October 2009
A lot of talk on the forum about renewing timing belts and their pullies etc.
Now I am no expert but I would have thought that engines now are well designed, efficient and so on, but it seems that their Achilles? heel is the timing belt. What other component in a car would cause so much damage if it failed suddenly?
Older cars have chains which seem to last the life of the engine and with no need of adjustment.
Also it is not an easy task on some cars to renew this. If it was just a case of slipping on a new belt (like in the old fan belt days), without dismantling half the car, then there would not be a problem.
Why do cars now have these belts, surely there is a more reliable way to design without a belt which deteriorates and a pully that wears out? Read more
Over the last few weeks, my car sometimes starts with what sounds like only 2 cylinders firing, it idles (almost stalling) at 500 revs, has pitifully little power (it couldn't get up a hill) and reaches 3000 revs around 20mph. Then, a bit later, after the engine has warmed up (but not as soon as it's warm) the problem clears itself and it runs normally.
It first misfired in May and I was told it needed new HT leads (which I had done straight away), plus the plugs were cleaned and checked. It behaved itself after that until a few weeks ago when this intermittent misfiring problem started again.
There are no warning lights on the dashboard when it has this problem. It only misfires when I start it up, never (yet) when I'm already driving and it doesn't do it every time I start it up (about 1 time in 10 at the moment but getting more frequent).
The breakdown mechanic who rescued me last time couldn't identify a problem (the engine was running normally again by the time he arrived) but he suggested it might be a problem with the coil pack, cold start valve or engine management. But I'd need someone to look at it while the misfire was happening for any hope of a diagnosis (and I can't predict when it will next misbehave).
Before I throw serious money at this, does anyone have any suggestions please? Read more
Having same problem with our MX (W reg). Intermittent back fire from stsart up. Lack of power. New leads has not solved the problem and doesn't show up on diagnostic testing. The garage can't identify the problem but again suggest coil pack. Has anyone had this done and if so, does it resolve the issues?
I've noticed quite a few scooters with two front wheels recently.
Obviously these are lot more complex because the whole thing still tilts.
I assume they are more expensive.
So what is the advantage of having two front wheels on a scooter?
Not having to put your foot on the ground?
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I've been abroad.
Saw a three wheeler, with two back wheels. It looked like a standard Peugeot 50cc jobby, but with what appeared to be a diff in the middle of the back axle.
We had a local case where a rider of one of those enclosed BMWs argued he didn't need a helmet. He won it. Would it have set a precedent?
Hi All,
Just found a dirty great big nail my tyre, took to a garage round the corner from work and they said they would sort it, put a new valve on and re-balance for a tenner.
Sounds like a fair price so I went for it. Anyone know how much such things usually cost?
A mate in work said a "large chain that does tyres and exhausts" that I actually don't mind using for some things would of charged me £14.95 plus £7.50 for Balance and valve? Surley not?
Thanks
Lee
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my local indi charges me £9
i'll bet you £10 i could walk round the block where you live and find a screw or nail inside of ten minutes, try it let usknow how you get on
Some say its environmentally unfriendly, blagh blagh blagh
Misted on thro a paint spray gun, very little needed
I say its recycling ( reduce , reuse etc etc)
it works too.
Is this because the acidic nature of used engine oil "pickles" the rusting steel?
jat
M
{made non make/model specific as could apply to any car and not just a Ford Galaxy} Read more
modern cars all with a design life of (say) 100K miles ?
That's not very many for a modern car!
My son has had a Ford Ka - P reg - for the last 2 yrs, he's nearly 20 so insurance is still an issue (1 yr NCB, will be 2 yrs in June). Unfortunately some so and so hit the Ka whilst my son was stationary but the individual is refusing to accept any responsibility - saying they both pulled away together and clipped each other, a blatent lie but no witnesses. Police called and breathalysed both drivers - both were fine - but just said it's a RTA with no witnesses "sort it out yourselves". Which on reflection was all they could reasonably do.
So we're stuffed. The Ka will cost more to fix (damaged door, wing) than it's worth so we're looking for something cheap to insure and hopefully a bit more robust.
I've read on here that the 1.6 8v is a pretty tough engine and it's only Group 4 insurance.
I've identified a Y plate 1.6 Club in silver with 85K miles A/C and MOT to 09/2010
and
a W plate 1.6LS in bottle Green with 89K with 6 months MOT
Same price for both 5 dr hatchbacks
Both are for sale at reasonably local independent garages, and both establishments have full workshop facilities and are long established businesses who both repair, service and sell cars.
Can anyone tell me the cambelt change interval, anything to watch out for on this model.
Is it a good choice? I've read the C by C but any owner or first hand experiences would be most welcome.
They are both up at £1695, which might seem high to some but here in rural Gloucestershire cars are dearer and a lot of the one's on ofer at around £1000 - £1200 had much higher mileages (120-150K) and were all at the type of "bombsite" dealers who
will probably be operating under a different name in 3 months time!
I hope to offer and pay £1500 which doesn't seem unrealistic??
