October 2005
Hi
Has anybody any tips on what to use to clean a plastic rear screen as fitted to convertibles. If it makes any difference it is a Ford StreetKA.
I have tried most non abrasives including Mr sheen but it still comes up dull and with smears of whatever cleaning product was used.
Any help gratefully received.
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I know this is very common on these cars but can some well tell me because the one i have just bought is very badly rusted on one side but the engine is superb drives great and the interior is immaculate can it be repaired to a good standard thanks Neal Read more
Yeah, the owners club can help you:
www.mr2oc.co.uk/
Always liked the look of these cars myself, which are nippy with 120bhp in a light body. Another notorious fault on these is the tendency for the car to pop out of 5th gear, but this was resolved on later models (>1988) IIRC.
have seen advertised sets of xenon bulbs. are these any good or do you need a full new headlamp unit?
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Im a student ive got time!!! Read more
All I can comment is I bought two Xenon appearance bulbs when they first appeared. One lasted a year, and the other went a week later. Yes they were slightly brighter, but not that much.
I do have one H4 bulb that is over 20 years old, and still indistiguishable from the 10 year old replacement on the other side. No contest in my book.
Hello All
I am a car salesman and have worked in this industry for roughly a year. I have met the good, the bad and the ugly since starting!
I have read numerous topics about the bad experiences people have had in here with car sales people.
I feel its unfair that we should all be categorised by the actions of the few and want to set the record straight!
Whilst I recognise that there are many cowboys in this industry, I feel many people have misplaced views on a lot of us.
I work for a large, prestige brand and regularly get treatment from customers that I feel isnt justified. They often come in with this misconception that I am going to rip them off,steal their car and give no customer care after purchased.
I pride myself on what I do and work a lot of hours (usually 55-60 hours) - 6 days a week, often coming in on my day off to be certain my customers are completely satisfied.
Many areas of selling cars needs to be looked at, however the main one is when you want to 'do the deal'.
When it comes to the negotiation part, there are MANY MANY topics and guides which state that a salesman ALWAYS knows how much margin is within a car and 'makes the deal'- often using the manager as a get out. Let me assure you this isnt always the case. Sometimes the salesman has to literally haggle with the manager to get the price you want...as the manager gives them no idea of margins in each vehicle.
Also, your part exchange price is not just something which is thought up and pulled out of the sky. Most decent dealers take the time to properly assess your car and look it up in professional guide books such as Glass's and CAP.
My priority is to sell you a car. I work on a salary heavily reliant on commision...and that is not always based on profit - usually on volume. If you have issues with the deal its in my interest as much as yours to gain the business.
So please...dont take it out on the sales people! believe it or not the Industry has changed dramatically and it is very cut-throat in many dealerships for the staff. Some of us do want your business! Read more
Hello All
I am a car salesman and have worked in this industry
for roughly a year. I have met the good, the bad
and the ugly since starting!
A year? You're just a babe-in-arms. I started in the 1970's (although that was alongside doing servicing and repairs as well). Plenty of time yet to learn all the dodgy tricks ;-)
I need to get to Windsor at 8.30am and would like to know the best route from Nottingham on a weekday morning. Trying to arrive at the M25 section before its too bad is an option but I'm also considering the M1/A43/M40 or M42/M40. Which do you think would be best and how long should I allow?
Thanks Read more
Since you're looking at something close to 3 hours to do this trip (well, definitely more than 2, I'd say) wouldn't you be better off staying the night in windsor the night before? I'm sure you could find a cheap b&b somewhere?
I think I might have a leaking heater matrix, but I want to know what you lot think first.
About a month ago, I had the Polo (see profile for specifics) in for a service, part of which was a coolant change. When I got back, and a few journeys later (no more than 100 miles) I checked the fluids over, and the coolant level was low. It was about .5 inch under the minimum, so without delay, I added some water and it took no more than 300ml to replenish the level to 'max'. I thought this was just because with having it changed, it would still be dispelling any air in the system.
All was well until Thursday. I drove the car to a mate?s house, and after an hour and a half, when I returned, all the windows were steamed up. When I say steamed up, they were really damp and took some demisting. Even the heated rear screen struggled to clear it on the 20 minute journey home. I thought this was because the weather was cold and damp on that day.
Used it again today and when I returned the passenger side of the windscreen was damp again, as well as some of the door window. It was in exactly the same circumstances (same mates house, same journey). What I find odd was the seemingly precise location of the dampness. The rest of the car was fine (but the side that steamed up was the lower side, with the driver side being parked on a path) Checking the coolant, it had dropped again (but nowhere near as much)
BUT.....thinking back to Wednesday, I took the folks to the cinema. The weather was very bad, lashing it down with rain, lots of standing water etc etc. On that day, all was well, its just after that when we've had trouble.
Me and my dad have had a look at the heater in the plenum chamber. It was all dry, all connections were secure and there was no evidence of water whatsoever. The carpets are also bone dry. Windows demisted quite well too once the fan was on. The system was pressured too, so any leak would have reduced this wouldn?t it? Incidentally, we cant see the matrix itself as the motor and other parts cover it. There is no mayo in the engine either, so HG seems ok.
My dad seems to think its just the appalling weather of Wednesday which had done it. Water will have been dragged in on shoes etc, and some water may have seeped in through the vents etc. We?ve decided to leave it ?as is? and monitor the whole situation for a bit longer. Only thing is, I don?t want to top up with just water anymore incase I dilute it too much. How much water would that take, to dilute coolant too far?
