July 2009
Hi All
My pug 306 is still really out on the emissions for the MOT.. I have replaced the Cat, Lamda sensor, Air filter, and changed the oil but it is still way out??
I have also tried giving it a good thrashing down the road too before the test
Can anyone help or had the same problem??
Thanks
{added model into the header for you} Read more
Just came across this, makes for interesting reading;
www.pistonheads.com/news/default.asp?storyId=20259
First para reads:
The CO2 impact of Speed Humps in the UK is greater than that of the whole of Fiji, says Clear, a self-styled 'Carbon Offsetting Company' whose employees found time to do the maths between other, um, very important offsetting carbon-type things.
SLT to reflect the subject. Read more
Hmmm just thinking - how do we find the time to look where we are
actually going?
Much better to keep to tha rules rather than to look where you are going and anticipate hazards.
Hello all,
I am looking at buying a Honda Accord CTDi or 2.0i Vtec. At the moment, I am looking at the touring so I can fit my full size mountain bike inside.
I dont want a rear rack or roof bars as I want to leave it locked in a car when I am camping etc.
What I would like to know is if anyone has managed to get a mountain bike in a Honda Accord saloon? Wheels and seat stem can come off and I am thinking more about folding the seats down rather than fitting into the boot....does anyone have any ideas if this is feasible?
Thanks!!! Read more
Just to tie this up. I have bought an 04 CDTi saloon with 60k on with a years Honda warranty. Will be picking it up next week sometime.
Cheers guys.
My car is making a squeeling type noise when I am driving. It is there constantly whilst driving but stops when I apply the brake or turn the steering wheel to the left. Does anyone have any idea what this could be?
I had a similar noise a few months back but it happened when I applied the brakes. In this instance I had the brake pads and discs replaced.
I would be really grateful for any help. Read more
Can you check if your car should have anti-squeal shims between the caliper pistons and the back of the pads? That squealing noise is characteristic is characteristic of them being left off or if there, needing some lubrication - Copaslip or the like. It stops when you apply the brakes because everything is clamped tightly together then and cannot vibrate and squeal. The pads are lightly in contact with the disc all the time but they can move, hence the squeal.
Hello everyone,
I am a UK citisen, recently moved out to Oman with family on a technical job.
Last 7 cars have been Toyotas and delighted with the reliability decided to continue the theme here and buy a Landcruiser, petrol is 14p a litre so consumption insignificant.
The 4.5 petrol model I purchased has some shift shock when the vehicle has been operated for a few miles, o.k. on first start of the morning when the transmission is cold'ish probabaly about 30 degrees C at 06:30 when off to work.
The car had this problem when I purchased it, I thought a small adjustment to the brake bands would sort it out but there does not seem to be any way of tampering with this model! ouch.
Does anyone have a fix? the filter has been replaced, £60 just for the bits and the oil replenished, a tube of silicone for the gasket will set you back 25 Omani Rials here, thats the thick end of £40!!!
Could there be a thermostatic valve designed to bypass the cooler for operation in cold climates?
Any help much appreciated,
Thanks guys,
Mike. Read more
You really need the factory manual, which can be bought from the dealers. Alternatively, post a question on ih8mud.com under the 80 series section, or tlocuk.co.uk, where you can get a link to the factory manuals online and some more practical advice.
Hi there,
I know this isn't really a "technical" question but i thought i'd post here as somebody recommend this forum if i had a problem and needing car repairs.
Anyways, i have a Vauxhall Corsa C type in silver, yesterday i scratched the car down the side as i was pulling it into the drive and wondered what would be the best thing to do to remove these.
I have had a look and part of the scratch is only about 1mm thick and some is a few millimeters thick so a basic car scratch removal i have been told will not get rid of the scratches.
Where the door opens, a chunk of the metal has been removed, i'd say about a centimeter circular shape off the edge of the door as it opens.
I know that i probably won't be able to fill in the damaged metal and paint over it but what would i need to do to get rid of the scratches? If you think it would be better me taking it into some place, what sort of price would i be looking at with getting it sorted?
Thanks Read more
If it's Star Silver then it's a clear coat over the silver base. You are going to struggle to polish away deep scratches that go down to the silver layer and matching the paint will be very difficult. Sounds like a perfect time to get an estimate from a "Chips Away" type mobile repairer - usually much cheaper than a body shop.
Hiya
A quick one.
Parents have been told by local VW that:
1) They need a new nearside light cluster to fix a indicator problem (£150!)
2) The MIL keeps comming on for a few weeks and then going off. They're not sure but think the garage say O2 Sensor - and (£160 again!). (I've asked them to get the codes from the garage)
so;
1) Is this likely? VW say the've checked bulb & wiring. I wouldn't think there was anything to go wrong in the cluster?
2) MIL - would it go off after a few weeks? Perhaps the sensor is clearing? Or they have a intermittent air leak or something maybe?
Comments welcome, ta!
James Read more
Hiya BB
(1) agree
(2) dunno exact specification. Thanks for idea's - i'll see what they get back from the garage in terms of codes...
>not a fan of these cars and if you are interested there is a good diagnostic piece on them in july"s edition of car mechanics
ta - good info.
James
Another thread gave me a thought.
It's time to fully waxoyl the cars again.
I haven't used probes to coat the inside of the box sections and ladder chassis of the pick up yet, and i really want to complete that this summer.
Searching around there's very few places that offer professional rustproofing, and those that do are very expensive, i posted on another thread that the quotes for my pick up vary between £380 and £495 +vat.
There are 3 established or at least well Googlable places...Harpenden, Rugby (ex Newbury), and Doncaster in no particular order of price or quality.
Does anyone know of any other rustproofing centres preferably in the Midlands that offer good work at a more affordable rate?
I know i'm being tight here, and in the grand scheme of things £380 isn't much to pay if it means the vehicle lasts up to 15 or more years rust free, in fact putting it like that makes me into Ebenezer..;)
Yes i can do it myself, but spending the following 3 months trying to get meself and everything else clean after one of the most horrible jobs imaginable is something i'd like to avoid. Read more
If I remember right the test was based on spray fineness & even dispersal (using the same compressor & wands), the ability to "creep" and to maintain a film that would heal if breached.
I think they worked on the basis that the compounds would offer similar levels of protection against rust if they were easy to apply properly.
The garage I used said Dinitrol was much easier to work with, even with professional gear
Mornin' all;
My lovely green Vectra failed the MOT on emissions, so now replaced with an older but less leggy one. The electric windows on this 'new' one have a mind of their own, sometimes they work properly, gliding up and down, sometimes they judder but still work, and sometimes they don't function at all - not even a backlight behind the switches.
Anyone know where the controller module is, so I can swap it with the other car, is it the module under the centre armrest / ashtray assembly ?
Thanks for any guidance. Read more
M Benz 270CDI estate 2003.
On driving over rough surfaces or particularly one front wheel hitting a speed bump there is a rattling / whip cracking sound from what seems to be behind the dashboard in the bulk head area. Nothing seems loose in the engine bay. It has gradually got worse. Nothing found or solved in routine servicing - one specialist talked of having it in for a day or 2 to examine it. Any ideas or experience of this gratefully received
I changed the radiator because of fault noted in HJ's text re leaking into gearbox oil matrix. Should I have the auto gearbox fluid checked or changed ? Read more
C class w203 are renowed for braking front springs I noticed in the paperwork of mine two front springs have been replaced because they were found to be broken during an MOT.
Browse
I can't help but have you checked the ignition side of things? Have you checked the compression?
What I was going to say is could you post the results of the emisions test then experts on here will be able to help.