April 2009
Can anyone recommend a competitive deal on Fully Synth Engine OIl
Suitable for PD Engines ( must meet VW 505.01 5w-40 )
Cheapest I have found so far is Comma PD 5w-40 local Auto factors £26.53
I thank you all Read more
Does anyone now the procedure for getting a new lock barrel to fit an original key for a Renault Master van please?
TN Read more
My father has been done for alledged speeding in a 30mph zone (doing 42)
This is in Bucks.
He is the registered keeper but the offence was on the 21 03 09 but the NIP was issued on the 15.04 09
this puts it outside the 14 days doesnt it?
ignoring the was he wasnt he arguement ,can he get off this on that technicality,if so
what should he do with the NIP as he must return it , does he just say yes he was the driver but its outside the 14 days or is that not the case
any help please i guess after 60 years of flawless driving without any points he is entitled to a "break" if he can get one.
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My father has been done for alledged speeding in a 30mph zone (doing 42)
This is in Bucks.
Anywhere near the French Horn perchance??
MD
i own a UK registered car in the UK, use it on a British license and also have my uk international drivers license, which i gt after exchanging my Zimbabwean license, both my parents are of UK citizenship so have a permanent address on which my car is registered, but now my hassle is whether i will be allowed to drive that car to Russia .. as i am a non resident of the UK, but have a permanent address which i frequently visit. and the car is registered on.
according to the BRITISH law:
you can temporarily export a car for 11.5 months and still use the uk number plates and pay the UK road tax and M.O.T.
RUSSIAN:
every foreigner is entitled to usage of their personal vehicle for a maximum period of 11,5 months at a time with no payment of tax or customs duty on the car. but with a 3rd party insurance that amounts to 40 pounds a year..cheap!
so if anyone can advise me on this,i would greatly appreciate it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Read more
My sister-in-law's engine has been giving intermittent misfiring problems for a few months. The car's mileage is 92,000 and appears generally well maintained.
The spluttering can happen at any time any place any speed. It can run for a couple of days, doing long journeys without doing it.
It has been recently serviced...new plugs, filters etc. She asked the mechanic to bear this fault in mind, but it was no different after the service.
2 days ago she limped into a motorway service area & called the AA. He changed the ignition coil & HT leads. The car ran perfectly for 70 miles, then did it again.
I've had a good look at the rubber vacuum hoses - no fault found. Also wondered about dirty connections onto sensors/coils, but can't see anything obvious.
Any suggestions will be most welcome.
Thanks
John Read more
Hi James
As I understand, the splutter happens at any point...sometimes at a steady high speed cruise, sometimes decellerating, crawling in traffic etc...no pattern.
The plugs have been renewed....made no difference.
Crankcase breather is as clean as a whistle....no oil, mayonaise or anything. I blew though all the pipework myself, just to be sure.
Must ask Sis-in-law to check her mirror when it splutters, in case it smokes.
John
I have just fitted new 16 valves and head gasket to my 1.6 16 valve astra sxi on 51 reg. i have fitted a new cambelt however when i attempt to start the car, the exhaust gases are coming through the air box which has totally confused me and the car will not run. i am getting 175 on each pot through the pressure tester so there is good compression on all 4 pots.
the only thing i can think of is that the cams are the wrong way round.
can anyone offer me advice
cheers
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Cam belt timing is wrong. Regards Peter
I have just been browsing various motorhome forums and come across lots of postings regarding what owners of the X250 series of Fiat based conversions describe as severe judder when reversing.
From the postings this sounds like a major problem affecting many, many vehicles, yet I have not heard a word of it before, is it a case of commercial vehicles having a very low public awareness? If this was a problem affecting the Mini, or a flash BMW, I suspect it would get a mention on Top Gear, or even the main News on TV, but who fights for the commercial boys?
For more info see: tinyurl.com/c3drcg
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ISTR recall it is something to do with reverse being slightly higher than 1st gear, oddly. Can be cure by fitting a lower final drive, apparently.
The problem affects campers more than the original van because they run so close to the maximum permissible weight for the chassis.
Complete newbie here, so please excuse my ignorance.
3 weeks ago I bought this Zafira - seems in good condition. It's done about 59,000 miles.
We took a family trip out and discovered that the cigarette lighter didn't work (trying to charge our sat nav). On our return I went to change the fuse, and inadvertantly pulled out the ECU fuse. realising my mistake, I instantly replaced it. The cigarette lighter fuse was indeed blown, so I started up the car to go and get a replacement. I got about 500 yards down the road and the car started chugging (safe mode?) and wouldn't go above 1000 revs. I was able to get the car into a layby, but then couldn't get the car to restart. My rescue service came and tried to get me going - after a lot of white smoke the car did eventually run again (seemed completelly back to normal).
I drove the car home and left it for about 2 hours to cool down. When I went to try and start it again, it turned over and I got a slightly burnt smell.
I got someone to tr and clear the codes for me, but this one keeps coming back:
Total number of fault codes: 1
P0380 - Glow Plug Circuit
(0B) - Present
I have spoken to the garage that I bought it from, and they are happy to help, but the are well over an hours drive away. If there is a reasonably economical fix, I'd rather get it fixed locally than try to get it back to the dealer.
Any thoughts would be much appreciated
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Hi All
I have a little Pug 106 1.1XN 1993 which when cold starts first time and runs very well however after about 10 mins (ie when its hot) it then starts to cut out, then dies totally and cannot be restarted.
I removed one of the plugs when it was hot and there was NO spark? So its clearly an electrical problem.
(This model has a carb and not fuel injection)
I thought this problem might be the coil, but this has been replaced and the problem is the same, i have also checked the dizzy cap and rotor arm (these are by no means new but seem ok.. and seeing as it runs fine when cold didnt think this would be the cause? )
I dont want to start chucking money at it and buying new bits its just not worth it... has any one had the same problem or might beable to help me diagnose whats wrong??
Thanks Read more
Ignition amp replaced.. working fine now.
Thanks
These models are all bare from the top down, all British beauties - out in the open and au natural ~ www.cornwallclassiccarhire.co.uk/ Read more
>>>>>and tell them that driving it was better than sex... ;-)<<<<<
You couldn't have been doing it right (hehe!)
I like my Almera 1.8 SE with auto-trans, the power steering, the air-con, elec windows/mirrors CD player and most of all - the utter reliability combined with good fuel economy but ... nothing beats (not even that!) driving a classic on a fine summer's day on the 'open' road, and oh! the smell of Connolly leather :)
I used to work on all these 'classics' and they were not soooooo bad ... apart from the Stag of course!!
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I have a PD golf, my local VW dealer sells Quantum 505.01 PD oil for around £18.70 plus Vat.