June 2007

Galad

According to our local rag, Vauxhall is offering a minimum £1,000 trade in on an old car for a new one similar to a successful scheme introduced by the Irish government some years ago to get scrappers off the road. Apparently, it's to pre-empt anticipated government regulations to force car manufacturers to produce cars that can be recycled, so to speak. However, Ive checked the Vauxhall website and there's no mention of it. Has anyone heard of this? Read more

nick

The cynic in me suggests that you'd get £1000 off a new Vauxhall simply by bargaining a little. Then put your scrapper on eBay.

pendulum

Hi

My Citroen ZX has been smoking like hell at start up, especially after not being started for a few hours. I can turn the key in the morning and literally a plume of white smoke will rise up and float over the house. Bit embarrassing in car parks too as it's the smokiest car I've ever seen TBH. I have accidentally engulfed people in smoke before who were standing 10 meters away. :(

During this start up and smoke, the engine runs a little lumpy, but after about 10 seconds it's perfect, and once it's running/warmed up, it's perfectly fine, no smoke, it just runs nice.

People have recommended new glow plugs etc, so I may well have a go at this soon, any other possibilities though for the cause of this smoke?

Slight edit to subject line PU Read more

autumnboy

My Citroen ZX has been smoking like hell at start up especially after not being
started for a few hours. I can turn the key in the morning and literally
a plume of white smoke will rise up and float over the house. >>
During this start up and smoke the engine runs a little lumpy but after about
10 seconds it's perfect and once it's running/warmed up it's perfectly fine no smoke it
just runs nice.
People have recommended new glow plugs etc so I may well have a go at
this soon any other possibilities though for the cause of this smoke?



I would certainly test the Glow plugs as I've suggested many times on this forum and I would almost certainly say you've a duff plug or two.

If my ZX does the same with smoke and lumpy for a few seconds and its always been a plug more so in the winter with the cold weather. But otherwise at 184k it starts with no smoke or lumpyness.

As far as air leaks in the fuel system, if you've a Lucas system then its unlikely an air leak will cause you any problems, but if its a Bosch system which is rare in a ZX, then you will suffer with air leaks causing you bad starting. Again I've covered this many times in the past.

Best do a search for these links and I would start with the plugs first.

Good Luck

mss1tw

www.buriedcar.com/

www.tulsachevys.com/Images/buriedcar/index.html

I won't spoil it...just click the links! Read more

Pugugly {P}

oh dear !

Question Diesel waxing
Ruperts Trooper

Do the fuel companies still alter diesel at the refinery, according to season, to avoid the waxing that used to plague HGVs? Read more

oilrag

There is a standard for all road derv. -7c for summer fuel and -15c for winter.

googolplex

OK, I know the obvious answer is a Diesel, but how many of us can afford to keep on buying new and ensure we get rid of the thing before the warranty expires, because that is the most cost effective, hassle-free way I can think of of driving a diesel as I do. (Read the plentiful posts on common fail diesels - as well as my bitter experience below - to see what I mean)

For the record, I have a Mondeo TDci estate (130bhp) which left the factory in Nov02. In two garage visits since March, I have spent over £2k on bills (injector no1 and failed turbo). It strikes me that a petrol - say a Volvo 2.4 - would offer similar power (ok, perhaps not the torque) and I'd have a better chance of maintaining it up to 8-10 years old. I just can't see a way of doing that, these days, with these common 'fail' diesels. Obviously, the down sides would be performance and a big hike in fuel bills. I'd also miss a diesel (having driven them for 15 years).

I'm well aware of the need to allow turbos to 'spool down' after journeys etc and have done this as much as possible - but it didn't save my turbo!
I tow a boat and need power (not to mention friction) for pulling the thing up a slipway - a 4x4 would work for this. My towing weight is about 1200kg, all in. But, I've managed for 3 years without a 4x4 so this is by no means compulsory - the vast majority of my driving is without trailer, and I do about 20K miles per annum. You could say that I need an engine to work hard for me.

I had previously considered something like a Nissan X-trail, but not that Diesel with those turbos (I'd clearly need two or three new turbos each year). Anyone any experience of the 2.5 petrol? ( I can't see the 2 litre petrol doing the job for me).

So, does anyone tow anything substantial with a petrol or a diesel car? Has anyone tried both? I basically need something that I can buy nearly new, and keep for longer than the warranty....

Just off to test drive a Kia Sorento Diesel...

Any advice gratefully received.

Splodgeface Read more

Greg R

I think older engines are more reliable because they had much more servicing ? oil changes more frequently, and other fluids more frequently. Also, the engines were much simpler.


The new diesel engines are much more complex, and probably need the same number of oil changes as their older counterparts. In addition to this, the garages possibly use the wrong oil ? which wouldn?t surprise me.

Another variable might be working the car harder. As they are becoming quieter, people probably work the engine harder ? especially when it isn?t their personal car!

With my dads cars ? over 20 years ? the only thing to go was a head gasket. These seem to blow because the fluid needs changing every 2 years ? again caused by not changing the fluid!

But HJ mentioned that with extended servicing, the car will not last longer than 100,000 miles without major problems, which explains everything really!

chrisxr2i

hi,
I've got a 91 J xr2i. I lost the one and only key for it about six months ago. days after losing them some thieving scum bags came along and robbed my car, they failed but left my car in a very sorry state:( Being the delinquents that they are, they 1st decided to try and bend my door back as far as possible leaving me with a very sorry looking door, but then thought "cant be bothered with this and smashed the window instead. Then they tried to break the steering lock but failed leaving me with a bent steering column, they then ripped off my immobiliser head and damaged that so now i have no keys, an after market immobiliser that's unusable as well.

