November 2002
Apparently no London dealers have a new kit in stock and they have no idea when any will be available.
Can anyone out there have any ideas where a kit can be obtained from please.
Thanks
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My friend has an Audi 90 Quattro 20v 1990 engine code 7A. The problem is as follows - When the car is left for a while and is started the idle will drop right off and then pick up again (quite often stalls if foot is not on the gas) , this problem is worse first thing in the morning. If the car has been running then restarting everything is fine. The other problem is the idle tends to "race" ie sometimes sits at 1300 rpm. Any ideas ? cheers! Read more
Try filling it from empty with decent octane petrol and giving it a good 50 mile thrash.
I have a Herald 13/60.
If it has stood for, say, a couple of weeks, it takes a long time winding it round on the starter before it starts.
However, if I start it the day after it has been run, it jumps into life very quickly.
I suspect, as the fuel pump is mechanical, the fuel drains back to the tank after a while and it takes a long time to get to the carbs.
Should their be a one-way fuel valve somewhere?
Anyone out there in HonestJohnLand got any bright ideas?
Thanks. Read more
Everyone of a certain age has a Herald in their motoring
history somewhere.
True.
Had my one and only crash in one. :-( Back end stepped out (surprise, surprise) on a tight bend and unluckily made contact with a Singer Vogue (Sounds better than Citroen Xsara doesn't it?).
My silly fault of course, but if I'd been driving the Citroen Ami (now that's better) that I really wanted, I'd have got home for sure.
Please does anybody have a definitive solution to water getting in to the passenger footwell? The car is 1996 Ghia estate with aircon & sunroof.The water in question is 'clean' and not tainted with anti-freeze or windscreen washer fluid. Research seems to indicate that the car does not have to be moving, only parked, in wet weather for water to find its way in. Read more
Thank you for taking the trouble to supply an answer to my problem with the 'leaking mondeo'. I have replaced the Ford pollen filter with a Halfords own brand in the interim and the problem appears to have gone away. Thank you for your help.
Dear all
After a brief and unpleasant period of ownership, I am selling my Mercedes A160 back to the supplying dealership. I plan to replace it with something a lot cheaper that I will be able to keep for a long time. I also want an automatic, & mpg isn't an issue as I only do about 6k a year.
Much research seems to point to a 1995/96 Volvo 850, as I fancy an estate from a long-term practicality point of view. I did consider a 1998 Passat & the Volvo V40, but the scary reliability stories put me off.
Can anyone offer advice as to the wisdom of such a purchase? Nice 850's of that age seem to go for between £4,000 at non-main dealers, and £7,000 at main dealers.
Many thanks in advance.
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Within the last fortnight I have bought a 1998 Volvo V70XC. It has the 2.5 20V light pressure turbo engine and all wheel drive. Fuel consumption is 18-20mpg on my 8 mile across B`ham commute, 25-27 mpg when plodding on A and B roads and over 30 mpg on the motorway. Performance is excellent for such a heavy car. The car was delivered to Solihull by the supplying dealer in Cambridge and prepared to a good standard. I would strongly recommend buying through the Volvo Approved Scheme as fault rectification will be expensive. A couple of minor faults require rectifying already and I was most impressed when the dealer I bought it from in Cambridge contacted my local dealer in Solihull after I had booked it in to ensure any bill, if not covered under the warranty, was forwarded to them. If you value good service and peace of mind this would be the way to go. Good luck with your search. The Volvo online vehicle locator is well worth using. This post may sound like I work for Volvo but I assure you I do not.
Long, long ago (1980), in a county far, far away (Lancs.), a young(ish) chap got his grubby mits on one of those pesky CB radio things and, after dark, became "TrashCan" or TC-214 on the side bands.
Does anyone still have a "rig" in their motor?
27Mhz AM ruled, OK
Ahhhhh, happy days....
John R Read more
I think that was the real problem.
It's very glam to be "hauling ass down the I64, with a rig full of steel"
Bit different from taking a lorry load of pigs to an abbatoir in Macclesfield.
For instance I would start with:
I'll be choosing the heir to the Rover this weekend. Richards fantastic site has great info (printed off to take with me) but no specific list of checks.
Here's my draft stab - hopefully a few people will add to it before midday!
Question's
No. of owners.
Mileage
Is the car registered in your name.
MOT
Reason for Sale
How long have you owned it.
Checks:
Tyres
Sills
Gen. Body condition
Signs of leaks.
Radio/Interior electrics.
Drive Shaft Boots
Compression test (Is this over kill?)
Listen for rattles at all revs
Coolant
Oil
Brake noise
Does it drive straight with hands off wheel
Ditto under braking.
--
These are my own opinions, and not necessarily those of all Toads. Read more
I tend to rely to some extent on gut feel.
In the world of bangers a straight, honest, unbodged car is
very rare and therefore quite easy to spot.
Yeah, I've phoned hundreds and looked at more that 30. We only saw two that looked right. A 95 mondeo at 1100 quid and the one I bought. Not a high percentage. (I was about to hand ove rht readies, but a clatter on start up that I'd thought was valve noise after being started after a few days stationary occured again - I'm sur eit was just hydraulic lifters but why bother)
Agree about dealers and private ads. We went to dodgy dealers and privates. I was only interested in car condition. As it happens dealers seems to be as prone to buying rubbish as the rest of us.
--
These are my own opinions, and not necessarily those of all Toads.
Hi, Could someone give any more ideas on how to cure this knocking noise on my mondeo zetec 1.6. First time i start it from cold, it sounds like there is a lack of oil, done the engine flush and replaced oil with 5/w30 but it is still happening. Has anyone else had this problem with their cars? I'd be happy if it sounded smooth when i first started it, but this has not been the case for the last 12 months nearly......desperately seeking help here........ Read more
or i might just flog it!.........
I have a diesel Seat Alhambra which recently came back from the dealership having been serviced and a new MAF sensor. From cold, when starting, the oil pressure warning lamp flashes twice and then goes out. The dealer hasn't been very helpful, suggesting that it is nothing to be worried about. I checked the top of the oil filter and saw that a wire was off. I put this back on (assuming it was the wire to the oil pressure switch) but that changed nothing. If the vehicle has been recently running, the oil lamp doesn't flash. I suspect that the oil switch has developed a fault, and that this is some kind of early warning. Any ideas?
Thanks
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SHMBO recently bought a new Focus lovely car and all that, we had it alpha dotted as well to stop it going walkies, well for the parts anyway.
Has anyone ever had any comeback, after that misfortune happened to them? i.e doe's it work.
Just interested thats all..
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RiDE mags also did a bike theft expose, this time 'stealing' about four from busy town centres. They drove a van up, lifted the bikes into the back and drove off. Even with alarms going off. Not an eyelid was batted by Joe Public.
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Bim
Get among the Landy fanatics at:
www.lro.com
Range Rover Forum
they may be able to help.
DVD
[I fixed the link. M.]