August 2002
I am taking my Volvo D5 (Diesel) into my local dealer for an oil change. My concern is they use Shell Helix Plus semi-synthetic which has an ACEA spec of B3. In the Volvo user manual Volvo specify ACEA B4 for diesels. Is this crucial and should I take in a couple of cans of Mobil 1 for them to use?
Thanks in advance for any advice. Read more
Not important but one of those things I've wondered about.
You know those automatic traffic counters the councils use, box at the side of the road, two rubber tubes across the road. Tyres crossing the tubes presumably cause some sort of counter to operate.
When the tubes go all the way across the road, how do they sort out how many vehicles have gone in which direction, or don't they bother? Also is a multi axle truck counted as several cars or what?
I know the answer has got to be simple but anybody any idea?
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we used to cut the pipes , that was fun as a kid , would'nt do it now though (older and supposedly wiser).
Hi-- 1st post
I've always driven very old cars until last year when I needed a car that wouldn't cause grief in the company car park. Now I have a 2 year old w reg GLS omega to sell with fairly low milage. Where the hell do you you go to sell privately. Surely someone must need such things. I'm hopin it's just that I'm c*** at this, or everyones on holidays, but that I'll get better. So far I've tried loot etc, but I've just had a couple of bites trying out REALLY low offers.
Any suggestions welcome
Cheers
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However, life changes are upon me, baby etc, but more
importantly, I'm in IT, i.e. don't have an IT job any
more>> RJ
I guess if
I buy new or nrearly new in the future I'll have
to stick with the Merc, VW, BMW sheep.... this is a
vicious circle
Sorry about your job and having to trade down.
Your Omega has suffered its major depreciation hit. That is the main cost for a low-use owner. So its makes financial sense to keep it, although the baby stuff will be difficult to cram in. Remember you will not get as good a bargain as your so called "near new" Omega if you try to buy it back. ("near new" is usually less than 6 months old, more like 1 to 3 months).
Two main reasons Omega loses its value: (1) there are thousands of ex-company cars out there that have been depreciated down in the accounts and (2) they do not have the same "luxury" or "rarity" value that cars like BMW/Merc/Mini have.
Would a permormance air filter (K&N etc.) make a noticable difference to a standard Diesel engine's performance??
Or is it best to just stick with the one the manufacturer puts in at a service?
Thanks.
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For a tuning firm's view, checkout:-
www.pumaracing.co.uk/gentune.htm
Recently bought an above on an L plate. Drives fine apart from an annoying fairly loud tick/chatter on acceleration/decel. Seller said pump had been rebuilt (looks like its been off the car at least). Noise sounds mechanical but appears to come from the centre of the dash/bulkhead! If you let foot off and power on again it sometimes goes away. Is it an indicator of something terminal or just flippin irritating? Read more
Hi, Im hoping for a wee bit of help with wiring a stereo into a '92 Astra Merit Estate.
When I bought the car secondhand the owner had removed the stereo. I got hold of a Vauxhall Grundig SC303 (model without display) from a mate and have tried to wire it in with no success. The stereo wiring leads fit in the back of the stereo fine and I get power and can hear the speakers work but cant get the Astra dashboard display to show the radio display. When the radio is switched on the time on the display stays on and the date disappears but nothing appears in its place.
I have heard a rumour that the display needs to be matched to the stereo to work...is this true???
Does anyone know what each colour of wire does etc as I seem to have a few redundant ones. Does anone know where I can get a wiring diagram?
If anyone has had this same problem and has solved it without buying a new head unit Id love to hear the solution.
Cheers for any help offered
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Thanks for that. Mainly I want to confirm that the dash display wont work with my stereo until I get it re-calibrated by a Vauxhall dealer?
If thats the case then I reckon I'll just buy a new head unit with a built in display - I didnt have to pay for my current one anyway!
I cant seem to get the unit working as I had it re-coded but cant get it to accept the new code. If I could see the display then Id know:
1.when I was required to enter the code
2.if I'd enter it correctly
3.how many times Ive got it wrong already!
4.if its re-locked because Ive tried it incorrectly too many times.
Im following instructions in the booklet but nothing beeps to let me know the code has been accepted etc.
Cheers
Murray
My 1999 2.0 406 Estate gets through a set of tyres every 24000 miles (I'm now about to purchase the third set). Whilst I consider this to be perfectly acceptable for the front pair, I would expect the rears to last considerably longer. The two sets I've used to date are Continental Eco Contacts, I'm going to change to Goodyear NCT5 all round to see if that improves the rears life.
Anybody else on the forum with a 406 Estate and if so, how long do your rear tyres last?
Rich Read more
15.000 on a set of front Contis. Sorry cannot give you any data on the rear but they are up to 11.000 with little wear.
Fullchat
has anyone any thoughts on this product i am about to do a oil change. i think i may have a sticking tappet and wondered if this may help
thanks rob Read more
which oil
at a loss to what oil to use in a ford maverick 2.4 petrol injection engine.i am about to do an oil and filter change
hand book says 10/30 or 10/40 halfords say 5/30 and 10/40
for a terrano which has the same engine as far as i know.
does it matter if i use a conventional oil or a synthetic oil.
as i dont know what is in it at the moment.or does it not matter if i am changing the oil.
many thanks, rob Read more
My 1998 Peugeot 406 Coupe 3.0 V6 has recently developed a intermittant loss of power, it only lasts for about half a second to a second but can happen at any speed and at any revs and is now occurring every few miles on average. When it happens at motorway speed it feels as if I've lifted off the throttle sharply but then picks up again almost straight away and doesn't usually happen again for a while; when it happens at medium speed (say 40 mph) it causes a more severe jolt, as if changing into too low a gear, and can happen several times in a row; when it happens at very low speed or when stationary it often causes a stall.
Today I drove 25 motorway miles without it happening once, then when I slowed to 25-30 mph it happened several times in close succession. When I parked shortly afterwards I left the engine idling for a few seconds to monitor it and witnessed the revs jump up slightly at one point followed by a large fall to almost zero before picking up and idling normally again. Other times it just stalls after about 2-3 seconds at idle.
The car has low mileage (just turning 30,000) and a full service
history. From what I read elsewhere all these symptoms may indicate a problem with the airflow meter, any observations before I take it back to the main dealer where I got it from under warranty?
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Does the rev counter fall pretty quickly when you loose power if so then an electrical problem may be, however what you may be describing is a Fuel pump failure. Good Luck
Browse
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Thats what I was concerned about the warranty. I have had a long discussion with the dealerships service manager and as far as he is concerned its black and white. He is arranging for the whole dealership (which is extremely large)to change its bulk oil to comply with the ACEA B4 spec because Volvo mandate the use of ACEA B4 for the D5 engine. Unfortunately Volvo had not passed this onto the dealerships and it is only because I have bothered to read the handbook that this was brought to light.