September 2006
I'm on the verge of having to replace my garden gate which is about to fall to bits. The current gate locks from the inside of the garden and I would ideally like to be able to open it from the non-garden side as well to bring out/put away the multitude of wheelie bins the local council has foisted upon me.
Does anyone know where I can get a weatherproof lock to use on the soon-to-be-manufactured (oh joy!) gate which allows locking/unlocking from both sides? I had in mind something like would be used on a shed door. A hole in the door to access a padlock would be a last resort if nothing else exists.
Thanks in advance,
CV Read more
It's a PC running Windows ME (so you can probably guess how old it is).
For the second time in the last six months I've lost sound. Last time I just downloaded some new drivers and that solved it. That doesn't seem to have worked this time - when I go into the sound properties there is no preferred device for playback, and nothing to choose from. I also can't change the volume - it's greyed out in the sound properties section. The sound schould be coming from an on board ac97
New development this week appears to be a problem with the graphics card - Nvidia GEforce2 MX I think - the display settings suddenly changed the resolution so that everything looked bigger. I've downloaded the ForceWare 80 software from the Nvidia website (doesn't appear to be any standalone drivers) and while this has resolved the resolution issue it's made text appear fuzzy and generally the display is much harder to read. Perhaps it would be a good idea to go back a few versions of this software as it seems that my graphics card wasn't supported in version 70?
Am I seeing the early stages of a motherboard failure - which I guess would mean total PC failure (and I'd better get backing up sharpish) or can anyone suggest ways of bringing these admittedly elderly components back to working order?
Thanks
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Soupytwist ! Read more
I used to think Norton was great.
A Norton Commando was brilliant, 850 interstate in black of course, but Norton for computers is/was like an interferring Mother-in-Law.
Rollocking awaited from mods or MIL tee hee.....MD.
I had to laugh - I recently read a quick test between a Toyota Avensis diesel and a Passat TDi.
Now while they concluded that overall, the Passat was marginally the better car, they stated that the interior plastics used in the Toyota were considerably better than those used in the Passat....
Oh how times have changed eh! If I was in the boardroom at VW, id fall outta my chair reading that!
Bit sad for VW really isnt it? That a jap taxi is now better quality than their middle-class exec! Read more
Machika, it?s never crossed my mind, so whilst I might not buy a DL3 over the Panny, I probably wouldn?t buy either; an R9 or M6, M8 would be another matter. My point would be that people who like Leica won?t think twice before buying the Leica, even the DL3, and as long as they purchase and ownership expectations are met then they?re perfectly entitled to buy whichever camera they want without having other people denigrate their choice or motivations.
Hello all and thanks for taking time to read over my problem. I drive a 1998 Peugeot 406 TD and recently a knocking sound has appeared. This sound is coming from the drivers side and over the weekend I found that the anti roll bar attached to the shock absorber had gone and changed it, thinking that this was the problem. The ball joint was worn and loose. But the knocking still remains.
This sound only happens intermittently, some mornings when starting from cold it is a quite loud knocking sound and other mornings nothing is heard. When I was changing the anti roll bar I also noticed that the top of the shock was a little oily (damp looking) so I will have to change it also as it is possibly going. What I was wondering would a shock that is going be responsible for a knocking sound? This sound is quite a dull knock, but can be very loud at times.
I will have to eliminate the shock absorber, but is seems more like a sound of an engine mount. This morning as I was coming to work I was jerking the car easily via the accelerator and it knocked every time I did this. When I stopped and turned of the engine and restarted, the knock was very loud. Then I drove a little more jerking the pedal again and there was no sound at all, then when I slowed down it did make a sound. This is what makes me believe more that it is an engine mount as the engine would move quite a bit when starting and stopping, but why does it not happen all the time? It's really frustrating to be honest.
On some bends you will here a slight knock or going over bumps, but again this doesn?t happen all the time. It is really hard to pin point exactly, I have had my father holding the shock absorber while I start up and when it does make the knocking sound he couldn?t really feel any vibration in the shock itself, which leads me to think it's more an engine mount or even something else.
I was just wondering if anyone else has had a similar problem with a knocking sound and if they could recommend anywhere else to look or check around the engine? The car has approx 89000 miles on the clock.
I have also when around all visible nuts on the engine mounts to see if any may have been loose, but they where all tight.
I could really use your advice on this one!
Cheers,
ZenZen
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In regards to being on the move Reggie, no this can happen when starting up in a stationary position.
Cheers,
ZenZen
Apologies if this is a daft question or has been answered before.
We have a 1.6 civic auto which has covered only 27k miles from new. We have just received an "invitation" from the dealer to have the timing chain replaced for £200, 2 weeks after an expensive service when it was not mentioned.
