May 2007

henry k

Watch this space?


"A new report from Boston-based Strategy Analytics says sales of new diesel cars could rival hybrids.
The report, "Diesel Challenges Hybrids in the US," concluded that new, low-sulfur diesel and cleaner-burning diesel engines could help carmakers sell light-duty diesel vehicles in all 50 states.
Diesel vehicles achieve fuel mileage superior to hybrids, and are popular in Europe where fuel is very expensive.
Five states led by California prevent the sale of diesel cars through strict emissions regulations.
But cleaner diesel and new engines from DaimlerChrysler and Honda that convert harmful emissions into harmless nitrogen could have diesels making inroads.
Strategy Analytics predicts that once the new diesel fuel has been approved in the five ultra-low emissions states, which account for 37 percent of hybrid sales, "diesel will challenge hybrid vehicles for the more cost-conscious 'green' consumers."

&
money.cnn.com/2007/05/01/autos/diesels/?postversio...2




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rjr

In reply to HJ:

The current GL420CDi does not meet the emission requirements to be sold in the US. However a concept version with the Bluetec emission control system was unveiled at the Detriot motor show in January.

www.worldcarfans.com/news.cfm/newsID/2070104.004/c...d

Vision concepts are usually shown in 'near production' form so it was probably shown to gauge opinion before a launch later this year or next year.

Hizzett

Hi

I have recently brought a Focus ST on a 02 plate. When the car is at high speed it will get quite shaky at the front end, I know this is possibly the wheels need balancing.
The main concern is that I feel it more in the accelerator pedal. Would this also be caused by unbalanced wheels or could it possibly be another problem?

Many thanks in advance
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milkyjoe

i hada similar prob with vibration at the steering wheel , i swapped the fronts to the back and the vibration was then felt toward middle /aft of the car, was the wheels i presume

daveyjp

After nearly 4 months ownership I thought I?d give an update for anyone who may be considering one of these or its French badged siblings.

We chose it because we needed a second car which was small, had four doors and aircon and was cheap to buy, insure and tax. We considered Fiestas, Corsas, Yaris etc but they have all put on weight and are now just a bit too large.

The car was bought through drivethedeal and the whole transaction went very smoothly, downside was the car was from Ipswich Toyota, which is 200 miles from us, so hardly local!

The only fault we found with the car was that the boot didn?t lock.

A quick visit to the local dealer and the receptionist diagnosed the problem in 5 minutes, parts were ordered and it was fixed two days later.

For the first 7 or 8 weeks the car was used predominantly by my wife for her local trips with the very occasional run out. 7 weeks ago I sold my car so we have been relying on the Aygo and I have been driving it a lot more.

When I first started driving it had done about 1500 miles, but it seemed very sluggish ? changing to second gear needed lots of revs in first or it would die. Being used to driving diesels I thought it was me not being used to petrol cars and changing gear too early, I started giving it a few more revs and we took it on some motorway runs and it is now much better.

Apart from the lock the car has been faultless and has coped well with the demands we put on it. Plenty of room for two and the baby seat in the back. The boot is small, but most of the time it?s only used for a buggy, but even with this in the boot there is room for 5 or 6 bags of shopping, so no complaints. The car also has a full sized spare under the boot floor ? well done Toyota.

When we need more luggage space we simply utilise the other back seat. On a trip to the Dales over Easter the boot took a full sized pram chassis, two deck chairs, rucksack, food bag, nappy changing bag and coats. The pram wheels went under the driver?s seat and the pram seat went on the back seat.

The car is frugal, I tend to wait for the warning then fill up with a set amount of fuel. 20 litres lasts 200 miles in urban traffic ? 45 mpg. I put 30 litres in last week and I have already done over 300 miles of mixed driving ? some high speed work and plenty of NSL roads. Insurance was £200 for my wife and myself and car tax has just been reduced to £35 a year. First service should be less than £100.

Third gear is very flexible and will take you from 20 to 80 mph, second is good for 50mph. It takes motorway journeys in its stride, but long distance high speed touring isn?t its natural environment. I prefer to cruise at 60-65mph which is quick enough to pass trucks, but leaves enough in reserve when required. It?s also quieter at this speed. Dropping to 4th on the motorway is very rarely required.

