October 2009
Hi folks. First of all this is my first post as I am new to the forum. From reading other posts regarding the pd engine there seems to be many people with a great deal of know how. Hoping some of you can help me.
I recently purchased a pd130 passat. Lovely car, very smooth. When inspecting the engine area I noticed a great deal of oil 'sweat' under a boost pipe connection. It's the pipe under the PAS Bottle and above some sort of chassis member. That's exactly where the join in the pipe is. There is a top layer of fresh oil on top of the 'sweat' and by the looks of it, it has been there for some time. I took a rag to it and the layer of gunk was quite thick. It is physically possible to pull the two sections of pipe apart just slightly but they do seem to be connected and not just pushed together. Also beside the boost pipe is a very thin pipe although I have no idea what that pipe is for. Is this the pipe that is prone to splitting I have noticed people mention?
My question is, should there be that great amount of leaking oil from a boost pipe that is after the turbo yet before the EGR? I'm worried that the turbo may be leaking too much oil into the engine. When I purchased the car the oil level was barely touching the dip stick!
The car was in for a Timing belt change and since getting it back it just doesn't feel as fast. Before, the Traction control light would flash when pulling away in 1st from a rolling start but not any longer. It is lacking the surge it once had. I have also noticed that the turbo is more audible since coming back from the garage. Not a whistle but a whoosh noise. Doesn't really sound like a leak as it's not a hissing sound but deffo more whooshing coming from it and it's deffo from the turbo end and not the pipe inder the PAS bottle.
You guys think the mechanic disturbed a pipe whilst ripping the front end to bits in order to get to the timing? Or perhaps the turbo is slowly dying?
Sorry for the long winded post but I'm a little worried and don't want to be faced with an engine running away and me having to try and stall it to stop it exploding.
Any thoughts or opinions greatly recieved.
Steven Read more
My mental arithmetic is not what it was. I used to be pretty good at the usual quiz time mathematical conundrums but age is taking its toll.
What has this got to do with motoring, I hear you ask. Well, I took delivery of a Mazda 6 TS earlier this week and, so far, I am more than happy with it - in fact it is absolutely superb. However, the trip computer is causing me problems. The fuel consumption figures are shown in 'Litres/100 miles'. This information means nothing at all to me. I seem to remember that there are 4.545 litres to the gallon but trying to convert that to gallons whilst driving through leafy Cheshire is more than I can manage. Is there an easy rule of thumb to make the conversion and (possibly more important) is there a work around to convert the trip computer to 'miles/gallon'. I can't find anything in the Owner's Handbook.
The other readings ('average speed 'and 'fuel left before empty' are in Imperial measures).
Help would be appreciated. Read more
282/litres per 100=MPG
282/mpg=litres per 100
hi all, ive never change a fuel filter on a diesel, do i need to fill the thing with diesel first? if so is it via the 'in' nozzle on the filter? Also where is the oil filter and washer pump on ths car, i want to change all filters but the washer has packed up, though the wipers still work so im guessing its not a broken fuse!
cheers Read more
The filter must be fully primed before attempting a re-start.
I use a 1 litre Wanner oil gun (splendid tool) as a suction tool on the filter outlet to draw fuel from the tank. One good pull is usually enough - use a translucent connecting pipe.
659.
My Dads car has just failed on the plates. They have a honeycomb background, he's had them for about 8 years! Been told a change of rules, any comments? They were Halfords. Read more
I don't see the problem. Being a biker I have a legal plate for mot time and day to day plate for the rest of the year, it's only a five minute job to change.
Hi
One of my brake ligkts has failed. I took the 2 bolts out of the rear lamp cover any tried to pull it off, but it just won't budge. Is there a trick to this. I don't really want to have to go to a garage for this, but neither do I want to do damage wrenching the cover off. Any tips?
Regards & Thanks
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That all looks a bit odd, something has gone horribly wrong somewhere on the keyboard - Let me try again, I removed the rear light cluster by removing the two bolts but it is a very tight fit and on assembly it is slid with 2 plastic pins into a couple of plastic locating sockets. Getting the cluster out of these sockets isn't easy and requires patience and as I said "short finger nails". When it does release it comes out with the need to catch the unit before any damage is caused.
