Another thread gave me a thought.
It's time to fully waxoyl the cars again.
I haven't used probes to coat the inside of the box sections and ladder chassis of the pick up yet, and i really want to complete that this summer.
Searching around there's very few places that offer professional rustproofing, and those that do are very expensive, i posted on another thread that the quotes for my pick up vary between £380 and £495 +vat.
There are 3 established or at least well Googlable places...Harpenden, Rugby (ex Newbury), and Doncaster in no particular order of price or quality.
Does anyone know of any other rustproofing centres preferably in the Midlands that offer good work at a more affordable rate?
I know i'm being tight here, and in the grand scheme of things £380 isn't much to pay if it means the vehicle lasts up to 15 or more years rust free, in fact putting it like that makes me into Ebenezer..;)
Yes i can do it myself, but spending the following 3 months trying to get meself and everything else clean after one of the most horrible jobs imaginable is something i'd like to avoid.
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Possible a fair proportion of that price is for their insurance for when people come back in 10 years time and say "it's going rusty". The word "rustproofing" means a lot more than just a damn good waxoiling.
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Mr Scrooge, have you considered using some of these?
Ebay item 120447011042
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Is it really worthwhile economically?
Modern cars easily last 10 years without significant rust. by that time a major mechanical problem will cost more to repair than the vehicles worth. Unlike 20 years ago it is not often that corrosion ends the economic life of a vehicle
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Mart...yes i suppose the odd recoating is factored in to the price...which the more i think about it probably reflects the job.
NC...i could do with some of those anyway, never known anyone else who could get more grease/oil/brake dust/waxoyl on themselves than me, i do have some really good old fashioned boiler suits...SWMBO just loves it when they have to be bent into the washine machine they're that full of crud..;)
CGN...the pick up isn't a modern design really, like most old school 4x4's it's got a separate ladder chassis painted well but not thickly enough, though i have been keeping that coated where i can see weaknesses together with various suspension/transmission parts.
I know i'm being too fussy, but i just hate seeing rust under my vehicles.
Well i've been and gorn and done it...booked it into a place on Wednesday for the works...i'll give a report for anyone thats interested when i've had a good butchers at the finished job.
Funny until i started this little thread i'd sort of convinced meself it was too expensive to go with the pro's....strange how writing it out and airing it can make you see the bigger picture....the Mr Scrooge label may have had a bearing..;)
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It's nearly 15 years ago now, but I got a local father & son classic restoration firm to do my old BGT with Dinitrol using proper spray probes and compressor etc.
£80 if I remember right, in all the sills, chassis legs, inside doors etc etc.
It was cheap because they know from experience exactly where to spray, and they used to service & MOT it for me.
On hot days for MONTHS afterward, you used to get Dinitrol drips on the drive :)
Edited by craig-pd130 on 13/07/2009 at 13:24
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On hot days for MONTHS afterward you used to get Dinitrol drips on the drive :)
Not too bothered about the odd drip, but not looking forward to the smell for the rest of the year, still it's SWMBO's motor so i won't have that problem in the week...he he.
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did my truck 4 weeks ago
unfortunately it now stinks of the stuff everytime i get in,even worse on a hot day
took 2 days to do the job properly
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Dinitrol came out much better in a Practical Classics test some years ago. I'm not a fan of Waxoyl either from past experience. Use Dinitrol 3125 in the box sections and under the car followed by Dinitrol 4941 or body schutz on the underside to give protection fom being abraded. It is dearer but worth it in my opinion. Bilt Hamber also do a good cavity wax which you can get in big aerosols with a long probe with a decent brass spray head.
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Not too bothered about the odd drip but not looking forward to the smell for the rest of the year still it's SWMBO's motor so i won't have that problem in the week...he he.
I love the smell! I recon I could get high on it!
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BB, 2 days...hmm not sure i can face 2 days of that horrid job anymore, well done though it'll reap benefits once you get the stuff out of your hair, sometime around Christmas i'd say.
Nick, what was the standard for the test by practcal classics, how did they arrive at the verdict that Dinitrol was better, was it by application or did they test over a period of several years...seems Craig was wooed by that stuff as well.
FB, the smell of waxoyl i just cannot like...however SWMBO has been using a rather attractive solvent based glue this afternoon, i may sneak it out for a good snort later..;)
Edited by gordonbennet on 13/07/2009 at 20:02
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IIRC PC coated clean steel in various products and sprayed them with a salt solution for a certain time. They also measured the penetration of the product on rusty metal. This is where Dinitrol was signifcantly better than the other products. It would penetrate several mm of crusty rust and then keep further rust at bay. Waxoyl merely formed a coating over the rust and did little else. My own experience bears this out. I used to run a Triumph Toledo about 10 years ago. This was in reasonable condition when purchased and I thoroughly treated it with waxoyl every year. I used a compressor with a professional quality applicator probe. Kick plates off, holes drilled, loads of waxoyl injected, the works! Every year.
After about 5 years I noticed a minor scab on the outside of one sill. A little thumb pressure and lo! A hole. More pressure, bigger hole, until I ended up with a hole some six inches long. Peering inside with a torch revealed serious crusty rust with a very neat covering of waxoyl. It had done diddley-squat. No more waxoyl for me!
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If I remember right the test was based on spray fineness & even dispersal (using the same compressor & wands), the ability to "creep" and to maintain a film that would heal if breached.
I think they worked on the basis that the compounds would offer similar levels of protection against rust if they were easy to apply properly.
The garage I used said Dinitrol was much easier to work with, even with professional gear
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I love the smell! I recon I could get high on it!
Me too!! That's the only reason I regularly waxoyl the 2CV!
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