I am surprised as i thought if it really needed doing they would have offered to do this at the time of the service.
Is the received wisdom that this is a sensible precaution on an age not miles basis and they simply forgot to tell us before, or are dealers doing this to "cover their backs", and generate workshop activity during quiet periods?
Thanks for any advice or opinions!
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Thank you for all the advice.
will sit tight for the moment.
Hi Folks,
Need your help, I am keen to buy a year old Toyota Yaris, and I have found one around my price range, and it low miles and in really good condition. However the problem is the owner before must have smoked, and the car has a stale horrible smoke smell in it.
The garage had already valeted the car, and I have asked them to valet it again, which they have agreed to do, before I commit to buying it ( already have £100 deposit for them to hold it for me).
Will this car always have this smoke smell, will it fade over time ? Is there a quick fix I could do,
Thanks,
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>>Glass clippings do seem to help to get rid quicker
Really? Should that be glass chippings or grass clippings? Great typo for a laugh.
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Roger
I read frequently, but only post when I have something useful to say.
Hi,
I recently got two intentions to presecute for speeding. They were both for 38mph in a 30 zone and both from the same camera. Clearly I was unaware that this was a 30 zone - the road had a 40 limit for many years. However to be fair it is signed.
To get to the point, I have paid the fine and attended a speed awareness workshop. Literally the day after the workshop I get another letter for an offense at the same place (38mph again) dated 5 months previously (i.e 3 months prior to the other 2). This seems unreasonable - does anybody have a similar experience?
Spud B
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"It would be a ludicrous situation if a guilty driver could escape scot-free simply by refusing to state who was driving."
I don't agree, if the Police stop you, they can see who was driving and attempt to verify the given ID, a dumb machine which is installed to provide a mechanised way of making revenue cannot (yet). If they want to stop me for speeding, then they should pull me over and question me under caution at the time of the alleged offence and hear what I have to say. Not send me some trumped-up NIP two weeks afterwards with some vague description of a location and a statement that says they can't even tell me the alleged crime until I tell them who was driving two weeks ago in some vaguely decribed location due to data protection act.
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Edit: I may be a moderator, but I'm still an idiot and posted to the wrong thread!
car is a 1997 2.0SE hyundai coupe.
the central locking works when i put the key in doors.
the key fob works - light comes on when press buttons. put a new battery in just in case the old one didnt have enough power for car to pick up signal.
the car seems not to be picking up signal, even when standing next to it.
does anyone know how i can fix this. would a diagnostic machine be able to reset something to fix the problem.
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I wouldn't be surprised if Hyundai use a rotating code system, and the car & key are out of sync. A lot of cars are resettable by turning the ignition on and pressing the button. However, every manufacturer is different - a main-dealer might be able to point you in the right direction without charging (unless of course it's a problem with the key, in which case they're not cheap).
Woke up the other morning to find my girlfriend's car looking a bit out of shape (some very naughty person had reversed into the side and driven off leaving no details). Neighbours heard noises but didn't see anything. Don't particularly want to go through insurance, as she doesn't have a protected NCD.
So, we've been going to numerous bodyshops and asking for quotes. The dent is quite large, and only affects the drivers door. All bodyshops reckon it's a simple panel beating job, but it'll need a quick spray over because the paint has been split.
Quotes we've got have ranged from £140 (small back-street place which I've always noticed doing huge repairs to a decent standard), to £310 (insurance-approved big place, good reputation etc). Both would push the dent out and fill as necessary, paint the entire door and lacquer almost the whole side of the car.
Is £140 likely to buy a decent job (I'm in the North-East so things are cheaper up here remember!), or is it worth paying over double to go to a well-known place? Any advice welcome! Read more
Well, decided to go for the cheaper repair, picked it up yesterday and it looks fine - even the paint has been matched well. Shows that you don't always get what you pay for.
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If it is a retail company then it should be quite easy to have a chat with existing employees to see what they say about the company, check several stores or use the telephone for those out of area. Do this before the interview as this may help you raise other questions that show you have an interest in the company as a whole, rather than just receiving a salary.
As to Companies House, at present I would not really worry. This is a quite common situation and could be due to a query from a tax inspector, so finalised accounts cannot be lodged at present. You state it is a plc, so it has quite a number of legal requirements to meet - far more than a private company. For this reason it is more likely to remain in business, usually through taking tough and sometimes unpleasant decisions. They are more likely to close unprofitable shops at the drop of a hat and loose staff, but you state it is a growing company so this is less likely than a company that has lost direction.
Best of luck with your opportunity.
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Roger
I read frequently, but only post when I have something useful to say.