August 2007
People in work have started watching BBC News 24 on the web in work. Whilst I have no real problem in principle, I'm uncertain as to whether it can be done legally without a licence.
We have no other telly in the buildings - I have currently "moderated" their use !
Any views ? Read more
Following my previous post, pinking has come back again (or never really went away). Tried different fuel but no improvement.
Engine knocks when using just enough throttle to maintain steady speed (eg 40mph up a slight hill in 4th). If I add more throttle there's a short burst of mega-pinking (about 0.25 sec) then OK. Basically typical pinking.
Car has just been serviced and local garage said problem fixed with new plugs. Apparently last service had put wrong plugs in. Guess what? Last service done by Ford...
Car is still pinking as before, so does anyone have any bright ideas before I start spending silly money on diagnostics? Are there any sensors that might be playing a part in this, that I could easily replace myself?
Thanks in advance for your help.
Gary Read more
Gary
Pinking - if that's all it is - should be dealt with by the knock sensor. It has the capability, in conjuction with the ECU, to instantly retard the timing by silly amounts on any cylinder that pinks.
Either the knock-detection system isn't working [code-read needed] or this noise is something that adjusting the timing doesn't affect.
Hoping someone can help me out. The engine in question is a xu10j4r as found in the 1999 peugeot 406, 2 litre 16v lump. gearbox is a be3 box as found in a 205 1.9 gti and the flywheel is that from a 405 mi16. Strange combination but all compatible with each other. I have 3 crank sensors available to me, all exactly the same part numbers etc, 1 is from my old car, 1 is from a friends car and 1 is brand spanking new. All of them read around 380 ohms resistance which is bang on the money according to autodata, problem is all of them only generate around 1.8 volts when cranking the engine but they are supposed to be around 4 - 8 volts according to autodata. My ecu isnt getting any information at all to say that the engine is cranking and therefore will not fire. I have checked the ecu and all is in order through out the input circuits and also the loom is consistent with only a 0.6 ohm resistance start to end. I need to know what may possibly be causing the low voltage issue. The position of the crank sensor is not adjustable but I am thinking maybe it is a problem with it being to far away from the flywheels ring gear? Read more
track
OK; recap a bit. Is this an RFV engine code? [It'll be in the VIN.]
At key-on, does it prime the rail for a few seconds?
Does the fuel pump run when cranking?
What feeds have you got at the double-relay plug? The BB-code wires?
What feeds and earths do you have at the ECU?
Is the inertia switch OK?
Hi I?ve noticed a small knocking sound near the front end of the car (it?s like a double clunk, so to put it.) It mainly happens when the cars slowing down and turning, also the car seems to be getting a little under steer. Any ideas as to what the cause could be? I know it?s not the easiest of problems to diagnose just from a few sentences but any info would be appreciated. I am just hoping it?s not the steering rack as I would imagine it could be costly on the ST
Many thanks in advance
Tweak to subject line - PU
Read more
Less powerful Focii (?) have drop-arms from the front struts to the anti-roll bar that produce a very annoying rattle when the small balljoints on them wear. Does the ST have these?
I've got an old ('95) Kia pride, and the clock keeps losing 'chunks' of time.
It's fine while it's being used, but park it up for a few days, and the clock's probably 'lost' a couple of hours.
I'm wondering if it's a low voltage problem. It always starts fine, no slow churning on the starter.
I've also noticed the fuel level gauge reads substantially lower for the first few minutes of each journey, again leading me to suspect low voltage.
I keep meaning to put a voltmeter across the battery, but it's one of those things I need to do after the car hasn't been used for a few days, just before I go out in it, and it gets forgotten about until I look at the clock and think damn!
It's not a great problem, just one of those extremely irritating little things. Read more
Hi All,
I am thinking about buying a 4x4, not to take the kids to school in but to (shock! horror!) go off roading!
I want to buy a good base vehicle to start with to get into it, and will be wanting to get the spanners out to modify it to improve it as time goes on.
I do not want to spend loads on the vehicle itself as i do not want to be worried about if the body gets a knock, just as long as the motor is ok and the chassis isn't full of rust and isn't going to be needed as an everyday motor so I was thinking of spending up to £1500/£2000.
