September 2006
It's a PC running Windows ME (so you can probably guess how old it is).
For the second time in the last six months I've lost sound. Last time I just downloaded some new drivers and that solved it. That doesn't seem to have worked this time - when I go into the sound properties there is no preferred device for playback, and nothing to choose from. I also can't change the volume - it's greyed out in the sound properties section. The sound schould be coming from an on board ac97
New development this week appears to be a problem with the graphics card - Nvidia GEforce2 MX I think - the display settings suddenly changed the resolution so that everything looked bigger. I've downloaded the ForceWare 80 software from the Nvidia website (doesn't appear to be any standalone drivers) and while this has resolved the resolution issue it's made text appear fuzzy and generally the display is much harder to read. Perhaps it would be a good idea to go back a few versions of this software as it seems that my graphics card wasn't supported in version 70?
Am I seeing the early stages of a motherboard failure - which I guess would mean total PC failure (and I'd better get backing up sharpish) or can anyone suggest ways of bringing these admittedly elderly components back to working order?
Thanks
--
Soupytwist ! Read more
Bought a new Sony CDX-GT200 MP3/CD head unit for my wife's Daewoo Matiz. Since the original unit is also a Sony (albeit a model from 1998), I foolishly thought it would simply be a case of sliding it out and slotting in the new one.
Why is it these things never go according to plan! It would appear that the original unit is actually bolted-in inside the dash and won't budge. I have no idea how to remove the dash and as such am not overly keen to attempt it.
Can anyone offer any advice on how to get it out?
Thanks in advance!
----
PhiL Read more
Many thanks for that psi, will no doubt come in handy in future.
Pleased to report though that I got the answer from a UK Daewoo forum I came across whilst Googling last night, the Daewoo Owners Club, and managed to fit the stereo today!
For anyone attempting to do this themselves, once you've unscrewed the five screws I mentioned you basically then need to prise off the plastic trim (it's only held on with plastic catches behind the panel which pop out if you prise it carefully round the edges). Once the panel has come away you then just need to disconnect the three switches (rear fog, hazard lights & security) then you've got full access to the stereo cage.
Many thanks to stek88 at the aforementioned forum for his fantastic help (would post a link but not sure I'm allowed).
----
PhiL
I had to laugh - I recently read a quick test between a Toyota Avensis diesel and a Passat TDi.
Now while they concluded that overall, the Passat was marginally the better car, they stated that the interior plastics used in the Toyota were considerably better than those used in the Passat....
Oh how times have changed eh! If I was in the boardroom at VW, id fall outta my chair reading that!
Bit sad for VW really isnt it? That a jap taxi is now better quality than their middle-class exec! Read more
Machika, it?s never crossed my mind, so whilst I might not buy a DL3 over the Panny, I probably wouldn?t buy either; an R9 or M6, M8 would be another matter. My point would be that people who like Leica won?t think twice before buying the Leica, even the DL3, and as long as they purchase and ownership expectations are met then they?re perfectly entitled to buy whichever camera they want without having other people denigrate their choice or motivations.
Hello all and thanks for taking time to read over my problem. I drive a 1998 Peugeot 406 TD and recently a knocking sound has appeared. This sound is coming from the drivers side and over the weekend I found that the anti roll bar attached to the shock absorber had gone and changed it, thinking that this was the problem. The ball joint was worn and loose. But the knocking still remains.
This sound only happens intermittently, some mornings when starting from cold it is a quite loud knocking sound and other mornings nothing is heard. When I was changing the anti roll bar I also noticed that the top of the shock was a little oily (damp looking) so I will have to change it also as it is possibly going. What I was wondering would a shock that is going be responsible for a knocking sound? This sound is quite a dull knock, but can be very loud at times.
I will have to eliminate the shock absorber, but is seems more like a sound of an engine mount. This morning as I was coming to work I was jerking the car easily via the accelerator and it knocked every time I did this. When I stopped and turned of the engine and restarted, the knock was very loud. Then I drove a little more jerking the pedal again and there was no sound at all, then when I slowed down it did make a sound. This is what makes me believe more that it is an engine mount as the engine would move quite a bit when starting and stopping, but why does it not happen all the time? It's really frustrating to be honest.
On some bends you will here a slight knock or going over bumps, but again this doesn?t happen all the time. It is really hard to pin point exactly, I have had my father holding the shock absorber while I start up and when it does make the knocking sound he couldn?t really feel any vibration in the shock itself, which leads me to think it's more an engine mount or even something else.
