March 2021
Hi all, having thought it was on its way out, I've tested the EFB battery in my 2013 Seat Alhambra...my KW600 says its good and needs recharging. Its been charging on and off via a Ctek XS 0.8 over the last week and its holding very little charge even after 13-14 hrs and also after a 50-60 mile trip. After the last charge both automatic door opening lights on the dash are now flashing.
If i can, I want to sort this issue(s) myself to keep costs down as gf is v likely to be made redundant imminently, that said we have nearly 2yr old triplets so time is at a premium. Also, my experience with cars is limited tho I'm a keen pupil...my questions are:... Read more
Helo, I've just got a VW Beetle 1.4 Luna convertible with a manual roof.
I put the roof down, but it does seem to lock into place and the overhead warning by the handle is lit, I have tried to open and close it several times and it won't lock open and the light stays lit. It will lock shut but the warning light is now still staying on. To make matters worse I put all 4 electric windows down and now they won't go back up! ... Read more
Sounds like the hood frame is distorted or out of alignment. Something in the mechanism may be bent . Probably not a cheap fix . The door lock problem is a separate issue and likely to be a fault with the door latch ( very common) .
Any chance that the car may not have been straightened out properly after a bump ? :-(
My 2011 Mazda 2 has a knock on the steering, when turning large amounts at very slow speeds. I know this is the intermediate steering shaft, just like the mk7 Fiesta. I sprayed some lithium grease on the top joint and it went. But it came back after a couple of days. I'm just wondering if this spray grease was not very good or does it need a new part. If I do take the shaft out and clean it, what kind of grease should I be using?
I guess a new part is the safest. I don't imagine it will be cheap from Mazda. Thanks for any help Read more
The reason I suggested using grease is that's what I read a lot of people did with the Mk7 fiesta, as it's a known fault. It's a shaft with a joint on either end. One connects to the power steering motor behind the steering wheel, and the other to the steering rack down by the pedals. I agree a new part is probably the way to go. Shame I can't seem to find a pattern part, as Mazda are a bit of a rip off in my experience.
Greasing wont last long and doesn`t prevent the UJ from wearing, but its up to you if you use a pattern part, but I don`t recommend it as I have known pattern parts to wear knock faster than OEM...
So my MOT is tomorrow and I was topping up my screen wash and when I dropped the bonnet, and it doesn't catch fully. I believe there are two catches and only one is working, the hood sticks down but not all the way. I've tried blasting a load of wd-40 into the mechanism and that hasn't worked. There's no tension whatsoever on the inner release tab in the driver's seat, so maybe it's a problem there. If anyone has any suggestions I'd appreciate it. Read more
Just fixed it. Sprayed a load more WD down there (a full small can in total) and slammed it shut. Seems to be working fine.
Here we have the tail of a simple puncture.
T’other half has a new Ford Puma.
She setting off for work at 8:30 noticed NSR rear tyre flat. Of course no spare or jack.
Large screw in edge of tread.
Tried compressor to inflate tyre till she could find a tyre shop. Wouldn’t inflate so being as though tyre looked a right off, told her to use the can of foam. That didn’t work also. Called breakdown service who temp repaired tyre. Only 1 tyre shop in Hull who stocked correct size/type tyre.
So at 2pm still waiting in queue in tyre shop.
Ultimately it’s taken 5 hrs to sort a simple puncture when it would take 10mins to put a spare on.
Absolutely ridiculous.
Read more
The last puncture that I had was on a Christmas Eve afternoon-luckily I had a spare.Try getting a puncture repaired at that time.I was lucky-the 6th. tyre depot was still open.
Good evening all.
Past few days my car has felt sluggish, feels like it has less power and also sounds quite noisy inside when travelling at high speeds. When driving 70mph on motorway it almost feels like I’m travelling up hill and certainly doesn’t feel like I’m going 70mph can even find myself going 80 without even realising.
Turbo intercooler hose pipe seems to be leaking oil at the bottom and there is oil over the top of the intercooler but not sure how long this has been doing this. Could this be the cause? Car was serviced 3 weeks ago and has been driving decent except the past few days.
I have checked pipes and can’t see any visible holes etc. I have checked all around the turbo too.
Had someone look at it and they say they can’t see any issues. They took for a spin round the streets 30mph and can feel a kick around 30mph but my car used to feel a lot quicker than this.
Does anyone have any ideas what this could be?
Thank you in advance.
Car is a DS3 Cabrio 1.6 HDI. Read more
This will have the Psa Dv6 engine. Early versions were troubled with turbo problems due to oil flow issues . May be an idea to check the turbo rotor vanes for any excess movement.
Looking for some advice and opinions.
End of November 2020 I brought a used Hyundai i30 from a car dealer (Not Hyundai) I only had the car 2 hours in my possession before the car was returned to the dealer, Rear brakes were binding and making a racket and had 2 TPMS warnings. I didn't see the car again for 5 days whilst the brake pads were replaced and a tyre pressure sensor changed. A week later the car was returned again, another tyre pressure warning and a nail found in the tyre which was replaced.... Read more
Thanks for updating, how much did you pay compared to others on offer at that time, was it at a premium because of condition and mileage.
So, not a cheap old car, so your rights are greater....
If anyone is waiting until April 12th to view a car or cars at a dealership, do yourself a favour and have an appointment before going in.
There is a huge number of people waiting until non-essential retail reopens, and dealerships will still have to regulate the numbers of people on the premises at any given time. So if you want to be sure there's someone to see you, or that the car you're going to see is available and Covid cleaned, give them a call and get yourself in their diary. Read more
Hello,
Can anyone help with the part number of a catalytic convertor for my vauxhall corsa 1.2 twinport 2008 registration. It has a z12xep engine.... Read more
Hello All,
Currently i have a VW polo & want to sell it to get a small crossover/suv.
Was thinking of Toyota chr, vw t cross, lexus ux, volvo xc40 (although abit big), mazda cx30, nissan qashkai.
And just do not know which one to choose from this list for it to be reliable.. i m a woman & do not understand much in cars.. it has to be auto, 2018-2019-2020, i do not drive much & only really locally. not big suv. Please help! Maybe some other pretty looking car options? Thank you in advance.
P.S. was thinking even about audi A1 (if wont find a good suv as almost polo size) but seems alot of money for such a small vehicle. Read more
Be wary of any car (all VAGs) that has a dual clutch 'auto' gearbox - secondhand ones can often be offloaded because they are worn (on the way out) and will be expensive to fix, plus many are not suited to use in heavy traffic, as they will be 'slipping' their clutches a lot just like a car with a manual gearbox.
Hyundais and KIAs version of this gearbox is more reliable, VAG's 'wet' cluch versions next, then their 'dry' clutch versions (and those not overspecced enough to cope with the engine power), the Ford's (don't tocuh the Powershift dual clucth cars with a barge pole)....
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I thought I needed a new starter motor. Took the old one and they offered to test it, diagnosed the 'freewheel' and replaced just that part. Much cheaper and I was well chuffed.
I have no connection to them, other than being a satisfied customer for decades....