August 2006
A relative has asked me to assist with getting the best price for their 54 reg Honda Jazz Sport CVT-7. The car is the bright blue metallic colour, has 17k on the clock and is in mint condition with FSH, its the 2005 updated model.
I have heard these are highly sought after - is it worth trying to sell it to a Honda dealer? Where would be the best place to advertise for a private sale? I'm also unsure of value, I had thought around £9.5k but is that a little optimistic. Its not an easy one to price because most 54 plate cars are the old model, and there isn't a great many CVT's around. Read more
Help again.
Having decided that the Yaris would be a suitable replacement for my RAV (and thanks to all previous respones on my purchasing dilemma) I now find the car is too low to the ground to safely navigate my steep and weirdly shaped drive. I have a two-day test vehicle and have managed to get it stuck on drive this morning (drive is steep then flattens out rather quickly). Has anyone any suggestions for a car which would sit higher off the ground - again must be:
small
cute
reliable
economical
OR - any way to elevate the YARIS - would fitting larger tyres do the trick or would this compromise the ride, economy, speedo (have looked through some previous posts)?
Thanks in advance for all help. I just want to order the car and be done with it! My family really are no help as they have no intertest in cars and are about to commit murder if I don't decide soon!
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Yesterday morning the management light went out along with all the others when the ignition was turned on.
Started the engine and it came on. Stopped the engine and this time it stayed off to the end of my journey but later in the day on return did the same.
This morning the same again did the same although this time it stopped on until the end of the road so it looks as if I?m in for some trouble.
It runs perfectly normal with no limp home mode although it wasn?t on long enough to be sure.
The last time the light came on was eventually found to be the CAT had collapsed after main dealer had it for almost a week. And cost a packet.
Will have to take it down to the garage of course but in the meantime any ideas from our residential experts on what its most likely to be.
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Had the fault code read yesterday by my local independant.
It read "Glow Device General Error"
He siad it could mean that the Glow plug controller could perhaps be faulty but couldnt be certain.
He removed all error codes and suggested that I leave it for a couple of weeks and have it read again to see if the same fault came up. His thoughts were also that as it only came on when the car was started from stone cold it was something to do with a temperature sensor. This morning it once again came on for about 30 seconds.
After a journey it stood for several hours before starting up again and as usual it didnt light up the management light as it wasnt completely cold.
Any ideas on this ?.
wemyss.
A couple of days ago I took Mrs H's C3 for its second MoT. I go to a local independent where I can chat to the tester and look under the car. On examining the front discs, he exclaimed, "Someone's been at these with an angle grinder!". I confessed my crime and he asked if I had any vibration when braking from high speed. The answer was no. The braking efficiency on the brake meter was found to be good. Now I know that discs are not expensive but it was an interesting experiment occasioned by having the car in pieces on the Sunday before a Bank Holiday. When I asked the tester how he knew, I got a passable imitation of Ham in Toy Story 2, "I can tell."
If you are of a sensitive disposition, look away now. My method was to jack the car up, jam one wheel with a screwdriver in the disc ventilation slots, engage second gear and take off the inner and outer ridges with an angle grinder. No attmpt was made to polish or flatten the main contact area; it seemed in good enough nick. New pads went in, followed by some extensive testing before I let Mrs H loose on the car. I first got the idea from a poster on this very forum. Next time I will be a jolly sight cleaner if I put new discs on and bin the old ones; the amount of rusty filth penetrated nearly every orifice.
Hawkeye
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Stranger in a strange land Read more
Discs have a minimum thickness, so grinding not always applicable, 22mm as it happens on the Mondeo fronts, I recently measured them as 22.6mm with a micrometer so need doing soon. They were last changed at 65k and now on 109k, also the dealer highlighted them as an forthcoming job at the last service at 104k. The pads have a little life in them so as usual I have bought the parts in advance so I can do the job at my leisure. So for new discs and pads I got a nice discount from the Ford dealer, a benefit of being a good customer, under £90-00 all in, list price around £150.
As the Punto is approaching its 25000 mile service interval, I read that HJ says that:
"Internal and external filters together with the ATF of the Speedgear box MUST [HJ's emphasis] be changed at 24k miles."
In the manual it simply says to check the ATF levels (which I do monthly) at 24,000 miles; nowhere does it say to change it. In addition, the service sheet for the Fiat-approved dealership places a simple tick box for the mechanic to check that the levels are o.k. However, I actually agree with HJ's advice as this would seem the best option to remove any pieces of carp in the system.
If I ask the dealership to change the fluid, how would I know for sure that they had done so? Is it an easy job...? With oil I can see the difference; ATF seems to always remain that fresh red colour...
Suggestions are most welcome. Cheers
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Thanks, Greg. Appreciate the advice
AA
I can't find a search option on this forum, which is a bit sad.
Anyway, there's a good discussion going on at the moneysavingexpert forums about supermarket vs big name fuel. My personal belief is that big name fuel gives me slightly more mpg. Years ago I had a crappy 1.1 Escort which would pink at the slighest excuse as I attempted to wring every last one of its 60BHP out it. With that noticed that big name fuel seemed to make it run better.
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You've just contradicted yourself nortones2 - saying that cars are not set to a partilular octane, then saying that a given car requires a particular octane! If you were to buy that Audi in the US or Australia, it would run on 91-RON. Whilst 98 is the [b]optimal[/b] octane for that particular engine, it does not [b]require[/b] it at all. If the ECU is set up to cope with a particular octane, it'll work. All the "98-RON" figure tells you about the Audi is that any higher octane would make no difference, because it can't advance its timing to cope with faster-burning fuel than 98-RON.
brother inlaw arrived from st helens last night, as he pulled up , the auto fluid is spilling out , i live in bedfordsire,[hes borrowed my car to go to twickenham. ]. its a 2 litre k reg scorpio 50 thousand miler . ive read here of the fragility of these boxes , its seems to be leaking from the bell housing its a steady drip with engine running, . if he kept topping up do you think he could make it 160 miles, . does any body know the service time given to remove gearbox. by the way his breakdown cover takes the family home ,but the car only 20 miles. Read more
Running it til it dies possibly ?
I have recently heard of the pipeline card. www.pipelinecard.org.
The card has not been launched yet. The guy behind the card is trying to arrange a discount on fuel for private motorists.
Has anyone else heard of this card? What are your views? Read more
...and I'm with Vin. I signed up ages ago, on the basis that it would never happen without support. I've just had two or three emails from them, and I'm happy for them to bring good motoring-related offers to my attention. Makes a change from the more, erm, health-related offers I get!
i remember seeing a advert in one of the classic magazines for a company that sells various universal ball joint rubbers
anyone know who /where sells them Read more
If you really are stuck for replacement parts, and insist on replacing just the rubber boot, try a brake slave cylinder repair kit.
(With a bit of imagination) the dust seal fits fairly well on most ball joints, and with a dollop of grease, water and dirt are kept out.
The 2cv was designed to be
a) good for driving over fields and very rough tracks
b) cheap
Seems to me that today everyone wanting to drive over that kind of terrain wants a 4X4.
What inexpensive, 2wd car, available in the UK today would one buy for driving over very rough tracks? Read more
These bad jokes need to stop! First Oldy, now you!
I'm the only one who can make hideously bad jokes on this forum.
Browse
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Designed, particularly by an Architect = hell usually.
The guys that put it in, i.e. the slope etc. (may) have worked to approved drawings, but in the construction industry just don't presume anything.
vbr...................................................................
...MD