October 2009
My partner and I bought a 2nd hand C3. 1.4 hdi sx
We seem to have a problem with the engine cutting out when ever my partner changes down a gear quickly or stopping at a junction. Its intermittent so difficult to reproduce, no fault displayed n the dashboard, but the electrics cut out too (like fan blower), my partner can sometimes 'catch' it and recover without it stalling. Seem to only happen when slowing down, like coming to a junction, realy strange, any ideas what could be wrong?
I do not know if this is related but she also makes a tapping / knocking noise when accelerating at low speed, which seems different to the usual diesel knocking noise.
Our last car was a basic Nissan Micra '94 1.0L, so we are not used to all these modern things, 'Partner wishes we stuck to the Micra, tending to agree!' as new spare key cost more than we got for the Micra! sob.... Read more
Hi guys I'm new to the forum just looking some advice for my Jag S type.
Its a year 2000 3.0l v6 auto petrol and sometimes when i try to start it (normally if i've been driving it for a bit then stop) i get nothing. Whether its in park or neutral i turn the key and nothing the car wont even try to turn over I just get dead silence. The battery is fine everything else is working perfectly radio etc but then after maybe 15-20 tries shifting between gears it will start randomly.
Any ideas? Thanks in advance. Read more
bit confused?
is it a rotary switch on the gearbox faulty ie the dirty end
or a micra switch on the bit under the console the clean end
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>>as its digital and there is no noticeable difference, yes i would.>>
Well we once had a session trying out cheap cables and expensive ones (up to about £40) at my mate's audio/visual/appliances outlet with some large screen LCD and plasma TVs and there was most definitely a difference in favour of the pricier leads...:-)
Hi, When my mondeo 2.0 TDCI (117k) is idling it has a rattling sound which sometimes disappears. It just sound like a loose plastic casement vibrating, but when I press the clutch down it stops, or if i lightly press the accelerator the noise eases off a little . Someone said this could be the thrust bearing or flywheel starting to go. Can anyone assist ?
Thanks Read more
I had this on my 55 Plate TDCI and a friend on his 04 one, both were cured by reprogramming the injectors.
Occasionally Ford release updates to the way in which the injectors behave, mine went bad, they reprogrammed it, and the car ran better and was more economical.
My reprogramming was done under warranty, my friend paid £12 for it, which it was in for other work.
Actually a 182 Renaultsport Clio. In my BILs car at the weekend and he suddenly lost control of the air conditioning /fan. Blowing hard all the time and not responding to the OFF button either. Going into a specialist today but what might have gone wrong? Coolant has never been topped up- could that be the problem or might it be a typical Renault obscure electrical fault.
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A 182 Clio Renaultsport is all I can remember.
Anyway, BIL has just told me the new module has sorted things out. Thanks for such a confident diagnosis elekie&a/c doctor.
Hi
can anyone help please, my heater does not seem to be working on my grand voyager also air con did not work during the summer, is this something that we could fix ourselves.
thanks
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I am having the same problem with my 2000 Voyager. I had no idea you could reset by pressing in those buttons. I did it, held it for 5 secs, and all the lighst flashed. I heard the panels open and closk (no clicking) but we still have no heat. Everything else works: new thermostat, blows air (cold), not the heater core, has enough fluid and dont smell it and windows dont fog up, dash gauge heats up to half way in just 2-3 minutes. This is very frustrating! Its cold outside, and me and my little boy freeze everywhere we go. What else could it be?
Hello there!
Forgive me, but i don't know much about cars, only really the basics. I have a problem with my water. I have checked for water in the oil, it appears fine. I have checked underneath the car for obvious signs, nothing. I've checked to see any white smoke coming from my exhaust, that seems fine. The coolant has had to be filled twice in 3 days. It is a little merky and there is yellow sludge on the inside of the tank. I have just bought some K-Seal as thought i could try to see if it helps. Any other suggestions anyone?? Many Thanks Read more
it could be the inlet manifold gasket if you are loosing lots of water and your oil is fine. If you are loosing a lot and your oil hasnt turned to mayonnaise then its worth checking the inlet manifold. Its cheap to replace and on your year car it will be plastic so well worth a look. Later ones were metal which helped cure the problem.
Any water being lost to the inlet manifold gasket will burn straight off whilst the car is running so no leak will be visible. Also replace your coolant cap - for sake of a fiver it has cured many coolant loss mysteries on this engine! The little valve inside breaks after time and doesnt hold its pressure and therefore boiling and evaporating the water in the headertank when driving
Back in July, I had a minor knock.