I was thinking about a 3 door Discovery (as as far as I know they have a good reputation as an off roader), as it has a little more refinement than a defender (SWMBO will be getting involved to a certain extent, and she is used to a certain level of comfort) and will also need to take the kids sometimes, but would like some suggestions on other vehicles and what to look for when buying them.
Thanx in advance
----------------------------------------------
Aim low, expect nothing & dont be disappointed Read more
Thanx guys, lots to think about and consider here.
thanx
----------------------------------------------
Aim low, expect nothing & dont be disappointed
HJ,
Does the mean that threads wont be listed chronologically under Discussion or Technical in the future? If so it will mean a lot more searching around the different sub sections to find the latest thread and contrbutions to threads. I am a member of another forum that works in this way and it is so much harder to keep up with.
The great thing - rather one of the great things - about this forum as it stands is that you can open up the Discussion page and find that someone has posted on almost any motoring subject, perhaps a subject that you may not have ever thought you would feel the need to comment on however because of the way the OP and any replies are written or because of who the OP is or who has contributed you can get into an interesting debate.
This will not tend to happen if everything is categorised because people will generally only look under the headings that interest them, in effect you end up with ten or twenty mini forums rather than one big one.
Also with regard to Technical, the guys who as so helpful in this area such as Screwloose and Aprilia (and many others) can currently comment on any problem with any car however if they had to look through sections categorised by manufacturer and model they would never keep on top of it so some in need of advice, those with more obsucure vehicles, would slip through the net.
Please can you give us more detail as to how these changes will effect the dynamics of the forum?
Regards. Read more
Are we going nautical ?(TIC)
Now I have a new car I need to get rid of my old knackered Fiesta. As mention in another thread it has a long MOT but due to severe valve train wear it dosn't always start first time in the mornings (will change the oil to see if it cures it).
It has 10 months on the MOT and its a 95 N would I be pushing me luck to ask £250 for it and say £250 as engine needs work but drives fine? Read more
eBay.
My primastar lwb van has neary come to the end of its warranty and if possible I would like to catch any minor issues that may come to light after the warranty - as they are prone to do, before it expires.
What should I be looking out for on a 54 reg primastar with low miles?
Thanks
{vehicle details added to header - DD} Read more
I am with Simon on this - don't get the test done at any place that has a vested intererst in failing it! I had my car done in June at a Nationwide Auto Centre, now part of and co-located with Halfords depots. Then took it to a main dealer for a 36K/3 year service and some work resulting from the independent MOT.
I finally found that perfect Fiesta, full service history, fresh 12 months MOT, no smoke what so ever, brilliant starter, 62k backed up by all the past MOTs and service stamps.
It is a 1.3 Ghia model and everything is electric, the valve clearances have just been adjusted too so the engine sounds silent for a push rod unit.
There is not a scratch or dent on the body work, even the alloys look new.
Paid £850 for it and while was there their phone kept ringing for people come to have a look at it and a few people turned up from miles away. It was all so chaotic. The advert had only been in since 12 too.
i167.photobucket.com/albums/u141/amazingtrade/insi...g
i167.photobucket.com/albums/u141/amazingtrade/newc...g
{url links corrected, as using the html code "img" won't work on this site - DD}
It has a quick clear windscreen too which will be handy in winter.
Everything is electric including the drivers eat :). The pedals and steering feels lovely and the chassis seems to be amazing so far though not really driven it round the bends.
It has enough pulling power to go up hill without slowing down which is all I really need. Read more
Very very nice mate, I had a MK5 1.25 Ghia and have some very fond memories of it, what a cracking little car they are to drive, I honestly believe them to be the best small car of that vintage.
The interior on yours is simply stacks better than any equivalent Micra/Corsa/Clio, and the quickclear is the best thing since sliced bread, my new (to me) Mondeo has it and I'm actually looking forward to using it on the first frosty morning as I haven't had a quickclear car for about 2 years now.
Really pleased for ya.
Blue
Browse
>>
Currys and Dixons are offering 'Pay once and watch forever' (or a similar phrase) for £75 + P&P, which includes dish, card, remote, installation and setup. They are frequently sold out, but keep trying.
If I plug this offer once more, I shall be accused of working for them (I don't!)