April 2009
My dear late brother has been gone some 10 years now.
He was a Navy chap, First Electrical Officer or some such (yes i'm ashamed i should know), he continued in the Merchant fleet, and then had various supervisory but very hands on roles in civvie street....yes you guessed it, he got the brains and the looks..;)
I recall many conversations, but one question he always wanted to know was the reason for some car gearboxes to whine so much in reverse.
I'm sure he knew the reason and was just seeing if i could make a guess at the answer, i was reminded of this unanswered question when i reversed a particularly noisy one up a street yesterday.
So come on chaps why are some cars' gearboxes so very noisy in reverse?
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I was sent a mailer for a device (can't recall the name - leaflet went in bin) which fitted behind the grille and which was in some limited way a parking sensor but was clearly intended to fox a speed trap - every image in the flyer was about speed guns.
Nowehere did it say they were legal and it had some mealy mouthed reference to calling them to dicuss legal status so I assume they aren't but I am idly curious to know if they are or not.
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ive got a legal device that "fools" all speed , radar , traps....its called my right foot!!!!!! ( no offence to any one who answers to the name heather by the way )
Changed the discs and pads and now when i am going very slow-lets say 5 MPH- and i take my foot off the accelerator there is a really loud clunk coming from the passenger side front. It does not do this when i am braking or going at higher speeds.
I have checked and the caliper and wire clip is all on correct. I even put the old disc and pads back on and it was still doing it.
Help Me!!!!!!
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The car went to the mechanic today and it is the near side rear engine mount that has gone!!
I think it is just coincidence that i changed the discs and pads and this happened.
Thanks for the help.
can anyone explain why the traction control is cutting in just as the car is moving off ie ( low speed no wheelspin) all wheel sensors have been replaced but still records a fault with both front sensors Read more
not sure about that but il certainly check it out
I have been too shy to ask this question for a while but the picture of HJ that appears above the Telegraph question page and the picture here look like totally different gentlemen?? Is there only one HJ!
Saturday night special - left alone ! Read more
nowt wrong with the term
Hacko
hi,
deciding not to go for the volvo as per my previous thread have seen a mg zs td 2005 car.
got 45k on the clock. 12 months mot. on for £2999 at local car sales garage. I will borrow some of the money from my parents and pay them back. I have had a look on the car from the outside, it looks clean etc.
I know mg have gone down but is that a bad thing for buying an mg?
Its a 115bhp model
The ball is over in your court guys..talk me into or out of it! Read more
Check the built quality carefully as some werent very well screwed together and check especially on the edge of panels for flaking paint and rust - doesnt affect all but some were very shoddy, I know this from cleaning a fleet of 04/05 MGs and Rovers.
No HGF problems indeed although my old Rover 420 diesel which has the same basic engine did suffer problems with the EGR which can be by-passed, but my car was alot older than the one your looking at so it would be unlikley.
It is an engine that I adore, not quiet by any means, but has low-down torque from idle and has a straightforward nature that is sadly missing from todays diesels. They can do big miles if serviced properly so if you must do a commute so big, its a worthy choice, plus the ZS handles nicely.
Id go for it personally, I miss my old Rover very much.
Hi
When I start my HDi, the battery warning light stays on and is followed by three beeps.
The voltage on the battery even with teh engine revved is just over 12 volts.
Everything electrical still works, i.e the lights, indicators, wipers, washers etc.
So am I looking at a busted Altenator or might it be the dreaded BSI module??
Thanks
MPH Read more
Hi
Just an update.
Got the Alternator overhauled and it turned out that the regulator pack was busted. Put the Alternator back on, started the car but the battery light stays on!!!
Alternator is pushing out 14.4V to the battery though but the engine needs a good rev before this commences.
Any ideas about the light staying on??
Would a BSI reset be of any use??
Thanks
MPH
The Ford Focus Style models come with "Design" wheels according to the Ford website. From the photo they look like alloy wheels, but are not described as alloy wheels. Higher models in the range (e.g. Zetec) have wheels that are described as alloy wheels. Any idea what the "Design" wheels actually are??
c.f. www.ford.co.uk/Cars/Focus/Exteriordesign and click on"wheels" Read more
It's very clear on the picture contained within the link you provided that it is a steel wheel with a plastic cover. The area on the picture to look at is the wheel valve it is clearly comming through a large hole in the plastic trim
Carse
Need to re gas my porsche 911 1987 3.2 sse
Where can i buy the adaptors that fit to the old style R12 fittings for use with the newer R134 connectors to enable me to use the re-gasing canisters from halfords
{moves to tech matters for larger audience viewing} Read more
Am I right in thinking that you're contemplating filling an R12 system with R134?
I don't think the two systems are compatible without modification - hopefully an expert in AC will confirm?
That aside, for the price of a DIY can, the system can be re-filled professionally for similar money and you've got some comeback. Something a can that claims to fix leaks, ect won't.
If you do decide upon the DIY route, and end up taking it somewhere to be put right afterwards, then please follow the advice in the following links.
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=42800&...e
ps, Dave N is one of our resident AC experts.
pps, the following 2 threads make for interesting reading as well.
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?v=e&t=22...1
&
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=17944
I have noticed that the bottom rear engine mounting through bolt cannot be fully tightened because the thread appears to be stripped. I understand that this is a common problem on this model because the capitve nut is manufactured from aluminium.
Does anybody know what thread the bolt is and if it is possible to fit a nut on the thread that protrudes out of the captive nut or of any modification that has been made to resolve this problem? Read more
the nut is 10mmby1.5mm or its a normal 17mm a/f nut.its not ally as far as im aware!
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doesnt sound like a tarmac squeal though does it :-)