August 2007
I've been living in Germany for the past 8 months and am returning to the UK at the end of the month
I have insurance from a German company for my car here, and transferred my no claims from when I sold my car in december.
The twist comes from the fact that I crashed a rented motorbike when I was back in the Uk on holiday in July.
It is the renting companies insurance that the claim will be on, so I'm just wondering if anyone can advise me on what I should tell insurance companies when re-instating my insurance in the UK for when I buy a car.
I haven't claimed on my policy or my wife's, and obviously want to remain above board, but am unsure what I should say and how it will affect my premium.
Cheers,
Neil. Read more
Does anyone know if it is possible to programme a new key without the red master key? I have one key with the red chip but thats it.
Or have I got to pay the £70 to have it done 'professionally'.
Cheers
Tweaked subject line to make problem a little clearer - PU Read more
The only options available to you are:
1) Find an automotive locksmith who can supply and cut a new key, and then "clone" the code off your existing key onto the new one. This means the van will "see" both keys as the same one. Google brings up loads.
2) Book it into a Ford dealer who can program a new key to the car using their diagnostic software. For the Mondeo, I was quoted £130 for this, including a new non-remote key. Hence I haven't bothered.
There is no means of doing this yourself without the master key, or two existing programmed keys on later systems.
Cheers
DP
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04 Grand Scenic 1.9 dCi Dynamique
00 Mondeo 1.8TD LX
I need to change the brake fluid on my car. Do I empty the system first and then fill and bleed, or should I just introduce fresh fluid into the reservoir and bleed each calliper/cylinder until new fluid comes out?
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It's a Mercedes A Class with ABS and ESP. I was a bit hesitant to drain it completely in case i got airlocks.
All the suggestions sound good - basically take out as much fluid from the reservoir as possible and the feed through fresh fluid.
Thanks a lot.
I've applied for my taxi licence in my local council and waiting to hear from them. In the mean time I'm looking at my options with regards to either buying my own car or driving one of the taxi firm's on 60/40 or 50/50 basis depends who I go with! It'll be a part-time job. I've been doing pizza deliveries for over 3 years as a part time driver so I know my way round. Would it be worth me selling my Volvo and buying a car that'll be less than 5 years old or just drive one of the taxi firm's cars? I would love to hear from you guys and in particular from any taxi or ex-taxi driver. Thanks Read more
Thanks for all your posts so far guys, I've started my taxi licence process and once I've it in my pocket I'll look at the car options.........I mean whether to buy my own or start off with a taxi firm's own car.
in a previous post I asked about vibration from the clutch, but now that I have had chance to take the newly aquired 166 TS for a long run of 200 miles I have come to the conclusion that what I thought was some low end vibration from the clutch or drive train is in-fact rough running. The exhaust is particularly throaty/bordering on excessively noisy (well in comparison with my old 164), especially under hard acceleration or when pulling up hill etc, it has a slight vibration right through the rev range but again worse under acceleration and worst of all it is only returning 25mpg at a steady 75 (Well according to the trip computer anyway). I intend to check out the exhaust etc in daylight, but it has had a complete new exhaust in the last 18 months, so unless it's at the manifold (or gasket) I don't think it's that...could it be a need for new plugs, a fueling issue or the Lamda sensors... apparently these also wear out regularly!
Comments, help or suggestions welcome...or have I bought a lemon already? Read more
exhaust isn't blowing as there is massive back pressure when you put a rag over the tailpipe, however the exhaust gas seems extremely hot...enough to scorch the rag after a few seconds, is this normal on a TS. Would an Examiner run show up things like Lambda sensor failure, timing out or exhaust problems?
My mate looked at my car tonight and said he didn't think there was anything wrong with the temp gauge going towards the red after 20 minutes of reving and idling and that I have invented a fault.
I am starting to think he may be right :(. Is it normal for it to go into the red even after such long idling and high revving?
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Rattle - I can empathise with your symptoms; Ego - I concur with your diagnosis of msbp; Screwloose - you are spot on with the treatment!
My Mondeo started heating up in slow traffic after it was 4 or 5 years old - and I became concerned. I could reproduce this by driving very slowly round the block and letting it idle (plus a few revs) - and then the fans would cut in. We changed the temperature senser - but still no cure. I stopped worrying about it 3 years ago after the situation had not worsened and there was no water loss etc. I reckon it was the water pump becoming less effective (wear on the blades?) and/or clogging of its arteries - the problems of old age. I now concentrate my worrying on my bad woman and my kippers.
If you want to sleep better at night, get breakdown cover on your insurance.
Hi, my second son has just acquired a P reg 1.2LS Corsa which, with 70k on the clock, doesn't look too bad at all. May I ask the Corsa owners, or anyone else who can help, a few questions?
1. I believe that around this time, the 1.2 Corsa changed from an 8 to a 16-valve engine. Is there an easy way of telling which one it is? I will probably need this info to get the appropriate Haynes manual.
2. The bumpers and other bits of black plastic trim have turned various shades of grey. What's the best method/product for re-blacking them. I'd rather not use a spray because this will involve lots of masking - unless it really is the only worthwhile product.
3. The leading edge of the bonnet is rusting - apparently a common problem on Corsas from this era. Access is, as opposed to wheel arches etc, easy and I wonder what Backroomers would suggest as a good product for arresting the rust prior to repainting?
Many thanks, Waino
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I am intrigued by DD's heat gun - how do you use that?
There was a previous mention of it from 'bell boy' on here, but I'm damned if I can find the post.
but it will bump start. It'll also start when the ignition is left on for 10 seconds before the starter motor is turned.
Any ideas what's most likely to be wrong?
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I read often, only post occasionally Read more
Hi All,
I recently bought a 1994 Pug 205 1.8 diesel Mardi Gras which only came with one key and no remote key fob. Unfortunately I managed to run the battery flat today and an immobiliser has kicked in and I cannot start the car (I did not know it even had an immobiliser!)
Is there anyway to easily bypass the system and get the car running again or will I have to go to the main dealer which I guess will be very expensive?
Cheers
mark Read more
And forgot to say if like the 306, there's a key to turn the alarm off via a key operated switch under the bonnet. Don't suppose you have that key - assuming there is such a switch.
Spotted this deal, don't know how long it lasts at this price. It's the Full Monty with guarantee. Now HPI is part of the RAC by the looks of it.
www.rac.co.uk/web/vehiclechecks/status_checks/
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Yes. Tell them everything.
I crashed my motorbike once a few years and asked a couple of insurance companies if they needed to know when I rang round for my renewal and was told that they did indeed need to know.
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Aim low, expect nothing & dont be disappointed