February 2003
Hello Folks,
Lots in the archive about these people. Most of it not good.
Here's something else...
Leaking radiator on XM. New 40K ago. Nope, not covered. "Wear and tear." Corrosion, they say. (how else can a radiator fail?)
Spheres. Ruptured membranes rather than slow loss of performance. Nope. Wear and tear.
My Cit specialist is puzzled as to how the only way for the item to fail (corrosion, component failure) is not covered.
With both these issues, it is "clear" in the small (and large) print that they are covered. I checked this out at length before paying out for the cover.
But only on /their/ terms. (i.e. not at all.??)
It seems that the issue is "sudden failure of a part" It has to happen and strand you. At which point, no doubt, (cynical mode on) they will say that it was not maintained satisfactorily.
I hate this stuff. Do you?
Any idea how I should proceed? One archive posting says take it up through the selling dealer who will take it up with the rep.
Any other ideas?
rg Read more
Our Puma 1.7 1997 has developed a slipping clutch which especially bad when cold. It hardly slips at all when hot though. Knowing full well what sort of a job (3.5-4.0 Hrs)it is to investigate I was wondering whether anyone else has come across this problem.
It's the same clutch setup in the KA and Fiesta 96> by the way with the combined slave cylinder/release bearing.
I suspect either:
A worn friction plate but the cars only done 51K and been driven properly. Also the pedal is reasonably progressive, not all at the top.
or
An oil leak that burns off after a few miles and the slippage reduces.
Any other ideas anyone?? Read more
I worked with a chap who ran a Bentley MkVI. Was complaining about the cost of replacing clutches. I spotted the plural here and enquired how many have you had. Was astonished to hear a total of five over previous six years. Went for a ride round the neighbourhood with him and diagnosed problem straight away. He started in third. Going thru roundabouts no change of gear from top just slip clutch as required. QED
Happy Motoring Phil I
With the Hydractive ECU disconnected (the hydractive sphere's should be out of the circuit?) the front of the car still moves, but is a little harder. As I would expect...
However the back is almost rigid. I suspect that the rear hydractive ECU is doing all the work, and that's why the ride is crap.....
Is this normal behaviour or is there something wrong?
And if there is something wrong, what might it be????
Within the last year all sphere's apart from the accumulator and anti-sink have been replaced.
If all else fails, if there's anyone reading with hydractive II, do me a favour, unplug the ECU and see how yours behaves.
cheers
matt Read more
Still going strong! Yep its been a while now since I\'ve posted about my lovely omega, but just wanted to say that she\'s still going strong without any probs or hassle since I purchased it with 89K on the clock last June. It was left in a long stay car park for 3 weeks in sub zero conditions at the airport during Xmas and started straight away when I got back! Its now reaching 97,000 on the clock and I am still wondering whether I should have the auto box oil replaced or not (whether I am better to leave it alone). Its running on Mobil 1 now, but other than a new air filter I havent done anything to the car.
Also, slightly off the topic but perhaps some of the more advanced and experienced members here can advise me.. given the current rather nasty icy conditions and the rather uncertain road conditions in my area, what is the best advise when driving on possibly icy roads. Also if the car does begin to slide, what\'s the best thing to do? Its an auto and rear wheel drive by the way!
Thanks all,
Simon
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Oh yeah. Wondered when you'd spot my deliberate mistake.
V
I've recently bought a 306 HDi and looking at the Tachometer there is a guage which is backlit when the ignition is first switched on and stays on for a short time after the engine is started. The guage goes from Min to Max and give no indication of what it is showing. Occasionally it flashes instead of being steady.
David Read more
The flashing oil level gauge means you are below the minimum oil level. Time to check the dip stick in the engine bay (sticks out with a round hoop on the end) and top up if necessary.
Afternoon,
I have seen some SIMILAR postings but no one seems to have a close enough problem that will allow me to use the associated solution.
