April 2009
Hi All,
I had a problem on the way to work yesterday morning where I seemed to lose power, I went to over take a tractor and it was like i had no turbo kicking in, i coudn't even get past 60mph and it took forever to get there.
I pulled over and turned off the engine and when pulling away everything seemd fine again.I had turbo and plenty of power and it ran fine on the way home from work too.
I would just like to know anyones views as wondering if this might be the start of a bigger problem, the car has done 98,000 miles and has a full service histroy having just been serviced last month.
Any help is gretaly apreciated,
escortgti
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Hi all,
getting an odd shudder through this car as I accelerate hard in any gear higher than 3rd. Shudder abates when you ease off the gas. Just noticed that the previous owner fitted a new coil spring at the front o/s.
How can I check that its the correct type? And could it cause a shudder under load? I noticed that when I had a 15-stone passenger in the front passenger seat the other day the shudder was virtually gone.
many thanks
tt Read more
Thanks Peter.
Thought as much myself, and had it into the local garage for a look during the week. Bizarrely, was told that driveshaft problems cannot cause a shudder in a vehicle. So I took it away :(
(Back story is: clutch, flywheel and starter were renewed 3000 miles ago. Has had a shudder for about 1k miles. Local garage have renewed a tyre [fair enough], both outer c/v joints [I was skeptical], grand total of £250 to no avail. Then told me it had to be the flywheel, despite it having already been done. So, doubtfully took it back to the place that fitted clutch [160 mile journey] only for them to point to a wobbly o/s driveshaft. Took it back to Local garage, who still maintain that wobbling driveshafts would not cause a shudder. I'm not a mechanic but even I know they are talking cobblers. Why they think they can nod their heads wisely and talk of clutches when they've already had 2 cracks at the job, lightening me of £250 in the process, is beyond me.)
thanks for the reply-
tt
Hi all.
My C5 HDi Estate 136bhp diesel, went into LOS yesterday, the message I saw on the screen was esp motor failure.
Can anybody direct me to what I should be looking for please?
I have looked through the previous threads, they all assume I know where various parts are located on the car, I don't.
I don't know if it's related but I had the brake warning light (ABS warning) come on at the same time.
Thanks for any tips you might be able to pass on. Read more
Hi Rattle. Spot on mate. That was the first thing I thought of too. So when the rain stopped this morning, (It was piddling down yesterday) I dug into it.
The problem turned out to be a 20a miniblade fuse blown, No. 4 in the fuse box behind the battery. I've replace that and roadtested and it all seems A1 now, the abs light is out as well, guess they must run off the same fuse?
I really miss the old Moggie 1000's, all we needed for them was a hammer and chisel.
Bellboy, thanks for your input.
Hi all,
Due to credit crunch britain etc etc I have found myself in need of some ready cash in a hurry, and selling my car was an (unwelcome) option. Just thought I would share my experience. I used a web based car buying outfit based in Enfield (not sure if I can name them) who to my amazement actually gave me, after inspection, the amount offered online - I was sure that the actual offer would be considerably less - particularly since they offered full book trade value which most dealers were not prepared to offer as a downward part exchange! Given that this was only £500 less than I bought the car for 9 months ago I feel quite pleased wth the outcome.
Now here's the 'am I mad or just in denial ' part. I have bought an 'x' reg Megane 1.6 sport alize to replace an '03' 2.0 Passat. And I've found I actually prefer the Megane!! Ride is comparable, performance just as good, MPG much better (42 V 28), and it has some toys on it the Passat didn't (sunroof and aircon/stereo controls on the wheel). Now I might just be lucky, but for £1300 I have a car with no rust, full service history, one previous owner, 59000 miles, and one that feels and looks virtually brand new - in fact the Passat had more rattles internally!
I am aware of the potential faults with a Renault, but to be honest at this sort of value - and having checked prices for the likely parts like coil packs etc - I am quids in.
Just goes to show that there ARE great cheap motors out there, AND that in these current conditions a down trade doesn't have to leave you feeling depressed and embarrassed about what you drive!