Hi
can anyone help please, my heater does not seem to be working on my grand voyager also air con did not work during the summer, is this something that we could fix ourselves.
thanks
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I am having the same problem with my 2000 Voyager. I had no idea you could reset by pressing in those buttons. I did it, held it for 5 secs, and all the lighst flashed. I heard the panels open and closk (no clicking) but we still have no heat. Everything else works: new thermostat, blows air (cold), not the heater core, has enough fluid and dont smell it and windows dont fog up, dash gauge heats up to half way in just 2-3 minutes. This is very frustrating! Its cold outside, and me and my little boy freeze everywhere we go. What else could it be?
Hi All,
I have a two year old A4 Avant 2.0 TDI SE Multitronic being held for me, a pool car though I will have to keep it a while.
I have just found out that an A3 2.0 TDi S-line S-Tronic is coming up.
The A3 is newer and CR so more refined no doubt, also lower CO2 saving £60 ish per month, I also prefer the S-Line spec.
The A4 has a bigger boot so is a better family car and has cruise control, otherwise I lean towards the A3.
Any thoughts? And any comments on the relative merits of Multitronic v S-Tronic?
Many thanks. Read more
Good choice. >>
Enjoy it.
Thanks DP, I hear about 25mpg and also 40mpg on a run, if I can get 30mpg across country and 40mpg at 75 on the motorway that will be great, wont feel too guilty then!
Hi
The horn on my diesel van does not work when the ignition is turned on, however, when it is turned off, the horn works.
I have been told that the problem might be with the BSI unit, but according to the wiring diagram in the Haynes manual, it is not wired through the BSI.
Is the diagram wrong, am I mis-reading the diagram, or does the horn somehow require some sort of signal from the BSI?
Any help to clarify or repair this fault would be greatly appreciated.
Read more
Hi The horn on my diesel van does not work when the ignition is turned on, however, when it is turned off, the horn works. I have been told that the problem might be with the BSI unit, but according to the wiring diagram in the Haynes manual, it is not wired through the BSI. Is the diagram wrong, am I mis-reading the diagram, or does the horn somehow require some sort of signal from the BSI? Any help to clarify or repair this fault would be greatly appreciated.
I had the same problem as many people on the internet and I have come here in the hope that someone can cure it in the same way. The problem was that the horn would work when the ignition was off but not work, or sometimes work intermittently, when the ignition was on. When I took off the steering cowl (not the steering wheel -- too scared of the airbag) I saw a wire going from the key barrel to the back of the steering wheel mounting, and a similar one to the wiring loom on the other side. I took these out, blew into them, pushed them well home and voila! fault cured in time for the MOT. If blowing doesn't work, I guess you could try electrical contact cleaner.
I looked on the internet before and found loads of people describing the problem but no-one really describing the cure, hence this reply. I hope this fix will cure your problem if you are having the same issues.
Hi Folks, I have a 53 plate 1.6 focus with 35K miles. Occasionally when i am driving the speedo and rev counter drop to zero and the trip meter and mileage just show dashes. The engine management light comes on. Besides that the car run's fine. anybody know how to fix this annoying Fault!! Read more
Thankyou all for the kind advice
I've just been given a fixed penalty notice - endorsable for dropping my daughter off just after a pedestrian crossing on the zigzags and told that even though I remained at the wheel with the engin running and hazards on that I was parked, thus would get 3 penalty points for a PC32 code. They insisted that I got out of the car leaving it in the "hazardous" position for which I had apparently got the notice for longer even though I offered to drive the few metres to a non zig zag area first. They also appeared to ignore another driver who appeared to do the same thing immediately in front of my vehicle and less than 2 metres from where I was standing, is there any way that I can avoid getting the points or penalty charge? Read more
Near to where I live they have rearranged the pelican crossing. The bus stop is now about 10 feet from the actual crossing. There is a properly painted 'bus stop' lettering and yellow border on the road but between this and the crossing is just one zig zag line. There is also a similar set up on the other side of the road with the other bus stop.
Apparently this is quite legal see regulation no. 22 here www.opsi.gov.uk/si/si1997/240001-a.htm#5
I find this a very strange thing to allow when ordinary cars aren't allowed to park on the zig zags.
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on the Passat the boost pipe runs across the front of the crossmember that has to be moved to change the belt. At either end are flexible hoses with the naff aluminium barbs and clip. One of these may be adrift.
When new, the barbs and clip pull up tightly but as the time passes the steel clip gnaws away at the softer aluminium and eventually they blow apart, usually at a most inconvenient time. If there is significant in-out movement at the joint renew it.
The oil is a normal phenomenon from the breather being blown about in the inlet tract by the shock waves or pulses from the induction exacerbated by exhaust gas from the egr system
These engines normally consume oil as it is a full synthetic with about as much body as spring water.....