March 2009
Hi ladies and gents.
I need a bit of advice.
My 2006 Ford Focus 1,6 Zetec Climate (58,000 miles) is 1 month out of manurfacturers warranty and this morning the power steering pump failed. Ford have offered to pay 25% of the bill (before VAT).
My 2nd problem is that during the vehicles 1st MOT last month I was advised there was a "very very minor weep of oil coming from the sump" (testers words). The advice was to keep an eye on it, shouldn't be a problem. Well this has now turned into quite a major oil leak.
The total bill I am looking at is just under £1000 on a car that is 1 month out of warranty, full service history etc etc.
Any advice on where I stand legally on this would be much appreciated.
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Hi I've recently bought an ax 11 tre. (I Love this litlle car)! but somtimes when I unlock the door it instantly locks again. you can hear the central locking working. If I quickly undo the door handle whilst unlocking I can open the door but the central locking continues to switch on and off a few times afterwards until I guess it gives up. but the passenger door remains locked. This is an intermitant problem. I should also mention the passenger door has been replaced but all lock parts are original. Please help! Read more
Just an update and future reference fo anyone else with this problem.
After stripping the drivers door and finding nothing wrong, I found that the problem was in the passanger door latch. When the door latch was open everything work perfectly but when the door was closed the problem existed. Rather than stripping door I sprayed the door latch in every place I could get to with wd40.... Problem solved. Maybe only temporary but now I know where to look in future.
My ex has an '03 Lexus IS200 SportCross. Sadly, on two recent occasions, a disabled relative has tried to get out of the car before it had stopped moving. The first time, the door was taken off....the second time she drove into a horizontal barrier pole which was the safest course of action. This has left a huge gouge on the bonnet, the car still drives ok, but she is adamant not to claim on her insurance again.
Main dealer price for a new bonnet is astronomical, and I have offered to try and source a replacement given her unfortunate circumstances. Any help please? Read more
try nicedeals.co.uk they might be able to help
noticed the earth cable from the battery was hanging off yesterday causing it not to start so i put a ring terminal on and it started again . then wen i came out this morning it failed to start again . tried jump starting it with no joy . also changed the battery to no avail after the old one went dead . the car turns over but doesnt start . can any one help please Read more
Hi
Sounds like the immobiliser...I have a similar problem after putting a new engine in my 306. If you need help email me at rossinatrench@hotmail.co.uk ;)
It looks like my endowment (discussed in a previous IHAQ thread) is finally going to be surrendered. The value shows I'll have more than enough to get my central heating done, leaving around £3000 spare in my pocket.
As the MOT is due fairly soon on the Espace (L reg TD with 190k) I'm not sure whether to hold money over to have work done, sell it and get a similar car now, or invest in something a bit newer (yes, I know "invest" is the wrong word for an Espace). SWMBO has seen a 2000 model TD Espace at a local dealer for £1800 and is trying to convince me I should go and see it - service history, lots of toys, a year's MOT and 6 months' tax, just over 120k. Big question - should I even consider it, or replace the current car with something similar, or stick with what I've got? I really like our current Espace, and it's been very reliable mechanically, but it is starting to seem a little tired and I can see a big bill looming at the MOT.
I've driven most of the alternatives, and none of them have the same level of comfort and driver appeal that the Espace has. By the way, before anyone asks, yes, we do need a 7 seater, and yes, it does have to be a diesel due to the miles we do. Read more
None taken. I just don't want anyone to have to go through the misery I did !
Still have the nervous tic whenever the E word crops up.......
;-)
As an S80 driver I was pleased to read his final comment:
'But a very pleasing consideration is what it says about you.
Not a BMW driver. Not an Audi driver. Not a Mercedes driver. Not a Jaguar driver.
Probably someone to be trusted, then.'
So, what other brands could you say that about??
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The 0-60 time of 12.6 seconds implies 'with difficulty' :-)
Similar performance to the 90 bhp diesel Peugeot 406 or the Mondeo mk1/2 1.8 TD in other words. OK in the higher gears where the torque helps you out, but moving off from rest or trying to drive laden is hugely frustrating
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Trouble is I have now noticed the coolant temperature warning light on the dash board does not light up when the ignition in turned on. I'm pretty sure it was coming on before but I can't be certain.
I have an older 1995 106 XND and the light does come on with the ignition and goes off when the engine starts.
Should this be the same for the newer car?
I have checked the leads going to the sensor on the water pump and there is 12v there. I also pulled the leads off the old cars sensor and the light still come on when the ignition is turned on.