I will let you know if my feelings change..... Read more
Okay- company is webuyanycar.com, I think they have a number of inspection/purchasing centres around the country. All I would say is be honest with your on line appraisal - if there is a dent or scratch on a panel note it correctly - and then there should be no cause for the inspection to throw up a nasty surprise regarding the valuation.
Trapped in a hospital waiting room for several hours on Thursday, I picked up a recent copy of Autocar. In it was an article on the Jaguar XFR, which the author of the article followed in a small Lexus. The Jaguar was driven by its development director (I think), and the author of the article chose to remark on a clear indication of the Jaguar driver's high level of skill: the minimal appearance of brake lights in full flow across country and their momentary appearance well ahead of traffic-light stops.
This rings true to me. Think about all those brake lights flashing ahead of you on the motorway, mostly indicating that the car is too close to the one in front.
Discuss? What else might be considered to be a sign of very good driving? Read more
I always thought the term 'scrub' implied some serious slip angles at one end of
the car (or both).
Thats my understanding of it as well, certainly not engine braking...
Hi
I now live in Turkey and brought my Xantia over from the UK. I have now found that my car is unknown here and servicing and repairs are a problem.
Following a service I was told that the front wishbone needed replacing. After a long search the garage finally found one and fitted it.
On collecting my car I find that the suspension will not return to the normal ride height.
Why would this be and how can it be cured? Read more
Does the hieght selector lever move it up and down properly? If so I would suggest that either the corrector is sticking or the plastic link is broken.
Hello all. I am off to Cardiff on Sunday with my girlfriend and her mother (cue any number of Les Dawson jokes).
We are going from Chester to Cardiff the A49 way, but I am thinking of coming back through the Brecon Beacons National Park, I believe the area is quite picturesque going through the Black Mountains? Any advice people? Thanks! Read more
...But I did like Cardiff. Seems a friendly place....
Unless you're a Swansea fan.
How do i adjust the AVC on the standard jag audio unit (i have a classic model so no sat nav etc)
also has the unit an aux on the read to hardwire an ipod onto it?
thanks
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My external temperature sensor has a fault as sometimes the dash will display --- instead of the outside temperature, other times I get stupid readings like 50c. I can live with this but does this sensor also tell the ECU what the outside temperature is and this affects the fuel/air flow ratio? Read more
A quick search on ebay and I've found one for £4.95 with free p&p
tinyurl.com/c4gsuv
HELP HELP HELP......
I have just got myself a 190e 2.0 1991 on a 'H' plate, its got around 65,000 on it and is a real cracker.......apart from the fact she idles about 15-18,000 rpm whilst in park and neutral then drops to 1000ish when you put her in drive. Its pot luck as to wether or not she stalls or the idle fluctuates between 500 to 1800 rpm.
Sometimes she drives ok but always idles really roughly.
I have changed the dizzy cap and rota arm and was told the previous owner had the fuel distributer and fuel filter changed all to no avail. I have also tried a new idle control valve again to no avail.
I have since re fitted the original valve but was wondering which way round it went?? I dropped it putting it on and have tried it both ways round and the problem still persists, basically i am asking does the arrow point towards the bottom of the inlet manifold or the top??
I have limited funds to get the car going so was wondering if anyone had any ides of what to try or possible causes of my problem.....
Thanks in advance Jon. Read more
It sounds like either the throttle plate is set too far open, or there's an air leak alling air to bypass the throttle.
There will be a method to set up the base throttle position - sorry, I don't know it off the top of my head.
It will be along the lines of;
- clean the throttle body and throttle plate
- slacken the throttle position switch adjustment
- fully slacken the throttle stop screw - also fully slacken the cable
- snap the throttle open, and allow it to shut with the spring (the plate should lock into the body)
- screw in the throttle stop screw until the throttle plate bumps free of the bore
- tighten another quarter of a turn, and lock the locknut
- reset the throttle position switch
- reset the throttle cable
It will be worth asking on either mbclub or mercedesclub.org to find the correct method.
If there is either too much throttle opening, or a major leak, the idle speed controller will not be able to compensate - it's only meant to control/compensate for small changes
Browse
yes i have a mat but i have it fixed to the floor so i don't think it has moved, but i am going to check that just incase