April 2015
Hi lads and lasses, my daughter tells me her car is doing something od so on inspection when you rev the car and the rev counter is going down it goes right down as tho its going to stall but has a bounce about two or three times then is ok never actually stalls. I have read a lot of posts about this AFM but have no idea where it is or what it looks like. What I'm after is some sort of help or diagram of where to look or start don't get me wrong I can do most things on a car but never come across this one so would like some advice please Read more
hi help needed my battery went flat on my KA all sorted but radio code needed the serial number is m033503 any ideas Read more
Well middle daughter is learning to drive. She is making good progress but needs to do a little practice between lessons. Lady at work was selling her 2006 Renault Clio Dynamique 1.2 16v and Clio was purchased. Sorted insurance (Fluxinsure) and all well. Daughter is learning in a 2013 Clio diesel and just cannot get used to the jerkiness of driving a petrol Clio. Additionally I have nicknamed the car 'Forth Bridge' because as soon as I fix one thing something else goes. Wiper motor, window regulator and now it needs a CV joint. Looked today at a clean 05 Focus 1.4 and tomorrow I have arranged to view an 08 Megane Dci. Car needs to be insurance friendly and safe. Read more
Blimey, that's a coincidence!
We bought our daughter a 2007 Clio 1.2 petrol to learn to drive on (and then run) a couple of months back....
I have this very irritating noise coming from the rear of my Scirocco when I bring the car to a stop. It happens when the wheels have actually stopped and the momentum of the car body (having been moved forward whilst braking) then "sits" back. There is no noise whilst braking,there is no noise when I hit bumps in the road from the rear suspension. This noise is like a squeak/creak and has been going on for the last 18 months+. Last summer due to a broken pad ( original VW) scoring the disc I had the rear discs and pads changed ( Mintex), all was fine for about 3 weeks then started to make exactly the same noise again. If I brake hard the the noise disappears, if I drag the hand brake for say 50 yards the noise disappears. VW want to strip all of my brakes down, my local (trusted) mechanic has had a look and could only suggest putting a softer compound pad on the rear brakes. As pointed out when the pads are hot either by braking hard or dragging the hand brake the creak will disappear until the have cooled down the start again. the noise has been there through two MOT's and 3 services and they have found nothing not even an advisory pointing to the suspension. The mileage is a little over 24000.
Any idea's? Read more
have read old forums/posts as I too had a persistant squeak (like chirping sound) from the engine of my corsa - no specific time it made this noise but went on and off with and without acceleration etc. After it went on for a while a local garage advised it was the serpentine belt and so this was changed as well as the tensioner but it still squeaked! The garage said it needed time to "bed in" or it could possibly be the air conditioning pump, the water pump and the list went on and on! Not wanting to throw good money after bad (and wasn't convinced about the "bedding in" comment) so took it to another mechanic who checked over and couldn't tell me either although he took the belt off and said there was still a squeak so it wasn't any of the pumps the other garage listed. Also there wouldn't have been anyhting wrong with the belt! Drove for a wee while longer and then there was another "fluffing " type noise started- took it straight back to mechanic who immediately diagnosed it as a faulty fuel injector - checking this out and it was the case (actually two had gone) and so he put back refurbished fuel injectors and washers etc and hey presto - no more sqeak!! The sqeak noise had been the air pushing through the knackered fuel injector and then when it worsened, the second noise started. This real mechanic saved me 100's of pounds - just thought I would share this as a lot of the other old posts went through the same as I did (but spending money unnecessarily) which is all very frustrating.
I would have attached this comment on to past posts but can't see how... Read more
After just having had the cambelt changed at my local main dealership, I have been told that the NSF wheel bearing is wearing (80k) although I can't hear any noticeable noise when driving.
They have quoted just under £500 for the repair as it comes as a complete assembly with the hub.... Read more
The bearing does come as a complete unit. This makes it an easy job by removing the normal fight to get the bearing free, it's simply 4 bolts. The Job should be a few hours at best and the unit is about £80.
So i would shop around as £300 is my guess.
Could I get my code for Ford Fiesta RDS 4500 radio please, serial number M066141 ?
Chris Read more
I have a 2008 SEAT Alhambra – it has done 46500 miles. I have a problem with the drive. In the last year (15,000 miles), I’ve had 3 sets of disks and pads because the disks have warped. In attempt to find the cause, the drive flanges were replaced 7000 miles ago. But the disks went again, and in another attempt to isolate the cause, last week, the drive shafts were replaced, along with disk set number 3. At the same time I replaced the front tyres and had them balanced and the tracking done. There is still a perceptible tremor felt through the seat and the steering wheel when accelerating - as before, this disappears completely when I take my foot off the accelerator. Today I’ve swapped front and back tyres (all have good tread) to try to isolate the cause – but the same perceptible tremor is still there. What can it be? And whatever it is, is it causing the disks to warp? From the gearbox outwards, just about everything has been renewed. I’d very much appreciate your help.
... Read more
Vibration that comes and goes at different speeds suggests some 'out of balance' item is triggering a resonant frequency of the suspension.
Years ago it was quite common for some cars to have steering wobble at say 50mph but it would smooth out at 60mph. Often cured by new shock absorbers, sometimes worn steering ball joints or trackrod ends/bushes....
I am not of British origin and did not grow up in this country.
So, I don’t have an experience of being kids in this country thus don’t know how adults reacts.... Read more
I am sure you are right, although my friends' children eat the healthiest diet imaginable (home grown veg in abundance, not fizzy pop) and still rush around as if demented. I think there is a certain amount of youthful energy in children, that needs to be burnt off. I am sure a poor diet makes them much worse. I know someone who eats junk food, and one of his kids is diabetic. The poor lad eats the junk food. Cooking is not so hard, as I am sure you know. Buying decent food is not so hard.
Hi I have a 54 plate fiesta. Lately when trying to start engine if it's cold or wet it only fires up if I hit the accelerator at the same time otherwise it won't start up. It also cuts out when slowing down at junctions and again only starts up if I turn ignition and Rev engine at same time. Once it's been running a while it doesn't cut out when slowing down.
Any idea what this could be? Thanks Read more
It's just anytime it's cold and wet or both. When problem occurs only way engine stays running is if the engine is revved whilst ignition is turned so I won't be able to check at same time.
Thing is it cuts out when it isn't cold or wet so makes no sense to me. It's really annoying though,
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This will be a K12 Micra which does not have an Afm.(air flow meter).Poor idle could be related to a variety of problems,including a worn timing chain.I would suggest get a diagnostic check done to see if there are any relevent fault codes logged.Also the car may need a throttle flap clean ,followed by a base idle reset (done via the diagnostic system).