April 2002

steve

I hear that the motor trade uses this forum, so thought i may as well ask this question here.

How do i get in to car sales?

I am 18, well 19 in Oct, and really want to get in to the motor trade but dont quite now how to go about it. Hope you guys can help.

Chears. Read more

Tomo

Steve,

I have no intention to be rude and I don't think I was, just honest.

Something you may consider is, if you fail to use your best English, you may in fact fail to convey correctly the point you are seeking to make; as indeed it seems I may have done.

Good luck, Tomo

Cardew

A simple question: Has anyone personal knowledge of a motorist prosecuted for driving on a UK motorway (with the NSL of 70mph in force) at :

A. 75-80 mph
B. 80-85 mph

I have not.

I am aware the mere mention of speed cameras, speed limits or the police is sufficient to drive Bogush and his ilk into a frenzy. However it would be nice to have simple answers without them hijacking this thread for their crusade.

C Read more

Guy

I was done on the M25 3 years ago doing 90 'something' (on average) over the statute mile.

Yes I know it was the M25 but it was an April night about midnight.

There were SIGNIFICANT personal reasons why I was driving this way (g/f gone to hospital with female complications) BUT I was still practising lane discipline and never undertook.

In fact the officer of the police car I overtook (homer says 'dooh') at speed even commented that I indicated while doing so at what he assessed to be a safe distance for the speed.

He pulled me and I agreed it was a fair cop. He asked why and I told him. He took my licence and said it would be up to the magistrate as to the penalty but that I shouldnt be suprised if I lost the licenece and the matter was referred higher up the food chain.

HOWEVER he did say he was able to write a report of my reason and lane discipline etc and that he would do so - he was sure that the magistrate would take this into account AND HE DID!

3 points and £40 fine (I think)

AND I DONT SPEED ANYMORE AS IT MADE ME REALISE THE IMPLICATIONS TO MY LIFE AND CAREER IF I DO.

It was the Hertfordshire area of the M25 (not the met / surrey / essex bit) so as long as you are driving at the 11 O'clock position........

hope this helps

Guy

Tony

The back room refers to a fault on the wipers at 40k on where the wiper pivot mechanisum wears prematurly so obsructing the cars bonnet when lifting it , yes this has happened at 50k to my car . The wipers still work and only the passenger side is affected so the problem as yet is not a must mend situation. However how dificult is a diy repair or is it a dealer job? Read more

James Nelson

Hi All

I am new to the disc group and could do with some advice about a sick Alfa 156 which has had the following faults. I'll try to be brief but here goes with a brief history:

1. Purchased Alfa 156 2.0 TS with Leather Sport Pack from AutoAalbers and imported it into the UK Jan 2000.

2. 19 months old and the car started to suffer from engine breaking problems: i.e. when changing gear it was very difficult to get a smooth change, often if left in neutral and the car was going down a hill or on the flat it would decellerate to a stanstill.

Went to dealer and they cleaned throttle pot and reset the ecu, seemed to improve for 1 week and then back to normal.

3. 19 months old took car back with above problem and a squeeky front suspension especially when going over speed bumps.

Checked again and diagnosed failed rocker cover gasket, causing oil leak/loss of compression. Squeek diagnosed as failed front wishbone arms. Took 3 months to order in parts by which time car tended to understeer and vibration developed at all speeds through front of the car, (also changed tyres to Potenza S03's from Pirelli's wished I had put Michelin on).

4. 22 months old, dealer finally fitted new front wish arms, repaired rocker cover gasket and the engine braking improved but the suspension did not. Main problem was car vibration all the time, through the front of the car and instability at speed.

Dealer agreed with problem and decided to 4 wheel align the car 4 times, no improvement. Ordered replacement front and rear shocks.

5. 24 months old fitted front and rear shocks.

No improvement.

6. 26 months old another 4 wheel alignment and replaced failed rear bushes (one was hanging off apparently - which would explain the occasional knock at the rear).

No improvement, the tech ordered another set of rear shocks even though I disagreed and said if replacing once made no difference how would another?

7. 27 months, replaced shocks again, no improvement, tested wheels (after having em balanced 5 times) and diagnosed 2 out of true alloys (the ones from the rear where bushes had gone).

Garage wanted me to fork out for the alloys but the tyre place was not convinced. Used 2 more alloys from the garage and it helped but did not solve problem.

8. Finally last week, garage tryed last through of the dice and 4 wheel aligned car and released nuts on all suspension components and they hear a big "clonk". After this the car drives much better and the only vibration I think is due to the out of tru alloys.

My questions for help are as follows: could the incorrectly setup suspension/failed rear bushes have caused both rear alloys to fail (and therefore allow me to claim on warranty). As there is no sign of kerbing on them and it would be difficult to damage both of them simultaneously.

Secondly I am getting more concerned as the engine breaking has not really gone away (just had more pressing problems to concentrate on). Do other 2.0TS drivers have the same problem. I am sure that when I first had the car it drove much better and was less erratic/jerky at low rev's/speeds, more smooth in gear changes. If this is a problem, what could I suggest the tech to look at, my guess it throttle pot/ecu....

Thirdly the car has in the last 3 weeks developed a squeek from the front of the dash in front of driver, any ideas?

Apologies for the long email but I refuse to sell this car as when it works it is fantastic, and having solved one fault am eager to sort the others out. The local alfa dealer have been ok (i.e. they could have told be to f*@!#$ off as it is in an import with an extended UK warranty), but they struggle to diagnose advanced faults...

On another note anyone with an import in the UK, must take out an alfacare warranty, as the dealer principal mentioned they are getting return rates on alfa's of more than 25%, and with labour rates at £50 p/hour, it could get bloody expensive.

If anyone could help it would be well received......I am getting desperate.


