December 2015
Taken delivery of a new ecoboost just over 1 week. Done 200 miles over the week and thought I'd give the levels and tyres pressures the once over.
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The indicators stopped working on the rear of my girlfriends 207.
Thinking it was a bulb change she took it to the main dealer who phoned her to say that the bulb was ok and the wiring harness was faulty.
She agreed to have this changed but when she came to pick it up they said it was still intermittent.
They claimed that the Harness was faulty and power is now reaching the light cluster but to fix the problem she would need the part that connects the harness to the bulb holders.
Has anyone had any experience of this problem which appears to affect several Peugeot rear light clusters ? Read more
Main dealers will not entertain any cheap/work-around fix .It is not a fire risk,as the current consumption is very low,under 5 amps per side,and that is with all bulbs illuminated at the same time.Also a job like this is good for business and parts sales.Don't quite know how they can charge £50 + for a connector and wires that can be bought for less than a fiver.Burnt/overheated connectors on rear lights on French and italian cars goes back years,so nothing has changed.Similar problems can be found on the old Bmw e46 models and MB c-class W 204 models.Interestingly the replacement parts are cheaper than Peugeot.
I have a 2012 insignia 2.0 diesel with 35k on clock and get knock/pinking/rattle sound when engine is cold and accelerating at around 2000rpm , as soon as temp gauge hits its normal position the knock/pinking/rattle goes, This only seems to show when weather gets colder as during summer its not there, no fault codes or warning lights have ever shown up,
The car is mostly used with shell diesel, engine oil and filter changed recently as it was happening before I changed it. Not done fuel filter yet but next on my list.
could it be glow plugs?... Read more
You may have a worn or faulty fuel injector. The purpose of the pre injection phase, prior to the main injection phase is for noise reduction. A good scantool should be able to show the injection phases in respect of the ECM controlling them in graph form, but it cannot show how fuel is actually being injected. For that the injectors will have to be bench tested. Also if the injectors have ever been removed and refitted in a different order than before the operating codes may not be correctly entered into the ECM, meaning the ECM will not have the correct information to correctly operate each injector. This is worth checking.
Glow plugs are also for noise and emission reduction when the engine is cold, but they should switch off after a short while after startup. So if your problem occurs for more than a minute or so after starting a glow plug is not likely to be the cause.
I read in your review of the Honda CR-V (2012-) that somebody reported clutch failure on a 2.2 i-DTEC model at 10k miles. Well the clutch has also gone on my 13 plate 2.2 i-DTEC at 28k miles, and I too am facing a bill approaching £2k to replace the clutch and flywheel.
Honda are so far refusing to pay up despite the car still being under warranty. They claim it's down to driver style, yet we've never had to replace a clutch on any previous car in over 30 years of motoring, despite owning some to relatively high mileages/ages.
On top of this we're looking at a 5 week wait for parts as Honda don't currently have any replacement clutches for the 2.2. Read more
Try this honda dealer - they can usually source parts quickly.
Has anyone got any experience with buying from them? The car I'm looking at is a 2014 Ford fiesta zetec s and has low milage. I've checked my local dealer Evans Halshaw and for the same money Ford want, my money would get a car a year older with far more miles on the clock. I've also read its generally better to get from a main dealer rather than franchise, after reading about Evans Halshaw its left me in doubt buying from them.
Also the car still has a warranty until 2017, would having it checked by the Rac/AA be overkill? Again I've read mixed reviews regarding doing this.
I can barely find anyone when searching online who've done this. I'm expecting little niggles and things and have read the franchise dealers buy this stock too, so I'm unsure what to do.
Thanks for any help. Read more
I would agree re not using trust ford, I will not supply through them as they don't communicate and screwed up a couple of orders for us.
I have seen one of these cars here in Wiltshire. Are they now on sale in the UK? Read more
Cyd - Please do tell o great one! We mere mortals just cannot see as the all seeing eye does!
I think he's hinting it's a spam message...but not sure why they think that??
Hi, are there any car mechanics who can answer this please? I've just bought a 2012 (62) 1.6 Ti-VCT (petrol) Ford Focus and have a couple of queries to ask please. In the owner's manual it says to check the engine oil level before you start the engine. It also says that if you check the oil level on the dipstick when the engine is hot then the level may exceed the maximum mark due to expansion. What do both these statements mean? Do you get an accurate reading on the dipstick if you check it just after switching the engine off - do you need to leave the car on level ground overnight or does (as my Ford mechanic tells me) all the engine oil in the "top" of the engine almost immediately drain into the sump so that you can get an accurate reading even on a hot engine. The oil is 5w 30.
Also how far (in mm) over the maximum mark on the dipstick would the oil level have to be in order to cause oil seal leaks and aeration of oil problems i.e. for the crankshaft to come into contact or be immersed in the engine oil?
Would it need to be at least 25mm or more? What symptoms would the driver notice when driving?... Read more
I sometimes wonder if this uncomprehending poster's first language is English.
That type of comment could be considered racist, does not bother me but might bother some....
Hi
Wondering if anyone could advise. Last week my 207 gave me a 'low screen wash' warning, so I topped up and it was fine. On a short journey a few days later it flashed up with braking and power steering faulty but then they went and there was nothing for a week driving every day about 80 miles up and down the motorway so I assumed a blip., then a few days ago the drivers headlight died and it's not the bulb. I haven't touched the car for a couple of days and when I got in this morning its warning me about faulty breaks, faulty ABS and faulty power steering. The red stop light is on and no mileage showing.
I've checked the fuses and can't see anything obvious (am absolutely not an expert though) and the break fluid reservoir is on the right line. I have no idea what to do and am worried about driving it. Also really worried about how much this will cost to fix!
I bought the car just over a year ago from a third party dealer so guess Peugeot won't be helpful..
If anyone could help I'd be grateful... Read more
Have you not even had the earth wire burn out in the rear cluster yet? :-)
Interesting discussions with my local dealer and Audi UK yesterday concerning changing of the timing belt and water pump.
Dealer said that computer was showing that belt and pump needed changing as mileage was 76,000. However, my book states to change them at 133,000 miles and no time option.... Read more
Judging by the amount of VAG waterpumps where the plastic impellors have cracked and fallen off, I would think it is a good practice to change the pump.
You can't beat a metal impellor.
My car is 2011 model and suffers occasional flat battery due to low usage and parasitic drain. I'm trying to decide on best battery - at the moment I'm considering Bosch S4 or Varta AGM ( very expensive ) Read more
You say you have low usage. Any battery will suffer from this. Get a battery conditioner and hook the car up whenever it's parked up at home. I have to do this with my Saab for the same reason. I have a plug in Draper conditiioner it was about 20 quid.
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No oil level on the washing machine far as i'm aware, but do have to check the oil level on, and will have to do an oil change on my pressure washer at some point next year believe it or not, 15w40 specified, it'll be getting 10w40 of which i will have some kicking about and lumping it.
It's many years since i played Santa, too grumpy now i suspect to pass muster, i shall never forget the look in or the size of my little lads eyes when he caught Santa in full regalia leaving some pressies in his bedroom, he's a big lummox who nows drives tankers and his little 3 year old girl is exactly the same age as he was when he caught me back then....