After these first few weeks we?ve noticed a few minor day to day living annoyances, but all must be put in to context that the car was just £7,200 brand new. This was for a four door ?+? model with optional aircon in flat red.

Interior light goes out as soon as you close the door and it only works off the driver?s door ? it?s a pain to find the ignition keyhole during winter.

No electric window switch for the passenger window from the drivers seat.

Rear wiper sweeps the wrong way for RHD vehicles so it?s pretty useless, but it?s needed as the short rear overhang means dirt is thrown up to the rear window. A larger wiper may help, but a sweep through 180 degrees would solve the problem.

The luggage area cover gets in the way of the boot area when it?s flipped up to load the boot. Removing it makes loading easier. 10 minutes with a Stanley knife could solve this!

To sum up I see it as a modern day equivalent of the original Mini or 2cv. No real thrills in driving it, but it does everything we wanted it to do for very little outlay.
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boxsterboy

4x4 drivers, you see!

406xsara

Replaced the battery on 2001 pug 406 a few days ago.
Battery was disconnected for a few minutes and now the multifunction display is blank.
Everything else is fine - no fuses in the 28 fuse, fuse box or in the engine bay fuse box appear to be blown.
The backlight is working but the display is blank?
Could the display be blown?
Someone mentioned fuses on the BSI unit. Anyone know where this is located?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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406xsara

Anyone got any ideas?
This is starting to bug me...
According to the Haynes wiring diagram, the radio stalk control etc. goes through the display and all of these work fine.
There is no changer just in dash cd - this is also fine.
I'm still hoping transistors in the display have blown and a second hand display might sort it.
Any help would be appreciated.

vwdriver

My university project group needs a rear brake cable for an mk3 golf. I would like some advise as to where to source one most cheaply. We could either buy new or used, we have already contacted a scrap yard who told us they didn't sell cables, I wonder whether this is the case with all scrap yards. Any help is much appreciated.

James Read more

bell boy

MOTOR FACTOR BRUV £15 SOVS

cabsmanuk

I have a 1995 306 turbo diesel (no air con) that needs the cambelt renewing and all the advice is that it is a bit of a fiddly job requiring engine mounts being removed etc. Ideally I would like to renew the water pump at the same time but that would probably make the job even more difficult so I am considering removing the engine and gearbox altogether, fitting a new belt, water pump and clutch whilst I'm at it. If this had been either my old Anglia/Cortina/A35, I wouldn't think twice about whipping out the engine and gearbox - as I did many times. Do any backroomers think this is a sensible idea?
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RichardW

I've done both jobs on a ZX TD - although I didn't change the water pump. For the 2 jobs alone I wouldn't be tempted to pull the lump out, however, if you wanted to keep it, then pulling it out and changing the belt + tensioners, water pump, heater hoses down the back of the engine, the water pump plastic inlet housing and the clutch cable, it might start to be worth looking at if you have got an engine crane and can have it off the road for a few days. The cambelt can be done in an afternoon, and the clutch in a day. No real problems on either - except the 11mm bolt down the back of the top cover; the 22mm v tight crank shaft bolt; needing a 35mm deep socket to undo the hub huts; and the pull clutch (haynes gives good description of how to get this back together).
--
RichardW

Is it illogical? It must be Citroen....

mrtee123

My 206 1.4LX has developed what I can only describe as an intermittent squeaking noise while driving. It seems to be coming from the drivers side and the front of the car. At first the noise is most notable when the car judders, for example using the wrong gear... now i can here reguarly when driving.... Anyone experience this or know what the problem is...

Thanks in advance Read more

brittaink

I have recently bought a citreon Xantia 1.9D. When I bought the car the central locking was not working. On inspection of the fuse box there was a fuse missing number 21. I placed a fuse in this slot and the central locking started working again but it makes a constant clicking sound from the fuse box with about 1 second intervals. After about 20 seconds I noticed that the headlights were flashing on and off at this rate. I fhte fuse is removed then this problem goes away.
Does anyone know what causes this and whether it can be fixed? Read more

bacon&eggs

Here are the instructions for programming the plip.

