October 2009
My son has had a Ford Ka - P reg - for the last 2 yrs, he's nearly 20 so insurance is still an issue (1 yr NCB, will be 2 yrs in June). Unfortunately some so and so hit the Ka whilst my son was stationary but the individual is refusing to accept any responsibility - saying they both pulled away together and clipped each other, a blatent lie but no witnesses. Police called and breathalysed both drivers - both were fine - but just said it's a RTA with no witnesses "sort it out yourselves". Which on reflection was all they could reasonably do.
So we're stuffed. The Ka will cost more to fix (damaged door, wing) than it's worth so we're looking for something cheap to insure and hopefully a bit more robust.
I've read on here that the 1.6 8v is a pretty tough engine and it's only Group 4 insurance.
I've identified a Y plate 1.6 Club in silver with 85K miles A/C and MOT to 09/2010
and
a W plate 1.6LS in bottle Green with 89K with 6 months MOT
Same price for both 5 dr hatchbacks
Both are for sale at reasonably local independent garages, and both establishments have full workshop facilities and are long established businesses who both repair, service and sell cars.
Can anyone tell me the cambelt change interval, anything to watch out for on this model.
Is it a good choice? I've read the C by C but any owner or first hand experiences would be most welcome.
They are both up at £1695, which might seem high to some but here in rural Gloucestershire cars are dearer and a lot of the one's on ofer at around £1000 - £1200 had much higher mileages (120-150K) and were all at the type of "bombsite" dealers who
will probably be operating under a different name in 3 months time!
I hope to offer and pay £1500 which doesn't seem unrealistic??
Thank you for any advice
Jacks
Read more
Daughter is concerned that her handbrake warning light has started coming on at random whilst driving. I'm assuming this is just a faulty switch - right? Read more
could be a concentric clutch problem
Hi
I was recently doing a long journey when an EPC warning light came on the dashboard. In the manual it says this is something to do with engine management and says take it to a dealer.
I called the RAC out who plugged in their computer but could find no problems with it.
I've just looked under the bonnet and the white round plastic container that holds the radiator water is a long way below the minimum level.
IS IT SAFE FOR ME JUST TO OPEN THE WHITE PLASTIC container and add PLAIN ORDINARY TAP WATER? Just as an emergency measure as I have to go out in the car shortly and it being Sunday won't find a VW garage open.
The manual says it has to be a mix of water and something else which I don't have. Will I cause damage if I just put ordinary water in it to tide me over?
Many thx Read more
Hi Dynamic Dave
Many thanks for your helpful reply.
Yes I guess there may be a leak somewhere and that might be why the EPC light came on in the first place. I will need to get it looked at but just wanted to make sure I could safely top it up for now to drive from A-B until I can get it into a garage.
Many thanks.
Having experienced my own 2003 Mazda 6 diesel engine cutting out mid-way onto a motorway, going round a round-about and even at a crossroads junction. I went looking for causes and found this website, this was a few months back. I see that many posters have had similar problems when idling and coming up to junctions etc. and the car completely cut out. This also happened to me and I was nearly killed once when pulling out onto a busy motorway, then the car completely cut out, steering locked the works. As any of you out there who have experienced this know, the car will not restart straight away, takes a few minutes before it will.
I had the car taken to Mazda diagnostics and it picked up a fault P0093 - Fuel system leak detected, Large leak and was told there and then that the diesel pump was gone (or going) and needed replaced. Even though the car was still driving fine and I was still getting over 500 miles to a full tank of diesel I thought I would leave the replacement for now. The car had a full service history (timing belt changed) before I bought it and over 70000 miles on the clock, now approx 90000. After talking to a retired diesel mechanic, I happend to metion this to him in regards to the cutting out, he imediately said fuel filter.
Now I dont know if this is of any help to anyone who has this happening to their own Mazda 6. But before you fork out for a new diesel pump or suction valve for the pump via Feather Diesel or wherever, I would advise you to check your diesel filter has been changed, this is why. My car had a full service history up until I bought it, but when we changed the fuel / diesel filter I found it to be very, very dirty inside and was also surprised to see it was a Denso fuel filter which lead me to believe it may never have been replaced from new, maybe some of you out there could tell me more? The replacement filter I had bought form Mazda, was Mazda branded, not Denso, so does anyone know if the diesel filters are changed as part of a normal service? I wouldnt like to think the fuel filter in my car had never been changed at all (in 6 years) as surprisingly since changing it, the car HASNT stalled once even when idling. Maybe this could account for a lot of the pump failures we read about - ie the pump struggling to deal with a dirty fuel filter. I have now marked the new filter and will see the next time when I get the car serviced if this has been changed.
It may be irrelevant and my cutting out fault may come back, but so far, so good!
Regards,
N-I Read more
Sorry if this has been covered before.My sons peugeot 106 independence ( 1.1 petrol)has just developed a fault.The speedo, rev counter and fuel gauge have simultaneously stopped working.I have checked all the fuses i can find, and none are blown.If any one has any ideas as to the problem that would be great.
regards
bernie Read more
The sensor is located on the top of the differential housing at the back of
the gearbox. You might just have a bad connection there, try unplugging it,
a spray with WD40, and replug.
