August 2002
BMW, Merc and VW are affected.
Thousands of motor industry workers are protesting wage offers during a one-day strike on Monday.
The strike coincides with the opening of the World Summit on Sustainable Development in Johannesburg.
Reuters reports that the National Union of Metalworkers of SA (Numsa) has rejected an increase of four per cent. Numsa is demanding 10 per cent. The union said this would compare with a 10,6 per cent annual rise in headline inflation during July.
Numsa also wants an agency shop agreement that will compel non-union members to pay subscription fees to unions. Numsa said it was insisting on this move because non-union members benefited from union efforts without paying anything.
If the matter is not resolved on Monday the parties will begin mediation. The union is planning strike action from September 1 if this fails.
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New scam reported in top gear
Guy gets paid to reposes a car by finance company
Swaps the alloys for steel wheels
Rips out the stereo
Pours oil over the engine
Messes with HT leads to cause a misfire
Puts car through auction
He buys the car himself, or gets a friend to do so
Takes it home
Steam cleans engine
Puts HT leads back
Replaces wheels/stereo
And sells it on at a nice big profit
Finance company don’t care
Looser is person car was reposed from as price made at auction is taken from his final bill
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I'm thinking about it and I'm not even sure if, apart from the wheels, it's illegal?
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Parp, Parp!
Note: All Toad posts come with an implied smiley.
Most vehicles seem to boast a tachometer (rev counter). Why? What for? I can perhaps understand in a sports car with a stickshift there might be a role for this thing, but we have 3 autos in our backyard, which, when venturing out of the drive, seldom get out of Drive as it were, except to go backwards.
Example: mine is a 4.6 liter V-8 Ford. It has tachometer reading up to 6000 (no red line). Normal engine speed is almost never more than 1,500-1,800 rpm. At 100 kph which is about as fast as it is possible to go in the Philippines due to traffic conditions and road surfaces, and even then only occasionally, the thing ambles along at around 1,550. It is very powerful and lays good rubber when floored but that's torque, not revolutions.
Apart from looking nice and balancing up the dash layout, along with confusing some others who shall be nameless ("Babes, which one of these two is it again that says how fast you're going?" --- yes, well, enough of that) what is the point of the thing?
It's like all the useless finnicky stuff on the stereo that you have near accidents trying to use and need 50% of the manual to explain (I kid you not, mine does).
I now pass this conundrum to those eager to explain it.............
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Right. First, assuming one lives within convenient distance, one contacts Knockhill office (www.knockhill.com will do). They send one a form to cough up £169, which one sends; they then send a receipt and an invitation to 'phone for a date. One then puts off for a month or two, now fearing that people may think one an old fool. Eventually they 'phone and one has to face up to it.
One then parades on the due date and appointed time (in Toad, giving some style to proceedings) to find some other hopefuls there.
The drill is that one gets an initial briefing, some of which one hears despite dubious hearing and a typical modern small child which somebody's better half has brought with her - dammit.
On the track, following arduous insertion of one's six feet (length, not number) through the roll cage one goes round first with the instructor driving, he making various profound observations which one does not hear, so one just looks at what he is doing as best as possible, being somewhat discouraged by no working instruments and the remembrance of some hot laps once, chauffeured by my nephew in a sprint Sunbeam on a track day, when turning in points and things seemed notably different and more in accord with one's own instincts. Then there are 5 laps with self driving, under the impression that one is picking up some of what is being said. Some trouble with the clutch, which is not well placed in an E at best so that one tries to displace a portion of the vehicles structure instead of the pedal, but things seem to fall into place. Despite what was said at briefing about us finding 5 laps quite enough, it was too short. One thinks eight would be better for geriatrics.
Then we get a rest, followed by another 5 laps.
Before this lot the instructor suggests a simple hand code, for when he wants brakes on and off - he seems to think throttle can be left to the fates - and turn in points. It really seemed to one to go quite well. Certainly it was enjoyed.
It must be related that one's brother, who was chatting with the chap who looks after the machinery, inquired about a misfire on the straight; after a look and listen next time round they concluded that one was coming out of the hairpin faster than others and was hitting the rev limiter - really requiring another change up, but at about 100 yards to the braking point hardly worth while.
To finish up there was a final lap driven by the instructor, presumably to get his revenge, but after one's nephew it was not that hair-raising!
One gets an assessment with various aspects of driving rated from A to E, and a score, and comments; someone got a little plaque for having 92; one only got 84, presumably because of the E for "Drive To Instruction".
Comments were:- "Amazing, never heard a word of instruction, just went faster and faster. Didn't bother with clutch on first run!! - that's too slow!"
But one has As for "Maintain Full Control" and "Consistency".
The cars were stripped 3.8 hardtops, big bore Webers, fitted with V-12 brakes, to last all day; and Getrag 5-speed boxes, because the Jag boxes were far to expensive to maintain.
One is contemplating another go before aging sets in too far.
Tomo
I am almost at the point of orderinhg a new Mini Cooper and I hope you can give me some advice before the heart takes over the brain.
1. What colour ...I fancy silver grey...what experience do others have / what does it look best in ?
2.I currently drive an Alfa 156 ( 3 years old )...some city but mostly weekends with some motorway.I walk to my office so no commuting.What's the mini like for motorway / B road driving.
3.Am I nuts to give up the Alfa for a much smaller car.
4. My brain is telling me to get rid of the Alfa before big bills start to arrive.
HELP.
Thanks,Dennis. Read more
Hi UJ, thanks for the comprehensive reply. In the end I've taken my money a little further east to Leeds, but gald to hear I'm not at the same dealer as you!