James Nelson Read more

James Nelson

They have managed to balance them off the car but apparently they machine was shaking all over the place once it had got it to within 10g. So god knows what the wheel is doing to the hub/bearing. Am off back to the dealer tommorrow to ask about replacement wheels and a deal whereby if the wheels solve it I'll pay, if not they can have em back with the car (cannot see it somehow).

Chris Tucker

Need to sell the above, its on a B reg plate. I have been propositioned many times by enthusiastic cosworth owners for its potential as a replacement shell for a bent version of this early supercar. Any thoughts on the best place to advertise this beauty?
Chris Read more

Piet Kass

Or the Ford RS Owners' Club website:

www.rsoc.co.uk/

Keith Halstead

Hi,

I recently purchased a second-hand Peugeot 306 with a keypad immobiliser (96N 1.6 XS).

The owner's manual describes a procedure for delaying the immobilisation for an hour and shows a "D/N" key. That's all very well, but on my keypad this key is labelled "S" and the procedure in the manual doesn't work! I was wondering if anyone could confirm instructions for carrying out such operations with this keypad.

While playing around, I did also find that by typing the code twice it would bleep at me four times with the green light on - this did seem to then delay the immobilisation but it's not documented so I don't know if that is right or not.

Also, with the green light on, if I press the "S" button, type the code, then the "S" button again it bleeps a few times very quickly. Then when I turn the ignition off the red light comes on and stays on for a few seconds AND it bleeps four times which doesn't seem to be documented at all!!

"Normal" operation for it so far has been just a bleep each time I press a button on the keypad with the immobilisation always starting within a minute of switching off the ignition.

Any help gratefully received! Thanks!
Keith Read more

Dave Lacey aka Dr Dave

Sounds like typical Peugeot electronics to me......... :-)

J Hill

Can you advise please?
I have a 1987 (E) SAAB 900i, purchased new, collected by self from
Gothenburg.
This car has always appeared to ride a little 'low' over the rear axle - typically the mudguards will scrape on a corner - always have done, even unladen. We have checked, frequently, with SAAB as to the integrity of the rear suspension / 'sag' of the car, and have been assured there were no problems. In an attempt to lift the back end, we had rear springs and shocks replaced (by Adrian Smith SAAB)in 1998 - sadly to little effect.
Until recently this has presented no handling problems. However, over the last year, the sag has become more significant on the near side, and the car has presented with handling problems.
It has consistently passed MOTs and garage inspections - last MOT - Nov 2001. On enquiry, following inspection by Adrian Smith SAAB, we were advised to replace rear springs. This, along with new shocks, has been done; in addition, all four front ball joints and tie rod ends have been replaced.
There would seem to be little significant rusting/ corrosion to the
mounting points of the rear axle. The car continues to sag and drift - especially if it's windy.
What next? Please don't say scrap.....it's a dream of a car. Read more

J Hill

Have seen one or two others equally saggy - this problem is, to some extent academic. What is unsettling is the reduction in handling quality and the increased sag to one side.

carole

Just checking, you understand, but my beloved Xsara (!) is cutting out again and, as usual, nothing showed when the garage put it on the machine. They've had it for a week now, running it around to see if it will do it for them. It won't, of course. And why they think they'll be lucky enough for it to happen within the space of the few days they've had it, when it can go weeks without even so much as faltering I don't know. (That's the exciting thing about intermittent electrical faults.) Anyway, some bright spark in the back says he thinks he knows what it might be - an oil sensor connected to the power steering: when braking and turning at the same time (that's when it usually happens) he reckons it puts such a load on the battery that it cuts out. Now, is this just a tale to get me off their back or could it be that after two years my problems could finally be over? (It's also had to have a new alarm sensor recently because it kept going off - isn't that sometimes battery related? And since it was fitted the car doesn't beep when it's locked. Strange.)

Anyway - they're fitting the part, on the basis that they've nothing to lose, and I expect Citroen to stump up the £16 it costs. But it's going to take them a fortnight to deliver the part, so I'll have it back in the meantime - and what's the betting the thing cuts out the minute I pick it up?

Oh, and if it doesn't work does anyone want to buy a nice Xsara VTR? Read more

Flat in Fifth

Hey up Carole, how is Coles car park these days?

Stuart

Dave N

Does anyone know if these type of things are still available? Read more

Charles

DaveN

It depends on your suspension set up and your budget. The best ones I've come across and I'm sure they're still available are produced by Sachs Boge and are called "Nivomat". They were OE on Volvo estates. They are fully self contained and 'pump themselves' up to assist the springs and then let themselves down after the load is removed. They don't need an external air line or on board compressor like the cheaper Monroe versions.

HTH

Charles

T.G.Webb

At 46K miles my 1998 Corsa has an annoying buzz when under way (previously posted) which the dealer hasn't met before.
He reckons it may be a clutch problem but the car's too young for a new clutch and it's expensive.
The other thing is that I've recently had to have the clutch cable readjusted as it was becoming hard to change gear (pedal all the way down to floor before disengaging) which is the reverse of what happens if the clutch wears. Now I think that after only a few 1000 miles the adjustment problem may have returned.
Do these signs mean anything to anyone?
Thanks. Read more

T.G.Webb

Many thanks Matt & Trevor,

in fact the buzz does quieten when the clutch pedal is lifted up so the clutch release bearing looks suspect. As far as the mileage is concerned I've only ever had to have a replacement clutch once, at 80K in a Cavalier, GM's last great car.

Many years ago an elderly uncle would go through clutches because he wasn't aware that he was depressing the pedal - I seem to recall that he must have had a hydraulic clutch because his garage rigged up a brake warning light switch in the clutch hydraulic pipe so that a dashboard light went on to remind him if he needed it.