April 2009
It's finally arrived, come one, come all to the greatest show on Earth - maybe.
We've had qualifying, which finished about tens minutes ago.
SPOLIER ALERT,
If you don't want to know the qualifying positions, don't read the next post!
Boris Read more
I recently picked up a 55 reg Picasso and have noticed an odd buzz that sounds either electrical or like a small fan. It is coming from the small (10p coin sized) vent on the passenger side between the radio and glovebox. It's nearly always present but I have no idea what it is, or whether it could be something about to fail, but it's definitely not dodgy trim or rattle. It's the exclusive model with digital climate control and the ventilated glovebox - could it be anything to do with this?
Thanks Read more
Hi, thanks for the reply, I have the service book but not the owners guide, however I've just found the PDF online and it is indeed the interior temperature sensor. It doesnt seem to make a difference if air con etc.. is on or off, it just seems to gently hum most of the time regardless.
Anyone know if the roadworks are complete between Whitchurch and Chester - going to Frodsham and prefer A41 to A49 -
Dave Read more
Never rated them much, but I had a go today in a friend's car. Nice motor especially on a sunny day - meaty engine (1.8 version) - but not much grunt. Comfy ride, no "scuttle shake" I could detect. RWD delights of course and it holds quite tenaciously of course. No need for reversing sensors when the roof is down either !
Now that car with a decently big engine (2.0 FSI maybe ?) would be something ! Read more
They're not bad cars just far too slow for me.
So how fast do you want to go on UK public roads?
This question is about a 1.8 petrol Ford Focus.
I would like to know from any mechanics about what the possible causes may be for the following symptoms :
1. When starting the car from cold in the morning and during the first journey the temperature guage needle after rising slightly then drops slightly (I sometimes actually see it happen) when for example stopped at traffic lights.
2. Secondly, after switching off the engine and then I turn the ignition such that the engine is off but the temperature guage is functional, the needle usually has dropped quite a bit from the mid position even though I have only just switched the engine off (so it is still hot).
3. Lastly, I feel the needle is never exactly mid way between cold and hot but slightly nearer the cold end. Would this suggest a head gasket problem ?
Would any of these symptoms suggest a problem with the coolant pump, radiator or any related component ?
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Why do you continue to post the same questions on this forum again and again and ignore the advice you're given each time ?
Afternoon,
Car failed its MOT on emissions today. The tester said there is 3 reasons why this could fail - Cat, Lamba sensor and anothere sensor (cant remeber what he said)
First fast idle
CO level = 0.61 %vol (0.30 maximum allowed)
second fast idle test
CO level = 0.50 %vol (0.30 max allowed)
Can anyone help with what i need to replace - from the above results? Read more
Car passed the MOT. It was the Catalytic converter that was at fault.
hi all, i have a problem with my 04 citroen c8 2.0 16v hdi. i rebuilt the complete engine as it was in a flood. i started it and it started first time which i was very pleased about. but now what happens is when i start it, it runs fine but after 2 minutes it will start to misfire and give smoke which smells strong and looks white in colour. ive eliminated the anti pollution filter by removing it.but the smoke and misfire still persists.the smoke use to occur before engine rebuild aswell. if theres anyone here who is a technician please let me know. Read more
Hi guys. I have a 307 SW(SE) with and HD110 engine
Recently it has been very low on power. I had the MAF changed and there is a noticable difference at the 2800/3000 levels but it still seems sluggish at lower revs and when its cold. The air filter has been changed and I was going to change the fuel filter and disconnected the 3 fuel feeds and the electrical connection. Unfortunately the wrench I had was not big enough for the housing top,so I reconnected the fuel leads etc
The car started and idled over without any problem so at this time I decided to use a charge and start cable (I have never used this before) to boost the battery on another car. During this time the 307 started to blow smoke from the exhaust - it has never done this before
There are no fault codes and showing and I cannot see how the charge and start cable has caused this problem
So I have 2 questions :
1) according to Haynes it is almost impossible to unscrew the filter top without damaging the housing. Is this true or is there a technique I can use to avoid damage
2) does anybody have any idea why the smoke has suddenly appeared? Read more
Hi Steve.
Thanks for the information - here's a bit of an update
1) I also have 406 and could unscrew the fuel filter top using a socket, that seemed fairly easy. I have to admit that I was surprised to hear that the whole unit should be changed but I can undderstand that the pumps etc are extremely sensitive so a couple of questions here
a) Is this a dealer only part or would general motor factor shops stock them?
b) Does the housing and filter come as seperate units , and if so are they easily damaged when putting them together?
2) You mention that the EGR valve is often stuck, is this easily resolved, or an expensive repair?
3) I didn't use jump leads but a lead from cigarette socket to socket to give the other battery a charge before starting
4) The smoking exhaust disappeared as soon as I gave it a reasonable test run, and there hasn't been any since so I am not sure what the cause was
Hi all,
I just bought an H reg. Audi 80 2.0E saloon, low mileage at 51k. The logbook says it was registered in May 1991 which I assume means it's a MkII. However, is there a way I can double check, i.e. via the chassis number?
Also, the engine is a little bit lumpy in idle, less so when it's warmed up but still quite shuddery which doesn't seem to effect it's acceleration. Hasn't cut out on me and isn't a major problem at the moment but want to rectify early if possible. Where do I start to track down the cause?
One more thing, probably completely stupid question... I've noticed a constant, whine/hum coming from under the car which is on even with the vehicle standing. Is this normal and something to do with the fuel system or brakes or something?
Thanking you in advance.
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Dang, forgot to mention I did that, with brand new Bosch ones but no change to the lumpy idling. And tbh the old plugs weren't dire, not pitted and a relatively healthy brown but I changed them anyway. In terms of wot's left to do with the initial servicing I've got to change the oil, fuel filter and air filter. Once that's done if there's no change to the lumpy idling it'll be real problem solving time.
It's idling at about 900rpm at the moment which I assume is okay, unless it's too low and needs to be higher?
Here is something that is puzzling me and maybe any mechanics amongst you can shed some light on it please.........I've been told that the handbrake pressure on a Spectra bus is stronger (better) now, than when it was last tested, the bus is in constant daily use and driven by many different drivers, so is this possible and if so, how? Read more
>>The only way...
Are there S or Z cams?, slack adjusters?
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Am I remembering correctly? Were there no adverts during the whole race on Eurosport??