Problem>
I have a J reg 1992 MKII Golf , 1.8 Driver, the car has 92,000 miles and is a shinning example of German engineering, but alas it has a problem, the car starts and runs like a dream, then every so often it starts to idle at 3000 rpm (absolutely no correlation in time, temp, distance etc). For no good reason it'll just suddenly start to over rev. The only clue I can provide is that it isn't an instant jump i.e. 800 rpm to 3000 rpm in a second, it takes about five seconds almost like it's a valve slowly opening.
The wax stat has been replaced twice in the last two years, the most recent was about four months ago and the problem just continued (started again about 45 minutes after leaving the garage).
My thoughts are that it could be a dodgy vacuum hose but due to my utter lack of mechanical knowledge the best I can do is to look at the pipes I believe could be responsible and ensure they don't have any obvious problems.
Does anyone have any other suggested fixes, or how/what I should be looking for?
Thanks in advance!!
Chris
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On the back of these lovely pierburg carbs are a pair of electrically heated thermal valves one of which operates an additional fast idle when very very cold to help get the thing up and running. It only operates for a few seconds but a regular fault is a failed wire in the two pin connectors which could be allowing the valve to come in.Other causes could be a split in the rubber carb mount, or a leak in the servo hose although that usually shows up permanently and very audibly.
Andrew
Happiness is a T70 at full chat!
hi guys its me again,
just learned i might be getting some help with finance for the car i wanna buy, (previously i was looking at 91 renalt clio 1.4 rt for driving backwards and forwards from bournemouth to hertfordshire).
so now with that in mind i want to look out for peugeot 106 quicksilvers if poss, with the gti body kits on them but with a small and cheap to insure engine.
where are the best sites to look out for these if you know any?
and whats a good price for one thats a about 5 years old.
I now have £3,000 to spend.
cheers, caz. Read more
Caz - don't get too hung up on the bodykit bit. Students' cars are safest if they keep a low profile, unless you have a nice secure hideaway to keep it in.
IMHO Peugeot make the most stylish range of vehicles on the market today. Whether you take the little 206, the 406 coupe, the 307 estate, or the impending 407, they all look superb. It is such a shame that the build quality, as with all French vehicles, is sadly lacking, and the reason I would never consider buying one!!! Read more
This thread has gone quite far enough.
Thank you.
Hello all,
A guy at work has a 98 Mitsubishi Galant 2000 auto estate with 40000 miles, at the weekend the oil light on the dash came on, he stopped, checked oil level and after finding levels correct got the car towed to the main dealer for investigation.
The car has always been serviced by the main dealer, last service was 4000 miles ago. The dealers workshop staff basically told him he needed a new engine as the oil pump has failed and wrecked the engine.
The thing I don't understand is how a car which has always been serviced by a main mitsubishi dealer and driven carefully all it's life can die at 40k miles.
Any suggestions on the correct action to take?
Read more
Thanks for the info, FYI the garage diagnosed the 'engine failure' by starting the car and giving it a rev. The guy who owns the car (my boss) isn't to happy, the garage told him, your engines had it a new one will cost 3k. I'm going to pop in on his behalf and have a chat with the mechanics to see if we can get a more specific diagnosis.
Hi,
This is a question prompted by the stolen recovered thread. Has any member got any points or stories about car inspections prior to buying? Did they put you off a car? Did they pick up any serious problems? That kind of thing.
Steve. Read more
AT,
I've always given cars a look over myself, once took so long my brother asked if I was buying it or doing an MOT. Well the reason for asking is that I intend to change cars in the summer and will be spending all I can afford (not much really but don't want to blow it all in). I wondered about the quality of the AA inspection and possibilities of claiming if they get it wrong.
Steve.
Browse
I agree. And the CAB. The fact is, if they include it in the big print and then write it out in the small print, that's got UCTA written all over it. Depending on how bothered you are, a small claims action might be worthwhile. It's quite unlikely they'd even bother defending it.