Hi,
you all seem to know your stuff, so would like to ask for some advice.
never had this happen before, but the oil dipstick tube/housing has come away from the point it connects to the sump. No oil leaking out and have plugged it with a piece of rag for past week, with no mishap.
Any ideas on the cheapest way to fix this (metal putty/replace with new?) would be appreciated.
Also, would this have caused the dashboard 'engine management' light to come on. It hasn't been back on since plugging the sump insert?
many thanks, Dean. Read more
It just pulls out there is a O ring on the bottom, make sure it has not snapped off which i doubt but if it has you will need to pull it out.
My partner and I bought a 2nd hand C3. 1.4 hdi sx
We seem to have a problem with the engine cutting out when ever my partner changes down a gear quickly or stopping at a junction. Its intermittent so difficult to reproduce, no fault displayed n the dashboard, but the electrics cut out too (like fan blower), my partner can sometimes 'catch' it and recover without it stalling. Seem to only happen when slowing down, like coming to a junction, realy strange, any ideas what could be wrong?
I do not know if this is related but she also makes a tapping / knocking noise when accelerating at low speed, which seems different to the usual diesel knocking noise.
Our last car was a basic Nissan Micra '94 1.0L, so we are not used to all these modern things, 'Partner wishes we stuck to the Micra, tending to agree!' as new spare key cost more than we got for the Micra! sob.... Read more
Ok, its been a while since I posted on here, the problem is now fixed.
Thought it took them a while to find it, so glad it was under warranty.
They changed the clutch sensor, the turbo sensor even the turbo itself (ouch).
Still got the problem, stalling, no power, etc.
They then checked the pipework, there is a pipe running from the turbo to a T piece, this was blocked, they changed the pipe and T piece (total of £10!) and hay presto one happy car!
Not missed a beat ever since!
Something as simple as a blocked pipe, would you believe it!
Hi All,
I have a 2006 307SW 1.6 petrol with 55k on the clock.
It runs fine, no error codes are present, but.. most times, not all, it's lumpy at idle. The rev counter doesn't show any variation, sticking at around 700 ish but you can feel it missing a beat. It's got a full Pug service history and was serviced about 4 months ago, I did ask my local main dealer to have a quick look and he said it's fine and even hooked it up to a fault reader which showed nothing. Various sources have told me it could be throttle position sensor, throttle potentiometer, throttle body, hydraulic tappets, blocked jets, dodgy HT lead or plug. So you can see I'm spoilt for choice :-)
Have any of you guys got a "speaking from experience" idea as to what it is or some suggestion as to what to check (idiots guide please).
ps. I already done the BSI reset procedure.
Thanks all Read more
Sounds expensive! any ideas on diagnosis and possible repair costs?
What would cause failure, it's a 3 year old car with full service history, 55k on the clock, surely they should last longer than that.
Also, would this cause an intermittent problem? The idle seems fine when I pull up but gradually gets lumpier the longer it idles, I've also noticed the odd flat spot under acceleration at about 3k revs, although again it's only now and again.
I hate intermittent problems, I think I'd rather have a complete failure, at least you know where you stand.
Hi guys I'm new to the forum just looking some advice for my Jag S type.
Its a year 2000 3.0l v6 auto petrol and sometimes when i try to start it (normally if i've been driving it for a bit then stop) i get nothing. Whether its in park or neutral i turn the key and nothing the car wont even try to turn over I just get dead silence. The battery is fine everything else is working perfectly radio etc but then after maybe 15-20 tries shifting between gears it will start randomly.
Any ideas? Thanks in advance. Read more
bit confused?
is it a rotary switch on the gearbox faulty ie the dirty end
or a micra switch on the bit under the console the clean end
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>>as its digital and there is no noticeable difference, yes i would.>>
Well we once had a session trying out cheap cables and expensive ones (up to about £40) at my mate's audio/visual/appliances outlet with some large screen LCD and plasma TVs and there was most definitely a difference in favour of the pricier leads...:-)
Good Honest workhorse, - not a drivers car but defintly a credible workhorse
I have owned one, its reliabilty (apart from a few resolveable issues) and cheapness of consumables (exhausts, brake pads etc) was a tick in my book
Im quite tall, and over long distances found it uncomfortable, i also found the suspension to stiff for my tastes, and the steering although nice and light absoultly no feedback from the road wheels, you are completly seperate from the road.
due to its oversized radiator it ran too cool in winter, but not really a problem in summer as a result of this and due to the short trips i did it had a bit of mayo under the fuel cap - a nice long run got rid of that.
if you do get one apperantly there was a software update that bypassed the EGR valve (although my Vauxhall dealer could not confirm whether mine was done or not, not even that there was actually a software update) apperntly this improves the running of the car
Pros
Still looks good
Releiable
Cheap
decent specs (air con etc)
roomy for your passangers and luggage (not quite so for me)
Good workhorse
Cons
Overcooled
(As Rattle has mentioned) Timing belt has to come off to change the thermostat
Not a drivers car