I was just wondering if anyone else has had a similar problem with a knocking sound and if they could recommend anywhere else to look or check around the engine? The car has approx 89000 miles on the clock.
I have also when around all visible nuts on the engine mounts to see if any may have been loose, but they where all tight.
I could really use your advice on this one!
Cheers,
ZenZen
Read more
In regards to being on the move Reggie, no this can happen when starting up in a stationary position.
Cheers,
ZenZen
Apologies if this is a daft question or has been answered before.
We have a 1.6 civic auto which has covered only 27k miles from new. We have just received an "invitation" from the dealer to have the timing chain replaced for £200, 2 weeks after an expensive service when it was not mentioned.
I am surprised as i thought if it really needed doing they would have offered to do this at the time of the service.
Is the received wisdom that this is a sensible precaution on an age not miles basis and they simply forgot to tell us before, or are dealers doing this to "cover their backs", and generate workshop activity during quiet periods?
Thanks for any advice or opinions!
Read more
Thank you for all the advice.
will sit tight for the moment.
Hi Folks,
Need your help, I am keen to buy a year old Toyota Yaris, and I have found one around my price range, and it low miles and in really good condition. However the problem is the owner before must have smoked, and the car has a stale horrible smoke smell in it.
The garage had already valeted the car, and I have asked them to valet it again, which they have agreed to do, before I commit to buying it ( already have £100 deposit for them to hold it for me).
Will this car always have this smoke smell, will it fade over time ? Is there a quick fix I could do,
Thanks,
Read more
>>Glass clippings do seem to help to get rid quicker
Really? Should that be glass chippings or grass clippings? Great typo for a laugh.
--
Roger
I read frequently, but only post when I have something useful to say.
Hi,
I recently got two intentions to presecute for speeding. They were both for 38mph in a 30 zone and both from the same camera. Clearly I was unaware that this was a 30 zone - the road had a 40 limit for many years. However to be fair it is signed.
To get to the point, I have paid the fine and attended a speed awareness workshop. Literally the day after the workshop I get another letter for an offense at the same place (38mph again) dated 5 months previously (i.e 3 months prior to the other 2). This seems unreasonable - does anybody have a similar experience?
Spud B
Read more
"It would be a ludicrous situation if a guilty driver could escape scot-free simply by refusing to state who was driving."
I don't agree, if the Police stop you, they can see who was driving and attempt to verify the given ID, a dumb machine which is installed to provide a mechanised way of making revenue cannot (yet). If they want to stop me for speeding, then they should pull me over and question me under caution at the time of the alleged offence and hear what I have to say. Not send me some trumped-up NIP two weeks afterwards with some vague description of a location and a statement that says they can't even tell me the alleged crime until I tell them who was driving two weeks ago in some vaguely decribed location due to data protection act.
***** This thread is now closed, please CLICK HERE to go to Volume 149 *****
In this thread you may ask any question for which you need help, advice, suggestions or whatever.
It does not need to be motoring related. In fact, in this thread it should not be.
No Questions About PC's. They now go in another Thread.
No politics
No Speeding, speed cameras, traffic calming
No arguments or slanging matches
Nothing which we think is not following the spirit of the thread
Nothing that risks the future of this site (please see the small print for details www.honestjohn.co.uk/credits/index.htm )
Any of the above will be deleted. If the thread becomes difficult to maintain it will simply be removed.
However, as has been said a couple of times, there is a wealth of knowledge in here, much of which is not motoring related, but most of which is useful.
This is Volume 148. Previous Volumes will not be deleted,
A list of previous volumes can be found here:-
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=18847
PLEASE NOTE:
When posting a NEW question, please "Reply to" the first message in this thread, i.e. this one. This keeps each question in it's own separate segment and stops each new question from getting mixed up in amongst existing questions. Also please remember to change the subject header.
Read more
Edit: I may be a moderator, but I'm still an idiot and posted to the wrong thread!
car is a 1997 2.0SE hyundai coupe.
the central locking works when i put the key in doors.
the key fob works - light comes on when press buttons. put a new battery in just in case the old one didnt have enough power for car to pick up signal.
the car seems not to be picking up signal, even when standing next to it.
does anyone know how i can fix this. would a diagnostic machine be able to reset something to fix the problem.
