January 2009
I know this has been discussed here few times but I just wanted to share my own experiences with both.
In my 323 2.0 TD I've been filling it up with Shell V-Power for past 4/5 months. Almost 3 weeks ago, I filled it up with BP Ultimate and I noticed after driving it for a bit that car was a bit more responsive. What surprised me the most was that with the same amount of diesel and same sorts of journies I got 60 miles more. I filled it up again with the BP Ultimate and the same happened and now I've filled it up with BP Ultimate for 3rd time running.
I always thought Shell VPower was better but my car has sort of proved me wrong. Has anyone else had the same sorts of experience? Read more
Haven't used the car for a couple of weeks over Christmas and now it won't start (been garaged but still cold I guess). Hope someone can point me in the right direction (I am pretty clueless about things under the bonnet, so treat me gently!).
There seems to be plenty of battery power and the ignition system comes on OK (dashboard lights all OK), but when the key is turned to fire the engine there is a horrible high pitched "grating" sound from somewhere under the bonnet (seems to be in front of the driver but it is difficult to tell) - my best description of the noise! The engine doesn't fire (not that I have persevered trying for more than a second or two with the noise).
Any idea what this could be? If so, is it easily fixable by a novice d-i-yer (without a lot of technical equipment/ramps etc)? Expensive?
Thanks.
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joee the first thing you must do is charge the battery then you may find there is nothing wrong.
Is the point simply to persuade us not to save; that any money in banks
needs to be spent rather than hoarded? Is that the intention?
I never thought of it like that, but perhaps you're right.
I almost (seems pointless getting worked up about these things) feel angry about the VAT rate cut - what a complete and utter waste of £12.5BN. Read more
>>What I think is unfair is that the HMRC limits on private pensions are much
harsher...
But a pension is effecctively pointless for a higher-rate-taxpaying pensioner.
I wasn't talking about tax, I was talking about the maximum amount of pension you're allowed to receive under HMRC rules. In my case (private sector pension) it was two thirds of my pensionable salary (which, incidentally, was "sliced" by an amount equal to the state OAP) after 40 years of service, and the minimum age at which I could have taken a pension was 50. An ex-Navy friend of mine retired at age 40 after 22 years service and immediately received a pension of £5000 p.a., which as a percentage of his salary was way above what I would have been allowed by HMRC after 22 years service. And when he reaches normal retirement age (65?) his pension will be increased in proportion to the salary of an officer of the same rank at that time!
When the lights are off (daytime) everytime i press my brakes my headlights and dashboard come on for as long as i press the brakes.
At night when all the lights are on this doesn't happen but my brake lights don't work
Any help would be great Read more
Cheers Dave
This was the problem, i had changed the bulb last week and put a single elemant bulb in the twin socket, problem solved now
not totally connected with the modern cars
i have several motorcycles , old classic ones , but thought some of you might have alloy parts on your cars
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what is the best (and cheapest) alloy polish , and protector.
I have alloy m/guards , rims and engine castings ,
I can make a lovely job with solvol (autosol) , but it fades , i,m after summot to protect the shine for a few wks / mths
what do the lads with vintage alloy cars use
I,m after something that you can buy local/internet in the UK
cheers
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Suggest something like Bilberry to clean it, followed by Meg's NXT Metal Polish, or an alloy wheel "sealant" like Poor Boy's Sealant. Chemical Guys do something similar, I highly rate the NXT Metal Polish, it polishes and then seals all in one.
I have a Mercedes 124 estate, 230 TE. Built in 1989.
The alternator has recently been replaced and seems to be functioning okay. However the battery loses charge when running with the lights on; and eventually the car fails to run. (Not very convenient during these short winter days!) With the lights off the battery seems to get enough charge. Using a clamp meter I have measured the alternator output at 25 amps when the engine idles. The battery is not 'seeing this' and only shows a flow of about 2 or 3 amps. This changes to 'minus' 10 amps when the lights are switched on. So it seems there is a 25 amp drain on the alternator; but only when the engine is running. Removing various fuses one by one doesn't make any difference. The traction control is in fault and I have removed the controller; this makes no difference to the current draw. The cruise control hasn't worked for the last 10 years. The battery is 3 years old, Bosch Silver, but seems okay. The ignition coil is as 'old as the hills', but doesn't seem to be drawing large currents.
Does anyone have some advice? Read more
Interesting comments; thank you. The car was first registered in Vienna (I bought it when I lived in Holland). Maybe it is a cold climate edition; what should I look for?
Don't the fuel pump(s) run briefly when the ignition is switched on to presurise the system? I just looked at the current flow on the power take off from the terminal block towards the bulkhead (as mentioned in my earlier post) when the ignition is turned on (but the engine not started). This peaked at 20 amps and then fell to about 8. So it is not out of the question that the fuel pumps are 'eating' all this power. Maybe I could place my trusty clamp meter somewhere convenient to measure the current flow to the fuel pumps; is there an obvious location?
i have had a small bump in my escort van an now when i try to start it the imobilsor light does not light at all and the starter does not respond at all i have checked fuses etc and am stuck any ideas would be greatfully accepted Read more
i have found the fault the immobilisor is fused on the wiper fuse and had blown cheers for your suggestions
The new Fiesta could suit my requirements well. My problem is that the Zetec version offers neither the option of the 1.6 petrol engine nor the driver's lumbar support adjustment while the Titanium comes with 16" wheels and 195/45 tyres which I suspect are ill-suited to the badly-maintained country lanes and secondary roads which make up most of my journeys.
It doesn't look as though the higher profile tyres of the Zetec (15" wheels, 195/50 tyres) are available as an option on the Titanium.
Comfort is the priority rather than the ultimate in road-holding. Any views, especially from anyone with experience of the new Fiesta? Perhaps I'm being over-nervous about the low-profile tyres?
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I've specified the sensors.
Good thinking. You won't regret it.
Where is th pollen filter situated on a 2.0D 2005 Xtype please?
Thanks Read more
thanks. great site.
As many of you know, my Charade is a lovely shade of lilac and while its a practical choice, when my son gets a bit older, dad will look like a right twit turning up to visit him in it. Not gonna sell the Charade btw before anyone goes down that road.
Im just musing it at the moment as when I decide to buy a house, I may put a few thousand towards a car for occasional use, something to treasure and valet to oblivion.
Anyway, as I was driving back from my monthly visit to my little darling, I was mulling over what sort of cars seemed right. Heres a few that came to mind. I thought either a hothatch or a small 4x4. Maybe 2k a year.
Escort RS1800 - simple, working mans hot hatch and not vulgar like a Cosworth
Audi Coupe mid early 90's - just love them
Daihatsu Fourtrack - practical so manly
Mitsubishi Colt GTi - a bit more sophisticated than a Corsa SRi
Saab 900 16v 3dr - proper Saab
Thats a few that sprang to mind. I guess its an unusual idea!
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Only thing I think when I see a HD is nice sound for a mid-life
crisis.
:-D excellent
Browse
Its good to see I'm not the only one who seemed to have found BP Ultimate diesel being slightly superior than Shell VPower. Where I work, I've got both BP and Shell just nearby and BP Ultimate is always 2p cheaper than Shell VPower. They both compete on the normal petrol/diesel price but I guess BP only charges 4p more whereas Shell adds 6p/litre to its premium diesel!