August 2009

hm

Hello all... silly question, and I have done some limited reseach on the web.. does anyone know if my wifes A4 2.5tdi Quattro Avant with an Auto gearbox (not the CVT one) has a transmission oil cooler?

If so.. where is she?

Thanks

H Read more

breeves

I've been experiencing occasional brief slowing down when driving as if I've applied the brakes momentarily. I've also been told of my brake lights flickering. Since I believe this subject has come up before (Linesman in March 09 I believe) I'd be grateful for any information to explain this experience and, hopefully, a cure for the problem.
(this is my first post as a newcomer)

{typo in header corrected} Read more

breeves

Many thanks to the three members who responded to my post I'll examine the brake pedal switch and if necessary replace it or have it replaced.

Monkeehouse

I was just driving along fairly sedately, 40 mph, suddenly the glow plug light came on, the car stalled and wouldn't start. Pushed the car to the side of the road gave it ten minutes and the car started again. This is the second time its done this. The first time it happened a couple of days ago, took it to the dealer the next day, they checked for fault codes and nothing had been registered for 3600 Km.

Reading some of the other links could it be the EGR value clogged or would that register a fault code. I'm new to diesels and Jag's so anyone any ideas what it could be? Read more

lavondys

Hi

I have a Laguna Estate 2.0L RXE Limited Edition. The one with leather interior and rear brake discs rather tha drums)

I recently had all 4 tyres changed.

The fitter put the rotation on the front left tyre the wrong way round, so switched this with the rear right one.

After getting it back on the road i noticed a knocking sound coming from the front axle getting louder between 20 and 30 at a specific point as the axle turned.

Ive to date switched the front tyre for a spare to eliminate thread problems and paid £28 to have the wheels tracked. Still the same, there has always been a slight rubbing sound when turning left but this is not noticeably louder.

Its as if the wheels oval!! lmao

Ive taken it back today to the garage that have fitted the tyres, there the experts............COUGH........Theres a slight lip on the disc which they say they nwill grind off tomorrow to see if this helps, of it could be a ball joint..

But the question hasnt been answered that if the car was OK before they fitted the tyres WHY all off a sudden am i presented with bag of bolts??

Any answers would be appreciated as im skint and cant afford to be messed around by a mechanical merrygo round special!

Regards

Lav Read more

lavondys

You should know that wheel nuts should never be greased for obvious safety reasons.


HHHMM. Now you have confused not just me but everyone. I can see your point that greasing the nuts up might cause the nuts to not "Nip" up. But then maybe you should go and advise any good quality tyre spot that apply copper grease to your wheel nuts when changing your tyres.................................

Maybe youve never been 50 miles in the middle of no-where, trying to change a tyre with a manufacturers supplied wheel brace.... AFTER some loop at the garage hasnt applied any form of grease and OVER tighten the nuts.......................

LAV.

P.S. Ex-Triumph Man was correct in point. The wheel nuts on the opposite side hadnt been tightened properly
meandering

My neighbour recently concreted his front drive, and splashed lots of small specks of concrete (or cement) onto my Focus.

It seems to scrape off with a thumbnail, but has it done any damage? Is there anything I need to do? Read more

pd

A bit of household vinegar usually does the trick with cement.

madf

David

I own a Yaris and replaced my own pads and disks (DIY) for £105 parts only).
An indie should be able to do it for £40 labour tops: it's an easy job 1 hour tops..

A 2003 Yaris will easily last to 2013 and do 120k miles + if serviced regularly...

As far as Buy now or later, the BOE are printing money like it's going out of fashion. Some time or other sterling will slide and imported car prices rise...(and all small cars are basically imported)
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Lou_O

Now to picking a reliable cheap to run and insure yet still a decent drive
replacement for my current Yaris...


Why not keep the Yaris?

I can't imagine it's losing you much money, it's reliable, cheap to run and insure and it's a decent drive.

:)

Cheers,

Lou
bikemadbaz

had the steering wheel off, says in book to reset air bag? guess thats why the light is on? anyone got any ideas how this is done? thanks. bazza. Read more

Dynamic Dave

is there no way I can do it myself?


Correct, I wouldn't have mentioned the required equipment otherwise. A lot of backstreet garages will have the diagnostic kit, so no need to go to a main dealer.
dave_s

Having had one problem solved on here today, thought I'd try the other one. My 1.6L 2002 Ford Focus Zetec has developed an annoying intermittent problem - only happens maybe once/week.

Will be stopped at traffic lights/roundabout, and when I come to accelerate in first gear it just doesn't accelerate - moves along at about 3-5 miles/hour for about 7-10 seconds before kicking in. This is with the clutch fully out. Pressing harder on the accelerator doesn't make any difference. Engine doesn't over-rev. Just doesn't accelerate for a while, then suddenly off it goes.

Has been going on for about a month and has happened maybe 5 times - no obvious cause, no funny noises. Pretty dangerous when it happens on roundabouts though - any ideas? Read more

Roly93

Likely to be the throttle position sensor causing this and will need to be replaced.

alfatrike

now here goes,

we all love paying road tax don't we? ok, i thought not.

if the government scraps road tax and puts a fuel duty UP a few pence it might work.

average driver gets 30mpg (probably not right but work with me)
average driver does 12,000 miles a year (same again, it's just some numbers to play with) and uses 400 gallons / 1824 litres of fuel to do it costing about a quid a litre.

anual fuel bill of roughly 1800 quid

road tax is roughly 200 quid for a family car like mine.

