November 2009
Anyone out there know if it's possible to replace the end bushes on the front anti-roll bar without taking the whole thing off the car (as suggested by Mr Haynes!)? The bushes look as if they're 'driven' on to the bar at each end and, with 140,000 miles on the clock I would think they're not gonna come off without a fight! Any advice would be very welcome. (The engine is a C14SE, if it's relevant). Read more
hi there, i have just bought a 97 dispatch 1.9 diesel, when driving i found there is no power, it does bout 50mph flat out and takes about a week to get there, its dangerousley under powered as i found out at a junction, are all the non turbo versions like this or is it just this one, any ideas or if any 1 has had similar problem, any help would be greatley appreciated Read more
Well done, I overlooked the obvious, throttle not fully opening!
Hi,
Over a year a go my Clio 1.4 RT randomly cut out as I pulled up to a junction. After restarting the engine, the revs would drop and the engine cut off, it wouldn't hold. After my mechanic had it for about 3 weeks and replaced the idle control valve, which apparently blew up on a cold start and he had to clean and replace my old one, it was returned. He told me it was a problem with the ECU and that it wasn't worth fixing. Every morning, for over a year, on a cold start the revs wouldn't stick and it would cut out until the engine was warm. Almost every time I pulled up to a junction or traffic lights the revs would cut out. 3 months ago a mechanic who is a friend of mine took it in for some work needed for my MOT. He ran a diagnosis on it which showed up as, 'idle control valve open circuit'. He told me he would be able to fix it so he, again, replaced the idle control valve. It then wouldn't tick over at all! He replaced the old valve but the car would randomly rev up and wouldn't pass emitions test. I therefore had to declare it SORN as I couldn't tax it! He removed the ECU and sent it to Renault who reported no fault, informing him it would be the wiring. I’ve now been without a car for 3 1/2 months and he doesn't know what to do now. I can’t even use it for part-ex or scrap page scheme and I’m at my wits end!! Please does anyone know what I can do or try next?? The, KTS, (I think) the diagnosis computer shows 'Idle control valve open circuit' that’s all I know. Any help would be appreciated.
Thank you
Adam Rice
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By any chance did you get this fixed? As i am having the exact same problem, hat i have found out though is that the two coils on the stepper motor are different then the ones that the car is outputting.
i have a groaning noise from the front of my touran. it sounds like springs turning on the spring mounts. none of them are broken. when the car is jacked up the sound goes away. none of the ball joints look to be worn. the link arms seem ok. any idea,s would be greatly appreciated. cheers rich Read more
There has been considerable discussion about scrapping older "classic" cars to obtain the £2000 allowance. Currently only cars first licenced before 1972 are eligible for road tax exemption. This means that there are cars of up to 35 years old that have to pay the full £190 annual road tax. These same cars may in fact only do a few hundred miles a year and the owners may not feel it is therefore worth keeping them.
I have written to my MP to say that the older car industry is worth a lot of tax and keeps people in jobs. Who else can I complain to?
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Either way, politicians speak with forked tongue, they're too busy looking after themselves to look after the country or the people who voted them in
Hi,
My Dad has a '98 Merc C240 Elegance Auto owned from new, fully serviced at independent and showing only 66K. Intermittent fault is when accelerating hard from standstill with the box in Drive, sometimes the gearbox seems to lock in 1st gear - car will only do about 20mph and engine revving high. So far when it's happened, switching car off then restarting cures problem, and pulling away more gently.
Independent garage has run Merc diagnostics which come back all clear, any ideas? Would just a fluid flush do the trick - he's looking at over £1,500 just for a recon box so if there's a specialist in South East please let me know!
Thanks in advance,
Cheers
Al Read more
I would be looking at a possible engine management fault here before condemning the gearbox.A faulty/out of range maf (air flow sensor) can give the symptons of a fault with the auto box.hth
Duplicate thread removed and replies transferred to the exact same thread in Technical Matters Read more
Hi,
Hope you can help.
I have a 1.4 Vauxhall Corsa D, 18 months old with only 5000 on the clock.
Yesterday, when I was driving along (I think I was in third gear), I pushed down on the clutch to change gears and there was a very slight resistance - then a clunk noise. I could still change gear okay but somehow it doesn't feel the same. The biting point feels different and it juddered this morning in first gear.
What could have caused the clunk in the clutch pedal - how do you tell if the "clutch has gone".
Advice appreciated. (Car is still under warranty) Read more
there has been instances of the clutch pedal return spring breaking (have you found a small piece of metal in the drivers footwell) however sound advice from previous post take it to dealers register that you have/had a problem at least if there is further problems its recorded with them,Regards TB
00 2.0 high pitch rattle - glowplug
It's a long shot but does it have a damped crankshaft pulley?
If so paint a line across it and keep checking to see if the line becomes mis-aligned. If that happens have the pulley replaced before it flings the aux belt into the timing belt and wrecks the engine.
Steve.
steve you were wright. it looks like the bottom pulley is the cause of the rattle. is it a big job to remove the bottom pulley???. does the cam belt need to be removed or is the auxillery belt seperate???
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Yes the kit I refer to is a bit expensive to use for one job. Thanks for your reply.
I need to change the timing belt on my Focus 1.8 tddi. This is a job I have done several times over the years without any problems and am quite confident about doing it. However, this is the first car I have had where a Clavis guage is needed to set the tension. I know these are expensive, and I can't find anywhere that hires them. I notice, though, on the Clavis website there is a formula for converting the frequency to a tension in Nm. I was wondering about using this and then setting the tension using a standard belt tension guage. Is this a good/bad idea, and how accurately would I need to weigh/measure the length of the belt? Are there any other ways to accurately set the tension i.e. without risking the belt failing or drastically shortening its life? Thanks Read more
After 2001 an automatic timing belt tensioner is fitted. This can now be fitted to pre 2001 models so there is now no need for a clavis gauge. Just make sure that when you buy a belt kit it has the automatic tensioner as some come with the manual tensioner.For fitting instructions just follow the 2001 onwards manual.
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It was the RH D-bush bracket/holder/retainer wot dunnit (cracked)!! I haven't changed it yet but plan to as soon as the weather permits (I'll replace both rubber bushes at the same time). Very many thanks for the diagnosis - you've saved me wrestling with the 'pendulums' (which clearly wouldn't have cleared the fault!). PS looks as if I'll have to go to Vauxhalls for the retainer - can't find 'em anywhere on ebay etc. Many thanks again for your help, topbloke!