February 2003
The gearbox in our 1995 Rover 214SEI has just gone AWOL (has been noisy for some time) and is now in need of replacement. I have been quoted £ 400.- plus VAT and fitting for an exchange
re-conditioned gearbox (sourced from Black Diamond Warrington) but is this really the best way to go ? Any advice would be much appreciated. Read more
Can anyone help. My VW Polo, 1.05L 1988 is cutting out when it reaches normal operating temperature. It restarts after a few minutes then stops again after 2-3 minutes, always failing in the most difficult place! My first thought was the coil, but changing it has made no difference. Possibly the petrol pump? Suggestions please or the polo gets it!
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Exactly the same as I had with our 1988 1.3 Polo. Began to drive me and my local VW garage mad. After much investigation and expense it turned out to be the fuel pump. Similar symptoms can arise with a duff Hall sender but replace the pump first as they are cheap and the Hall sender isn't...
My 99 2.0 Ghia Mondeo has developed an interesting electrical problem. The fuse for the central locking / alarm is now regularly blowing (no common theme of circumstances or time interval between faults) On replacement the system functions OK for another few days or even weeks. Not sure if it is a wiring or component snag.
Does anybody know if this is a common problem or have any suggestions about the cause before I enter into a potentially long and costly investigation with a dealer? Read more
My 2003 2.0 TDCi had a fault where the doors didn't lock, indicators not work, and other things. It was the ECU that was faulty. Fuses didn't break, and we did look at a lot of them, to no avail. That was a warranty job, thankfully.
Hi
Could anyone give a personal recommend for a good electrical multimeter, preferably one woth a digital readout, and useful both for car electrics and domestic use.
My current PlasPlugs model has an analogue meter and is pretty well useless around the 12v range.
Thanks in advance.
NormanB Read more
"..a good set of ranges including up to 10A"
That's astounding! I'd buy two...
Wise men and women of the Back Room,
I know that this subject has probably been done to death, but a mate needs a hand getting his significant other another car, on a tight budget. Less than £500, ideally £200-£300.
She's a nurse who works nights (so it must start reliably), doesn't do long distances, and has 4 kids aged 6-12 (but rarely has them all in the car at once) so needs something with a bit of room, but is easy to drive (she's a mere slip of a thing).
The last two cars she's had have been Volvo 340s. The first, an F-plate 1.7, cost £300 privately and lasted a year before failing MOT on rust and brakes. The second (and current) one is a 1.4 on an H-plate, cost £200 from a dodgy dealer, looks very presentable from a distance but overheats, refuses to start now and then, and the MOT is due at the end of the month. We both doubt it will pass.
Neither of them know much about cars, and don't have access to a decent, trustworthy mechanic (they live in Solihull by the way - anyone know someone decent local to them?). I'm no ace mechanic, but have run a few ropey motors.
Now, I suggested Nissan Bluebird (my mate has one at the moment and is dead chuffed with it), but apparently these are quite thin on the ground in Brum these days. He's suggested an early Primera - I wasn't aware they were that cheap, but I've told him to watch out for ex-taxis.
I've also suggested Rover 216/416 (Honda engine), VW Jetta, perhaps also a Nissan Sunny.
I've recommended they avoid dealers and go for private sales - neither of them have any auction experience. It would be nice to find something that will last longer than a year.
Any other suggestions from the assembled? She's expressed an interest in a Renault 21 Savannah but again I'm not convinced one at this price level will be much better than a boat anchor.
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It's horses for courses I think Dave, some taxis are well-run but others tend not to be - it all depends on the operator. Same thing I suppose with ex-police and ex-hire cars. For example, the guy who used to run the local band I played in, the village accountant no less, bought a T-plate Omega 2.5V6 which had been used for private hire, runs to Heathrow and Gatwick etc, and despite 160k over 2 years still looks and runs sweetly.
Something like that would be fine that's been run with care by a single operator, but a lot of the older Cavaliers and suchlike have led hard lives through uncaring operators and drivers who maybe run them for a year or less. Will certainly be looking out for a Bluey though - I ran my 89G 1.8GS in 1998/99 from 80k to 100k in 8 months and it was faultless. Likewise when my mate mentioned was looking for his first car in Christmas 2000, a 60k 90H 1.8GS auto (the proverbial one-elderly-owner from new who only took it out to wash it and go to church on Sundays) was the ticket for £900. The mention of "Bluebird" will still make most cabbies go misty-eyed, the ones here on Guernsey hold them in reverence!