200 quid divided by 12,000 miles equals 1.6p per mile / 50p per gallon

if they put 11p on fuel duty and scrapped road tax i would be about the same BUT

the business high mile-ers who use lots more fuel pay more but can claim it back.

granny who only goes down to the shop once a week and uses a cupfull of fuel to do it SAVES.

i know most of the maths is probably wrong. Read more

Rattle

Damn it the idiots just wanted £20 of me last week for renewing my driving licence, now they want £68 of me for 6 months road tax. They want 15% VAT of me every time I buy a car part, they want 60% tax every time I buy fuel.

Cars are damn expensive but not nearly expensive enough to put people off using them :). My recent trip to wales was an example, cost £35 (400 miles) in fuel and maybe £10 wear and tear but there was four of us in the car. On public transport it would have cost us around £160.

Although round Manchester having a car is a lot more expensive than public transport but I run a business and now the time I used to spend waiting for buses is spent doing more important thing. So you can try all you like Mr Government but you will not get me out of my car.

I am paying too many flat rates insurance, car tax etc. If the government want people out of their cars and onto buses then scrapping road tax and increasing fuel duties will help. There could also be concensions for business travel to.

I am all for alternative transport methods but at the moment I will take my car every time unless I am going to town and I will hop on the tram as its cheaper and faster.

sawmecoming

Just found this site and it seems the perfect arena to vent my utter exaperation with VW. Also, I think it is good for VW users to use a forum like this to exchange experiences as I am not at all sure customers are being treated, dare I say it, honestly. This is a bit long I am afraid, but hopefully enlightening.
The warning light came on to say that brake pads needed fitting. I had been told by a friend, who is not altogether totally ignorant about cars, that only the front pads are likely to need doing, 'dont have the rear pads done until I look at them, or the discs'. I duly booked in for front brake pads and also a new cam belt. I had been told several times by VW that it was important to have this done even though the car only has 35000 miles on the clock. I was warned of the potential cost I could incur if the belt went. I relented and agreed to have it done yesterday with the brake pads. However I received a call from VW to say that the brake pads all round together with the discs were very very low and scored etc etc and all needed doing. £958.65 was the bill for this. That was yesterday. Yesterday, all I had was a brake pad warning light - today I have the ABS warning light on, I cant move out of parking into neutral easily and I have taken the car straight back.

By some strange coincidence, the very day after the work has been done (but I am assured by VW this is purely coincidental), the ABS pump needs replacing at a cost of £1000+ just for the pump plus labour and VAT! I had a brake sensor fitted to alleviate the gear change problem, which at the moment seems to have done the trick.

This is not the first time I have left a VW garage with more wrong with the car than when I went in. With my last VW - after servicing I found nails in the tyres - on three occasions! On one occasion I discovered that the service hadnt in fact been done, although I was charged for it, not even the oil was changed.

This has come at a very bad time for me because only last week my daughter (for whom I had leased a POLO for 2 years), had the end of lease inspection. The car was in immaculate condition and had only 9000 miles on the clock. The front wheel trims were scuffed, I replaced them, the 2 year service was due, I had it done, I replaced a couple of bulbs and had paint repairs on a couple of small scuffs to the front bumper, minor and very tiny dents on the doors (hardly visible and certainly not photographable). I was confident the car would pass any inspection. At the end of the inspection I was given an estimate for £1700 plus VAT to 'put the car right'. I immediately took it to two garages for an independent inspection - both agreed with me the car was in good condition and had a very small amount of use - which they considered fair wear and tear. I have had leased cars myself for many years (including VWs) and have never, ever, had to pay back one penny in 'refurbishment'. The inspector said I needed two new tyres at the front - the VW dealer I subsequently took the car to for their opinion, disagreed and said the tyres were legal. Sensing I was in for a battle and feeling extremely anxious that the inspector I had was on a commission earning exercise - I took the car to a renowned body specialist and had every tiny imperfection taken out. On reinspection, the inspector noticed a speck of dirt inside the paint on the bumper (seriously I am not making this up) where the car had had a minor paint repair. He said they would have to redo the paintwork. In all I spent £1515 getting the car to their very high standards. I have just received an invoice for £134 to cover the wheel trims at the back and a new front tyre!! The wheel trims at the back were very very lightly marked and the tyre was legal even according to the VW dealer. I have refused to pay it on principle. Can anyone tell me how I trace the lease car so that I can see if they had the 'refurbishsment' work done, which I dont believe they did. I am going to sell my VW Golf and buy another make of car altogether. I feel I have been dealing with complete charlatans. Would love to hear from anyone with similar end of lease experiences or major problems materialising after a visit to the VW dealership for servicing, minor repairs or indeed if anyone else has had a cam belt replaced and their ABS pump suddenly needed replacing??? If so then VW are aware that this is a problem and this would account for the pressure to get the cam belt done - they recommended I had the cam belt changed when I only had 20,000 miles on the clock, but left it until I had 35,000 miles on the clock.
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