First you need to identify the reciever - its the little red dome betewwn the sunvisors. And the lock and unlock is the button nearest the key blade.

1. With all the doors and tailgate unlocked but closed we can begin.
2. Place the plain key into the ignition and turn to position 1 - the battery light will illuminate.
3. Place the plip infront of the reciever with the bulb facing the reciever up nice and close (like 2 cm's)
4.Press the lock button (nearest the key) for approx 1 second.
5. Turn ignition off and remove the key.
6. Wait for 1 minute without pressing any buttons on the plip or turning the ignition on.
7. Now press the lock button and the car should lock and if you press the second button then the deadlocks (do this when outside the car only, if it goes pearshaped your locked in the car and have to use window as exit!!!) will kick in and the hazzards will illuminate for a second. To disable deadlocks and unlock car just push the first button.

If it does not work first time dont worry it takes the pros a couple of goes to get it. Some recommend removing the reciever from its home in the roof as it then gets a better signal. Also remember to check that fuses are in place as someone has tampered with your alarm and removed fuses - when plip is working turn alarm siren back on (under bonnet, up behind LHM tank under a little circle flap).

Finally, with alarm & plip working lower drivers window fully, close door, lock & deadlock car (hazzards will illuminate) wait about 90 seconds and "wiggle" your finger infront of alarm sensor that is on the wing mirror bezels in the car - alarm should sound. All the best.

carled

So... thanks to your help last week I have managed to convince my wife (only after I got her & family to sit in one of each at a dealer!) that she needs a Focus and not a Fiesta (even the new 02 and later shape was a bit small)...

Now all I need to do is work out which one!

Budget is £3K + trade in worth approx £500-£600. She does a bit of motorway, but mainly school runs and local visiting runs, so economy needs to be good, but she wants to at least be able to think about overtaking when she needs to, hence the 1.4 is out.

I would happily consider a diesel, but it appears that only the Tddi diesel is in our price range and not the Tdci one. These 1.8 Tddi diesels seem to be slated quite a lot. Anyone got anything good to say about them?

Current feeling is that the 1.8 petrol may be a bit more expensive to run than the 1.6, so the 1.6 is attracting most of my interest at present... does that seem about right within the parameters I've given?

Cheers.
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The Purifier

I've driven Focuses with both the 1.6 and 1.8 - 1.6 is ok but wasn't at all impressed with the 1.8. It seemed to lack power and I thought it compared less favourably to the 1.4 engine I had in my Honda Civic at the time. Chassis was nice though, was a Zetec if I remember

ianwoolcock

Hi all,

I have a strange problem with a newly purchased Peugeot 306 1.8 XS 1999 sunroof version not with AC. I have been getting random air escaping and or whistling noises (the whistle can get loud) that sounds like it is coming from the steering column / dash area. My initial though was the heating system but the car is not overheating or loosing coolant and I have not been getting steam / condensation problems.

This one has me stumped. It seems to do it even when the car is quite cold. I was temped to put a radiator sealer in just to try it but don't know if that would have any effect.

Any help much appreciated.

Regards

Ian Read more

Number_Cruncher

It may be the servo, but probably isn't the diaphragm.

With the brakes off, the servo's internal valves allow vacuum to both sides of the diaphragm, so, there's no pressure drop across the diaphragm in this state, and the servo provides no force.

When you press the brake, first, the valve shuts, and the two sides of the diaphragm are isolated from each other. Then, as you push harder, air is admitted to one side of the servo through a foam filter which surrounds the pedal push-rod. Now, there is some pressure across the diaphragm, with the atmospheric pressure effectively "helping" you to push the pedal down.

This sounds like there is a problem with the servo valving - the valve which admits atmospheric pressure during a brake application may not be sealing shut properly.

The upshot is the same - you need a new servo. Be careful when fitting it to ensure that there is free travel, and neither the servo, nor the master cylinder are being held on.

Number_Cruncher