January 2009

ForumNeedsModerating

Lookng forward to shuffling up to the lino covered table & bench seat with my cracked mug of tea & kik-kat then. Read more

Dipstick

"And the first person to witter on about organ donors - donates an organ!"

I ought to donate then. I have a Yamaha and a Kawai going spare.

They both have 13 pedals mind you.

Eugene1za

HI Guys

Any advice would be great on this subject I'm a complete novice when it comes to cars so will try explain the issue as best I can. While travelling to work this morning I hit a hill and noticed the car had no power I had to gear down to 2nd just to get going I then switched off the radio and noticed the car whisteling when I put the gas pedal down basicly the sound is a mix between a fan and a drill if that makes any sense the sound only kicks in at around 2000rpm. I also noticed a massive cloud of smoke as i went through the gears but settled as I got to about 5th. Please help Thank you. Read more

Eugene1za

HI There

Thanks for the help one of the clips that hold the pipes in had snapped so just bought a new one ,installed it and car is working like a charm. cheers

apm

Hi all,

Wife and I have finally settled on replacing our 04 plate avensis (using a bit of inheritence money).

We are currently torn between a blue moon deal on a new avensis (old shape), T-spirit, D4D, black with stone leather, manual 6-speed. Cost £15700 or thereabouts (with £2800 trade in for our current car (the saving is about £6k). Other option is a June 08 Volvo S80 2.4D SE lux in dark grey, geartronic.

The Toyota has the advantage that it's brand new, and being a hatch is more convenient than the boot on the Volvo. The Volvo, however, just feels a bit more special and has a nicer interior.

Thoughts/ experience on either/ both cars appreciated!

Many thanks in advance,

Alex.

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TheOilBurner

Err, the S80 (to 2006) is the same car as the S60... just different length and width and fractionally differences to the dash.

The new S80 (from 2006) is a whole new car based on Ford's EUCD platform, the same as the new Mondeo.

meltonlad

i rang my insurance company the other day to change my address. after talking to them they told me that there was no change in my premium. but they have taken over £75 from my account so i rang them again to ask why and i was told there was a £20 admin charge and £55.39 increase on my premium. i told them that i was told there was no charge what so ever i was not even told about the admin charge. they are refunding the admin charge and say they will have to listen to the recording of the phone call from the other day but due you think they should refund the extra in the premium due to them telling me that there was no change in premium. i just think that im being screwed over. any help would be good peeps......


made make/model non-specific Read more

movilogo

Yes - I received refund when I moved to a lower crime area (though my house was burgled in the safer area!)

TonyElyod

Temp Gauge 90c as standard.
But no heat from Heater.???
Temp Light is flashing & beeping.
Water level ok..No leaks....
Have topped up water in anti freeze bottle a few times & beeping stopped.
Then the heat failed later on..
would a low coolant level cause NO HEAT.
Any suggestions appreciated.
Cant afford dealer prices.
Have friend who is "Hands on", as Im a total Newbie with Cars so will be a DIY
..Im into PCs..Nuff said..lol
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diesel dad

hi,could be a jammed thermostat, i had the same prob mines is a 2002 sdi octavia,iwould imagine that the engine layout is the same only yours is petrol,thermostat is located at the front of the engine just above the alternator held in by 2 hexi bolts be careful don.t drop them as you take them out ! because they will fall behind the alternator and you will never get them out( i know ,cause 1fell down).lucky i had 1 in my toolbox ..that cured it .be prepared for water loss as you take thermostat housing out..good luck...p.s. it only took about 30mins to do..

mikeweathers

The CD4E automatic gearbox has not achieved the best reputation, often giving up the ghost at 80 -90,000 miles (see posts on this topic)

My question is:
What is the first symptom to appear?
I always believed that slipping in reverse was an early indication...is this out-of date? Read more

bdsteve

The rotor arm follower on my Merc 260E, (metal cylinder connecting rotor arm to end of Cam Shaft, inside distributor), sheared recently after about 108k miles. I replaced this and now again I have the same problem (@ 111k miles), and am disabled. Before I buy another follower/connector and suffer the same fate again, has anyone any experience of this issue ? Also, since its happened twice, can anyone suggest what is likely to be causing this ?? Cost of the item is not an issue, but my confidence in the reliability of my car has dived ...... I have had it 13+ years with no problems until now.
Thanks "bdsteve" Read more

Number_Cruncher

If this is an M103 engine, then, it isn't a distributor as such - the rotor arm extension shaft bolts directly onto the camshaft timing chainwheel. All there is on the shaft is the rotor arm - there is no advance mechanism or any bearings on the shaft.

Without seeing how the shaft has been fractured, it's difficult to say what happened. I would check;

- that the camshaft is well located fore/aft, i.e. its thrust bearing is correctly retaining the shaft. IIRC, once the timing chainwheel is loose, the camshaft can move about a bit.

- that the timing chain is not loose. A quick check is to rotate the engine until the camshaft is aligned, and then check to see how far beyond the timing mark the crankshaft sits. If it's more than 2 or 3 degrees, it's time for a new chain. Is the timing chain tensioner working properly?

- that the engine is not misfiring

- that the extension shaft, when bolted onto the camshaft is rotating true, i.e., that the assembly is balanced.

The 2nd and 3rd points are to make sure that the shaft is not subject to extreme angular accelerations - if this is the case, be thankful that the cam hasn't snapped!



carlwest

hello, i need a bit of advice on the best car data check service for car traders (new to it).
i recently used AutoCheck who is provided by Experian , i chose the multiple service which says upto 5 searches for £25.00 which i thought wasnt a bad price, then after just 2 check it saying i have no more checks available and have to pay again !! .

has anyone used or does anyone no of a good company to use.

any info would be good, thanks carl
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L'escargot

says up to 5 searches .........


Up to 5 searches. Read the terms and conditions covering the actual number of searches you get. It might depend on the comprehensiveness of the checks.
ma

Hi All,
A bit of help if possible. The rear heater on my recently aquired Galaxy Tdi has heater plug open circuit according to a recent scan, which I have ordered. Out of curiosity I scanned the rest of the heater and came up with 00926 terminal 30, 01189 position motor for air distribution front, and 01271 motor for temperature flap-v68. The air con doesnt work and hasnt for a couple of years, which i was going to have regassed this week, but every thing else appears to, air distribution dial sends air to correct places, temperature control changes from hot to cold as expected, and front and rear fans work at correct speeds. I cleared the codes but they came back immediately. Can any one tell me what they mean please? The terminal 30 one threw me!. Car is 2002 51 Reg 1.9 TDI 115 PD.
Regards

Matt
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jc2

I thought terminal 30 is Bosch code for permanently live power supply.

Alebear

I am thinking of changing the wheels on my trailer. At present, it has 8 inch wheels - which means that I am always very careful to keep my speed low when towing.

I think that from a point of view of safety and ease, it would be good to move up to 13 inch wheels. This gives me more scope in tyre purchasing, and less trouble if I travel at a higher speed.

What would I need to do other than buying new wheels and mudguards?

Is there any advice that would be useful to me?

slt Read more

John S

I think the idea is good, but I reckon your problem could be finding 13" car wheels with the correct stud pattern to fit the current suspension units. As suggested you'll probably need new suspension units designed to take car hubs and wheels. When I built my trailer I sourced wheels and hubs, then bought matching suspension units. Indespension used to sell hubs with various stud PCD sizes, so a word with them is the best starting point.

JS