July 2009
Today we serviced a Half Track for a nearby Museum and noted that grease in the hubs was still valid from 1939.
2) `Auntie Ethel` called in with a Ford KA - giant rust scab ground off its nose with the grinder.
3) Toyota Yaris - fitted new badge as existing deteriorated by saliva and excess polishing
4) Honda ? Pierre our mechanic took the camshafts and 8 plugs out and played tiddlywinks with the shims until it was quiet.
5) Rover (BL) came along the approach to the garage with that familiar tapping sound - like a donkeys hoof rapping on the roof...... we all ran out and formed a defence to entry line across the entrance - knowing it was another of those factory installed nuts dangling on a string in a box member.
We are also applying for an `X` certificate to keep us out of the silly thread
Goodnight. Read more
Currently driving a rental car as mines off the road after an accident. Been given a 58 plate Ford. Already the bonnet is rusting (i assume after a stone chip).
I remember old Fords always used to rust but it appears nothings changed on modern ones. Anyone know why though - surely its galvanised same as any other car? Never had any rusting problems on previous cars (Renaults and Peugeots) even after various stone chips and accident damage.
Shame because its a really good car to drive but I think the rusting problem would put me off buying one. Read more
Depending on their standards, everyone's perception of unacceptable rust is different. At one end of the scale it will be where a single stone chip has gone down to the metal and allowed superficial rust to develop locally. At the other end of the scale it will be a hole in the bodywork or an area where you could literally poke your finger through.
Can an ignition module be replaced without the need to recode the ignition module, the ecu, key, etc
Edited to remove the SHOUTING Read more
Car losses power under load especially uphill, i have changed the plugs and air filter still no better. Where is the fuel filter on this car so i can elliminate it as a possable cause. The car has been sitting in my drive unused for 1 year, would this have an impact on the performance. I have had the exhaust checked out at ATS and its ok, what should i do next, thanks. Read more
The central locking now frequently fails so the door will not unlock manually either from the inside or outside. I think some mechanical bit must be sticking as I can hear the electromechanical bit trying to unlock it. Sometimes it succeeds. Trouble is, I can't see how to get the impregnable trim off. All I have managed to do is find a tiny hole under the arm rest/door pull enabling the window switch to be removed, but that doesn't reveal any allen/torc screws either. And the small phillips screws at the top ends of the trim are only accessible with the door open!
Can anyone please advise on how to prise off which bit of trim without wrecking it? Read more
Success! In view of deafening silence from your experts I thought I'd share my new-found knowledge courtesy of the Audi Forum.
After a rare door-unlocking event the two small Phillips screws are removed and the whole interior trim panel shoved firmly vertically upwards. That's all..apart from disconnecting the obvious things! I've never known a door panel come off so easily......when you know how - and yet appear so firmly and immovably attached! [but then i haven't known that many door panels]
I still don't know how to open the door if it hadn't unlocked, though.
Good day for Britain in the Tour de France.
Mark Cavendish won the stage in Paris making his fifth stage win and a new British record.
Bradley Wiggins came fourth overall and another British best.
Congratulations to them both.
I realise this isn't strictly motoring related, but could the Mods let it run to see if it has legs? Read more
This probably doesn't fit into any other thread here - not even IHAQ. So Stu is right but for those not really following the Tour de France this thread stands for now.
But not sure what needs discussing here so now read only.
Hi all I recently took my toyota yaris 2, in for the scheduled 80k service and discussed with the toyota/citreon main dealer , garage manager about the car's general reliabilty. He seems to think that Toyota are living off past reliabilty reputation and suggested I buy a Citreon next time. His garage have kept the service franchise for toyotas but now only sell toyotas! What do you think everyone , are toyotas not what they used to be?
thanks, Sheldon 2 Read more
Thanks Concrete,
useful knowledge about the toyota avensis. My car will soon go past the 80k mark(I also service mine at 10k service intervals). Maybe I will trade it in a get a Fabia diesel. Iwas hoping to keep the car for 5years and aprox. 125k miles, we will see. Thanks for the advice.
best,
Sheldon
I am wanting to find out from the DVLA when I bought and sold my old Polo. I need some documents to prove I bought it at a certain time, but unfortunately all I remember is that it was an A reg Polo and the DVLA said they need the license plate numbers.
Any ideas on where I could get the information - if its possible?
Thanks
Tam
Made vehicle non-specific Read more
Ask where you had it serviced and MoT'd.
HI my mate has the above car and it makes the most terible noise from the front end as we drive along. it squeaks and knocks at the least bump or when going slow, have tried turning the radio up, but we can still hear it. looked underneath, nothing broken. cant find any grease nipples like on the old cars so cant lube it all up? neather sound is constant, just very anoing, what can we do to shut it all up? thanks. Read more
Agreed. HJ does not rate them either. A friend recently purchased an 5year old JTD Stilo in 'excellent' condition, it broke down on his way over to show it to me! The AA man did not have anything positive to say about these cars either, in fact he was pretty scornful towards Stilos in general. Thankfully my friend was able to return the car & received his money back from the trader.
Watching Top Gear the other night, an oft repeated bit of "wisdom" was trotted out which reinforces a significant misunderstanding of how cars work. I can see why people believe it; on a superficial level, it makes sense; however, it's quite bogus.
The "wisdom" is;
On a front wheel drive car, the front wheels do more work because they are both steering and driving
This is, despite being so deeply ingrained as received wisdom, utter nonsense.
To expose this as the bunkum it is, consider a car with a 50 / 50 weight distribution going round a corner at reasonable speed, and with neutral throttle. To simplify matters, imagine the the height of the centre of gravity is so low that weight transfer to the outside is negligible.
How much side force is generated by the front wheels compared with how much is generated by the rear?
If you believe in Clarkson's maxim, you'll have to say that the front, steered, wheels are doing more work, producing more force. However, if this were the case, there would be an unbalanced moment acting on the car, tending to make it spin (front end into the centre of the corner, back end out!).
Of course, what actually must happen for equilibrium is that front and rear wheels must produce the same amount of side force. This would remain true if the car had four wheel steering, or even rear wheel steering.
To say this bluntly;
Just because a wheel may be turned relative to the car's body does not mean it is producing more or less sideforce than the wheels which remain inline.
Now, having got that off my chest, it's possible to talk a bit more about what really affects how much work tyres have to do. The thing which really dominates here is weight distribution. Had I dealt with an example of a car with a 70 / 30 weight distribution, then, yes, the front wheels will be producing more sideforce than the rear, surprise surprise, in the ratio 70 / 30!!
IF we temporarily begin to think about the 50 / 50 car and consider what happens if you add drive or brake forces, you'll see there's no black magic here either. The brake or drive forces act at approximately right angles to the sideforce, and together form a resultant force, so as the sideforces were equal front to rear, if you now clumsily add some drive force to the front wheels, the resultant force will now be larger than that of the rear axle, and you'll begin to get more slip from the front tyres - a power on understeer effect. If you do this to the rear wheels, you get some power on oversteer effect. Again, none of this has anything to do with which wheels are turned relative to the car body.
As an antedote to obtaining vehicle dynamics misinformation from messrs Clarkson, Hammond and May, I would like (again!) to recommend "Fundamentals of Vehicle Dynamics" by Gillespie. It's an expensive book, so, perhaps best to ask your library to get it in for you. Read more
sorry, error!


excellanta
you flench