Sorry this is so long. Just want to give you all the facts
What do you think?
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Thanks Xileno
Well, I'm quite reluctant to put any more plain water in, so i'm going to the garage tomorrow to get some antifreeze. I was looking around today for some antifreeze after uni, but Halfords wanted silly prices for those with VW specs on it, and their 'cheap' stuff wasn't....cheap. Wilkinson?s had some Carplan antifreeze, but it didn't have any recommendations on, and I wasn't sure if it would be fully compatible with what was already in.
No, the cam-belt wasn't changed, although I enquired about pump replacement, and they said they'd never seen one fail yet and replacement wouldn't be necessary. Likewise, no de-scaling products were used. But, I've had one of the hoses off before, and there was absolutely no scale or sediment whatsoever.
After I drove it home from the second big 'steam up' I had at my mates, everything was ok! I just don?t get it. I'll top up and check again in another 100 miles or so. If it doesn't steam up any more, then I?ll assume it was just trapped rainwater in the vents, and that the coolant 'loss' was due to air in the system being displaced with water from the expansion tank.
Thanks again, and any more views much appreciated
Hi Folks,
Heading home last night, was doing a 90 mile journey at between 45 and 80mph (the lower end being fog induced), at about 4 miles from my exit from the M1, 5 miles from home, the car started to feel "lumpy", I was moving at aroung 60 when this happened, and the engine would continue to hold me at that speed, but not comfortably.
30 seconds or so after this became noticable, the yellow engine light (which, according to the handbook has a symbol in it, but mine doesn't, is just a yellow outline, but sure the same thing) which handbook says is " [Engine Auto-Diagnostic], might be a problem with your injectors, ignition system or emmisions control system - get it sorted our you'll mess up the cat" (or words to that effect).
Pulled over onto the hard shoulder, got out, but it was pitch black, nothing to see, engine sounded "not right" (again, lumpy is best i can come up with).
Waverd on switching off and calling the breakdown folks, but as it was still running, decided to push on up the hard shoulder to the exit, home and sleep.
Upon pulling up on the driveway, i had a look under the light of next doors security device, exhaust looked smokey, but hard to say for sure, but smelt awful (hard to describe, slightly acidic? possibly oily?), as, it turns out, so does the inside of the car now (and, i am assured by the misses, upon climbing into bed, did I!).
This morning, popped the bonnet, nothing of any interest to see. (at least to my untrained eye). It's sunday so it'll have to wait to be seen by a garage tomorrow (annoying getting a shoulder op on Tuesday, so garage will have to keep it for a while / deliver it home to me @ some point! but, on the plus side, i wont be in a state to drive for a month or so anyway...)
I haven't restarted it, though i intend to drive it round to the garage (2 miles ish away) tomorrow morning.
Meanwhile, i've now been directed to tesco.com to do the shopping online as i cant drive the misses to the supermarket, and she's gone off in a huff to do gardening!
Any suggestions as to what may be the cause of the problem? anything I can do to investigate? Likely cost of correction?
Many thanks!
Gavin. Read more
Hi Folks,
Well, thought I ought to close this thread up, for future reference for anyone with a similar problem.
After jacking it into their diagnostic kit, the main dealer stuck a new coil-pack & spark plugs on the 406, which didn't solve the problem.
After this, they decided it was injector failure, took one off another car, which solved the problem, so they ordered and fitted a new one, I got the car back after a month (i had an op on my shoulder so couldnt drive) and it drove exactly as before for a month, until last night, when a new (more serious?) problem has occured. I'll post another thread about this one.
Cheers,
Gav.
There's something about this which is making it really difficult for me to be cynical.
I don't think it's anything to do with someone buying an old Fiesta and driving their Porsche on the third party extension. After all, there are limitations of use aren't there?
I mean - look at it this way. My Dad would have to insure himself on his car then name Mum on his car. Mum would have to insure herself on her car, then name Dad. Then of course I will have to insure myself on mine, name Dad and Mum (not forgetting where my sister comes into it all).
It's rare - in fact, since Mum got her car it's only happened once, that one parent will drive the other's car yet the insurance company are getting more money for the policy just on the offchance that one parent would need to drive the other car.
I'm willing to bet that thousands upon thousands of people are going to either not bother, or be so confused they'll be driving around unknowingly uninsured.
After all, what the hell do the insurance companies care about safety? They're losing out on money from people using the DOC clause to drive other cars aren't they?
Thoughts please.
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This will of course depend on your parents insurance history. Mine is cheaper with one parent who has not claimed but more expensive with the one who has claimed. But generally a more experienced driver on the insurance should help. I only drive my dads car now that i am old enough to be covered on his company car insurance and if i ever need to drive mums is a lot easier and cheaper to add me for a week here and there.
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Im a student ive got time!!!
Now you see I can't access tinyurl stuff at work due to the draconian nature of the firewall so I was unaware that was a repeat. Mea culpa.
I want to buy a Nissan X-trail, has anybody had anydealings with the import companies HONDASUK or NISSANDIRECT. If so, what are the pitfalls dealing with companies such as these.
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PS
Both are mentioned on leading car sales magazines' websites including Auto Trader.
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What\'s for you won\'t pass you by


Thanks for the tips.
Will pass this on and feedback any progress.