I need help with the following items:

1. Door removal - I've heard its quite tricky (understatement!!!!) any useful tips please;)

2. Steering column - I've seen these on ebay cheap, how easy to fit, should i send to garage for this?

3. Getting round immobiliser - i follow the cable as far as I can then I just disappears behind the dash? where does this attach to? i think its probably the starter motor but cant see it anywhere under the bonnet? really need help with this to start engine so it doesn't seize.

4. Front arch removal - Spot welded I know, do I just drill these out?

I would appreciate as much help as anyone could give, i know a little bit about cars, but I'm no mechanic.

Swear words captured by filter deleted, spelling corrected. Sorry to be fussy ! - PU (mod)
Read more

bell boy

ive also got a filler cap replacement panel. do i just grind out where the new panel will fit and get someone to weld it in?
>>>>
>>>>>>>>.
>>>>>>>>basically yes,it would be neater if you slid the new panel behind the original wing, seem welded it, grind it back, then bring the level flush with filler.
But you need to know that they have a sponge between the inner and outer wings this soaks up water and causes the rot,therefore make sure inner panel is not corroded.
If i was keeping this car then i would put a complete rear wing on it,the only difficult part is sliding it in to the sill neatly,the only part where you would have to use filler would be on the c post so the job can easily be made very neat and it would last forever if undersealed
a new wing from sel imperial or beevers panels should be about £75 these days

drbe

In April/May 2005 Mercedes-Benz carried out a high speed test run at Laredo Texas.

The cars were 3 new (or just about to be released in Europe) 320CDI E Class saloons. Each car covered 100,000 miles at an average speed of around 140 mph.

I am trying to find some detailed information about the test, which was observed by the FIA. I have Googled, but the info. that I have found is press relese type stuff.

Does anyone know where I can find more detail please? I am interested in things like fuel consumption, problems, repairs etc. Read more

Armitage Shanks {p}

I just put in "Mercedes + Laredo" and Brain of Britain I ain't!

jumbostu

Hi

Just got a 2003 Fiesta 1.4 tdci and it holds its revs between changes up to 2000 rpm tho above this ie 3000 upover the revs hold and increase by a couple of hundred rpm even when I drive as accurately as poss taking off the accelerator before dipping the clutch.. Is this a problem or a characteristic - it seems to me that it could be an air intake issue?!?!? it also sounds a bit like its pinking on acceleration higher gear lower revs. Anyone else experienced these traits on their motor?? I beleive the Peugeot C3 has the same engine.... Getting a bit peeved looking and sounding like a learner driver!!!! (my other car is an 05 Audi S4 - proper drivers car) and I can drive that one allright!! :-)

Best wishes and

Thanks for your time

Stu

The other thread you started has been deleted to isolate answers to this one. I think I may have been a bit overzealous in changing the original one, however you explain the problem a lot better in this one :-) - PU Read more

jumbostu

Thanks all so far- def worth a try - will let you know

Stu

Forum EU imports
joenormal

Do you recall a certain TV programme, media {edit by DD} etc advocating EU imports in the mid 1990s. It was all the rage! Many of us thought, what a great idea and went and did it! Then it all went quiet!

Well I did it! I got a Toyota Mk IV Camry £4k cheaper from Eire, in August 1998 and it was a higher spec than UK. As the years of ownership passed, my Wakefield dealer was great, servicing and warranty claims by Toyota were honoured, and all was well.

However on coming to insure the car became more difficult each year, small print phrases like, personal import, non UK dealer purchase, EU import etc. were exempt. (One company insured it only to exempt it the following year). I was treated like those weird grey imports from Japan.

I therefore wrote to the tv channel concerned, and papers, complaining that we were duped by their publicity. I never got a reply!

Eventually I sold the car for a lot less than it was worth and my next car was full retail UK dealer, since I did not want the insurance hassle.

Has anyone had a similar experience, since those TV programs easily point the finger at UK dealers/manufacturers, but then ducked the issue later on when it went sour for us following their advice. Who are they accountable to?

I now write this because I am interested in the NEW Toyota Corolla, out in Europe, but not in the UK. Would love to get one, but will I get it insured at a competitive premium.

Thanks for taking the time to read this.

Dennis

A slight edit to the subject line to protect HJ's integrity !

{A further edit to remove any TV channel & programme names. Edits carried out are in italics - DD}


Read more

Dynamic Dave

Thread re-instated following various edits and amendments.

--
Dynamic Dave
BackRoom Moderator.

Morpheus


(Morpheus original headling 'Parkers price guides' didn't really sum up the essence of his post, which is why it has been changed. HJ)

Right guys and girls...

Girlfriend has decided she really wants a Citroen C3 Pluriel... i'm not too sure as I have heard the stories about leaking roofs....

Car is on Autotrader @ £6200 but in the pics you can see a sign for £6500.....

Just checked parkers and it gives a price for that age car of £5320 based on 20,000 for a 2004 (53) car.

Now give that its a 53 so will have been early 2004, its now over 3 years old, so shouldn't they be pricing it based on 30,000 not 20k?

If anyone has any advice on what to ask / look for on this specific car or in general then I would appreciate it.

I know nothing about cars (can change oil and fit bolt on parts like exhausts but thats about it) then I would assume people would recommend an AA/RAC inspection?

Cheers

M Read more

fordprefect

>> My eldest daughter bought one of these contraptions new in 1993: <<
She didnt buy a Pluriel 1993 - it wasnt sold until 2003!


Stunorthants, you are perfectly correct, I meant 2003 but must have had a senior moment when typing the date. :-)