To explain the situation, I was at a t-junction indicating a left turn, second in line behind a pick-up which was indicating right at the give way line. The pick-up set off on his right turn, changed his mind, stopped half way across the junction, and reversed back in to the t-junction towards me. He didn't look, went too far in his haste and hit the front of my car, puncturing the plastic bumper with his tow bar (the corner of the bar which hangs below the bumper, not the ball bit, hence the puncture), and furthermore denting a metal cross member behind the bumper. The bumper is also bent out of shape on the other side of the number plate as a result of the movement, and will need replacing to ensure a proper repair. I was so surprised to see him reversing towards me, I didn't have time to check behind me (it was clear as it turned out), select reverse and move out of the way before he hit me.
My guess as to the cost of the damage is more than a couple of hundred pounds (it's a 2006 Mazda 6), considering it's a whole new bumper and a straightening out job on the internal damage. I'm thinking, probably a couple of grand, even though it doesn't look much.
I was driving my children to nursery at the time (1 and 4 years old), so I jumped out of the car and took the pick-up driver's name, number plate and phone number. Foolishly I didn't get his address as I wasn't thinking straight, as I just wanted to get back in the car as quickly as possible to calm the bawling children down and get them out of danger. I couldn't take them out of the car as there was no-one else to look after them. There were no witnesses and no bystanders, it was about 10 to 8 in the morning in a quiet residential area on a very quiet day for traffic.
So, I informed my insurance company, snip !, and provided my statement and drawing of the scene. Since then I have been chasing them up for progress, and now they have stated that the other driver's insurers have 90 days to respond to my accusation of liability to the other driver. And, even after 90 days they only have to respond if my insurers have incurred a financial loss, i.e. we've gone ahead with the repair.
So let me get this right. If I go ahead and repair, my insurance company pay. If they then insist on a statement from the other driver, he may well deny liability. In which case, I'll lose my no claims history and it'll cost me a packet come renewal. Or I cough for the repairs myself. Can this be right? Can the other driver refuse to respond to a enquiry regarding liability? Read more
Overall I'm very impressed and that's from someone who has always been unkeen on Vauxhalls generally.
As per the advert from the 80's - once driven, forever smitten ;o)
Why is this condoned??
My example would be Royal Avenue in Belfast
Chocka with blue badges
I "understood" that the double yellow lines were there on road SAFETY grounds
So how can it be any less dangerous for a disabled driver to park there
Plus with the huge amount of spaces reserved for disabled parking already
jat
M
Ps that veh list one has to use does not include either
(I) Steyr Daimler Puch, an official British import for a no of years
nor
(ii) Mercedes "G" Wagen, ditto as above
So I picked one at random
{Made non make/model specific. To post in discussion, you only need choose the category if the question doesn't relate to a vehicel make/model. It's only in Technical matters that it's compulsory} Read more
Welcome back Muggy!
I tend to think that many of us with severly disabled reletives very rarely use double yellows, instead tending to use the proper bays, from what I've seen its mainly the older generation with BBs that seem to park there who have BBs because of their age and subsequent limited mobility... perhaps there should be a two teir system like Aberdeen has whereby severly disabled have special bays... though I'm loath to create yet more road markings for everyone to fight over...
On the subject of Aberdeen, they have a "Green Badge" scheme which is for people with much more "restrictions", whilst its a good idea, in theory, the obvious downside is that anyone visiting from elsewhere in the country with similar conditions can't use them because they will only have the standard blue badge... which I rather think discriminates against any out of towners!
My '51 106 (main dealer FSH) has now failed its MOT twice on brake imbalance, despite new pads between failures (didn't need them, they were pitted but thought it might cure it, its only done 30k so on original pads)- calipers look fine, move fine, pistons move with thumb pressure, discs look ok, hoses look fine, no judder on braking. Its giving a 36% imbalance (passenger side better) on first pressure which drops to 12% ish, but the tester wouldn't pass it. Chaged the discs over and it dropped to 25% Any ideas? Everything else is perfect, in every way, just this issue. It does seem to be pulling to the left on braking, more so on harder braking.
{Moved across to Technical Matters} Read more
659,
I would have thought that stiction of the caliper, and the inner pad would be causing an MOT fail for binding brakes as well as imbalance - the OP hasn't mentioned binding?
Browse
Ok, its been a while since I posted on here, the problem is now fixed.
Thought it took them a while to find it, so glad it was under warranty.
They changed the clutch sensor, the turbo sensor even the turbo itself (ouch).
Still got the problem, stalling, no power, etc.
They then checked the pipework, there is a pipe running from the turbo to a T piece, this was blocked, they changed the pipe and T piece (total of £10!) and hay presto one happy car!
Not missed a beat ever since!
Something as simple as a blocked pipe, would you believe it!