Thank you for any advice
Jacks
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Good Honest workhorse, - not a drivers car but defintly a credible workhorse
I have owned one, its reliabilty (apart from a few resolveable issues) and cheapness of consumables (exhausts, brake pads etc) was a tick in my book
Im quite tall, and over long distances found it uncomfortable, i also found the suspension to stiff for my tastes, and the steering although nice and light absoultly no feedback from the road wheels, you are completly seperate from the road.
due to its oversized radiator it ran too cool in winter, but not really a problem in summer as a result of this and due to the short trips i did it had a bit of mayo under the fuel cap - a nice long run got rid of that.
if you do get one apperantly there was a software update that bypassed the EGR valve (although my Vauxhall dealer could not confirm whether mine was done or not, not even that there was actually a software update) apperntly this improves the running of the car
Pros
Still looks good
Releiable
Cheap
decent specs (air con etc)
roomy for your passangers and luggage (not quite so for me)
Good workhorse
Cons
Overcooled
(As Rattle has mentioned) Timing belt has to come off to change the thermostat
Not a drivers car
Daughter is concerned that her handbrake warning light has started coming on at random whilst driving. I'm assuming this is just a faulty switch - right? Read more
could be a concentric clutch problem
Hi
I was recently doing a long journey when an EPC warning light came on the dashboard. In the manual it says this is something to do with engine management and says take it to a dealer.
I called the RAC out who plugged in their computer but could find no problems with it.
I've just looked under the bonnet and the white round plastic container that holds the radiator water is a long way below the minimum level.
IS IT SAFE FOR ME JUST TO OPEN THE WHITE PLASTIC container and add PLAIN ORDINARY TAP WATER? Just as an emergency measure as I have to go out in the car shortly and it being Sunday won't find a VW garage open.
The manual says it has to be a mix of water and something else which I don't have. Will I cause damage if I just put ordinary water in it to tide me over?
Many thx Read more
Hi Dynamic Dave
Many thanks for your helpful reply.
Yes I guess there may be a leak somewhere and that might be why the EPC light came on in the first place. I will need to get it looked at but just wanted to make sure I could safely top it up for now to drive from A-B until I can get it into a garage.
Many thanks.
Having experienced my own 2003 Mazda 6 diesel engine cutting out mid-way onto a motorway, going round a round-about and even at a crossroads junction. I went looking for causes and found this website, this was a few months back. I see that many posters have had similar problems when idling and coming up to junctions etc. and the car completely cut out. This also happened to me and I was nearly killed once when pulling out onto a busy motorway, then the car completely cut out, steering locked the works. As any of you out there who have experienced this know, the car will not restart straight away, takes a few minutes before it will.
I had the car taken to Mazda diagnostics and it picked up a fault P0093 - Fuel system leak detected, Large leak and was told there and then that the diesel pump was gone (or going) and needed replaced. Even though the car was still driving fine and I was still getting over 500 miles to a full tank of diesel I thought I would leave the replacement for now. The car had a full service history (timing belt changed) before I bought it and over 70000 miles on the clock, now approx 90000. After talking to a retired diesel mechanic, I happend to metion this to him in regards to the cutting out, he imediately said fuel filter.
Now I dont know if this is of any help to anyone who has this happening to their own Mazda 6. But before you fork out for a new diesel pump or suction valve for the pump via Feather Diesel or wherever, I would advise you to check your diesel filter has been changed, this is why. My car had a full service history up until I bought it, but when we changed the fuel / diesel filter I found it to be very, very dirty inside and was also surprised to see it was a Denso fuel filter which lead me to believe it may never have been replaced from new, maybe some of you out there could tell me more? The replacement filter I had bought form Mazda, was Mazda branded, not Denso, so does anyone know if the diesel filters are changed as part of a normal service? I wouldnt like to think the fuel filter in my car had never been changed at all (in 6 years) as surprisingly since changing it, the car HASNT stalled once even when idling. Maybe this could account for a lot of the pump failures we read about - ie the pump struggling to deal with a dirty fuel filter. I have now marked the new filter and will see the next time when I get the car serviced if this has been changed.
It may be irrelevant and my cutting out fault may come back, but so far, so good!
Regards,
N-I Read more
Sorry if this has been covered before.My sons peugeot 106 independence ( 1.1 petrol)has just developed a fault.The speedo, rev counter and fuel gauge have simultaneously stopped working.I have checked all the fuses i can find, and none are blown.If any one has any ideas as to the problem that would be great.
regards
bernie Read more
The sensor is located on the top of the differential housing at the back of
the gearbox. You might just have a bad connection there, try unplugging it,
a spray with WD40, and replug.
Browse
>>> IMO, that is best done with the thinnest oil the manufacturer allows for that engine. <<<
Yep! and with a bit of rodent-research, I've decided on Castrol (now there's a surprise) Edge 0W-30 which is expensive @ £45 per 4ltrs but ... a hellova lot cheaper than a new timing chain :)
Thanks y'all for 'steering' me away from Magnatec.