Hi, I have a 1995 306 D Turbo, but it came without a handbook.
I'm trying to identify a warning light that occasionally comes on on the dashboard, so was wondering if anyone knows of any instrument panel diagrams on the net? I have a Haynes manual but theres nothing in there.
The same applies to the fuse box - Theres a buzzing from one of the relays occasionally which I'd like to identify.
Thanks,
Phil Read more
Awesome, thanks for that. I guess it must be the Water in fuel. Drained and new filter being fitted today.
Thanks for all the help on this thread. Now just problem 2 to fix...
Phil
Whats the best guide to what the dealers will offer me? "What Car" "Parkers" etc seem well out. Should I take the price in Auto Trader and knock off £1000/£500? Read more
A lot depends on the car you are buying. I was offered anything from £200 to £1700 for my Tipo when trading it in - most dealers build in an amount in the screen price to allow for a trade-in, but if the car you are looking at has been sitting on the forecourt for a few weeks then they are more likely to give you a high trade-in than if it has just come along and they know they are likely to get the full screen price for it easily. The Parkers etc prices are a good starting point, but until you actually talk to a few dealers you can't really tell I'm afraid.
Could any VW diesel specialists shed some light on the following please? The car is just out of its 3 year warranty (of course!)
My VW Polo 1.4 pdi diesel flashed the glow plug warning light for about 3 minutes while driving along. It was unsafe to stop immediately as I was on a fast dual carriageway so I stopped ASAP, switched the engine off then back on - no warning lights since. According to the instruction book this indicates an engine management problem even though everything seems to be fine. Obviously I have to take it to a VW dealer to check out. I phoned the dealer who said to check the brake lights! If they were still working then the problem isn't urgent. If the brake lights are not working then to bring the car in immediately. The brake lights are working so this means they can't look at the car until next week. I'd appreciate some info so I know what's going on.
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Pete F
Thanks very much for that - it makes a lot of sense. The car has now gone to a VW dealer as the brake lights eventually did stop working! It looks almost certain that it's a failed switch, or switches.
regards from Bertj
My 306 is still not start to well,
I have checked the glowplug/timer etc and they are 100%.
I have changed the fuel and air filter. when I pumped the self primer I noticed tiny bubles leaking from the lid on the filter housing, I have now recified this.
However, on start up it still it still struggles, the starter appears to over starting, the engine is firing but does not run. After about 15 sec's she stumbles to a start with pleantly of WHITE smoke.
I'm going to replace all of the hoses from the steel task line - primer to the filter, filter to inj pump etc. but I fear this will not work.
The performance of the car when running is 100%, goes like hell.
Its on 135K (m reg). Any other thoughts?
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"the engine is firing but does not run. After about 15 sec's she stumbles to a start with pleantly of WHITE smoke"
In my last reply I was making the big assumption that what "hm" meant by "firing but does not run" was that during those first 15 seconds, the car starts normally, stalls, starts, stalls etc. until it finally manages to keep going without stalling. Air leak.
If, instead, the engine initially turns over without firing, then starts firing on (say) three cylinders, and then picks up the 4th cylinder - glow plugs.
Dieselhead - you could try inserting more pieces of clear fuel line nearer the fuel tank to help trace where the air is getting in. My first choice place to test would be the input side of the fuel filter to prove the filter isn't the culprit. I have a vague memory that someone once found an air leak in or around the squeezy rubber primer.
Ian
concerned about the car by car breakdown views.
these views are of the car 1 to 2 years ago, can i assume the facelift model with be slightly more problem free?
anyway with so many about you bound to get more problems, why has it won so many relibility awards? Read more
The only thing I have in common with Clarkson is the size of my gut
Browse
Yeah, the convertible 200 is OK!
Yes, it does suffer from the age-old scuttle shake but in general it's a fine car.
Look out for Tahiti Blue - the best colour IMO
Check the hood pivots and folds down smoothly - as with any under-used hood the pivots can and do seize causing untold damage which is often not obvious. Buyer beware!
Honda D16 SOHC and DOHC plus 1.4K Series engines available - I'd (out of preference) go for the frugal 1.4 K engined one. The Honda units are robust but thirsty.
MG-Rover Problems? forums.mg-rover.org