There is a huge difference between dealer knowledge (dodgy seeing as there's only 1 model with 3 variants to learn), but found that Accrington & Leeds both had very knowledgable staff-credit where it's due!.
IIRC there's several things that can be programmed by your dealer, including some weird things with the windows. I'll dig out the specifics and post them here later. The 2003 has the locking thing as standard, along with a glovebox which I'm not totally convinced about. I can post a photo of it if anyone is interested. Which somehow, I doubt!
The discretionary adjustment thing sounds a bit iffy, I'm hoping that mine being new will be sorted, but I've driven a couple of demonstrators that definitely do pull to the left.
What you're saying about wearing a suit and getting better service is as shocking as it is true, don't understand why they still make crass assumptions like this.
Chilli Red & Pepper? I do live near Bradford where fantastic and fantastically cheap curries reign supreme...perhaps it's wearing off on me!
Lee.
I came down the M57 on Saturday after collecting some fibre glass supplies from the excellent Glasplies in Southport. Between the start of the motorway and coming off onto the M62 heading east there where over 60 small cameras on poles about 5 meters tall. They seemed to be spaced at intervals of a couple of hundred meters, all of them pointing in the direction of travel. Does anyone know what this mass of cameras is for? It did seem that there had been some road works, but these were almost gone.
Bill Read more
Pulling the threads together
I am looking at getting a car to travel in out here in NZ, about Astra size but due to limited budget it will be cheap. I'm not the only one doing this and there are plenty of backpackers cars in NZ floating about and I am sifting through them. I have seen some right bangers recently but one car caught my eye. It is an 85 Corolla. Seems clean inside and not too bad paintwork wise. Bearing in mind I would look to get it for $1000, (300 quid) I am being very picky. It has just had a new warrant of fitness (MOT) and has good tyres a new back box to the exhaust, and some alternator work done on it. It ticks over slightly roughly at about 600rpm on the rev counter but revs happily to the red line. The fluids are all as they should be and all the paperwork checks out although there is only receipts for the last service. The clutch bites very near the floor (had been told it has had work done on it). There is a bit of rust in a few places but this is the thing that worries me. On the tail gate (it is a 5 door liftback) there two lines along the tailgate near the roof exactly horizontal from the windscreen out. It looks like the tail gate has been made out of two separate ones (a cut and shut tailgate if you will). Not sure about whether this is a major worry - I have been put off it alot but it is cheap. I am in search of guidance from the back room. And any hints abour buying a banger welcome and appreciated.
PS. The Old Accord I asked a question about a month or so ago is running sweetly (touch wood) and seems like a damn good buy.
Paul C Read more
I am thinking of buying one of these cars, has anyone got anything to say about them good or bad.
One small thing that doesn't make sense to me, how come dealers can ask 6500 for a car that Parkers (website) say should change hands for 4000 ? (R-reg)
I know people pay what they think somethings worth or is the Parkers valuation system well out ?
Any comments are welcome.
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parkers has no idea about the value of any Civic VTI. VTI's fetch a premium, they can outperform just about any 'hot-hatch' and do it all day, everyday, wihthout breaking
before i bought my 1.6 VTI i looked at well over a dozen, even the ones in really dodgy condition were more than parkers mid-book
all i can say is take a look at autotrader and if the value seems fair, buy it. VTI's are amazing, reliable fast understated cars.
basic things to check are service history, - that VTEC engine will be good for well over 150,000 miles, but only if its looked after
rear calipers (tend to seize)
and make sure you check the mileage, because civic's go for ever they get clocked a lot
other than that just get one and enjoy it
The driver's electric window on my aging Honda Prelude makes a sreeching or growling sound, when going down but not up. If the sun has been on it for sometime it goes quiet. Door cavities are not nice places to work. It's hard to see anything. The glass is quite scratched outside. Any help greatly appreciated.
Mikey Jay
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Thank you both for replying. The window seal is as hard as granite and I'll try putting something on it.
Kind regards, Mike
This stuff is made with 5% re cycled chip and cooking oil yet surprisingly, isnt 5% cheaper than 'regular' diesel.
Personally, I think the distributor is going to be disappointed with sales even if it is greener but still costs the same as the regular stuff! Read more
Surely the whole point of a tram system is that they dont overtake each other. They follow set routes, a set time apart. The Metrolink in Manchester works very well (apart from ruch hour when its a little overcrowded).
Jonathan
I read in the motoring supplement of my local rag that apparently LRP is slowly being withdrawn from a lot of petrol stations as the demand isn't there. They were on about having or taking part in some campaign that would ask petrol stations to give notice about the withdrawal of LRP from their station rather than just going ahead and doing it. They said that LRP sales were only about 3% of the total. I hope they didn't get the figure from winter sales only as that will obviously make a difference to the figure! Is there any truth in this or is it just another wicked rumour?
teabelly Read more
I can't see that it would be much loss if it were withdrawn completely. Unleaded with your own additive is cheaper, and you can choose the kind of additive yourself if you wish. There has been a lot of debate about the merits of different kinds, and I think one conclusion in the classic world was that the base used in LRP (Potassium?) was not actually very good.
I have used Millers VSP for 2 years now (Manganese - based). It makes the car feel as it did on the real leaded stuff, and gives an octane boost to restore straight unleaded to what proper 4-star used to be.
I also found LRP rotted the rubber diaphrams in Stromberg carburettors.
..brilliant!!!!! Thanks!!!!