly.
£115 to fit hose (£18) with 3 ltrs of anti-freeze when? next week, cheers! merry f-ing Xmas Pugeot dealer.
Someone advise me about coolant, is de-ionised water and anti-freeze the coolant or is there more to it?
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Sounds like you have had a lot to contend with.
Dont give in to a Pug dealer now!
Yes coolant= deionised water+pure coolant (50/50).
I believe pug 306 takes 9 litres from empty.
I would test it with tap water first, if no leaks, then drain and add the costly stuff!
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Overcome the O ring problem at the bayonet end on the new hose but whilst trying to get the old hose off from the pump end I broke the plastic hose snub, superglued it back on and got the hose on over it with the almighty tricky spring clip.
Filled the system,header tank, fan kicking in, no leaks, took it for a spin OK.
This morning 3/4s the way to work and the weakest part went, coolant lost, Roadside Recovery out, taken to a Peugeot garage.
I won the battle but victory was stolen from me.
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Bread in the backside - whatever next??
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Shame......oh well at least you tried!
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groups.msn.com/honestjohn/problems.msnw?Page=1 - Pictures say a thousand words.....
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A word to the wise replacing a radiator on a Peugeot 306 (1997 old shape).
Removing the lower front grill will give you better access to the hose connection from Hell (bottom o/s) and also allow you easier access to the switch connector on the front aswell.
3 hours minimum with the help of a strong friend!! Good luck...
(P.S The connection from Hell is a bayonet fitting with a clip above and below the hose that needs to be wedged open with a couple of screw drivers and I used a couple of ratchet extenders against the side of the engine bay wall to get the leverage to use a large screw driver to separate the large hose from the radiator - accessed from under the car - then just wiggle and pull the rad to the n/s whilst a mate pulls the connection/hose to the o/s)
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probably not much help now but,
the later phase3 style rad hose was a different design that was easier to fit and is fitable to earlier models.
easiest way to do bayonet fixing is to remove the hose from the car completely (2 clips under drivers wheel arch, spring clip behind block and bayonet fixing.) then fit the hose and o ring to the radiator (check angle by comparing hose to holes in chassis), tip the rad on an angle and hold the pipe up, put some water in to check the joint doesn't leak. if alls well then you can refit the rad and with some bending and manipulation you can feed th pipe back throught the holes in the chassis whilst keepin it connected at the bayonet end. then replace the spring clip with a jubilee clip.
chris
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I have a 5 door turbo diesel on a P plate and am about to embark on the job of replacing the radiator.
I have the rad and 2 packs of O rings from B & Q and would like to hear from anyone who has done one before.
In the Backroom Archive there is a mention of the radiator bottom connection hose fingers like ET and strength needed. Any advice for a smooth stress free change over would help me.
Any reason why you quoted the entire first post without comment - PU
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What an awful job and one of the numerous silly points that have marred this otherwise quite exceptional vehicle (405 2 litre turbo diesel estate). I found it useful to drill two 5mm dia holes in the plastic cross member above the radiator and front assembly immediately above the top spring clips and tie the clips back with tie wraps. This made at least one part of the job much easier. Otherwise follow the excellent hints given on this page and the best of luck in this gruelling battle to accomplish what should be a simple and straightforward job. PhilFW.
SNIPQUOTE!
Edited by Dynamic Dave on 27/07/2008 at 12:55
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Further info. re the 405 diesel radiator with bayonet hose clips. Hint for easier job. Tie back top retaining spring levers as already listed previously by drilling two small holes in the plastic cross member above the grille and using tie wraps to pull back and secure the spring clips as far back as possible. Jack up and remove front off side wheel. Remove the tie wraps and screws holding the off side lower inner wing valance which covers the timing belts and lower rad. hose. The hose from rad to block now hangs clear and is very accessible. Cut through hose at center and rad can be removed. Fit to new rad off car and feed back through steel loop adjacent to lower timing pulleys on return as you lower the radiator. Join the cut ends with 30mm tubing ( about 75mm length is ample and fasten with 30-40mm jubilee clips. The saves the almost impossible tasks of removing and refitting the bayonet and spring clamp fittings in situ. Finally replace the lower plastic valance and replace the tie wraps to keep the hose away from the timing pulleys. This makes the job of rad replacement comparatively simple (but still very painful!). Phil Waltham.
{Please stop quoting the message you're replying to in full. Snip and summarise the text, and preferably put it before you start writing your reply}
Edited by Dynamic Dave on 30/07/2008 at 11:16
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