November 2009
iam currently in the process of having my car assessed for repair as a non fault claim. the fault driver originally wanted to pay for my car to be repaired to avoid affecting his long no claims.
after getting a number of quotes from countless body shops the average seemed to be around the £1,200 mark, needless to say the fault driver quickly changed his mind and opted for the insurance route.
at this point i am still waiting to here back from the insurance assessor regarding his valuation of repair.
it has taken a while and iam now worried that they may go down the right off route due to the age of the car. the car in question is a 1999 Peugeot 406 T.D with 66.000 miles and a full service history.
which in my mind is still a serviceable vehicle with a hell of alot more motoring and miles ahead of it. regardless of this though most people I've spoken to about this have stated that it will probably be written off by the assessor due to its age.
I've heard people talk about buying the car back off the insurance company (if this is indeed possible) and can i ask for more than they are offering for a settlement if i think that it is not acceptable??
having never had a car written off i really don't know what my rights are regarding this and would appreciate any advice.
thanks all. Read more
A colleague and I are planning a 10 day demo trip to northern Germany next month. It's just occured to us that most cars in Germany run on winter tyres at this time of year, but obviously our company van is on normal UK spec rubber.
What's the reality of the situation? Are we likely to have any problems over there? Should we be thinking of hiring something more suitable, or do we just need to be careful? Do we need chains? Thoughts welcome... Read more
I'm writing this mail from my temporary apartment in Hamburg. It's wet and windy here, but no snow. There is no legal requirement in Germany to have winter tyres based on the time of year but there is a legal requirement to have tyres suitable for the conditions. In practice the climate in northern Germany is much more temperate than in the South and winter tyres are not so widespread here.
In Austria you legally have to have winter tyres fitted from the beginning of November to the end of March and snow chains are considered an enhancement to winter tyres, not a replacement.
Take a look at: tiny.cc/DQB0n for an example of just how quickly things can go wrong. Read more
Discussion already in progress somewhere - I'll dig it out and link it in shortly.
Hi all
I have a problem that you may well have heard before. Been running a banger for the last 3 years (L-reg Rover 216, picked up for free off a relative - only done 84K, 40 of which have been in the last 3 years!) which has cost us a couple of hundred pounds a year on average to keep roadworthy, in addition to MOT and regular servicing costs.
However - after some brake problems, the local indy has said that we're looking at £600 to get it through the next MOT, which is not due till May. I can only imagine that it'll be an upward spiral from here.
So - bite the bullet and keep with a banger that costs us quite a bit to maintain, but has literally no value left to lose?
Or go scrappage? I've heard that in many cases you get a better deal on a new car without the scrappage deal, depending on the car you're buying. I have a natural scrooges fear of depreciation, hence the banger...
We also use an 05 Golf TDI which is lovely to drive, however that will go back to girlfriends brother in March. Driving that for the last 2 weeks has made me fall in love with diesels again. Read more
Given it's the Honda engine, which is not known for HGF, I would agree with stu - get a second opinion or at least a clear understanding of why they think it's HGF.
These Honda engines are normally good for 200+k before you even need to think about anything other than routine maintenance. The ignitor units blow, but otherwise they really are problem free.
"Optimium" for the ever increasing electrical demands, plus Citroens combined starter/generator--hybrid drive arrangment on the flywheel housing? Read more
You can search for "42 Volt Power Net" and get lots of information or en.wikipedia.org/wiki/42-volt_electrical_system on wiki
About a year ago I posted a few times about changing our second car... a 1998 Citroen TD. After three weeks of looking and not finding anything we re-MOT'd the Citroen at a cost of £350 and it has happily done another year with just the cost of oil and a filter. Now this year it definately has to go. It has no ABS, only one airbag, suspension is now worn at 150K... it's had its time and owes us nothing. Intend to Ebay the old car and have funds to hand for replacement.
Been looking for a few weeks now and what to get is driving us mad. Thinking of a 2005-on Focus/Astra or a C4.... got to be diesel.
Could get an auction/private higher mileage bargain for around £3500 but many seem more tatty and less well equipped than the old Citroen.
Next thought was to spend £6000 at a dealer on 2006/7 with around 50K mls. But a bit shocked at the level of dings and scuffs in this price range. So we then looked at main dealers with good warranties (Citroen/Network Q etc) in the £8500 range.
Cars looked loads better with mileages nearer 25K but....
The inevitable step has to be considered.... a new car with £3000 scrappage on the old Citroen, 3yrs warranty and a 3yr service package levered into the deal plus 0% finance which would allow savings to be left in the bank for a bit longer.
