October 2006
97 2.0se model.
how do i cange the tie/track rod ends?
is it a fairly simple job or should i let the mechanic do it Read more
Hi,I don't know if anyone can help me out? The temperature gauge on my Rover 96 400 Turbo Diesel has suddenly started to go haywire,sometimes it doesn't work,sometimes it registers normal,it NEVER goes above where it should be so it isn't getting too hot.I have earthed the gauge out and it goes right up,I have put a bulb and wire on the sender on the thermostat housing and the bulb just glimmers.I was told that there may be a resistor or something that controls the gauge????? Does anyone have have any idea where the fault may lie,I don't like having a inaccurate temp gauge.Many Thanks Andrew...
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I do like my Diesels to be Turbocharged for that extra OOMPH!!!! Read more
Hi Andrew,
Thanks for your info about the Rover. Hope you have fixed the gauge.
Regards, Ian
As the thread title suggests, this is a cautionary tale.
I have just been consulted by a client who has been trying to sell his Jag XK8 in autotrader, with no joy. He was contacted by a local garage who held themselves out as specialising in selling luxury/high performance cars on behalf of sellers, for a commission.
He decided to go with them, left them the car (and V5) signed a contract and left them to get on with it.
To cut a long story short, he has just learned that the car was sold a month ago (notification from DVLA). The garage have been telling him that it is being test driven/independantly inspected etc.
Yesterday they gave him a cheque which he special cleared. It bounced.
Research has revealed that the director of the company which operates the garage has form for this, and the trading standards are all over him.
My client faces an uphill battle to get any opf his money back. Looked at with hindight, the victim cannot believe that he has been so trusting.
If any backroomers are approached by any outfit like this, be very careful indeed.
I could mention where that garage is, but suspect that this will offend the naming and shaming rules. Read more
I suppose the only consoloation is that in time, this guy will rip off the wrong guy and get a damn good hiding with a baseball bat.
I'm talking about basic signalling left and right. Turning and stopping suddenly to pull over without bothering to signal with indicators seems an increasing phenomenon on the roads today, at least where I live. Has anyone else experienced this ?
(I've had to add the word 'signalling' to the title so other backroomers know what the thread is about. This becomes more important later in a Forum search because if there is no key word in the title it can't be found. HJ)
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I absolutely agree, jase. The logical thing to say in terms of effort and cost, although I can't imagine it having much impact on the powers that be, would be that it would save money in the long run...
Yet another of those niggely little things that occasionally works/mostly doesn't on the old Mondy Mk2 - I guess it's at a comparable life stage to me! I reckon car years are like dog years i.e. seven car/dog years equals one man year.
The LHS front speaker cuts in and out - mostly out - and I suspect it could be due to a poor connection behind the door panel. I'm afraid that, as it's my old company car, I never got round to owning a Haynes manual for it - and it has now reached the stage where I wonder if it's worth it.
I had a go at taking off the inner door panel, but something seemed to be holding it towards the top. I'm relucting to give it too good a wrench as I'll probably ruin it. Has anyone got the method for removing the door panel to get at the speaker or, is it possible to prise off the speaker cover without removing the whole of the panel? Does 'dodgy speaker connection on Mondeo' ring a bell with anyone else? Cheers Read more
When i bought my mondeo in i think it was 99 (98 2.0 ghia) i took it back because the drivers front used to come in and out of working.Cant remember how he took it apart but i know when he took off the connector and reconnected it again it never gave me any more trouble. The door handle back light gave up the ghost after it had been put back together but a good slam of the door and away it worked again,Weird!!
Nice car but i sold it in the end because different parts of the suspension kept needing to be replaced.
Just to kick me in the teeth two days before my new car was due the battery blew up in morrisons carpark.That was scary i can tell you,acid everywhere.
this post deleted and replies moved to the original question - DD
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=45868 Read more
A colleague's company BMW is due for replacement in April, but he has to have decided and ordered by January. He is quite keen on getting a Mazda 6 but he has heard that this model is coming up for a facelift soon and is a little cautious.
He asked me, but I don't really pay much attention to news about new cars (I prefer to run older cars), so thought I'd ask you guys.
TIA
CItivanvin Read more
>>>>Mazda 6 but he has heard that this model is coming up for a facelift soon and is a little cautious.
It is not a face lift but a new car with new engines in 2008 - the face lift for the original 6 was in Autumn 2005
Came across this and thought I'd share..
silverstone.fortunecity.com/studebaker/677/ownacar...l
Interesting little personal page about car ownership in Sweden.