Read more
I wouldn't be surprised if Hyundai use a rotating code system, and the car & key are out of sync. A lot of cars are resettable by turning the ignition on and pressing the button. However, every manufacturer is different - a main-dealer might be able to point you in the right direction without charging (unless of course it's a problem with the key, in which case they're not cheap).
Cheddar's second road test of the week ;-) - after the Yamaha FZ1 Fazer 1000 that is !.
From reading various press reports, including HJ's, it seemed to me that the 177bhp 2.2 D4D T180 Toyota engine might be the next big thing in diesel motoring this side of a 335d so I was interested to compare the new Avensis T180 with other TDs I have driven and in particular with my own Mondeo TDCi 130 which has over 4 years and 100k + miles provided a fantastic blend of performance, economy and driving pleasure.
I reckon the piezo injected Toyota motor idles more noisily than the Mondeo when cold though when warm it is as quiet and is the only other four cylinder diesel I have come across that, like the TDCi, idles smoothly in a petrol like way rather than the urgent thrum that usually defines a diesel at idle. On the move it is a very refined engine with no sign of any diesely tinkling, pretty crisp and free revving though again no real gain over the TDCi. It soon became apparent that the journalists that have reported that the T180 lacks torque at very low revs are right, trickling along at 1500 rpm or so it feels responsive though when you put your foot down it only really gets urgent once it hits 2000 rpm, in contrast the Mondeo pulls strongly at 1500 rpm and is really on the move by about 17 -1800 and - it has to be said - the 2.2 TDCi 155 is simply stonking in comparison. The difference it seems is that the T180 produces it maximum (400nm) torque at over 2000 rpm where both TDCi motors hit their maximum at 1800 rpm with torque building strongly from below 1500 rpm. I would say that a 320d would also feel more torquey than the T180 below 2000 rpm however I should also say that this particular car had done 1500 miles so was not too tight though may loosen up with more miles. The T180 certainly pulls well between 2000 and 3000 rpm though when revved beyond 3500 where it makes it's maximum 177bhp it did not feel like it has 177bhp relative to the Mondeo's 130. In part that is probably because the TDCi 130s actually produce around 148bhp as standard according to the likes of Superchips so the difference is probably more like 25 to 30 bhp at most rather than the 45 to 50 bhp on paper, and the Avensis is also probably a little heavier.
I have not said much about the car itself because it was the engine that really interested me however the Avensis is very pleasant to drive with a nicely laid out dash, it does not steer as sharply as the Mondeo and feels a little dead around the straight ahead position though it holds the road very well, the ride is very good, better over sharp bumps and pot holes than the Mondeo, and it is nice and quiet at speed despite a bit of wind noise around the mirrors. Talking about 'at speed' the 6th gear ratio offers nearly 40mph / 1000 rpm, ludicrously high for UK roads, at anything less than 75 - 80mph you have very little response when you put your foot down making 5th, in my mind, much more practical for anything other than 100mph plus continental cruising, in fact if you slow down to 50mph, due to the high gearing and lack of torque below 2000 rpm, you really have to change down to 4th to quickly pick up speed again where my 5 speed Mondeo geared to 31mph / 1000 stomps away from less than 50 in top and still offers a relaxed 80mph cruise at about 2500 rpm.
All in all I reckon the Avensis D4D T180 is a very good engine in a good car, I didn't have any real preconceptions of the Avensis itself though the T180 engine on balance does not quite meet my expectations, that of being the next big thing in diesel, however I could certainly live with one and the wife has worked out that you can get a seven seater Corolla Verso T180 which I reckon will be on our list as and when we seriously get around to a new car.
Regards.
Read more
Are you on a commission from Ford, Cheddar?
No, I drive one and when I drive another car I naturally compare it principally withn the car drive most, likewise motorcycles, I am sure you would do the same. I believe my post it is fairly well balanced, I simply tell it as I find it, it is true to say the Mondeo stands up well against this newer competitor however I have praised the Avensis where praise is due particularly it's relative ride quality. Furthermore I have said that a Verso with the T180 engine is certainly on our shopping list.
Oh, and no Aprilia, I did not compare the quality of the electrcal connector on the respective CR systems all I can say is the the Delphi connectors on the Mondeo have stayed quite well, er, connected and the Denso ones on the Avensis were, while I was driving it were also apparently quite well connected.
Regards.
A Norton Commando was brilliant, 850 interstate in black of course, but Norton for computers is/was like an interferring Mother-in-Law.
Rollocking awaited from mods or MIL tee hee.....MD.