I took the radio out of the old car and reached round the back of the instrument display and removed the bulb for the warning light, I then did the same to the new car only to find that the new instrument display does not have removable bulbs at the back!
Does anyone know if the light should come on when the ignition is turned on? - if it is - any suggestions how I can fix this problem.
Many thanks Read more
I have finally had the time to take the dashboard out to see if I can replace the bulb, to find there are no bulbs! All the instrument lights are non removable leds. The one in question doesn't appear to be blown. i.e there isn't any black marking anywhere.
Which brings me back to my initial question whether or not the warning light should be on or off when the ignition is turned on?
If the light is a non replaceable led type, is there any need for it to have a bulb check when the ignition is turned on?
My 51 Reg Peugeot 307 1.6 Rapier cuts out at speed (usually on the fast lane of the motorway!). The "Anti Pollution Fault" shows, the engine light comes on and it cuts out. So far I have managed to cruise over to the hard shoulder, turn the ignition off and re-start it with no problems (although the Anti Pollution Fault and Engine Light stay on until it has been turned off and re-started a couple of times).
When it first happened (quite some time ago) I had it plugged in and they told me the Fault Code was P1632 - Smart alternator faults sensor/circuit malfunction. They said it could not be narrowed down to one or the other, both were costly and they were afraid that if they fixed one fault it could actually turn out to be a different fault and I could end up paying a fortune correcting non-existent faults!
I have learnt to live with it and found that if I stay at around 80mph it doesn't seem to happen. Inevitably, however, it's easy to creep over that speed and when I look down and look at the speedo, I panic and ease off the throttle - with that, I hear the bleep, see the Anti Pollution Fault and head towards the hard shoulder. I've got it down to a fine art now - I just cruise onto the hard shoulder, turn the ignition key off and back on, put the car in 2nd gear, whilst I am still rolling and continue on my way!
I'm not a "useless" woman driver and I've got some theories on this - it doesn't seem to happen if I'm in 4th gear instead of 5th gear (although the engine doesn't particularly enjoy it) and also I think it might actually be the "easing off" the throttle that makes it happen rather than the speed I'm doing - although I've obviously got to slow down eventually! Are there any "wizards" out there who have got any ideas what it could be?
I was having a new radio re-programmed on the car yesterday and the very helpful man did another diagnostic check and said that nothing at all came up - it hasn't happened for about 3 weeks (as I haven't been over 80mph) so I'm not sure how long the ECU remembers things for?! This guy reckons I should get the ignition coil and spark plugs changed. It sounds reasonable to me (at least cost-wise anyway!) but I just thought I'd see if anyone out there could shed any light on it for me before I go throwing money away!
I'm sorry this post is so long but I've tried googling the fault and I can't find anything and you all sound so clever on here!! I can hear you now saying "useless woman driver!" I'd be so grateful if you could help this damsel in distress and avoid me being ripped off by Peugeot!
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I have exactly the same problem. Did you find any solution?
hi i have a pug partner 1.9 diesel which i have just fitted second hand diesel pump its a lucas pump,,, but now i need to by pass the immobiliser ..how do i do it cheers. Read more
Jonsey, click on his username and a separate window will pop up revealing his email address.
DD.
ps, please note, this doesn't work for every profile on here. Some have their profile set to 'private'.
I have had this car for 3 years now and had a missfire problem for all this time! It only tends to missfire once the car is warm, and can be especially bad once i'v been down the motorway. The thing i though is its not consistent and can have a period of a few months where it is pretty much ok, but then the missfire will all of a sudden start again. It never stalls, it just missfires and loses all power for a second or 2. I have had it in the garage, and a diagnostics has shown nothing wrong. And every time a mechanic drives it the car behaves!! I have had the coil, leads and spark plugs changed and it made no difference at all. I'm at the point where i want rid of the car but i can't sell it like this! I have read a few things online where its been suggested it could be the ECU, also could be a MAP sensor?? Any help is greatly appreciated! Read more
Had a similar issue with a Fiesta. Check the crank-case-breather(s) - mine was blocked and it was pulling oil into the engine when you lift off (i.e. to change gear).
Any blue smoke from the exhasut?
Unlikely to be the ECU IMHO
james
Browse
1/ If the PAS has just failed - unlucky. Ford are being good enough to pay 25%.
2/ Was the oil "weep" noticed & reported to a Ford dealer within the 3 year warranty period? In which case this fault should be coverd under warranty.
Good luck