December 2010
Hi there,
Currently replacing a burnt out heating control panel and wiring. Also trying to assess condition of matrix and resistor. I thought the matrix that sits under the bonnet was for the heater, but I have read that it is actually behind the fascia. I looked for the resistor in the passenger side compartment above the heater fan unit, but can't see anything there.
Can you confirm for me the exact location of both the heater fan and the matrix? Read more
Ive been out to see a 2002 civic type R with a fault coming up after a slight bump. The car was span in the snow into a snow drift, no major damage other than tracking off a couple off degree's. However the engine managment light came on. Ive plugged it in and at first had 2 faults, one for crank sensor and one for Cam sensor bank 1. Cleared them no problem but the cam sensor keeps coming back. The car starts and drives fine other than the lack of vtec due to the fault code causing a limp mode. Ive checked and theres no visible damage to wiring, nothing that could of pulled at it during the bump etc and the sensors are in and secure.
Read a lot about this fault coming up with worn or jumped timing chains, is this likely with a bump like this? It literally nudged into the side off the road nearside front wheel first. Does anyone know how to test the sensors or is there a pick up behind the snsor that could of slipped? Read more
Hi, just read your thread regarding your type-R. I would firstly use a Oscilloscope to check the output signal from the cam sensor is correct. I would check this straight out the back of the sensor and also at the ECU input terminal. Also check for any noise (unwanted electrical signal) in the wires. Check the air gap and rotor to make sure there is not physical damage to the wheel the sensor reads off. If the both the crank and cam sensor show faults, your bump might have physically damaged something by pushing the drive shaft into the box......only a wild stab in the dark but possible! Both the cam and crank sensors can be checked at the same time using a scope and this will tell you if the engine is operating correctly or if it is out of phase. Meaning, viewing the waveforms of both sensors might indicate a physical problem with the cam/crank timing.
Other then that, It would be worth checking the wiring / connection blocks around the vehicle.
It’s been an intermittent fault since I bought it less than a year ago. Now it’s refusing to budge even after an hour of trying to catch the backward turn to get it to go. I’ve got a quote for £117 for a new barrel/keys but my mechanic says it’s a huge job. Has anyone had this done? What king of cost am I looking at? Thanks Read more
I've just done this job on our 1998 Voyager, straightforward with a good light a pozi 2 and plain small screwdriver. You have to be able to turn the key one last time to get the barrel out. Searching the ether consistently came up with the advice to tap the key to encourage the stuck wafers in the cylinder mechanism to fall into place, after a lot of tapping eventually the key turned. Once it is turning do not remove it as this will reset the wafers in the locked position. I left the key in position it will not lock again. I disconected the battery. I undid the plastic cowel around the lock by removing 3 pozi headed screws from underneath the plastic cover, separated the 2 halves of the cover which clip together at the sides, the top stayed place and removed the lower half. Look up towards the lock barrel, and I could see a small square metal button. While pressing this button gently in (up) I turned the key towards the run position slowly, when it gets to approximately the accessory position the button pressed in and the lock and key withdrew out. You could then take the whole lot to a locksmith who would then fix the lock and hopefully leave you with the same key as I think they are chipped. I decided to take it to bits myself. At the key end are 2 sping loaded plungers that locate the cylinder in the various switch positions. I pressed one of these down and could over rotate the cylinder so it was released from the barrel. Once out it was evident that it was the first 2 wafers that were sticking. Some careful cleaning and lubrication freed them up. I took care not to loose the spings and plungers and a very small lever that the tip of the key bears on that were released when the cylinder comes out of the barrel. If I'd lost these then it would be a trip to the breakers. I reassembled it all and it works. As it was the first 2 wafers that were sticking it may have been possible to free and lubricate then down the key hole with good vision and a good light but getting the barrel out was suprisingly easy.
Hi all,
My car has been fine today, then when i got home it wouldn't lock.... Read more
I have recently purchased a 2002 Volvo V70 SE fitted with the 140bhp petrol engine.The log book came back today from the DVLA and it is listed as a V70 S 20v.
I have a feeling this is the 170bhp version whereas mine has only 10v. If this is the case I need to get it changed! It is very likely that the two previous owners have been paying too much for their insurance.... Read more
Many thanks for this to all. It's a bit difficult to check right now as it is covered in a foot of snow!
Useful suggestions though. Will check and see....
Can I get winter tyres to fit the alloys my Cooper? Read more
best option is to find some steel wheels to fit the front and stick snow tyres on them to match the rolling radius of your current tyres.
NO NO NO!!! Be careful - if you use just 2 snow /winter /cold weather tyres on the front then it will swap ends when braking etc. Modern winter tyres have so much more grip than ordinary "summer" tyres in cold weather /snow /ice etc - I reckon you must use all 4 tthese days.
I recently bought an 07 Fiat panda 100hp,my problem is with the brakes which seem very sensitive when you put pressure on the pedal,it makes you feel very wary when braking at the last minute especially in this snowy conditions,is this normal? can any thing be done to make driving my panda more enjoyable.?regards Eric Cantona. Read more
Hello all, this is my first post. My local Mazda agent is proposing to repair an open circuit screen heater element track using "electrically conductive paint". I have come across something similar to this before, but only for repairing low current items such as pcbs. Will this be a proper fix? (The car is still under warranty.) Read more
If its still under warranty then he should be fitting a new window,if its a used car warranty then I still thing he should fit a new window.
I have recently purchased steel wheels, with winter tyres on them, to replace the 16 in alloys on my Focus Zetec. Do I need different nuts or can I use the ones provided with my alloys? Read more
On Fords,it is normally possible to use nuts for alloys on steel wheels but not the other way around;bolts are something else.
I have 225-50-17 tryes on my 2010 S-Max
I need to know what is best size for snow tyres, also do I need to buy new wheels as well. Help please. Read more
You can fit winter tyres direct on your existing rims,if you decide to buy steel wheels then the profile of the wheel is 7 J 17 H2 .
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The heater matrix is enclosed in the heater box casing located behind the dash .Very little of it can be seen.The heater fan is located behind glovebox,access from pass footwell.The fan speed resistor is located at the top of the fan blower casing and access is from the engine bay,rear bulkhead area ,near wipers.There is usually a plastic cover over the scuttle panel.This is for a manual control system.The semi auto system is slightly different in as much as the fan speed controller is by the blower motor.hth