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That is still the case I beleave. Through some of my work I regularly get to meet Danish & Norwegian car enthusiasts. It is a great source of amusement to discuss car prices with them! One that I was chatting with recently said that he had paid £50,000 for a Mondeo ST estate a couple of years ago! What really iritates the Danes is us being able to go over there and purchase cars at their pre-tax price - which is low beacuse of the mega taxes they have to pay on top - but they are unable to go to Germany for instance and buy a car to take back home to use. They end up having to pay the full tax rate so it is'nt viable.
To own a Ferrari or other high end car over there really does set someone apart as being very rich, which lets face it is not always the case in Blighty.
Can anyone help settle a discussion at work? I mentioned my dad's old Simca that had a numberplate mounted filler cap, and a colleague mentioned that; when he used to be a petrol pump attendant, he once couldn't find the filler cap on a car. He's unsure if it was a Humber or a Hunter. I know there was some Rootes Group badge-engineering in the 70s where there was a Hunter-based Humber, does he mean this or an earlier one, or just the Hunter?
Anyone know? Read more
Surprised no one has mentioned the Hillman Imp. The tank was under the bonnet, engine in the rear. You had to lift the bonnet to fill the tank. Many a time during my student days I had strange looks at a petrol station.
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Roger
I read frequently, but only post when I have something useful to say.
Slightly complicated one this, a vehicle was manufactured in 2000 and was put into storage then was registered in France in 2003 though still unused. The reason it was registered was because of euro emmisions regs it would not have been able to be registered as new after Dec 2003. So now if it was imported into the UK and registered here would if have a 03 or 53 plate based in it's date of first registration in France and it's emmisions compliance at that time? Or would it have a Q plate, or perhaps it could not be registered here at all now because it does not comply with euro emmisions regs at the point of first registration here?
Any thoughts? Read more
Agree with replies above. As regards emissions and having recently researched this, I would say that if it is a European market vehicle with a valid EU Certificate of Conformity (see below) from the manufacturer then it is subject to the emissions regulations at the time of registration, i.e. 2003, in France. With the certificate, registration should be straightforward in the UK and no need for SVA. If you don't have the Type Approval certification, then I think you are going to be asked to go through SVA (although emissions will still remain those for 2003) as well as get an MoT. There is info on this on the DVLA website. It is actually easier if you are coming from outside the EU with a LHD vehicle and you can show it has been owned and in use by you for at least six months while living abroad even if it doesn't meet EU emissions.
Excerpt from DVLA site :
EC Whole Vehicle Type Approval (ECWVTA) - Passenger Cars Only
Most new cars sold in the European Union will conform to an "EC Whole Vehicle Type Approval". (ECWVTA has been available optionally since 1993. From January 1998, virtually all new mass-produced cars sold in the EU must conform to an ECWVTA).
ECWVTAs are recognised throughout the European Union but you must ensure that the vehicle is suitable for use on UK roads. Normally, this will not be a problem for right-hand drive vehicles intended for the UK market. To confirm compliance with an ECWVTA, you should obtain from the manufacturer or his agent a valid "Certificate of Conformity" (CoC) and present it when first licensing & registering the vehicle. (The manufacturer might charge if a duplicate Certificate is required). A CoC is only valid for the UK if the light and rear-view mirrors are designed for left-hand traffic and the speedometer is marked in m.p.h. as well as km/h.
If the certificate is not valid in these respects, you should be in a position to produce evidence that modifications for left hand traffic have been made and that the speedometer includes a miles-per-hour display e.g. a statement from a garage/mechanic or receipts for necessary replacement parts (see Section 2.6 for further guidance). When the modifications have been completed and you have obtained a statement or invoices to that effect from a garage/mechanic, you should send it together with the CoC to the Vehicle Certification Agency who will, if satisfied, issue a Mutual Recognition Certificate for which the charge will be £65 (as of August 2003). It is this Certificate that you will need to present to your local DVLA Local Office.`
Vehicles with a valid CoC can be imported by individuals and businesses without restriction; it is not necessary to demonstrate compliance with the personal import criteria as described in Section 2.4.
If your vehicle is more than 3 years old, it must also pass the normal "MoT" roadworthiness test before it can be licensed and registered. (At August 2003, this costs up to £40.75).
Let a mechanic do it. If you have to ask here for guidance, I'm pretty sure that you will not have the experience to tackle this work. Steering jobs are absolutely safety critical.
The tracking will have to be reset when the tie rod ends have been changed anyway, which requires special equipment.
659.