Now quite confused. Any thoughts on car choice in the Focus/Astra class and best price level to buy at much appreciated.
Read more
Sadly bb I've had bad personal experiences with several Renaults and I don't like the local dealer so they are off the list.
Interesting to hear what you are up to Richard. I must admit a new Xsara Picasso is an amazing deal in terms of room/flexability/comfort per £. We really don't need the extra family space in the second car though so as long as a hatch will take three medium size teens in the back for local runs that's good enough.
Actually the fen roads are a problem for comfort.... straight and free from incline but the unstable ground means they shift and subside on a monthly basis giving some shocking lurching. Several times a year my regular school run across open rural roads will produce a dip that eventually bottoms out the suspension at 50mph... at which point the highways folks will fill it in with another few tons of tarmac... which in turn sinks even quicker into the peat soil... and so it goes on.
Hi, can anyone tell me where the idle screw is 0n a 1.4 16v civic with a carburretor.
As the idle is to slow and needs to be adjusted slightly.
Many thanks.
Stuart. Read more
Thanks , will have a look in the morning.
Looked once before but could only find the choke speed adjuster.
Regards
Stuart.
SWMBO and I spent a few days at the weekend discussing changing our cars and agreed that we would wait till the 5008 was out for hers, and that mine would wait till after the summer. Today saw and drove a car I really would like. Typical! Its a black 59 plate C5 saloon VTR+, 50miles on the clock. Took it for a spin and now prepared to do a deal. The dealer is a very nice chap, and he was very apologetic as he was run off his feet, so he will call back tomorrow.
Mine to P/E is 57 plate Megan Estate, 1.9 CDi, Dynamique trim, 130bhp in metallic black with FSH, but 45,000miles.
His is on for £13500, I think to change cost should be around £6000 (giving £7500 for mine) - is that fair? On AT site a 57 Megan Estate is on for £9k
Also thinking of getting my company to buy it as its only the 1.6, so low emissions - anywhere I can look for good advice on company purchase (first timer)? Company is mine BTW, and generally I don't pay tax - just earn a minimum and dividends.
I know many of you will say don't - get a used Audi/BMW etc, but apart from the Merc C class I really didn't rate their quality of drive all that much. and that is out of my league. Read more
I sad I would let folk know what happened.
No deal. Not because dealer didn't call - he did - twice. But I fell ill. Real flu'. My documents were at home 230 miles away and I got train home (infecting the whole carriage i guess!) as I wasn't fit to drive. Planned to return to dealer on the Monday, but instead confined to bed for 3 days and not really thinking for 5.
By the time I'd come round, sorted myself out and finances and my business I called the garage - who had sold it as I hadn't replied to the dealers messages on my phone (which was switched off as it was my work mobile!).
So back to looking for a nice nearly new C5 where I can get reasonable P/e for the Megan or even trade in the Espace....
Have booked flights for me and her to take a month down under. We have "rellies" in Melbourne and Sydney. I'd be interested to drive from either city to Ayres Rock. Anyone done that? If so, what was it like? Interesting/boring? easy/tough?
Got a spanking good deal via ebookers on business class with Qatar Airways. Probably find its an outside loo for the price I paid.
Cheers Read more
I drove the Melbourne Uluru Melbourne loop over fifteen days or so in July 2005 with two friends who live in Melbourne. We headed out via Ballarat, then Adelaide, Woomera (for the museum of the British space programme, not the infamous detention cntre I hasten to add) , Lake Eyre, Oodnadata (check out the Pink Roadhouse and its amazing display of worn tyres), Alice Springs, Uluru, the Olgas. Back via Leigh Creek and the Great Ocean Road. Throughly enjoyable. On the way we kept following bits of the Old Ghan railway (on another trip we visited the Pichi Richi railway at Quorn and that is worth a day if you have time and it is running) and we were also sworn in a temporary posties to delver some mail at one point. We had tents and either camped or stayed in motels. Oh and an underground hotel in Coober Pedy.
There is plenty to see and do should you tire of driving on empty roads. I would suggest a Lonely Planet or too for some research.
hi
car was running on what seamed like 3 cylinders, managed to get it home then it cutout
AA man diagnosed coil pack, which had cracked and melted. Replaced coil pack car ran fine, engine needs service soon light went out,
week later problem back coil pack has a large crack in it and the car is running on not many cylinders
help please Read more
not normally but can't think of anything else. But plugs and leads are a common issue and are a service item so if it was mine I would get them change.
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To buy another car like yours will cost you 1600 - 1700 quid. There is your target.